" 


A      A 

A     x- 


•- 


A 


A      £'v    & 

'      &':• 


A 


'        • 


3&'&       ^  ^  1L  v    -JiL'       >    •    A 

A       &•      ^       5^       ^*       Jl       5^ 

'JL'      :'2t*    '  -iaSt'       -ijS*1  v    '3L/  ' 

Tv^  — *••'  v^-'fc    ^*^  -r*.'-^T^  ^   T"^  -      v^  -' 

^^   A''  A  ^A^A^A"     3fe---3! 


^$r  x     .A,  '    A       r^ 

V  '       ' 


A- 


A 


*  i 


Ornamental  Gardening 


FOR 


AMERICANS. 


A    TREATISE    ON 


BEAUTIFYING   HOMES,   EUKAL   DISTEICTS, 
TOWNS,  AND    OEMETEEIES, 


BY 

ELIAS    A.    LONG, 

LANDSCAPE  ARCHITECT  ;  AUTHOR  OF  "  THE  HOME  FLORIST. 


ILLUSTRATED. 


NEW  YORK: 

ORANGE  JUDD   COMPANY, 

62  &  54  LAFAYETTE  PLACE. 
1893. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1884,  by  the 

ORANGE   JUDD    COMPANY, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


xs 


PREFACE 


This  book  was  written  with  a  view  of  furnishing  a  low- 
priced,  comprehensive  American  work  on  Landscape,  or 
more  properly,  Ornamental  Gardening.  A  great  degree 
of  conciseness  was  aimed  at,  with  the  desire  to  bring  a 
large  amount  of  information  on  all  departments  of  the 
subject  into  a  small  compass.  And  now  the  completed 
work  goes  forth  in  the  hope  that  it  will  more  fully  meet 
the  want  for  information  of  this  kind  than  any  work  ever 
issued  in  this  country,  at  even  several  times  its  price. 

I  acknowledge  with  great  pleasure  the  help  found — 
especially  in  preparing  the  lists  and  descriptions  of  trees, 
shrubs  and  plants,  in  the  works  of  J.  C.  Loudon,  W. 
Robinson,  Josiah  Hoopes,  Frank  J.  Scott,  and  a  few 
others,  whose  names  appear  in  their  proper  places  in  the 
body  of  the  book.  Mention  must  also  be  made  of  the 
kindness  of  Messrs.  Ellwanger  &  Barry,  of  Rochester, 
-  N".  Y.,  in  at  all  times  throwing  open,  their  nursery  and 
specimen  grounds,  to  my  inspection,  as  an  aid  in  pre- 
paring the  descriptions  in  this  department. 

To  Dr.  George  Thurber,  editor  of  the  American  Agri- 
culturist, I  am  specially  indebted  for  valuable  aid  and 
(m) 


IV  PREFACE. 

suggestions  received,  and  for  his  interest  in  the  work 
from  the  first.  I  am  also  indebted  to  the  kindness  of  the 
Publishers  of  the  last  named  periodical  for  the  use  of 
engravings,  that  appear  in  the  descriptions  of  trees  and 
plants. 

If  my  book  shall  be  of  service  in  increasing  a  love  for 
Ornamental  Gardening  and  kindred  delights  throughout 
America  ;  leading  those  who  consult  its  pages  in  the  way 
of  genuine  pleasure,  healthfulness,  and  profit  in  these, 
my  highest  ambition  shall  have  been  satisfied. 

ELIAS  A.  LONG. 
BUFFALO,  N.  Y.,  November,  1884. 


CONTENTS. 


PART   I.— INTRODUCTORY. 

CHAPTER  I. 
INTBODUCTION. 9 

Glances  at  the  Past,  Present,  and  Future.— The  Require- 
ments of  American  Ornamental  Gardening. — Ornamental 
Gardening  Literature.  —  American  Progress  in  Special 
Branches. — American  Architecture  and  Gardening. — Orna- 
mental Gardening  for  Americans. 

CHAPTER  II. 
Profits  of  Ornamental  Gardening 16 

CHAPTER  III. 
Time  required  to  produce  Good  Effects 20 

PART  II.— MATERIALS  OF  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

CHAPTER  IV. 
The  Ground  and  the  Grass 28 

CHAPTER  V. 
Woody  growths 25 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Deciduous  Trees  and  Shrubs Z7 

CHAPTER  VII. 
Evergreen  Trees  and  Shrubs 99 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
Climbers  and  Trailers 118 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Hardy  Herbaceous  Plants 124 

CHAPTER  X. 

Annual  Plants 156 

(V) 


VI  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XI. 


Tender  Plants    

CHAPTER  XIL 

Miscellaneous  Natural  Materials — 


PART  III.— ARRANGEMENT  OF  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENS. 

CHAPTER  Xm. 
Principles  and  Aims 161 

Nature  as  a  Teacber. — Major  and  Minor  Features  of  Embel- 
lishment.—Variety. —Order  and  Simplicity.— Unity  and 
Harmony.  —  Character.  —  Expression.  —  Convenience. — 
Breadth  and  Extent.— Richness  and  Finish. 

CHAPTER  XIV. 
The  Home  Buildings 166 

CHAPTER  XV. 
The  Surface  of  the  Garden 167 

CHAPTER  XVI. 
Walks  and  Drives 177 

CHAPTER  XVII. 
Use  and  Combination  of  Grass,  Trees,  Shrubs,  etc 183 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 
Climbers  and  their  uses 199 

CHAPTER  XIX. 
Flowering  and  Ornamental  Plants 206 

CHAPTER  XX. 
Rockwork 221 

CHAPTER  XXI 
Water  Features  in  the  Garden 227 

CHAPTER  XXH. 
Hedges  and  Clipped  Trees 231 

CHAPTER  XXHL 
Garden  Structures 236 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 
Plans  of  Private  Residence  Grounds . .  247 


CONTENTS.  VII 

CHAPTER  XXV. 
Portico,  Window  and  Roof  Gardening 265 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 
School,  Church,  Asylum,  Hotel,  and  Railroad  Gardening 273 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 
Public  Parks  and  Pleasure  Grounds 279 

Future  and  Present  Wants  to  be  Considered.— An  Ideal  Sys- 
tem of  Public  Lawn  Gardening.— " Beautiful  Paris"  as  a 
Model.— Paris,  Past,  Present,  and  Future.— The  Lesson  for 
American  Enterprise.— The  Large  Park  System.— Garden 
Boulevards.— A  glance  at  Central  Park,  N.  Y.— Small  Town 
Parks.— Town  Squares.— Planting  Public  Highways.— Rural 
Improvement  Associations. 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 
Garden  Cemeteries 301 

PAET  IV.— CONSTRUCTING  GARDENS. 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 
Planning  Garden  Improvements 308 

CHAPTER  XXX. 
Laying  out  the  Grounds 310 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 
The  Work  on  the  Grounds 312 

CHAPTER  XXXII. 
Planting 320 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 
Lawn  Making 324 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 
Walks  and  Drives 327 

CHAPTER   XXXV. 
Preparation  for  Special  Purposes 331 

CHAPTER  XXXVI. 
Garden  Architecture ...  386 


VIII  CONTENTS. 

PART  V.— MAINTAINING  GARDENS. 

CHAPTER    XXXV1L 
January 337 

CHAPTER    XXXVHI. 
February 339 

CHAPTER   XXXIX. 
March 346 

CHAPTER  XL. 
April 349 

CHAPTER  XLI. 
May 353 

CHAPTER  XL1I. 
June 357 

CHAPTER    XLIII. 
July,  August. 361 

CHAPTER   XLIV. 
September 364 

CHAPTER   XLV. 
October 365 

CHAPTER   XLVI. 
November,  December 368 


Ornamental  Gardening  for  Americans, 


PART  I. 
INTRODUCTORY. 

CHAPTER  I. 
INTRODUCTION. 

GLANCES  AT  THE   PAST,    PRESENT,    AND  FUTURE. 

The  art  of  Ornamental  Gardening  is,  undoubtedly, 
backward  in  America  at  the  present  time.  Progress  is 
more  apparent  in  some  other  arts ;  for  example,  those  of 
architecture  and  interior  decoration.  There  is  nothing 
strange  in  this,  however;  our  nation  is  comparatively 
young,  and  whatever  is  closely  related  to  the  useful 
arts,  has  had  opportunities  to  develop,  which  ornamental 
gardening,  painting,  and  other  arts  have  not  enjoyed. 
House  building  has  received  great  attention  from  the 
first,  and  it  is  natural  that,  as  prosperity  increases,  a  love 
for  the  beautiful  should  manifest  itself  in  this  sooner 
than  in  the  more  independent  fine  arts.  Neither  is  it 
strange  that  gardening,  and  other  arts  of  this  class,  in 
America  should  contrast  unfavorably  with  the  same  in 
some  European  countries,  for  long  before  the  birth  of  our 
nation  these  arts  have  had  abroad  a  comparatively  ^ree 
field  in  which  to  advance. 
(9) 


10  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

If  our  backwardness  in  the  fine  arts  is  thus  accounted 
for,  the  grounds  upon  which  to  base  predictions  of  future 
progress,  are  no  less  clearly  defined  ;  while  in  the  pioneer 
century  there  was  naturally  a  lack  of  means,  to-day, 
wealth,  rapidly  developing  taste,  and  in  fact,  everything 
needed  for  fostering  the  fine  arts,  abound  with  us.  Noth- 
ing shows  our  real  progress  more  strikingly  than  our 
decennial  census  returns.  Ninety  years  ago  there  were 
less  than  four  millions  of  people  in  the  entire  United 
States.  Sixty  years  ago  there  were  not  yet  ten  millions  ; 
at  thirty  years  ago  we  had  reached  nearly  twenty-three, 
and  1880  showed  a  population  of  about  fifty  millions. 
Wonderful  as  are  these  figures,  our  general  prosperity 
has  more  than  kept  pace  with  them.  To-day  the  large 
percentage  of  people  owning  homes  ;  the  thousands  of 
savings  banks  to  care  for  the  surplus  money  of  the  masses  ; 
the  multitude  of  possessors  of  moderate  and  of  great 
wealth,  all  tell  of  a  degree  of  prosperity  unparalleled  in  any 
other  country.  This  state  of  things  is  destined  to  have  a 
marked  effect  upon  the  future  of  the  fine  arts  in  America. 
Great  Britain,  France,  and  other  European  nations, 
may  surpass  us  in  conservatories,  gardens  and  parks  to- 
day, but  the  time  will  come  when  we  must  excel  in  all  of 
these,  as  we  do  in  most  of  the  useful  arts  and  inventions. 

THE   REQUIREMENTS   OF    AMERICAN    ORNAMENTAL    GAR- 
DENING. 

What  is  needed  more  than  all  else,  is  popular  education 
with  respect  to  the  beauty,  adaptability,  and  arrange- 
ments of  the  subjects  of  the  vegetable  kingdom  for 
creating  delightful  garden  and  providing  fine  landscape 
effects.  This  is  a  matter  in  which  the  average  American 
is  far  behind  the  Englishman,  or  the  people  of  some 
other  European  countries.  We  are  far  from  being  a 
nation  of  garden  lovers,  or  of  people  who  take  great 


INTRODUCTION.  11 

delight  in  beautiful,  well  arranged,  home-gardens,  and 
in  caring  for  them. 

It  should  be  better  known,  that  there  are  fully  one 
thousand  different  species  and  varieties  of  ornamental 
trees  and  shrubs,  besides  great  numbers  of  hardy  flower- 
ing plants,  all  possessing  distinct  features  of  beauty,  that 
will  thrive  in  the  greater  part  of  the  United  States.  One 
who  walks  among  our  home  gardens  and  grounds,  and 
sees  the  same  plants  in  each,  might  suppose  that  only  a 
few  scores  of  these  were  known.  The  same  kinds,  such  as 
have  always  been  planted,  are  repeated  everywhere.  The 
same  fault  is  also  conspicuous  in  many  cemeteries  and 
public  parks.  It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  a  degree  of 
poverty  generally  prevails  in  our  ornamentation  of  home 
grounds,  that  would  not  be  tolerated  in  the  interior  fur- 
nishings, or  in  the  appearance  of  the  house  itself.  There 
are  as  good  reasons  for  adhering  to  the  fashions  in  houses 
of  fifty  years  ago  as  to  the  selection  and  arrangement  of 
trees  that  prevailed  at  that  time.  The  reason  why  a  knowl- 
edge of  materials,  their  kinds,  arrangement  and  needed 
care  are  essential  to  success  in  ornamental  gardening,  is  be- 
cause fine  results  depend  largely  upon  continued  attention 
to  keeping  up  the  garden.  When  the  architect  has  planned 
and  finished  the  house,  the  interest  in  architecture,  so 
far  as  that  house  is  concerned,  is  at  an  end.  But  when  a 
garden  is  planned  and  planted  it  remains  a  perpetual 
charge.  If  it  is  slighted  or  neglected,  the  original  work 
of  construction  is  well  nigh  lost.  It  is  an  intimate  ac- 
quaintance with  trees  and  plants,  first  in  doing  or  in  di- 
recting garden  work,  and  later  the  watching  their  growth 
and  development,  that  give  to  the  occupation  its  great- 
est charm. 

THE   LITERATURE   OF   ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

A  comparison  of  our  garden  literature  with  that  of 
England,  for  example,  indicates  a  general  lack  of  interest 


12  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

in  the  subject.  We  support  but  one  periodical — a 
monthly,  devoted  to  general  ornamental  and  useful  gar- 
dening. In  London  alone,  there  are  published  no  less 
than  five  periodicals  devoted  to  the  subject,  and  these 
are  weeklies,  of  large  size.  I  make  no  mention  of  agricul- 
tural and  other  papers  with  good  gardening  departments, 
nor  of  the  monthlies  and  "guides"  that  are  issued  by 
seedsmen  and  florists,  for  advertising  purposes,  as  these 
are  found  on  both  sides  of -the  Atlantic.  The  interest  in 
the  subject  in  England  is  also  indicated  by  the  numerous 
books  treating  on  gardening. 

Such  facts  show  that  the  English  possess  a  much 
greater  love  for,  and  knowledge  of,  everything  pertaining 
to  gardening  than  do  Americans.  They  also  explain 
why  many  of  our  own  native  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers 
are  better  known  and  appreciated  abroad  than  at  home. 
These  native  trees,  etc.,  are  often  introduced  into  cultiva- 
tion abroad  and  are  sometimes  brought  back  into  our 
own  gardens  through  the  enterprise  of  foreign  nursery- 
men and  gardeners. 

AMERICAN   PROGRESS  IN  SPECIAL  BRANCHES. 

To  conclude  that  Americans  are  unable  to  appreciate 
beauty  in  the  products  of  the  gardener's  art,  would  be  a 
mistake.  If  we  suffer  by  comparison  with  Europe,  as  re- 
gards general  ornamental  gardening,  we  may  turn  to  the 
progress  we  have  made  in  some  special  branches  of  the  art, 
and  from  this  take  hope  for  the  future.  In  the  produc- 
tion and  consumption  of  cut  flowers,  we  see  something 
like  American  spirit  and  enterprise.  Millions  of  dollars 
are  invested  in  the  growing  of  flowers  and  plants,  to 
meet  a  popular  taste  that  hardly  seemed  to  exist  some 
fifteen  years  ago.  From  a  small  beginning  this  trade  has 
developed  year  by  year,  until  now  we  actually  have 
reached  a  standing  as  producers  and  consumers  of  flowers, 
that  is  looked  upon  as  another  "American  Wonder." 


INTRODUCTION.  13 

And  why  not,  for  there  is  nothing  in  all  Europe  to  equal 
the  American  cut-flower  trade.  In  London,  for  exam- 
ple, this  trade  is  but  a  fraction,  as  compared  with  that 
of  New  York,  though  it  has  a  population  nearly  three 
times  as  great.  This  state  of  affairs,  though  it  may 
show  developement  in  only  a  single  direction,  should  be 
regarded  with  satisfaction,  as  its  tendency  must  be  to 
create  a  taste  for  general  gardening.  Certainly  those 
who  purchase  flowers  for  the  love  of  them  are  the  better 
prepared  to  appreciate  choice  trees  and  shrubs  and  fine 
garden  effects. 

The  improved  large  cemeteries  of  America,  show  on 
the  part  of  our  people  an  appreciation  of  the  finer  results 
of  the  gardening  art.  Years  ago  Boston,  Philadelphia, 
and  some  other  cities,  conceived  the  idea  of  roomy  garden 
or  park-like  cemeteries,  and  large  areas  were  laid  out  as 
ornamental  gardens  of  sepulture  near  these  cities.  Now 
nearly  every  large  city  has  an  improved  cemetery,  and 
altogether  there  are  in  America  a  number  of  such  burial 
places  that  are  the  most  beautiful  the  world  affords. 
There  can  be  no  doubt  as  to  the  value  of  these  in  culti- 
vating a  love  for  general  ornamental  gardening. 

Good  progress  has  been  made  in  America  of  late 
years,  in  the  matter  of  public  parks  and  gardens.  These 
afford  the  room  for  planting  fine  collections  of  trees, 
shrubs,  etc.,  and  some  now  contain  extensive  plantations 
of  these,  affording  opportunities  to  the  people  for  be- 
coming acquainted  with  kinds,  and  effective  arrange- 
ments. In  the  Buffalo  Parks  and  Boulevards,  more  than 
forty  thousand  trees,  shrubs  and  vines,  in  over  four 
hundred  varieties,  were  planted  within  the  past  ten  years, 
and  are  rapidly  developing  their  beauty.  It  is  noticeable 
that  as  this  rather  extensive  arboretum  develops,  the 
appreciation  of  arboreal  beauty  increases  among  the 
•people,  inciting  new  interest  in  adorning  homes  with 
trees  and  shrubs.  For  several  years  associations  for  the 


14  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

improvement  of  towns  and  villages  have  been  in  success- 
ful operation.  These,  by  planting  trees  and  promoting 
a  love  for  gardening,  have  already  produced  excellent 
results.  Such  societies  are  full  of  promise,  and  their 
existence  shows  a  proper  public  spirit. 

It  is  gratifying  to  note  that  instances  in  which  persons 
of  means  provide  free  pleasure  gardens  for  the  people  are 
becoming  more  numerous.  The  work  of  rural  improve- 
ment in  the  State  of  Connecticut  is  receiving  inestimable 
aid,  from  men  like  Mr.  Henry  C.  Bowen — who  at  his 
own  expense,  has  laid  out  a  public  park  of  sixty  acres 
and  given  it  to  the  people  of  Woodstock,  and  the  Field 
Brothers  who  have  shown  similar  liberality  at  Haddam, 
Conn.,  and  some  others  have  followed  their  examples. 
In  the  West,  Shaw  of  St.  Louis,  Wade  of  Cleveland,  and 
others,  have  by  their  noble  liberality  made  entire  com- 
munities happier,  healthier,  and  better,  and  the  works 
stand  as  monuments  more  enduring  than  stone,  keeping 
fresh  for  all  time  the  memory  of  the  worthy  donors. 
Scarcely  second  in  any  sense  to  such  benefactors,  are 
those  who  throw  open  their  magnificent  private  gardens 
to  the  public,  to  be  freely  enjoyed  under  reasonable 
restrictions.  In  time  let  us  hope  to  see  many  followers 
of  these  worthy  examples  among  the  thousands  who  are 
favored  with  great  wealth. 

AMERICAN   ARCHITECTURE   AND    GARDENING. 

A  taste  for  the  beautiful  developed  in  one  field  of  art,  is 
also  a  help  to  others.  Land  owners  now-a-days,  as  they 
look  from  the  modern  artistically  designed  house  to  the 
garden,  are  with  growing  frequency,  asking  the  questions, 
"is  not  the  garden  as  susceptible  of  improvement  as 
the  house  ?  Cannot  as  great  changes  for  the  better  be 
worked  here,  over  the  styles  of  a  generation  ago,  as  are 
being  effected  in  our  architecture  ? "  Extended  observa- 
tion shows  that  thousands  of  property  owners  throughout 


INTRODUCTION".  15 

our  land  are  putting  such  questions.  While  it  is  often 
true  that  no  direct  means  may  be  at  hand  for  suggest- 
ing and  carrying  out  fitting  improvements,  still  the 
mere  fact  that  conditions  exist  which  suggest  the  ques- 
tions, is  sure  to  hasten  the  day  when  gardens,  and  gar- 
den adornments,  in  keeping  with  our  improved  architec- 
ture, will  prevail  throughout  the  country. 

That  various  influences  are  at  work  in  awakening 
the  American  public  to  its  needs  and  opportunities  in 
the  line  of  improved  ornamental  grounds,  there  is  little 
doubt.  But  there  is  great  room  for  progress ;  the  field 
is  a  wide  one.  The  best  efforts  of  all  who  take  an 
interest  in  this  subject,  amateurs  and  professional  gar- 
deners ;  florists  and  nurserymen ;  editors  and  writers  ; 
are  needed  for  developing  correct  taste  and  methods,  so 
that,  as  the  demand  for  improved  pleasure  grounds  in- 
creases, there  may  be  at  command  the  best  possible  sys- 
tem of  these  for  our  climate,  and  for  the  tastes  and  means 
of  our  people — one  that  shall  be  essentially  American. 

"  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING  FOR  AMERICANS." 

In  order  to  contribute  a  share  towards  meeting  the 
public  want  in  this  line,  the  present  work  has  been  pre- 
pared. With  excellent  opportunities  for  knowing  the 
needs  of  the  people,  the  author  aims  to  present,  in  sim- 
ple style,  plain  instructions  as  to  the  materials,  arrange- 
ment, construction,  and  keeping  of  private  and  public 
gardens.  To  make  a  book  which  should  be  suitable  as  a 
constant  garden  companion,  convenient,  reliable,  com- 
prehensive, and  practical,  has  been  a  constant  aim.  It  is 
believed  that  the  subjects  are  presented  in  so  clear  a 
manner  that  any  intelligent  person  can,  by  its  help,  not 
only  successfully  undertake  the  oversight  of  an  ordinary 
garden,  whether  doing  the  work  with  his  or  her  own 
hands  or  directing  others,  but  may,  by  study,  become  so 
familiar  with  this  subject  in  all  its  departments,  as  to  be 


16  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

proof  against  impositions  by  the  ignorant  who  pretend  to 
be  gardeners,  and  also  the  representations  of  dishonest 
tree  agents. 

Throughout  the  book  the  common  names  of  plants  are 
adhered  too  as  much  as  possible,  for  the  reason  that" the 
botanical  names  often  prove  a  barrier  to  an  acquaintance 
with  them,  while  common  ones  invite  it.  But  as  the 
real  need  of  botanical  names  is  recognized — which  being 
in  the  Latin  language  are  the  same  in  all  nations, 
and  serve  to  guard  against  the  confusion  that  without 
them  would  be  inevitable,  they  are  given  in  parenthesis. 
In  case  no  common  name  is  in  use,  then  the  botanical 
name  often  is  printed  as  though  it  was  the  common  one. 

The  same  subject  is  often  touched  upon  in  different 
parts  of  the  book,  thus,  the  materials  of  a  Rockery  are 
referred  to  in  the  Second  Part,  the  arrangement  of  the 
Rockery  in  Part  Three,  Construction  in  Part  Four,  with 
Notes  on  Management  in  Part  Five.  A  copious  index  at 
the  end  will  always  lead  to  the  desired  topic. 


CHAPTER  II. 
PROFITS  OF  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

"  I  wouldn't  cut  down  that  tree  for  a  hundred  dollars," 
is  an  expression  one  may  often  hear  from  property  owners, 
as  they  point  to  some  favorite.  The  valuation  of  the 
tree  is  often  placed  two,  three,  or  five  times  as  high. 
"What  did  such  a  tree  cost  ?  Perhaps  one  or  two  dollars 
fifteen  years  or  so  ago  for  the  tree,  preparing  the  soil  and 
planting,  and  next  to  nothing  in  the  years  since.  From 
the  time  the  roots  took  hold  of  the  soil,  and  a  beautiful 
show  of  foliage  and  branches  appeared,  increasing  year 
by  year  in  size,  soon  giving  a  pleasant  shade  and  perhaps 


PKOFITS   OF   ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING.  17 

flowers,  it  has  been  a  constant  source  of  delight.  Was 
the  setting  of  that  tree  profitable,  considering  the  value 
at  which  it  is  now  appraised,  and  the  pleasure  it  has  af- 
forded ?  Profits  like  these  are  in  the  common  order  of 
things  in  intelligent  planting. 

In  my  experience,  I  have  assisted  in  so  improving  a 
place  of  two  acres  in  extent,  by  varying  the  grade,  filling 
in  marshy  parts,  arranging  walks,  drives,  trees,  and 
shrubs,  that  for  an  outlay  of  less  than  six  hundred  dol- 
lars, the  improvement  before  the  first  season  was  past 
was  so  marked,  as  to  increase  the  owner's  asking  price 
by  twenty-five  hundred  dollars. 

Instances  could  be  multiplied  to  show  that,  for  from 
two  to  five  per  cent  of  the  value  of  a  place,  spent  on 
garden  improvements,  returns  of  from  ten  to  sixty  per 
cent  in  increased  value  have  been  realized  in  a  short 
time.  Trees,  shrubs,  climbers,  and  plants  in  choice 
kinds,  well  arranged,  develop  rapidly  and  greatly  increase 
the  valuation  of  a  place,  through  augmenting  the  beauty 
of  the  architecture  and  the  general  effect.  The  presence 
of  these  always  makes  a  less  expensive  house  look  finer 
than  a  costlier  one,  which  presents  nothing  in  the  heat  of 
summer,  or  in  the  storms  of  winter,  for  the  eye  to  rest 
upon,,  but  bare  walls  and  harsh  outlines,  unbroken  by 
any  trees  or  other  vegetation. 

Many  a  man  with  the  means  and  disposition  will  pay 
several  thousand  dollars  to  architect,  builder,  and  fur- 
nisher, for  a  house,  with  the  view  that  the  beauty  and 
comfort  purchased  will  yield  satisfaction  proportionate  to 
the  cost.  To  such  a  person  it  may  be  said,  that  one  thou- 
sand dollars  prudently  invested  in  arranging  and  plant- 
ing the  home  grounds,  may  be  made  to  pay  a  much  larger 
percentage  of  pure  pleasure  and  interest,  than  the  same 
amount  put  into  the  building.  If  one  who  is  about  in- 
vesting five  thousand  dollars,  or  a  smaller  or  larger 
amount,  in  improving  a  home,  should  keep  back  five  per 


18  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

cent  of  the  sum  and  invest  it  in  improving  the  surround- 
ings, it  may  be  made  to  yield  far  better  returns  in  the 
years  to  come,  than  if  nearly  all  had  been  spent  on  the 
house,  and  a  mere  pittance  allowed  for  the  grounds. 

Will  it  pay  to  plant  trees  on  the  average  farm?  A  view, 
such  as  may  be  sometimes  had,  of  two  farms,  of  the  samo 
size  and  general  situation,  but  presenting  strong  con- 
trasts in  the  presence  and  absence  of  trees  and  shrubs 
respectively,  may  throw  light  on  the  question.  One  of  the 
farms  may  have  half  a  dozen  large  shade  trees  about  the 
yard,  some  climbers  over  the  piazzas  and  buildings ; 
dense  clumps  of  evergreens,  both  for  beauty  and  to  serve 
as  wind-breaks.  It  may  also  have  a  number  of  broad 
shade  trees  in  the  barn-yard,  along  the  lanes,  the  boun- 
daries, creeks,  and  in  other  places  where  nothing  else  can 
be  profitably  grown,  yielding  grateful  shade  and  shelter. 
The  other  has  not  a  sign  of  sylvan  beauty,  with  every 
part  without  shelter  by  trees  from  the  summer's  sun  or 
the  winter's  gales.  The  trees  on  the  first  farm  may 
have  cost  one  hundred  dollars  for  stock,  setting,  etc., 
while  any  disinterested  person  would  estimate  the  value 
they  add  to  the  place,  at  ten-fold  greater  than  their  cost. 

No  better  method  can  be  devised  for  rendering  farming 
a  pleasant  occupation  to  the  young,  than  the  judicious 
use  of  trees  and  garden  beauty  about  the  grounds.  Our 
attachments  to  trees  becomes  almost  as  strong  as  to  per- 
sons, and  if  there  are  fine  ones  growing  about  the  home, 
and  with  them  some  good  shrubs,  climbers,  flowers,  etc., 
they  will  add  new  strength  to  the  chain  which  binds 
the  heart  of  youth  to  the  hearthstone,  and  to  the  rural 
pursuits  among  which  they  have  been  reared. 

The  view  of  this  subject,  which  relates  to  gains  far 
above  those  that  can  be  computed  in  dollars,  is  an  im- 
portant one.  It  has  been  said  that  "  the  hope  of  America 
is  the  homes  of  America,"  whatever  adorns  one's  home 
— be  that  in  the  town  or  country — and  ennobles  his  domes- 


PROFITS   OF  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING.  19 

tic  life,  strengthens  his  love  for  country,  and  nurtures 
the  better  elements  of  the  nature,  in  those  who  aro 
thrown  in  contact  with  such  improvements.  To  pro- 
mote a  love  for  trees,  shrubs,  vines,  and  flowers,  by  cul- 
tivating and  studying  them,  develops  in  children  a  love 
for  the  beautiful  in  nature,  in  art,  and  still  more  in  char- 
acter. Nothing  is  truer  than  that  the  love  of  nature 
sharpens  the  senses,  and  quickens  all  the  intellectual 
faculties.  Were  parents  to  provide  to  the  fullest  practi- 
cable degree,  the  simple  means  for  encouraging  the  love 
of  ornamental  gardening,  and  of  the  study  of  Botany, 
and  other  closely  allied  sciences  at  home,  they  early  secure 
for  the  young  a  source  of  high  enjoyment,  that  is  un- 
known elsewhere,  one  which  elevates  the  mind  and  fills  it 
with  noble  aspirations.  Besides  these  things,  the  mere 
spending  of  time  on  the  part  of  all,  and  especially  of 
children  and  women,  in  the  exercise  and  enjoyment  that 
comes  from  associating  with,  and  caring  for  plants,  is 
highly  conducive  to  health.  It  is  largely  because  of  their 
rambles  and  exercise  in  the  open  air  by  the  women  of 
England,  that  they  generally  present  the  bloom  and  vig- 
or of  youth  until  far  advanced  in  life.  It  would  be  both 
easy  and  inexpensive  to  provide  the  majority  of  American 
homes  with  these  opportunities  for  health-giving  exercise. 
It  pays  to  do  well  whatever  is  done  in  ornamental 
and  landscape  gardening.  In  starting  such  work,  it  is 
too  often  undertaken  without  anything  like  a  definite 
plan.  It  would  be  quite  as  reasonable  to  work  without 
a  well-considered  plan  in  building  our  houses,  yet  we  find 
that  large  sums  of  money  in  the  aggregate  are  paid  to 
architects  for  house-plans  and  superintendence  of  work, 
while  for  the  surroundings,  little  thought  is  given  to  call- 
ing in  the  services  of  the  trained  gardener.  When  the 
day  comes  that  the  landscape  gardener  will  be  consulted 
along  with  the  house  architect,  in  matters  of  home  im- 
provement, then  a  less  sum  of  money  will  go  farther  to- 


20  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

wards  purchasing  real  beauty,  pleasure,  and  comfort, 
than  when  the  latter  alone  is  employed. 

A  large  part  of  the  work  of  the  landscape  architect  now 
consists  in  planning  for  the  remodelling  of  places  laid  out 
years  ago  in  bad  taste  and  ignorance.  In  every  instance 
of  this  kind,  there  is  in  some  degree  entailed  the  three- 
fold expense  of  first  doing  the  work,  then  undoing  it, 
and  lastly  doing  it  over  again;  had  it  been  well  conceived 
and  executed  at  the  first,  the  work  would  have  answered 
for  many  years. 

In  speaking  of  the  profitable  advantages  of  planting 
shade  trees  in  cities,  Mr.  Thomas  Meehan  lately  wrote  as 
follows: 

"Passing  through  a  street  in  Philadelphia,  on  which 
blocks  of  first-class  houses  had  been  erected  on  both 
sides,  but  evidently  by  two  different  owners,  there  ap- 
peared to  be  a  wonderful  difference  in  success  by  street 
trees  alone.  There  was  a  pretty  row  of  Carolina  poplars 
on  one  side;  on  the  other  side  no  trees  at  all.  This  side 
had  innumerable  notices  of  houses  'to  rent,'  but  on  the 
tree-shaded  side  every  house  was  occupied.  Both  blocks 
appeared  to  be  houses  of  about  equal  age  and  value,  and 
there  was  no  apparent  difference  between  the  two.  There 
seemed  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  presence  of  trees 
alone  had  given  the  one  side  the  great  advantage." 


CHAPTER    III. 
TIME    REQUIRED    FOR   PRODUCING    GOOD    EFFECTS. 

There  are  many  who  love  trees  and  shrubs,  but  are 
kept  from  planting  them  by  false  notions  respecting  the 
time  it  will  take  to  secure  a  good  effect  and  shade.  It  is 
possible  to  so  treat  trees,  that  in  ten  years  they  will  not 
grow  the  same  number  of  inches ;  but  on  the  other  hand 


TIME  REQUIRED  FOB  PRODUCING  GOOD  EFFECTS.        21 


they  may,  by  fair  management,  reach  a  hight  of  from 
twice  to  three  times  as  many  feet  in  ten  years  from 
planting.  The  difference  lies  in  matters  that  ordinarily 
are  in  a  large  degree  within  our  control.  When  trees 
remain  almost  at  a  standstill  for  a  long  time,  it  indicates 
either  that  they  were  of  poor  quality  when  planted  ;  or, 
in  rare  cases,  that  the  soil  cannot  be  fitted  to  meet  their 
wants,  but  very  commonly  that  they  are  deprived  of  the 
food  and  moisture  they  would  appropriate  if  they  had  a 
chance.  Trees  and  plants  are  much  like  animals  in  this; 
that  they  may  either  be  starved  to  death,  or  they  may  be 
liberally  supplied  with  food  and  have  proper  care,  to  pro- 
duce the  most  satisfactory  results  as  to  development  and 
beauty.  As  a  general  thing,  deep  trenching  or  subsoil- 
ing,  with  liberal  manuring,  and  then  thorough  culture 
if  the  trees  and  shrubs  are  growing  in  borders,  or  free 
watering  if  standing  in  the  sod  in  seasons  of  drouth,  are 
the  things  needful  for  producing  the  best  returns.  Be- 
cause these  points  are  not  better  heeded,  three-fourths  of 
all  the  trees  and  shrubs  in  private  grounds  are  set  out 
poorly,  grow  slowly,  and  hardly  make  a  decent  showing 
in  a  life-time. 

To  show  what  growth  may  be  expected  in  trees  and 
shrubs  under  fair  treatment,  I  give  some  measurements 
made  in  Buffalo  Park  of  trees  and  shrubs,  which  were 
planted  seven  and  eight  years  before  : 

American  Elm,  19  ft.  high, 

Silver  Maple,  23 

Norway  Maple,  17 

Sugar  Maple,  16 

White  Poplar,  30 

Balsam  Poplar,  35 

Lornbardy  Poplar,  40 

Norway  Spruce,  16 

Black  and  White  Pines,  12  to  15 
Strong-growing  Shrubs,  5  "  12 
Dwarf-growing  Snrubs,  2  "  4 

Let  it  be  borne  in  mind,  that  these  dimensions  are  for 
growths  under  what  may  be  considered  as  ordinarily  fair 


15  ft.  broad. 

14 

14 

10 

25 

15 

8  ft.  broad. 
10  to  12 
5  "  10 


22  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

treatment,  as  regards  manuring,  culture,  and  the  impor- 
tant point  of  summer  watering.  In  small  collections, 
instead  of  those  containing  many  thousands,  as  in  the 
case  here  referred  to,  better  results  might  be  expected. 
As  an  illustration,  I  also  give  measurements  made  on  the 
banks  of  a  lake,  where  the  roots  could  take  up  an  abund- 
ance of  moisture,  and  where  the  soil  naturally  abounded 
in  vegetable  matter.  It  should  be  noticed,  however,  that 
the  measurements  which  follow,  mostly  apply  to  a  class  of 
smaller  growing  trees  than  those  named  in  the  list  above: 

European  Alder,  30  ft.  high,                20  ft.  broad. 

Willow,  30  to  35"       "  25  to  30 

Cut-Leaved  Birch,  28  "      "                  15 

Bird  Cherry,  23  "      "                  20 

Strong-growing  Shrubs,  8  to  15  "       "            8  to  12 

Dwarf -growing  Shrubs,  3  "    6  "      "           5  "  10 

Downing  tells.of  a  Silver  maple,  twelve  years  planted, 
that  had  a  trunk  one  foot  in  diameter,  and  which  made 
shoots  six  feet  long  in  one  season.  Hoopes  describes  a 
Burr  oak,  twelve  years  from  the  acorn,  that  was  seventeen 
feet  high.  We  may  occasionally  meet  trees  and  shrubs 
growing  wild,  that  have  made  growths  equal  to  any  in- 
dicated by  the  figures  here  given. 

It  is  well  to  know  that,  as  a  rule,  shrubby  growths  de- 
velop signs  of  mature  beauty  sooner  than  do  trees. 
Planted  in  good  soil,  these  take  hold  quickly,  and  in  a 
few  years  show  beauty  in  habit,  foliage,  and  flowers,  that 
is  scarcely  excelled  in  after  years,  though  they  may  in- 
crease in  size.  On  this  and  other  accounts  I  usually  rec- 
ommend a  free  use  of  the  flowering  and  other  shrubs  in 
planting  both  large  and  small  places. 

Planting  is  often  delayed  from  year  to  year,  until  suffi- 
cient time  has  passed  to  have  allowed  the  trees  to  make 
large  growths,  had  they  been  set  when  first  the  idea  was 
entertained.  Almost  any  shrub  or  tree,  with  good  treat- 
ment, may  be  counted  on  to  reach  a  very  pleasing  size 
in  from  two  to  six  years  from  planting.  How  soon  such 
*  period  slips  away  ! 


PART  II. 

MATERIALS    OF    ORNAMENTAL 
GARDENING. 

There  are  now  estimated  to  be  in  the  vegetable  kingdom 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  different  species 
of  plants.  Out  of  this  vast  number  the  arboriculturist 
and  florist  have  selected  a  great  many,  which  are  classed 
as  ornamental. 

In  the  following  pages  such  description  is  given  of  the 
natural  materials  which  may  enter  into  the  work  of 
ornamental  gardening,  as  may  serve  to  convey  an  idea 
of  their  uses. 

CHAPTER  IV. 
THE  GROUND  AND  THE  GRASS. 

The  soil  of  the  earth's  surface  has  this  paramount  im- 
portance, that  it  is  the  home  of  the  roots  of  all  ordinary 
forms  of  vegetation.  While  there  are  many  kinds  of  soil, 
such  as  sandy,  clayey,  loamy,  and  peaty,  varying  much  in 
character,  yet  such  is  the  adaptability  of  plants  to  soils, 
and  so  susceptible  are  these  to  improvement  by  the  arts 
of  culture,  that  some  kinds  of  plants  can  always  be  found 
that  will  thrive  readily  in  any  properly  improved  soils. 
On  the  preparation  of  soils,  see  Part  IV. 

Almost  as  common  as  the  ground  itself,  are  the  grasses 
which  clothe  it,  and  which  constitute  a  distinct  and 
extensive  botanical  order.  That  they  are  very  important 
in  ornamental  gardening,  every  one  knows  ;  we  could 
imagine  nothing  more  desolate  in  appearance  than  the 
(23) 


24  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

barren  aspect  of  our  earth,  were  the  carpet  of  the  grasses 
lacking.  The  list  of  kinds  used  in  lawn-making  is  not 
very  large,  these  named  below  being  the  kinds  found 
most  desirable  for  this  purpose,  in  our  climate. 

Rhode  Island  Bent  Grass  (Agrostis  vulgaris,  var.),  a 
grass  of  fine  quality  in  some  sections,  when  sown  by 
itself. 

Creeping  Bent  Grass  (Agrostis  alba,  var.  stolonifera], 
thrives  in  partially  shaded  places ;  excellent  for  small 
yards. 

Red  Top  Grass  (Agrostis  vulgaris},  a  valuable  kind, 
doing  well  as  a  lawn  grass  in  almost  all  soils. 

Green,  or  June  Grass  ( Poapratensis],  also  widely  known 
as  "Kentucky  Blue  Grass,"  is  one  of  the  best  species, 
thriving  well  in  dry,  and  also  in  somewhat  shaded  places. 

Perennial  Rye-Grass  ( Lolium  perenne),  one  of  the  best 
grasses  south  of  Philadelphia,  starting  early  in  the  spring, 
and  of  a  good  color. 

Yellow  Oat  Grass  (Avenaflavescens)  stands  drouth  well, 
but  should  be  mixed  with  other  kinds. 

Dog  Tail  Grass  (Cynosurus  cristatus),  suited  to  dry 
hard  soils  and  hills. 

Red  Fescue  Grass  (Festuca  ovina,  var.  rubrd),  adapted 
for  gravelly  banks ;  coarse. 

Reed  Canary  Grass  (Phalaris  arundinacea),  a  coarse 
grass,  suitable  for  marshy  and  wet  places. 

Tall  Fescue  Grass  (Festuca  elatior),  suitable  for  moist, 
strong  clay  soils;  in  shady  places  and  along  the  sea  coast; 
coarse. 

Sweet  Vernal  Grass  (Antlioxanthum  odoratum).  The 
newly  mown  grass  of  this  species  emits  a  pleasing  fragrance, 
on  which  account  it  is  considered  desirable  to  add  a  small 
quantity  of  its  seed  to  other  kinds. 

White  Clover  (Trifolium  repens)  is  sometimes  mixed 
with  the  grasses,  but  is  not  recommended  for  rich  soils  or 
for  lawns  that  are  kept  watered. 


WOODY    GROWTHS — TREES   AND   SHRUBS. 


CHAPTER   V. 
WOODY  GROWTHS.— TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

In  trees  and  shrubs  we  have  some  of  the  finest  forms  of 
natural  beauty.  These  present  a  great  variety  of  orna- 
mental qualities,  in  habit,  foliage,  and  flowers,  and  possess 
wide  adaptability  for  beautifying  purposes.  In  nature, 


A, 60 feet  and  upwards;   B,  30  to  60  feet;   C,  15  to  30  feet ;   D,  tree  9  to  15  feet ;  E. 
shrubs  9  to  15  feet ;  F,  tree  5  to  9  feet ;  G,  shrub  5  to  9  feet ;  H,  1  to  5  leet. 

Fig.  1.— THE   COMPARATIVE  SIZES  OF  TREES  AND  SHEUES. 

mountains,  plains  and  valleys  all  support  kinds  peculiar 
to  these  localities  and  that  are  perfectly  at  home  in  them. 
Planters  who  know  only  the  comparatively  few  kinds  of 
trees  and  shrubs  that  are  commonly  seen  in  American 
yards  and  pleasure  grounds,  can  hardly  be  aware  what 
they  miss,  in  not  employing  larger  assortments  of  trees. 
2 


26  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

The  lack  which  generally  prevails  in  this  respect  is  inex- 
cusable in  the  face  of  Nature's  liberality  in  providing. 

Those  who  are  interested  in  the  study  of  trees  and 
shrubs,  with  a  view  to  making  up  lists  for  planting,  find 
that  the  size  to  which  these  attain  at  maturity,  is  an  im- 
portant consideration.  Hence  in  the  enumeration  of  the 
trees  in  these  pages,  care  is  taken  to  give  the  sizes  to 
which  the  kinds  attain.  A  classification  as  to  size  is 
introduced,  the  different  and  relative  sizes  being  repre- 
sented by  letters,  as  shown  by  figure  1,  and  the  appended 
explanation.  In  the  descriptions  throughout  the  work, 
the  letters  given  answer  as  keys  which,  by  the  help  of  the 
engraving,  lead  to  a  correct  idea  of  individual  and  rela- 
tive sizes. 

,Let  it  be  understood  that  in  all  cases  the  sizes  indi- 
cated are  only  approximately  correct,  as  difference  of  soil 
and  other  circumstances  have  much  to  do  in  causing  de- 
viations in  the  hight  of  the  same  species. 

The  general  plan  of  arrangement  in  the  following 
chapter  is,  to  begin  with  descriptions  of  large-growing 
kinds,  and  end  with  the  smaller  species.  No  alphabeti- 
cal classification  is  here  attempted,  but  for  convenience 
the  different  kinds  are  thus  arranged  in  the  index. 

To  save  repetitions  of  botanical  terms  (which  are 
usually  in  parenthesis),  the  generic  name  which  appears 
in  the  head  line,  is  represented  by  its  initials  through- 
out the  descriptions  of  the  species  of  each  genus.  When 
there  is  more  than  one  variety  of  any  species,  the  abbre- 
viation var.  (thus,  var.  regalis),  precedes  the  variety  name 
of  all  that  follow  the  one  first  given. 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  27 

CHAPTER   VI. 
DECIDUOUS  TKEES  AND  SHRUBS. 

The  term  deciduous  is  applied  to  those  trees  and  shrubs, 
the  leaves  of  which  fall  in  autumn,  and  is  used  in  contra- 
distinction to  evergreen,  or  persistent. 

THE  ELM.      Ulmus.   A.  G. 

The  Elms  in  their  different  species  afford  much  diver- 
sity, and  as  they  grow  readily  in  almost  any  soil  and  situa- 
tion, they  almost  without  exception  give  great  satisfac- 
tion to  planters. 

THE  AMERICAN  WHITE  OR  WEEPING  ELM  (Ulmus 
Americana). — A  well-known  tree  with  spreading,  curv- 
ing, pendant  branches,  and  of  stately,  picturesque  appear- 
ance. Where  space  admits,  it  is  one  of  the  best  street 
trees,  because  of  its  inclination  to  form  a  long  trunk,  A. 

The  ENGLISH  ELM  ( U.  campestris),  with  its  numerous 
varieties,  forms  a  valuable  section.  The  normal  form  is 
tall  and  irregular  in  shape,  its  branches  leaving  the  trunk 
almost  horizontally.  Leaves  smaller  and  more  regularly 
cut  than  those  of  the  American,  A.  Berard's  English 
Elm  (var.  Berardi)  is  a  miniature  tree,  slender  and  pyra- 
midal in  habit,  with  distinctly  cut  leaves,  B.  Clem- 
mer's  English  Elm  (var.  Clemmeri)  differs  but  little  from 
the  type ;  of  rapid  growth,  A.  Webb's  Curled-leaved 
English  Elm  (var.  crispa)  is  dwarfish,  with  curled  leaves; 
distinct,  B. 

Some  of  the  varieties  of  the  English  Elm  incline  to  a 
pendulous  habit,  such  as  the  Weeping  Small-leaved  Eng- 
lish Elm  (var.  microphylla  pendula),  a  charming  tree  for 
small  lawns,  if  grafted  at  six  or  eight  feet  high,  0. 
The  common  Cork-barked  English  Elm  (var.  suberosa) 
is  a  desirable  tree.  Weeping  Cork-barked  English  Elm 


28  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

(var.  sulerosa  pendula),  a  picturesque  grower,  B.  The 
Twiggy  English  Elm  (var.  viminalis),  with  small  leaves 
and  slender  branches,  is  distinct  and  beautiful,  0. 

Some  of  this  section  have  characteristic  foliage,  which 
renders  them  valuable,  such  as  the  Variegated-leaved 
English  Elm  (var.  variegata  argentea],  with  the  leaves  dis- 
tinctly mottled  with  silvery  white,  B.  Golden-leaved 
English  Elm  (var.  aurea)  has  its  leaves  blotched  with  yel- 
low. Purple-leaved  English  Elm  (var.  purpured),  a  hand- 
some tree,  with  the  leaves  purple-tinged  early  in  the  sea- 
son ;  compact  and  upright  in  habit,  A.  Nettle-leaved 
English  Elm  (var.  utricafoUa)  has  large  serrated  leaves, 
of  peculiar  appearance  ;  fine  habit,  A.  Curled-leaved 
English  Elm  (var.  cucullata),  with  curled,  hood-like 
leaves,  sharply  notched,  B.  Plume-like  English  Elm 
(var.  plumosa),  another  curled-leaved  variety,  the  branches 
and  foliage  of  which  have  a  plume-like  appearance. 

There  are  also  belonging  to  the  English  Elms,  a  beauti- 
ful compact-growing  variety,  with  dark  foliage,  called  the 
Serrate-leaved  English  Elm  (var.  serratifolia],  B ;  the 
Belgian  Elm  (var.  Belgica),  of  rapid,  spreading  growth, 
much  planted  in  European  streets,  A;  Cornish  Elm  (var. 
Cornubiensis),  of  vigorous  upright  growth,  A  ;  and  the 
Monumental  Elm  (var.  monum entails),  of  distinct  colum- 
nar form,  dense  and  slow-growing,  C,  besides  some  others 
that  are  less  distinct. 

The  SCOTCH,  or  WTCH  ELM  ( U.  montana),  and  varieties 
possess  great  value  for  ornamental  planting,  usually  hav- 
ing large  leaves,  broad  forms  and  heavy  verdure,  and  some 
are  pendant  in  habit.  The  type  is  a  fine  spreading 
grower,  B.  The  Weeping  Camperdown  Elm  (var.  Camper- 
downi)  is  of  unsurpassed  excellence,  and  when  grafted 
eight  feet  high,  forms,  with  its  long,  dark-green  leaves 
and  masses  of  luxuriant,  hanging  branches,  a  striking  and 
picturesque  object ;  with  slight  training  the  tree  forms 
almost  a  perfect  arbor,  C.  Of  others,  the  common  Weep- 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  29 

ing  Scotch  Elm  (var.  pendula)  resembles  the  Camper- 
down,  but  is  rather  Jess  valuable;  it  has  peculiar  freaks 
of  growth,  the  branches  sometimes  leaving  the  tree 
obliquely,  then  again  in  a  horizontal  or  perpendicular 
direction,  B.  The  Rough-leaved  Weeping  Scotch  Elm 
(var.  pendula  rugosa)  is  a  valuable  tree,  with  large,  rough 
leaves,  B.  The  Crisp-leaved  Weeping  Scotch  Elm  (var. 
crispa),  has  crisped  leaves.  Huntingdon's  Elm  (var. 
Huntingdoni),  and  Blandford's,  or  Superb  Elm  (var. 
superbd)  are  Scotch  Elms  of  value,  the  former  very  erect, 
A;  the  latter,  a  majestic  tree,  with  smooth,  grayish  bark, 
the  foliage  attractive  in  color,  and  forming  a  fine  specimen 
soon  after  planting,  A.  The  Broad-leaved  Elm  (var.  lati- 
/olia),  a  handsome  grower,  B,  and  Dampier's  Pyramidal 
Elm  (var.  pyramidalis  Dampieri),  an  elegant  pyramidal 
grower,  B,  are  desirable  varieties.  The  White-margined 
Scotch  Elm  (var.  alba  marginata)  is  a  delicate-growing 
variety,  said  to  be  superb  if  grown  in  partial  shade.  The 
Ash-colored  Elm  ( U.  montana,  var.  cinerea),  with  fine, 
rich-looking  foliage,  A,  and  Dove's  Elm  ( U.  Dovcei),  of 
pyramidal  shape,  and  vigorous,  being  valuable  for  street- 
planting,  are  worthy  of  mention  as  ornamental  species. 

The  native  RED,  or  SLIPPERY  ELM  ( U.  fulva)  is  a  fine 
tree  for  large  lawns  or  street  planting,  but  the  growth  is 
somewhat  straggling,  B,  There  is  also  a  weeping  form 
of  the  last  named  (var.  pendula},  which  is  well  spoken  of. 

THE  OAK.     Quercus.     A.  G. 

An  Oak  that  has  had  ample  time  and  space  for  develop- 
ment, is  almost  the  perfect  type  of  all  that  is  grand  and 
expressive  in  a  tree.  The  species  are  very  numerous,  vary- 
ing much  in  habit,  size,  and  general  appearance,  and  de- 
serve more  attention  in  ornamental  planting  than  they 
have  yet  received.  While  some  grow  slowly,  others  are 
scarcely  excelled  in  their  freedom  of  growth.  The  first 
ten  described  below  are  natives  of  the  United  States. 


30  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

SCARLET  OAK  (Q.  coccinea),  a  rapid  grower  of  pyramidal 
form,  with  beautiful,  light-green,  deeply-cut  leaves,  which 
turn  to  an  intense  scarlet  in  autumn,  A. 

WHITE  OAK  (Q.  alba).  This  typical  oak  is  large,  broad, 
and  majestic;  leaves  with  rounded  lobes,  pale-green  above 
and  glaucous  beneath,  A. 

SWAMP  WHITE  OAK  (Q.  bicolor);  handsome  and  tall; 
its  large,  sinuate-toothed  leaves  turning  scarlet  in  au- 
tumn,  A. 

BURR  or  MOSSY  CUP  OAK  (Q.  macrocarpa),  of  spreading 
growth,  with  very  large,  deeply-lobed  leaves,  which  show 
some  variation  in  size  and  form;  acorns  large,  cup  mossed. 

SOUTHERN  OVER-CUP  OAK  (Q.  lyratd),  a  Southern  tree, 
hardy  in  the  North;  with  large,  obovate-oblong  leaves, 
crowded  together. 

SHINGLE  OAK  (Q.  imbricaria).  Laurel-like,  lanceolate- 
oblong  leaves,  turning  to  rich  carmine  in  the  autumn,  B. 

BED  OAK  (Q.  rubra),  a  handsome,  rapid-growing  tree, 
fine  as  a  single  specimen;  leaves  large,  sinuately-cut, 
assuming  a  deep  red  in  the  fall,  A. 

PIN  OAK  (Q.  palustris),  a  rapid-growing,  pyramidal 
tree,  valuable  for  streets;  branches  slightly  drooping,  with 
bright,  glossy  foliage  that  is  very  ornamental. 

CHESTNUT  OAK  (Q.  Prinus).  Leaves  serrated,  resem- 
bling those  of  the  chestnut,  a  most  beautiful  species;  will 
grow  in  very  poor  soil,  A.  Cut-leaved  Chestnut  Oak  (var. 
lacinata)  is  a  variety  of  the  preceding,  with  cut  leaves. 

WILLOW  OAK  (Q.  Phellos),  remarkable  for  its  narrow, 
willow-like  leaves  and  slender  shoots;  distinct,  B. 

ENGLISH  OAKS. — These  are  distinct,  and  embrace  some 
very  valuable  sorts.  The  common  English  Royal  Oak  (Q. 
Robur)  is  a  grandly  beautiful  tree  of  rather  slow  growth, 
leaves  of  an  uniform  color  on  both  sides,  A.  The  fol- 
lowing are  some  of  its  leading  varieties:  Louett's  Oak 


DECIDUOUS  TKEES   AND   SHRUBS.  31 

(var.  Louetti),  differing  from  the  type  in  having  larger 
leaves  rather  more  lanceolate  in  form,  A  ;  Purple-leaved 
Oak  (var.  atropurpurea),  a  beautiful  tree  but  a  slow 
grower,  with  dark  purple  leaves  that  hold  color  all  sum- 
mer, very  effective,  B;  Dark -leaved  Oak  (var.  nigricans), 
said  to  be  darker  than  the  purple-leaved  variety,  B; 
Golden-leaved  Oak  (var.  concordia),  a  most  effective 
variety,  the  leaves  with  a  rich,  yellow  tinge,  and  pre- 
senting a  peculiar  waxy  appearance,  C ;  Silver-leaved 
Oak  (var.  argentea  variegata),  leaves  somewhat  mottled 
with  white  at  their  edges,  B.  There  are  some  sorts  that 
have  striking  leaf-forms,  namely:  Contorted-leaved  Oak 
(var.  contortd),  with  peculiar  twisted  leaves,  B;  Curled 
Pyramidal  Oak  (var.  cucuttata),  the  leaves  of  which  are 
curled  on  their  edges;  Cut-leaved  Oak  (var.  laciniata), 
one  of  the  best  cut-leaved  trees  known,  leaves  nearly  di- 
vided to  the  mid-rib,  tree  of  elegant  habit,  B ;  Large- 
leaved  Oak  (var.  macrophylla);  var.  latifolia  cucullata, 
singular  looking,  with  broad  leaves  slightly  turned  down 
at  the  edges.  The  Weeping  Oak  (var.  pendula),  with 
long,  slender,  willow-like  branches,  and  the  Pyramidal 
Oak  (var.  fastigiata),  a  remarkable  tree,  growing  some- 
what like  the  Upright  Poplars,  but  more  slender,  B,  all 
belong  to  the  English  or  Koyal  Oak,  and  are  desirable  in 
ornamental  planting. 

Of  other  foreign  kinds  the  Turkey  Oak  (Q.  Cerris)  is 
very  desirable;  of  rapid  growth,  with  tall  symmetrical 
head;  finely  lobed,  bright,  shining  leaves,  which,  after 
turning  brown  in  the  autumn,  remain  far  into  the  winter 
on  the  tree,  A. 

Mongolian  Oak  (Q.  Mongolica),  a  rare  tree  with  long, 
deeply  notched,  green-glaucous  leaves. 

There  are  several  desirable  Japanese  species,  among 
them :  Q.  Daimio,  with  broad,  glossy,  dark-green 
leaves,  of  leathery  texture,  covered  with  brownish  down 


ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


when  young;  Q.  dentata,  with  deeply-toothed  leaves  that 
give  the  tree  a  pleasing  appearance. 

THE   HORSE-CHESTNUT  AND  BUCKEYE,   (JEsCUlus).    A-E. 


The  Horse-Chestnut,  including  the  American  Buck- 
eyes, are  much  esteemed  as  ornamental  trees  the  world 
over,  for  their  regular  forms,  heavy,  deep-green  foliage 
and  their  flowers,  which  latter  give  the  tree  a  magnificent 
appearance  for  weeks  in  the  spring. 

The  COMMON  or  EUROPEAN  HORSE-CHESTNUT  (2E. 
Hippocastanum)  is  hardly  excelled  as  a  lawn  or  street 
tree;  in  time  losing  largely  the  sameness  of  form,  which 
is  conspicuous,  and.  to  some  objectionable  in  the  young 
trees,  and  taking  on  sufficient  irregularity  to  produce  a 
charming  effect  of  light  and  shade.  In  old  trees,  some 
branches  will  almost  droop  to  the  ground.  A  slight  ob- 
jection to  the  tree  is  the  litter  it  produces  by  dropping 
its  buds  and  nuts  in  the  fall,  A.  There  are  several  fine 
varieties,  namely:  the  Double  White  (var.  flore  pleno); 
the  Double  Bed  (var.  rubra  flore  pleno),  which  possess 
the  advantage  of  not  producing  fruit,  hence  litter  on 
this  account  is  avoided.  The  flowers  of  these  are  very 
attractive,  and  the  form  of  growth  may  easily  be  kept 
shrub-like,  B.  Memminger's  Horse-  Chestnut  (var.  Mem- 
mingeri)  is  a  variety,  the  leaves  of  which  are  sometimes 
slightly  sprinkled  with  white,  making  the  tree  interest- 
ing, A.  The  Cut-leaved  Horse-Chestnut  (var.  laciniata), 
has  handsome  leaves  deeply  and  delicately  cut,  B.  Van 
Houtte's  Dwarf  Horse-  Chestnut  (var.  nana  Van  Houttei] 
is  dwarfish,  and  very  desirable  for  small  places. 

The  BED-FLOWERING  HORSE-CHESTNUT  (^ffi.  rubi- 
cunda)  is  now  regarded  as  a  distinct  species;  it  is  of 
slow  growth,  with  dark-green  leaves,  and  producing  bril- 
liant red  flowers  in  showy  racemes,  B.  There  is  a  Golden 
variegated  variety  (var.  foliis  aureis),  and  a  Dwarf.  Bed- 


DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND  SHRUBS.  33 

flowering  variety  (var.  nana),  both  of  which  are  desir- 
able, G. 

The  CHINESE  HORSE-CHESTNUT  (^E.  Chinensis),  of 
comparatively  recent  introduction,  is  a  rapid  grower  with 
large  leaves. 

The  BUCKEYES,  sometimes  called  the  Smooth-fruited 
Horse-Chestnuts,  were  formerly  placed  in  a  separate  gO- 


;:.  2.  —  DWARF  HORSE-CHESTNUT. 


nus,  Pavia.  Botanists  now  group  them  as  a  section 
(Pavia),  of  ^sculus. 

The  OHIO  BUCKEYE  (J£.  glalra)  has  large,  smooth 
leaves,  and  panicles  of  small,  pale  yellow  flowers  in  early 
spring,  B. 

The  YELLOW  BUCKEYE  (^E.flava)  is  a  beautiful  low 
tree  or  shrub,  with  pale  green,  downy  leaves  and  bright 
yellow  flowers,  C. 

The  RED  BUCKEYE  (JE.  Pavia)  is  a  native  of  Vir- 
ginia and  southward,  forming  a  small-sized  tree,  with 
brownish  red  flowers,  G.  From  this  has  sprung  a  num- 
ber of  small  Buckeyes,  such  as  the  Dark  Red  Buckeye 
(var.  atrosanguinea),  with  dark  flowers  and  smooth 
leaves;  the  Flesh-colored  Buckeye  (var.  carneapubescens), 


34  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

the  Purple  Buckeye  (var.  purpurea),  with  flowers  of  the 
colors  indicated  by  the  names:  Whitley's  Buckeye  (var. 
Whitleyi),  a  fine  variety,  with  brilliant  flowers  and  hand- 
some foliage. 

Among  other  Buckeyes,  there  is  one  known  as  uffi. 
carnea  superba,  which  is  very  distinct,  with  showy  dark 
crimson  flowers;  and  two  very  dwarf  kinds,  namely  the 
Long  Kacemed  or  Small  Buckeye  (^E.  parviftora), 
figure  2,  a  valuable  species  of  low  spreading  habit  and  at- 
tractive white  flowers.  The  Dwarf-pendulous  Buckeye 
(j$$.  pumila  pendula)  has  drooping  branches.  These 
dwarf  Buckeyes  (C-D),  are  well  adapted  to  small  grounds. 

THE  CHESTNUT.     Castanea,   A-C. 

The  AMERICAN  CHESTNUT  (C.  vesca,  var.  Americana) 
is  a  beautiful,  neat  tree,  with  long-pointed  leaves,  that 
have  scalloped  edges;  produces  sweet  fruit,  A. 

The  SWEET  or  SPANISH  CHESTNUT  (C.  vesca)  is  a  fine 
lawn  tree,  yielding  a  superior  quality  of  fruit;  a  little 
tender  north  of  Washington,  B.  There  is  a  variety  with 
slightly  white  margined  leaves,  known  as  var.  argentea 
variegata,  but  the  growth  is  not  very  satisfactory,  C. 

The  DWARF  CHESTNUT  or  CHINQUAPIN  ( C.  pumila) t 
a  native  of  Ohio  and  southward;  is  a  neat  grower,  form- 
ing a  globular  head,  with  lance-oblong  leaves,  which  are 
whitish  underneath,  C. 

A  recent  introduction  is  the  JAPAN  CHESTNUT  (C. 
Japonica),  which  promises  well  for  hardiness,  beauty, 
and  fruit-bearing  qualities. 

While  preferring  light  soils,  the  Chestnuts  also  do  well 
in  clayey  loams. 

THE   POPLAR.      Populus.      A-B. 

No  other  trees  will,  as  a  rule,  attain  to  effective  pro- 
portions sooner  than  the  Poplars,  and  on  this  account 
they  possess  special  value  in  ornamental  gardening  for 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  35 

creating  effects  quickly.  Most  of  them  are  valuable  as 
single  specimens  on  the  lawn.  They  are  objected  to  by 
some,  because  sprouts  come  up  from  the  roots.  These 
are  not  difficult  to  keep  down.  The  Poplars  are  desir- 
able for  back-grounds,  shade  for  stock-yards,  and  to  plant 
in  out-of-the-way  places. 

The  WHITE  or  SILVER  POPLAR  or  ABELE  (P.  alba)  is 
a  fine  tree  with  heart-shaped,  dark-green,  smooth  leaves, 
silvery  white  beneath,  A.  The  Gray  Poplar  resembles  the 
preceding  somewhat,  but  is  more  upright,  and  with  leaves 
not  so  green  above,  or  so  white  beneath. 

ALBA  NIVEA  is  a  variety  with  larger  leaves  than  the 
type,  but  resembling  it  in  other  respects.  All  of  these, 
while  valuable  trees  for  ornament,  are  disposed  to  sprout 
from  the  root. 

The  LOMBARDT  POPLAR  (P.  dilatata)  is  the  well-known 
erect,  spire-like  species,  growing  rapidly,  and  possessing 
peculiar  value  on  account  of  its  manner  of  growth,  A. 

The  NECKLACE  POPLAR,  or  Cotton-wood  (P.  monilife- 
ra),  is  a  vigorous  tree,  with  the  young  branches  angled;  it 
has  large  leaves,  and  its  catkins  resemble  a  string  of  beads. 

The  CAROLINA  POPLAR  is'a  vigorous  ornamental  shade 
tree,  A.  A  variety  of  this,  named  "  Eugenie,"  is  of 
pyramidal  habit  and  rapid  growth,  with  handsome,  yel- 
lowish-green foliage. 

The  BALSAM  POPLAR  (P.  lalsamifera)  is  a  coarse,  rank 
grower  of  erect  habit,  with  large,  shiny  leaves;  it  sprouts, 
B.  There  are  several  handsome  Weeping  Poplars : 
namely,  the  Weeping,  Large  American  Aspen  (P.  grandi- 
dentata  penduld),  a  beautiful  and  very  rapid  grower,  with 
slender  branches  that  droop  gracefully  to  the  ground; 
valuable,  B.  Athenian  Weeping  Poplar  (P.  Grcsca  pen- 
duld), a  fine,  weeping  tree,  with  dark-colored  catkins ; 
and  the  Parasol  de  St.  Julien,  a  new  drooping  variety  from 
France.  The  American  Aspen  (P.  tremuloides)  is  a  spe- 


36  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

oies  with  long,  slender  leaf-stalks,  which  cause  the  leaves 
to  quiver  in  the  slightest  breeze. 

THE  TULIP  TREE.  Liriodendron.  A. 
The  TULIP  TREE  (L.  Tulipiferd)  is  a  beautiful  tree 
wherever  it  grows  and  flowers  well.  The  trunk  is 
straight,  covered  with  grayish-brown  bark  ;  leaves  round- 
ish, ovate,  with  two  lobes  near  the  base,  and  two  at  the 
apex,  which  appears  as  if  cut  off,  of  a  charming  light-green 
tint,  and  smooth.  The  flowers  resemble  single  tulips. 
It  requires  a  deep,  loamy  soil,  and  must  be  transplanted 
while  young.  The  Gold-margined-leaved  Tulip  Tree  is 
a  recent  introduction,  with  most  beautifully  margined 
leaves.  May  prove  tender  in  the  North. 

THE  HICKORIES  AND  OTHER  NUT-BEARING  TREES.     A.  B. 

The  COMMON  HICKORY,  or  SHELL  BARK  (Carya  alia), 
is  an  ornamental  tree  of  noble  dimensions  and  a  spread- 
ing habit,  with  the  branches  starting  low  down;  excellent 
where  the  space  admits.  Handsome  compound  leaves  of 
a  rich,  glossy  green — darker  than  those  of  most  other  trees 
— and  frequently  measure  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  long 
on  vigorous  specimens. 

The  BLACK  WALNUT  (Juglans  nigra)  is  one  of  the 
grandest  and  most  massive  of  trees,  and  well  suited  for 
embellishing  large  grounds.  The  bark  is  very  dark  in 
color,  and  deeply  furrowed  ;  leaves  compound,  with  thir- 
teen to  seventeen  leaflets,  and  exceedingly  handsome,  A. 

The  BUTTERNUT  (J.  cinerea)  is  another  fine  ornament- 
al tree,  somewhat  resembling  the  last,  but  rarely  as  hand- 
some, B. 

The  EUROPEAN  WALNUT,  or  MADEIRA  NUT  (J.  regia), 
forms  a  fine,  well-balanced  tree,  thickly  clad  with  warm, 
russet-lined  foliage,  A.  There  is  also  a  Cut-leaved  variety 
(var.  lacinatd)  and  a  Dwarf  variety  (var.  praeparturicns) 
of  this. 


DECIDUOUS   TUBES   AND   SHRUBS.  37 

THE   PLANE,  OR   BUTTONWOOD.      PltttanUS.     A. 

In  Paris  and  other  large  European  cities,  our  native 
AMERICAN  PLANE,  or  BUTTONWOOD  (P.  occidentalis), 
is  esteemed  above  all  other  trees  for  street  planting,  but, 
strange  as  it  may  seem,  in  this,  its  native  country,  it 
suffers  badly  in  most  places  from  a  fungus  which  destroys 
the  young  growth. 

The  ORIENTAL  PLANE  (P.  orientalis)  is  less  liable  .to 
the  same  trouble,  though  not  free  from  it.  As  they  are 
of  great  value,  they  are  nevertheless  worthy  of  trial  by 
planters. 

THE  MAPLE.    Acer  and  Negundo.   A-F. 

The  Maples,  in  their  many  species  and  varieties,  possess 
a  value  as  ornamental  trees  of  the  very  highest  order. 
The  trees  are  of  free,  in  some  kinds  of  rapid  growth,  and 
healthy ;  they  are  adapted  to  all  soils,  and  are  seldom 
troubled  by  insects.  Their  foliage  is  handsome,  appears 
early,  and  goes  out  in  the  fall,  in  various  gorgeous  tints. 
Some  maples  have  richly-colored  leaves  all  through  the 
season,  and  the  leaves  of  others  are  of  singular  shape, 
while  a  few  bear  attractive  blossoms. 

The  SUGAR  MAPLE  (A.  saccharinum)  is  a  well-known 
native  species,  admirable  in  form,  foliage,  and  habit.  It 
is  one  of  the  best  for  street  and  lawn-planting,  A.  The 
Black  Sugar  Maple  (var.  nigrutri),  a  variety  of  the  last, 
has  darker  leaves,  with  their  lobes  more  rounded,  A. 

The  RED,  or  SWAMP  MAPLE  (A.  rubrum),  also  a  native, 
is  noted  in  early  spring  for  its  showy,  red  blossoms,  and 
in  autumn  for  the  extreme  brilliancy  of  its  foliage,  B. 
There  is  a  fine  dwarf  form  of  this,  called  the  Dwarf 
Scarlet  Maple  (var.  fulgens  of  some,  and  var.  tomentosum 
of  other  authors. ) 

The  NORWAY  MAPLE  ( A.  platanoides)  is  a  tree  of  spread- 
ing, rounded  form,  broad,  shining  leaves,  producing  dense 


38  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

shade,  and  of  free  growth ;  is  worthy  a  place  in  every 
roomy  garden,^.  The  Curled-leaf  Maple  (var.ctictillatiim) 
is  a  variety  of  the  Norway,  with  leaves  more  or  less  curled, 
giving  the  tree  a  curious  appearance.  There  are,  at  least, 
three  cut-leaved  varieties  of  this  species,  all  valuable; 
the  Cut-leaved  Norway  Maple  (var.  dissectum),  has  its 
leaves  so  deeply  cut  as  to  almost  divide  them  into  three 
parts;  the  Eagle-claw  Maple  (var.  laciniatum),  with 
leaves  deeply  cut,  pointed  and  curled ;  and  the  Lorberg's, 
Norway  Maple  (var.  Lorbergii),  which  has  very  deeply  cut 
leaves,  of  a  bright,  reddish  hue  when  young  ;  Schwerdler's 
Norway  Maple  (var.  Schicerdlerii)  is  a  promising  new  vari- 
ety, with  leaves  that  are  richly  variegated  in  the  spring 
with  purple  and  crimson. 

The  SILVER-LEAVED  MAPLE  (A.  dasycarpum),  gives  a 
number  of  valuable  varieties,  mostly  of  open,  slender 
growth.  The  tree  is  a  rapid  grower,  the  foliage  bright- 
green  above  and  silvery  white  beneath.  New  Cut-leaved 
Silver  Maple  (var.  heterophyllum  laciniatum),  very  distinct 
and  fine;  somewhat  inclined  to  "sport,"  C.  Wagner's  Cut- 
leaved  Silver  Maple  (var.  Wagneri),  of  great  value  ;  droop- 
ing gracefully,  and  with  deeply  dissected  leaves.  The 
Crisp-leaved  Silver  Maple  (var.  crispum  novum),  with 
leaves  that  are  deeply-cut  as  well  as  curled,  rendering  the 
tree  singularly  attractive. 

The  EUROPEAN  SYCAMORE  MAPLE  (A.  Pseudo-Plata- 
nus)  is  a  handsome,  strong-growing  tree,  with  large  leaves, 
which  have  long,  reddish  leaf  stalks.  Valuable  for  the 
sea-shore  and  exposed  places,  as  it  will  grow  erect  where 
the  winds  would  cause  other  trees  to  lean,  A.r  Douglas's 
Sycamore  Maple  (var.  Douglasi)  has  smaller  and  more 
pointed  leaves  than  the  type.  There  are  two  beautiful 
varieties,  with  peculiar  leaf  coloration,  that  render  them 
valuable  for  creating  contrasts  of  foliage  in  plantations. 
The  Golden-leaved  Sycamore  Maple  (var.  aureo-variegata), 
a  handsome  ornamental  tree,  with  the  leaves  distinctly 


DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND   SHRUBS.  39 

and  permanently  marked  with  yellow,  B,  and  the  Purple- 
leaved  Sycamore  Maple  (var.  purpurea),  with  greenish- 
purple  foliage,  the  under  side  of  which  is  singularly  hand- 
some. The  Velvety  Maple  (var.  velutinum)  is  a  rapid- 
growing  form,  with  large,  dark-green,  five-lobed  leaves. 

In  recent  years  the  Maples,  with  richly-colored  leaves 
introduced  from  Japan,  have  attracted  much  attention. 
At  first  the  indications  seemed  to  be  against  their  hardi- 
ness, but  as  the  trees  attain  more  age,  and  as  the  stock  is 
propagated  in  this  country,  they  appear  to  be  more  hardy, 
and  they  will  undoubtedly  prove  valuable  under  careful 
culture.  Thus  far,  the  wonderfully  rich  colors  of  the 
leaves  have  faded  in  summer,  but  even  this  defect  prom- 
ises to  be  remedied  as  the  trees  grow  older.  The  species 
itself,  Acer  poly morphum,  is  very  showy  and  of  compara- 
tively free  growth;  it  is  the  parent  of  many  varieties,  of 
which  the  following  five  are  perhaps  the  best  of  the  many 
Japanese  Maples  thus  far  introduced  : — The  Blood-red- 
leaved  Japanese  Maple  (var.  sanguimum),  with  purple 
or  rich  red  leaves  ;  the  Dark  Purple-leaved  Japanese 
Maple  (var.  atropurpureum),  of  deep-claret  tint ;  leaves 
very  deeply  cut ;  Various-colored  Japanese  Maple  (var. 
versicolor),  of  free  growth,  as  compared  with  others,  and 
picturesquely  spotted  with  white,  pink,  and  green  ;  Cut- 
leaved  Purple  Japanese  Maple  (var.  dissectum),  beauti- 
ful rose-colored  leaves  and  branches  in  the  new  growth, 
changing  to  deep  purple  later;  leaves  delicately-cut,  giv- 
ing them  a  fern-like  appearance  ;  of  dwarf,  weeping  and 
graceful  form  ;  Netted-leaved  Japanese  Maple  (var.  reti- 
culatum),  dceply-lobed,  greenish-whitish  leaves,  traversed 
by  a  network  of  light,  yellowish  veins.  There  is  also  a 
variety  with  whitish  leaves.  There  are  two  other  distinct 
Japanese  Maples  worthy  of  mention  : 

The  RED  COLCHICUM  MAPLE  (A.  Colchicum  rubrum), 
of  bright,  crimson  color  in  the  young  leaves  and  wood; 
rather  tender;  and  the 


40  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

PALMATE-LEAVED  MAPLE  (A.  palmatum),  with  small 
leaves,  having  reddish  leaf-stalks  and  veins,  the  tree  in 
time  assuming  a  weeping  form. 

The  ENGLISH,  or  CORK-BARKED  MAPLE  (A.  campestre), 
is  a  remarkably  handsome,  slow-growing  tree  of  com- 
pact habit,  with  very  dark -green  leaves;  sometimes  grown 
in  a  shrub-like  form. 

The  LARGE-LEAVED  MAPLE  (A.  macrophyUum)  is  a 
stately  tree  with  immense  leaves,  but  rather  tender  in 
the  North  while  young. 

STRIPED  MAPLE  (A.  Pennsylvanicum)  is  an  elegant 
tree  with  light-green  foliage  and  distinctly  striped  bark. 

TARTARIAN  MAPLE  (A.  Tartaricum)  is  of  irregular 
habit,  but  making  a  handsome  tree,  with  small,  light- 
green  leaves  and  light-colored,  smooth  bark.  • 

The  Ash-leaved  Maple  belongs  in  a  distinct  genus 
(Negundo),  but  closely  related  to  the  common  Maple. 
ASH-LEAVED  MAPLE,  or  BOX-ELDER  (Negundo  aceroides), 
is  of  rapid  growth,  with  small,  light-green  foliage,  resem- 
bling that  of  the  Ash,  and  Maple-like  fruit.  The  bark 
on  the  young  wood  is  greenish-yellow,  C.  Curled  Ash- 
leaved  Maple  (var.  crispum),  has  the  foliage  curled  and 
somewhat  cut.  Variegated  Ash-leaved  Maple  (var.foliis 
argenteis  variegalis),  a  variety  distinctly  marked  with 
white,  more  so,  perhaps,  than  any  other  white-leaved  tree 
in  cultivation.  Extensively  used  in  French  gardens,  but 
liable  to  be  sun-burned  here,  F. 

THE  BEECH.     Fagus.    A.  C. 

The  Beeches  are  highly  esteemed,  picturesque  trees, 
with  rich,  glossy  leaves  and  smooth  bark  which,  in  some, 
is  of  a  very  light  color.  The  light  and  shade  of  the  ver- 
dure is  usually  disposed  horizontally,  giving  to  the  trees 
a  distinct  appearance.  They  prefer  light,  loamy  soils; 
the  roots  keep  near  the  surface,  on  which  account  grass 


DECIDUOUS   TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  41 

does  not  thrive  well  under  them,  unless  it  is  kept  well 
watered.  All  the  Beeches  can  be  kept  closely  pruned,  to 
adapt  them  to  small  grounds,  or  for  use  as  hedges. 

The  AMERICAN  BEECH  (F.  ferruginea)  is  an  elegant 
tree  of  fine  form,  with  rich  leaves,  and  smooth,  light- 
colored  bark,  B. 

The  EUROPEAN  BEECH  (F.  sylvatica)  is  very  ornament- 
al, with  spreading  branches,  which  in  time  often  droop 
gracefully  almost  to  the  ground;  leaves  thin,  ovate,  and 
obscurely  toothed,  A.  Among  the  fine  varieties  that 
have  sprung  from  the  European  Beech,  those  with  purple 
leaves  stand  very  high,  as  being  the  most  attractive 
trees  with  purple  foliaga  in  cultivation. 

The  COMMON  PURPLE-LEAVED  BEECH  (var.  purpurea) 
has  dark,  reddish-purple  foliage  in  the  spring,  changing  to 
crimson  and  then  to  purplish-green  during  the  season,  B. 
Rivers'  Purple-leaved  Beech  (var.  purpurea  Riversii)  is 
darker  and  more  effective  than  the  common  purple-leaved 
variety,  B.  Large-leaved  Purple  Beech  (var.  purpurea 
major)  is  a  variety  with  large,  shining,  dark-purple  leaves, 
which  are  exceedingly  rich  and  effective,  C.  The  Copper- 
colored  Beech  (var.  cuprea)  resembles  the  Common  Purple 
Beech  somewhat,  but  has  lighter-colored  leaves,  with 
darker-colored  young  shoots.  Another  variegated  Beech, 
widely  different  in  the  color  of  its  leaves  from  these  de- 
scribed, and  one  that  contrasts  markedly  with  them,  is 
the  Golden  Variegated  Beech  (var.  aurea  variegata),  with 
leaves  deeply  margined  with  yellow,  rendering  the  tree 
very  distinct  and  handsome.  Among  other  valuable  sorts 
belonging  to  the  European,  are  the  Weeping  Beech  (var. 
pendula),  a  most  picturesque  tree,  with  long,  tortuous 
branches,  upon  which  the  foliage  is  apparently  piled  in 
masses;  the  tree  often  seems  to  be  deformed  when  young, 
but  in  time  becomes  very  ornamental,  B;  the  Broad- 
leaved  Beecli  (var.  macrophytta),  of  vigorous  habit,  with 


42  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

large,  handsome  foliage,  C;  the  Cut-leaved  Beech  (var. 
lacinata),  of  medium  size,  compact,  pyramidal  form,  and 
possessing  great  elegance,  B;  the  Fern-leaved  Beech  (var. 
aspleniifolia),  somewhat  resembling  the  last,  but  more 
rounded  in  form,  and  with  fern-like  leaves,  delicately  cut, 


Fig.  3.—  CATATJPA  BIGNONIOIDES. 

B ;  the  Crested-leaved  Beech  (var.  cristata),  a  curious 
variety,  with  small,  curled  leaves,  not  remarkable  for 
beauty. 

THE  CATALPA.     Ccitalpa.   A-E. 
Trees  at  maturity  of  different   sizes,  conspicuous  on 
account  of  their  large  leaves  of  a  soft  hue,  with  showy 


DECIDUOUS  TKEES   AND  SHRUBS.  43 

flowers,  which  are  followed  by  long  seed  pods  which  often 
hang  until  spring ;  noted  for  the  rapid  growth  of  the 
large  native  kinds. 

The  COMMON  CATALPA,  or  INDIAN  BEAN  (C.  Ugnoni- 
oides,  sometimes  called  C.  sy  ring  af olio),  is  a  native  of 
the  Southern  States,  but  does  well  in  some  parts  of  the 
North  if  protected  when  young;  leaves  large,  showy, 
heart-shaped,  presenting  a  peculiar,  tropical  appearance; 
flowers  white,  tinged  with  purple  and  yellow,  A.  The 
Golden  Catalpa  (var.  aurea)  somewhat  resembles  the 
common  species,  but  with  the  young  leaves  tinged  with 
gold  for  a  time.  There  is  a  Dwarf  American  Catalpa 
(var.  nana),  resembling  most  of  the  others,  but  of  a  bushy 
growth,  and  attractive,  E. 

The  HARDY  CATALPA  (G.  spedosa),  while  less  remark- 
able in  appearance  than  the  common,  is  hardier,  and 
flowers  earlier,  A, 

Other  dwarf  kinds  have  been  introduced  from  Asia, 
which  are  valuable.  One  of  these  is  C.  Ecempferi,  and 
another  C.  Bungei,  but  confusion  prevails  at  present  as 
to  their  identity. 

THE  LARCH.     Larix.   A. 

The  Larches  are  cone-bearing  trees,  without  being 
"evergreens,"  like  the  Spruces,  Pines,  and  most  other 
conifers.  They  mainly  have  a  peculiar  grace  and  beauty, 
with  delicate,  soft  foliage,  that  contrasts  well  with  that 
of  most  other  trees  and  shrubs.  They  are  valuable  for 
adding  to  the  effect  and  variety  of  grounds,  and  are 
adapted  to  all  soils,  but  should  be  planted  very  early  in 
the  spring,  or  in  the  fall. 

The  EUROPEAN  LARCH  (L.  Eyropasa)  is  of  erect  form, 
tapering  very  delicately  ;  is  the  kind  most  commonly 
planted,  A.  There  are  several  desirable  variations  :  the 
Glaucous  European  Larch  (var.  glauca),  of  fine  appear- 
ance ;  and  the  Weeping  European  Larch  (var.  pcndula), 


44  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

the  branches  of  which  assume  most  grotesque  forms,  and 
being  clothed  with  fine  glaucous  foliage,  the  tree  has  a 
very  picturesque  appearance. 

The  AMERICAN  LARCH,  TAMARACK  and  HACKMATACK 
(L.  Americana),  is  a  tall,  pyramidal  tree,  with  a  very 
slender  trunk  ;  less  desirable  than  the  European  species. 

The  JAPAN  LARCH  (L.  leptolepis)  is  a  slender-grow- 
ing kind,  with  reddish-brown  shoots,  and  leaves  that 
turn  to  a  rich  yellow  in  the  autumn. 

THE  ASH.     Fraxinus.     A-D. 

While  some  of  the  Ashes  do  not  rank  high  as  orna- 
mental trees,  there  are  a  number  of  most  excellent  species 
and  varieties  which  are  entitled  to  be  classed  among  the 
finest  trees  in  cultivation. 

The  AMERICAN  WHITE  ASH  (F.  Americana)  is  a  fair 
shade  tree,  thriving  in  almost  any  location,  with  broad, 
round  head,  straight,  clean  trunk  and  compound  pinnate 
leaves,  A.  Bosc's  Ash  (var.  Boscii)  is  a  fine  and  dis- 
tinct American  variety  with  dark,  glossy  foliage,  B. 
There  are  some  valuable  variegated  sorts,  among  which 
are  the  Gold  Spotted-leaved  Ash  (var.  punctata),  the 
leaves  of  which  are  strongly  marked,  and  blotched  with 
golden  yellsw,  giving  the  tree  a  very  effective  appearance 
— in  this  respect  exceeding  all  other  trees  with  golden- 
hued  foliage.  The  Aucuba-leaved  Ash  (var.  aucubcefolia), 
with  distinct  splashes  and  spots  of  yellow  on  the  leaves, 
remaining  through  the  season,  C.  The  Walnut-leaved 
Ash  (var.  juglandifolia)  strongly  resembles  the  walnut 
in  the  form  of  leaves  ;  valuable  only  in  large  collections, 
B.  The  Cloth-like-leaved  Ash  (var.  pannosa),  a  native 
of  the  Carolinas,  has  beautiful  foliage,  somewhat  re- 
sembling that  of  Bosc's  Ash  but  larger,  B.  Rufous- 
haired  Ash  (var.  rufa)  is  a  distinct  and  ornamental 
variety,  of  upright  habit  and  dark  green  leaves,  B.  The 


DECIDUOUS   TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  45 

Showy  Ash  (var.  spectabilis)  has  large,  glossy,  leathery 
leaves,  of  dark  green  color. 

The  EUROPEAN  ASH  (F.  excelsior)  is  a  spreading  tree, 
with  a  handsome  head,  a  short  thick  trunk  and  beautiful 
pinnate  leaves,  B.  There  are  two  pendulous  varieties, 
the  Weeping  European  Ash  (var.  pendula),  a  valuable, 
rapid  grower,  that  may  serve  as  an  arbor  on  the  lawn,  Cr; 
and  the  Golden-barked  Weeping  Ash  (var.  aureapendula), 
an  elegant  -but  quite  tender  tree,  with  bark  as  yellow  as 
gold,  (7.  The  common  Golden-barked  Ash  (var.  aurea) 
is  also  a  conspicuous  trae  on  account  of  its  yellow  bark, 
twisted  branches  and  fine  foliage,  and  it  is  hardier  than 
the  last  named,  O.  The  varieties  with  peculiar  leaf 
forms  are  interesting :  Dwarf  Crisp-leaved  Ash  (var. 
atrovirens),  with  dark  green,  curled  foliage,  arranged 
closely  along  the  stem,  I).  Hooded-leaved  Ash  (var. 
cucullata),  with  singularly  curled  and  twisted  leaves,  of 
pyramidal  growth,  C.  Dwarf  Globe-headed  Ash  (var. 
globosa),  a  pretty  round-headed  tree  when  worked  six  or 
eight  feet  high,  with  small  myrtle-like  leaves,  D. 
Willow-like-leaved  Ash  (var.  saHcifolia),  with  narrow 
willow-like  leaflets  of  pleasing  habit,  D.  Another  variety 
called  scolopendrifolia  has  leaflets  as  narrow  as  grass 
blades,  and  which  droop  curiously,  D.  The  Single- 
leaved  Ash  (var.  monopTiylla)  is  a  fine  tree,  with  broad 
leaves,  B.  There  is  a  beautiful  variety  of  the  Single- 
leaved  (var.  monopJiylla  laciniata)  in  which  the  margins  of 
the  leaves  are  finely  cut.  The  Variegated-leaved  Ash  (var. 
concavcefolia  variegata)  is  said  to  be  striking  on  account 
of  its  silvery  white  young  leaves,  tinged  with  pink,  chang- 
ing later  to  light  green. 

The  FLOWERING  ASH  (F.  Ornus)  is  a  small  tree  which 
produces  a  profusion  of  pale  or  greenish- white  flowers  in 
clusters  on  the  terminal  branches  in  spring,  on  which 
account  it  is  valuable  for  ornament,  C.  There  are  sev- 


46  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

eral  Japanese  Ashes  offered,  but  which  it  is  feared  are 
too  tender  to  become  generally  useful. 

THE    LINDEN,   BASSWOOD,    OR  LIME.       TillO.      A-B. 

Generally  graceful,  handsome  trees  of  good  size,  with 
heart-shaped,  serrate  leaves,  and  producing  heavy  shade. 
The  flowers,  which  are  inconspicuous,  are  in  some  species 
much  sought  by  the  honey  bee. 

The  AMERICAN  LINDEN  OR  BASSWOOD  (T.  Americana) 
is  a  native  of  rapid  growth,  with  very  large  leaves  and 
fragrant  flowers,  A.  The  Broad-leaved  Basswood  (var. 
macrophylla)  is  less  common,  and  has  yet  larger  leaves 
than  the  last.  Both  are  desirable  in  large  grounds.  The 
European  Linden  and  its  varieties  are  quite  distinct  in 
appearance. 

The  common  EUROPEAN  LINDEN  (T.  Europed)  is 
well  shaped,  inclined  to  be  pyramidal  in  form,  thriving 
in  almost  any  soil,  and  well  adapted  for  lawns  and 
avenues  ;  leaves  are  smaller  and  darker  than  those  of  the 
American  Linden,  A.  European  White-leaved  Linden 
(var.  alba)  is  a  handsome,  dense-growing  variety,  the 
leaves  of  which  are  downy  beneath  and  smooth  above, 
giving  the  tree  a  striking  appearance,  and  constrasting 
strongly  with  other  kinds.  There  is  also  the  White- 
leaved  Weeping  Linden  (var.  alba-pendula),  a  valuable 
tree  with  large  leaves  and  slender  branches  that  incline 
to  droop,  B.  The  Cut  or  Fern- leaved  Linden  (var. 
laciniata)  is  a  tree  of  good  habit  with  rather  small  leaves 
that  are  deeply  cut  and  twisted,  B.  Another  cut-leaved 
variety  is  the  Eed  Cut-leaved  Linden  (var.  laciniata  rubra), 
the  young  shoots  of  which  are  of  a  bright  rose  color. 
The  Broad-leaved  Linden  (var.  platyphylla),  with  mas- 
sive leaves  ;  the  Small-leaved  Linden  (var.  microphylla) 
with  leaves  quite  the  reverse  of  the  last  as  to  size  ;  and 
the  Grape-leaved  Linden  (var.  vitifolia),  with  deeply- 


DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND  SHRUBS.  47 

lobed  leaves,  are  all  valuable.  Among  the  European 
Lindens  are  some  with  attractive  bark  as  follows  : 
Pyramidal  Linden  (var.  pyramidalis),  and  Red-twigged 
Linden  (var.  rubra),  with  young  branches  of  reddish 
color  ;  and  the  Yellow-twigged  Linden  (var.  sulphured), 
the  Golden  Broad-leaved  Linden  (v&t.  platyphylla  aurea), 
and  the  Hairy-styled  Linden  (var.  dasystyla),  with 
golden-hued  bark,  showy  in  winter. 

The  JAPAN  LINDEN  (T.  cordata)  is  yet  rare,  it  is  of 
medium  size,  and  has  heart-shaped  leaves. 

THE  WILLOW.     Salix.     A.  D. 

The  Willow  is  a  very  large  genus,  having  among  its 
species  many  fine  ornamental  trees.  Most  of  them  are 
easily  transplanted,  thrive  in  any  soil,  and  are  of  rapid 
growth. 

The  BABYLONIAN  OR  WEEPING  WILLOW  (8.  Baby- 
lonica)  is  a  very  common  species,  a  graceful  tree  of  large 
size,  its  fresh,  bright  green,  wavy  foliage  making  it  at- 
tractive, particularly  in  conjunction  with  water  scenery, 
A.  A  variety  of  this  from  France  (var.  Salamonii)  is 
more  upright  in  habit,  while  retaining  the  weeping 
style  of  growth. 

The  GOLDEN  WILLOW  (8.  alba  var.  vitellind)  is  a  dis- 
tinct variety  of  the  White  Willow,  with  yellow  bark,  very 
attractive  both  in  summer  and  winter,  B. 

The  GOAT  WILLOW  (S.  Caprea),  and  some  of  its  varie- 
ties are  valuable  ;  the  common  kind  being  a  medium- 
sized  tree  of  spreading  form  with  broad  leaves,  C.  The 
excellent,  and  well-known  Kilmarnock  Weeping  Willow 
is  a  variety  of  the  last  (var.  pendula),  when  grafted  low 
this  forms  a  fountain-like  tree  of  great  beauty,  with  the 
branches  reaching  to  the  ground ;  when  grafted  six  or 
eight  feet  high,  it  forms  an  exceedingly  graceful  tree  of 
umbrella  shape  ;  its  foliage  is  glossy ;  habit  vigorous, 


48  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

thriving  in  any  soil ;  excellent  for  small  grounds,  D. 
Three-Colored  Goat  Willow  (var.  tricolor),  has  blotched 
foliage  of  three  distinct  colors,  it  is  usually  grafted  from 
five  to  seven  feet  high,  when  it  forms  a  handsome,  small, 
round-headed  tree,  D. 

The  AMERICAN  WEEPING  OR  FOUNTAIN  WILLOW 
(S.  purpurea-pendula),  a  variety  of  an  European  species, 
is  a  small,  slender-growing  willow  of  European  origin, 
which  forms  a  remarkably  handsome  weeping  tree  when 
grafted  on  a  large  stem,  D. 

The  ROSEMARY-LEAVED  WILLOW  (S.  rosmarimfolia), 
with  small,  silvery  leaves  so  arranged  on  the  branches  as 
to  give  them  a  feathery  appearance,  D, 

The  ROYAL  WILLOW  (S.  regalis),  is  an  elegant  tree  with 
silvery  leaves,  which  are  larger  than  those  of  the  last 
named,  both  are  of  great  value  for  contrasting  with 
other  trees,  on  account  of  their  whitish  appearance  and 
handsome  growth,  D. 

The  LAUREL-LEAVED  WILLOW  (S.  laurifolia),  and  the 
Shiny-leaved  Willow  (S.  lucida),  are  both  rapid  growing 
trees,  usually  kept  in  a  bush  form,  both  have  dark,  glossy 
leaves ;  those  of  the  former  species  being  the  largest,  C. 

Other  Willows  worthy  of  note,  are  the  Silky  Weeping 
Willow  (S.  sericea  pendula),  with  small  leaves  and  long, 
slender  branches  ;  Wolsey's  Weeping  Willow  (S.  Wolsey- 
anapendula),  a  small  leaved,  dwarf  species  ;  Wisconsin 
Weeping  Willow,  highly  recommended  in  the  West ;  Ja- 
pan Weeping  Willow  (S.  Japonica  penduld),  Palm-leaved 
Willow  (S.  palmcefolia) ,  a  distinct-red  stemmed  tree 
with  large  leaves,  and  the  Ring-leaved  Willow  (S.  Baby- 
lonica,  var.  annularis),  a  useful  variety  of  the  Weeping 
Willow,  the  leaves  of  which  are  curiously  curled. 

THE   MAIDEN-HAIR    OR    GINKGO.       Ginkgo.      A. 

The  common  species  ( G.  adiantifolia),  an  introduction 
from  Japan,  is  a  remarkable  and  elegant  tree ;  the  leaves 


DECIDUOUS   TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  49 

resemble  in  shape  the  fronds  of  the  Maiden-hair  ferns 
(Adiantum),  but  are  about  three  inches  broad.  The 
growth  is  naturally  rapid  and  upright,  but  it  can  be 
trained  against  a  house  or  over  a  trellis  like  a  climber, 
and  in  this  way  presents  a  most  singular  appearance. 
It  is  hardy  as  far  north  as  Buffalo,  in  partially  sheltered 
situations.  There  is  a  Broad-leaved  Ginkgo  (var.  mac- 
rophylla),  with  leaves  somewhat  broader  than  those  of 
the  species,  and  a  Varigated-leaved  Ginkgo  (var.  variega- 
ta),  a  kind  that  sometimes  only  shows  variegation  in  the 
leaves.  The  genus  has  been  called  (Salisburia),  a  name 
which  must  give  way  to  the  older  Ginkgo. 

THE  MAGNOLIA.     Magnolia.     A.-E. 

Wherever  the  Magnolias  are  known  they  are  highly 
prized  as  ornamental  trees.  The  large-leaved,  native 
species  are  grand  in  their  foliage  and  produce  showy 
flowers  ;  while  the  Asiatic  and  hybrid  sorts  are  magnifi- 
cent when  in  flower.  They  may  be  planted  either  as  single 
specimens  or  in  open  groups  on  the  lawn  with  good  effect, 
and  they  contrast  well  with  evergreens.  One  drawback 
to  their  popularity  is  the  difficulty  of  transplanting  them. 
On  this  point  the  well-known  nurserymen,  Ellwanger  & 
Barry,  of  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  say:  "To  insure  success  in 
the  transplanting  they  should  be  moved  in  the  spring, 
never  in  the  fall,  and  the  Chinese  varieties  at  that  period 
when  they  are  coming  into  bloom,  and  consequently 
before  the  leaves  have  made  their  appearance.  Great 
care  should  be  exercised  in  their  removal,  the  fibrous  roots 
being  preserved  as  nearly  as  possible,  and  carefully  guarded 
from  any  exposure  to  wind  or  sun.  While  almost  any 
good  soil  is  sufficient  to  insure  their  growth,  they  succeed 
best  in  a  soil  which  is  warm,  rich,  and  dry."  Among  the 
native  species  which  may  be  named  as  valuable  are  the 

CUCUMBER  TREE  (M.  acuminata),  a  rapid,  upright 
grower,  reaching  size  A,  with  oblong-pointed  leaves,  often 
3 


50  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

nine  or  ten  inches  long  ;  bell-shaped,  greenish  yellow 
flowers;  the  fruit,  when  green,  resembling  a  cucumber. 

The  HEART-SHAPED  MAGNOLIA  (M.  cordata)  blooms 
usually  in  May  and  August,  producing  tulip-shaped  yel- 
low flowers ;  the  oval,  slightly  cordate  leaves  are  downy 
beneath,  E. 

UMBRELLA  MAGNOLIA  (M.  Umbrella),  a  rapid-growing 
tree,  with  immense,  long,  light-green  leaves;  creamy- white 
flowers,  which  are  often  a  foot  across,  D. 

GREAT-LEAVED  MAGNOLIA  (M.  macropliylla),  has  enor- 
mous leaves,  two  to  three  feet  long;  white,  bell-shaped 
flowers,  nine  or  ten  inches  across  ;  requires  protection  in 
the  North,  (7. 

EAR-LEAVED  MAGNOLIA  (M.  Fraseri),  leaves  eight  to 
twelve  inches  long,  with  ear-like  lobes  at  the  base;  the 
white  flowers  are  six  inches  across,  B. 

The  SWEET  BAT  ( M,  glaucd),  with  glossy  leaves,  whitish 
beneath  ;  flowers  pure  white,  very  fragrant ;  if  carefully 
trained  forms  a  beautiful  small  tree,  E.  D.  Long-leaved 
Sweet  Bay  (var.  longifolid),  is  a  variety  of  the  preceding, 
with  larger  leaves,  and  of  stronger  growth. 

GREAT  LAUREL  MAGNOLIA  (M.  grandiflora)  is  the 
Magnolia  of  the  Southern  States,  not  hardy  north  of 
Washington;  remarkable  for  its  large,  fragrant  flowers 
and  evergreen  leaves. 

The  Chinese  and  Japanese  Magnolias,  with  their  varie- 
ties and  hybrids,  are  the  kinds  noted  chiefly  for  their 
attractive  flowering  qualities. 

The  YULAN,  or  CHINESE  WHITE  MAGNOLIA  (M.  con- 
spicua),  has  bright,  obovate  leaves,  pure  white,  fragrant, 
medium-sized  flowers,  which  appear  before  the  leaves,  E. 

PURPLE  MAGNOLIA  (M.  purpurea)  resembles  the  last- 
named,  but  the  flowers  are  dark-purple  on  the  outside, 
and  white  within,  E. 


DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND   SHRUBS. 


51 


SLENDER-GROWING  MAGNOLIA  (var.  gracilis),  a  grace- 
ful and  finer  formed  variety  of  the  above,  with  a  more 
slender,  fastigiate  growth,  E. 

VERY  DARK-PURPLE  JAPAN  MAGNOLIA  (M.  atropur- 
purea),  has  the  darkest  flowers  of  all  the  Magnolias;  later 
in  bloom  than  the  Chinese,  E. 

HALL'S  JAPAN  MAGNOLIA  (M.  stellata),  a  very  early- 


Fig.  4.— MAGNOLIA  STELLATA. 

flowering  sort,  with  pure  white  flowers,  the  petals  arranged 
in  double  rows.  M.  hypoleuca  and  M.  parviflora,  are  com- 
paratively recent  introductions  of  promise. 

The  hybrids  produced  between  the  species  possess  high 


02  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

merits.  One  of  the  finest  and  hardiest  of  all  in  this  sec- 
tion of  Asiatic  Magnolias  is  SOULANGE'S  MAGNOLIA  (M. 
Soulangeand),  which  closely  resembles  the  White  Chinese; 
flowers  cup-shaped,  white  and  purple  ;  foliage  large  and 
massive,  C.  The  Showy-flowering  Magnolia  (M.  speciosa), 
differs  from  the  last-named  in  having  smaller  and  Eomo- 
what  paler  flowers,  but  producing  them  in  great  profusion, 
and  they  remain  longer  on  the  tree  than  those  of  any  other 
variety;  forms  a  conspicuous  specimen  tree,  C.  Norbert's 
Magnolia  (M.  Norbertiana),  resembles  Soulange's,  but  is 
lighter  colored.  Lenne's  Red-flowering  Magnolia  (M. 
Lennei),  very  large,  deep-reddish-purple  flowers,  and 
good-sized  showy  leaves,  0.  Thompson's  Magnolia  (var. 
Thompsoniana) ,  is  a  hybrid  between  the  American  Um- 
brella Magnolia  and  the  Sweet  Bay,  partaking  mostly  of 
the  character  of  the  latter ;  it  has  large  leaves ;  large, 
fragrant,  creamy-white  flowers,  but  it  is  tender  in  the 
North. 

DECIDUOUS  CYPRESS.     Taxodium.   A-0. 

The  several  trees  that  go  by  this  name,  are  conifers,  that 
shed  their  leaves  every  autumn  like  the  Larches.  They 
somewhat  resemble  the  Larches  in  form  of  growth  and 
the  small  size  of  their  leaves ;  but  are  less  hardy,  and 
thriving  only  in  protected  localities  in  the  North. 

The  DECIDUOUS  SWAMP  C YPRESS-(  Taxodium  distichum) 
is  a  stately  tree  of  the  Southern  States,  but  succeeds  in 
the  North  in  protected  places,  A.  There  is  a  variety, 
known  as  the  "Weeping  Deciduous  Cypress  (var.  pendulum] , 
which  is  a  fine  tree. 

The  CHINESE  WEEPING  DECIDUOUS  CYPRESS  (T.  Si- 
nense  pendulum  and  Glyptostrobus  pendulus  of  the  cata- 
logues), is  now,  by  the  best  authorities,  regarded  as  a  va- 
riety of  the  above.  It  is  a  beautiful,  perfectly  straight 
tree,  with  slightly  drooping,  horizontal  branches  and 
twisted  foliage  in  tufts;  sheds  its  lower  branches  with  age. 


DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND  SHRUBS.  53 

THE    KENTUCKY    COFFEE    TREE.      Gymnocladus    Cana- 
densis.     B. 

A  rapid-growing  native  tree,  with  charming,  feathery 
foliage,  of  twice-pinnate  leaves,  and  bark  that  is  singu- 
larly rough,  even  in  small  trees. 

THE  AILANTHUS.  Ailanthus  glandulosus.  B. 
A  rapid-growing  tree,  with  elegant,  long,  feathery  foli- 
age, exempt  from  all  diseases  and  from  nearly  all  insects. 
This  tree  may  be  employed  to  great  advantage  in  "sub- 
tropical gardening,"  by  cutting  it  down  to  the  ground  an- 
nually. Each  spring  a  vigorous  shoot  will  appear,  fur- 
nished with  most  luxuriant  leaves  of  a  tropical  aspect. 
The  sole  objection  to  the  tree  is  its  unpleasant  odor  at 
flowering  time.  This  may  be  avoided  by  propagating  (by 
means  of  root-cuttings)  from  those  trees  that  have  pistil- 
late, or  female,  flowers  only. 

THE    LTQUIDAMBAR,    OR    SWEET    GUM,    OR    BILSTED. 

Liquidanibar.    B. 

A  genus  of  but  two  species,  one  growing  in  tropical 
Asia,  and  the  other  in  our  own  country.  L.  Styraciflua 
is  a  desirable  tree,  somewhat  resembling  the  Maples  in 
the  shape  of  its  leaves,  and  the  Walnuts  in  the  rough- 
ness of  its  bark.  The  foliage,  when  bruised,  gives  off 
a  fragrant  odor.  In  autumn  the  tree  assumes  a  most 
brilliant  appearance,  the  leaves  turning  red  and  yellow. 

THE  YELLOW-WOOD.     Clddrastis  tinctoria.    B. 

This  is  generally  conceded  to  be  the  finest,  hardy-flow- 
ering tree  known.  In  June  its  white,  pea-like,  fragrant 
flowers  appear  in  long,  hanging  clusters  that  almost  cover 
the  tree,  giving  to  it  an  exceedingly  handsome  appearance. 
The  tree  is  of  medium  size,  with  a  peculiar  graceful  sweep 
to  the  branches.  Leaves  compound,  of  a  delightful  green, 
changing  to  yellow  in  the  autumn.  A  slow  grower  for 
several  years  after  planting.  The  tree  is  sometimes 


54  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

called  Virgilia,  a  name  that  by  priority  belongs  to  an 
African  tree. 

THE   PEPPERIDGE,    OR  SOUR  GUM.      NySSd.    B. 

This  is  a  picturesque  tree,  with  fine,  glossy  foliage, 
arranged  in  distinct,  horizontal  lines  of  light  and  shade, 
something  like  the  American  Beech,  and  turning  to 
deep  crimson  in  the  autumn.  The  northern  species  is 
N.  multiftora. 

THE   SOPHORA.       Sophora,     B-D. 

There  are  two  Sophoras  grown  for  ornament,  namely, 
the  common  JAPAN  SOPHORA  (8.  Japonica),  and  the 
WEEPING  SOPHORA  (var.  pendula),  both  of  which  bear  a 
resemblance  in  delicacy  of  leaf  and  flowers  to  the 
Eobinias,  or  Locusts.  The  former  is  a  round-headed, 
upright  grower  of  much  beauty,  producing  in  summer 
small,  cream-colored  flowers  in  racemes,  B.  The  latter 
is  naturally  a  strong-growing,  trailing  shrub,  but  if 
grafted  on  the  common  kind  at  seven  or  twelve  feet  high, 
forms  a  small  weeping  tree  of  picturesque  appearance. 
The  young  branches  of  both  are  green,  and  singularly 
contorted.  They  should  be  planted  on  well  drained  soil, 
and  only  in  sheltered  places  throughout  the  North. 

THE   ALDER.       AlnUS.       B. 

A  genus  of  rapid  growing  trees,  especially  valuable  for 
planting  in  moist  places,  although  all  do  well  on  dry 
land.  While  some  possess  but  little  beauty,  others  are 
hardly  excelled  in  attractiveness  for  lawn  decoration. 
Among  valuable  of  the  Alders  are  : 

The  EUROPEAN  ALDER  (A.  glutinosa),  with  showy, 
roundish  foliage,  B.  Of  this  there  are  three  cut-leaved 
varieties  known  respectively  as  the  Imperial  Cut-leaved 
Alder  (var.  laciniata  imperialis),  a  stately  tree  of  vigor- 
ous and  graceful  growth,  and  large  deeply-cut  leaves, 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  55 

very  elegant  for  the  lawn,  B.  The  Common  Cut-leaved 
Alder  (var.  laciniatd),  less  attractive  than  the  last ;  and 
the  Hawthorn-leaved  Alder.  There  are  also  the  Oak- 
leaved  Alder  (var.  querdfolia),  and  the  Eed-leaved  Alder 
(var.  rubronervis),  the  latter  having  large  leaves  on  strik- 
ing red  leaf-stalks. 

The  HOARY  OR  SPECKLED  ALDER  (A.  incana)  is  a  dis- 
tinct native  species  of  vigorous  growth.  Its  leaves  are 
broad,  somewhat  toothed,  and  whitish  underneath.  A 
cut-leaved  variety  of  this  (var.  laciniata)  makes  a  hand- 
some tree,  with  its  broad,  deeply-cut  leaves. 

The  LINDEN-LEAVED  ALDER  (A.  tiliacea)  is  a  fine 
kind,  with  large,  deep-green,  hearted-shaped,  glossy 
leaves.  There  are  also  several  Japanese  species  in  culti- 
vation. 

THE   MULBERRY.       MorUS.       B,    C. 

Trees  mostly  with  large,  shining  leaves,  that  have  a 
singularly  fresh  and  luxuriant  appearance,  even  in  the 
dryest  of  seasons,  on  which  account  they  are  favorites 
wherever  they  do  well.  Unfortunately  the  trees  are  apt 
to  take  on  a  bad,  open  style  of  growth  some  years  after 
planting,  which  greatly  mars  their  beauty.  Some  pro- 
duce edible  fruit. 

The  RED  MULBERRY  (Morus  rubra)  is  an  American 
species  with  large,  luxuriant,  heart-shaped,  rarely-lobed 
leaves. 

The  WHITE  MULBERRY  (M.  alba)  is  more  slender,  and 
has  smaller  leaves  than  the  Red ;  it  is  grown  as  food 
for  silk  worms.  Fruit  pinkish-white,  C.  There  is  a 
variety  of  the  last  with  larger  leaves,  sweeter  and  darker 
fruit,  and  of  a  compact,  pyramidal  habit,  called  var. 
fastigiata.  Downing's  Ever-bearing  Mulberry  is  a  fine 
variety,  yielding  delicious  fruit,  B. 

Several  Asiatic  species  are  also  grown,  such  as  the 
Black  Mulberry  (Morus  nigra),  of  moderate  growth. 


56  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

Japan  Mulberry  (M.  ToTcwa),  a  stronger  grower  than  the 
last,  with  large,  shining  leaves,  often  curled  and  crimped 
when  developed. 

PAPER  MULBERRY.     Broussonctia. 

The  PAPER  MULBERRY  (B.  papyriferd)  is  so  called  be- 
cause the  Japanese  and  other  orientals  make  a  substitute 
for  paper  from  its  inner  bark.  The  species  and  its 
varieties  are  handsome,  small-sized  trees,  of  rapid  growth, 
with  smaller  leaves  than  those  of  the  common  Mulberries. 
A  little  tender  north  of  Pennsylvania,  C. 

THE  PAULOWNTA.     Paulownio,  imperiolis.     B. 

This,  also  known  as  the  Empress  Tree,  presents  a 
most  striking  appearance  under  favorable  circumstances. 
It  has  immense  leaves,  a  foot  or  more  across,  and  beauti- 
ful, gloxinia-like  flowers,  in  upright  panicles  in  May. 
Being  somewhat  tender  in  the  North  when  young,  and 
the  wood  becoming  brittle  and  easily  broken  by  winds 
when  old,  the  tree  should  be  planted  in  a  partially 
sheltered  place,  and  if  the  soil  is  poor,  the  growth  will 
be  the  finer  for  it.  Suitable  for  the  sub-tropical  garden, 
with  annual  cutting  down. 

THE  BIRCH.     Bctula.     B.  C. 

The  Birches  possess  a  grace  and  elegance  in  their  light, 
airy  foliage,  and  slender,  clean,  often  white,  branches, 
that  is  without  equal  among  trees.  Most  of  them  are 
specially  valuable  in  small  places  where  large  shade  trees 
are  objectionable,  but  where  some  tree  verdure  is  needed 
to  break  the  lines  of  buildings  or  give  balance  to  a  place, 
as  well  as  for  shade.  They  thrive  in  any  soil,  even  the 
poorest. 

The  EUROPEAN  WHITE  BIRCH  (B.  alba)  and  its  varie- 
ties are  especially  valuable.  The  typical  form  is  an  ele- 
gant tree  of  pyramidal  outline,  and  the  small  branches 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND  SHRUBS.  57 

are  pendant.  These  latter,  of  a  reddish  color,  contrast 
finely  against  the  whiteness  of  the  trunk  and  main 
branches,  B.  The  Cut-leaved  Weeping  Birch  (var. 
pendula  laciniatd),  this  popular  and  charming  tree  re- 
sembles the  species  in  many  respects,  but  has  delicately- 
cut  foliage,  and  a  most  graceful  appearance,  which  makes 
it  a  tree  of  the  very  first  importance  in  ornamental  plant- 
ing, B.  Two  other  varieties  :  Young's  Weeping  Birch 
(var.  pendula  Youngii),  considered  by  some  the  finest  of 
all  the  Birches,  being  of  rounded,  picturesque  form, 
with  graceful,  thread-like  shoots,  several  feet  long.  The 
Elegant  Weeping  Birch  (var.  pendula  elegans)  has  the 
branches  pendant  towards  the  ground,  and  directly  par- 
allel with  the  trunk,  both  have  the  white  bark  of  the 
species,  and  are  remarkable  for  their  elegance,  D.  The 
graceful  Weeping  Birch  (var.  tristis)  is  a  variety  of  pic- 
turesque habit  with  light  branches,  arranged  in  clumps, 
and  reaching  almost  to  the  ground.  The  Purple-leaved 
Birch  (var.  foliis  purpureis),  an  effective  kind  with  foli- 
age that  is  tinged  with  purple,  C.  The  Nettle-leaved 
Birch  (var.  urticifolia}  with  leaves  of  dark-green,  slight- 
ly cut,  and  presenting  a  distinct  appearance,  D.  The 
Downy-leaved  Birch  (var.  pubescens),  with  roundish 
leaves,  and  slightly  drooping  habit ;  and  the  Pyramidal 
Birch  (var.  fastigiata)  of  very  erect  columnar  form.  All 
the  foregoing  are  varieties  of  the  European  White  Birch, 
and  possess  marked  value.  Among  American  Birches 
the  following  are  desirable  for  ornamental  planting  : 

SWEET  OR  CHERRY  BIRCH  (B.  lento),  of  rapid  growth, 
with  large  leaves  that  come  out  early,  and  dark-brown 
bark,  B. 

PAPER  OR  CANOE  BIRCH  (B.  papyracea],  very  distinct, 
with  brilliant  white  bark,  which  may  be  easily  separated 
into  thin  layers. 

POPLAR-LEAVED  OR  AMERICAN  WHITE  BIRCH  (B.  alba 


58  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

var.  populifolia),  a  rapid  grower,  with  glossy,  triangular 
leaves,  B. 

YELLOW  BIRCH  (B.  luted),  with  golden-yellow  bark,  B. 
The  Low  Birch  (B.  pumild),  a  shruby  form,  has  numer- 
ous, round,  sharply-crenated  leaves. 

The  newly  introduced  species  (B.  costata),  is  a  fine 
tree  of  erect  habit,  with  the  branches  somewhat  droop- 
ing, and  with  dark,  heart-shaped  leaves. 

The  INDIAN  PAPER  BIRCH  (B.  Bhojpaltra)  is  distinct, 
of  upright  habit  and  with  large,  heart-shaped  leaves.  B. 

LOCUST.     (Often  called  Acacia.)     Robinia.     B.-D. 

The  BLACK  OR  YELLOW  LOCUST  (R.  Pseudacacia)  is  a 
well-known  native  tree,  with  soft,  graceful  foliage,  of 
refreshing  tint  and  yellowish-white,  fragrant  flowers  ;  of 
only  common  value,  B.  There  are  a  number  of  excellent 
varieties  of  this,  such  as  the  Golden  Locust  (var.  aurea), 
a  fine  tree  with  golden-tinted  foliage.  Bessou's  Locust 
(var.  Bessoniana)  is  considered  the  best  of  the  Locusts, 
of  upright  growth,  with  luxuriant,  dark-green  foliage, 
and  is  thornless,  B.  A  variety  called  bullata  is  more 
compact  in  growth,  B.  Bella-rosea  is  a  thornless  variety 
of  vigorous  habit,  with  delicate,  flesh- colored  flowers, 
tinged  with  yellow,  B.  There  are  several  varieties  which 
have  a  characteristically  erect  habit,  among  these  are  the 
Pyramidal  Locust  (var  pyramidalis),  with  dark  foliage, 
and  one  called  fastigiata,  resembling  the  Lombardy 
Poplar  in  form  of  growth.  The  variety  spectabilis  is  a  sort 
with  straight,  vigorous  shoots  and  large  leaves.  There 
arc  some  varieties  of  a  gobular  form  of  growth,  which 
are  quite  distinct  in  appearance,  namely  :  Globe  or  Par- 
asol Locust  (var.  inermis)  is  a  remarkably  handsome, 
thornless  tree,  that  may  by  clipping  be  kept  as  round  as 
a  ball,  D. ;  var.  inermis  rubra  monstrosa,  a  tree  of 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND   SHEUBS.  59 

dwarf  growth  with  blush  flowers ;  var.  inermis  rubra, 
globe-headed,  with  white  flowers  tinged  with  pink. 

The  ROSE  OR  Moss  LOCUST  (R.  Uispida)  is  a  native 
species  of  low  irregular  habit,  but  producing  elegant 
racemes  of  rose-colored  flowers  in  June  and  later,  C. 
The  variety  grandiflora  is  extremely  attractive  when  in 
bloom,  the  flowers,  as  well  as  the  foliage,  being  much 
larger  than  those  of  the  species. 

The  Clammy  Locust  (R.  viscosa),  a  native,  is  a  beau- 
tiful, compact  grower,  with  fine  foliage,  and  pale-pink, 
odorless  flowers ;  slightly  tender  in  the  far  North,  D. 
A  kind  offered  in  some  catalogues  as  the 

JAPANESE  ACACIA  (Acacia  Nemu)  is  said  to  be  entirely 
distinct,  and  described  as  having  handsome  rose-colored 
flowers  and  delicate  foliage. 

THE  HONEY  LOCUST.     GUditschia.     B. 

The  COMMON  HONEY  LOCUST  (G.  triacanthos)  is  a  tree 
with  elegant  foliage,  and  which,  with  proper  shearing,  is 
one  of  our  best  hardy  hedge  plants,  B. 

There  are  several  Asiatic  species,  embracing  the  Caspian 
Honey  Locust  (G.  Caspica),  of  strong  growth  and  irreg- 
ular habit,  with  large  foliage  and  white  flowers,  B  ;  and 
the  Chinese  Honey  Locust  (G.  Sinensis). 

The  THORNLESS  HONEY  LOCUST  (G. triacanthos,  var. 
inermis)  is  a  small,  globe-headed  tree,  with  elegant  foli- 
age, D. 

The  WEEPING  HONEY  LOCUST  (var.  Bujotii)  is  a  va- 
riety of  the  common  three-thorned  species,  of  graceful, 
slightly  pendulous  habit ;  liable  to  winter-kill  in  the 
North,  unless  growing  where  well  protected. 

THE  PERSIMMON.     Diospyros. 

The  AMERICAN  PERSIMMON  (D.  Virginiana)  is  the 
hardiest  of  the  Persimmons,  and  this  needs  protection 
when  young,  in  the  North.  Large,  smooth,  thickish 


60  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

leaves,  and  crab-apple-like  fruit,  that  is  edible  after  being 
severely  frosted. 

The  JAPAN  PERSIMMON  (D.  Kaki),  and  the  European 
Persimmon  (D.  Lotus),  both  possess  fine  ornamental 
qualities,  but  are  not  to  be  considered  as  hardy  north  of 
Richmond.  The  former  has  a  reputation  for  affording 
good  edible  fruit. 

THE   NETTLE  TREE.       CeltlS.      B. 

The  AMERICAN  NETTLE  TREE  OR  HACKBERRY  (G. 

occidentaUs)  is  a  desirable  tree  for  ornament,  with  leaves 
resembling,  in  part,  both  the  Elm  and  Apple,  B.  There 
are  also  several  varieties  of  this. 

The  EUROPEAN  NETTLE  TREE  (C.  australis)  is  an  in- 
teresting tree  of  vigorous  habit,  with  long,  slender 
branches  and  dark-green  leaves. 

THE  CERCIDIPHTLLUM.     Cercidiphyllum.     B. 

C.  JAPONICUM,  the  only  species  in  cultivation,  is  a  re- 
cent introduction  from  Northern  Japan,  and  related  to 
the  Magnolias.  Prof.  Sargent  says  that  it  is  perfectly 
hardy  about  Boston,  and  of  great  promise.  Foliage 
small,  compact,  and  graceful.  Flowers  small  and  incon- 
spicuous. 

THE    FLOWERING   APPLE    AND    MOUNTAIN    ASH.      Pyms. 

B.-C. 

The  Flowering  Apple  and  the  Mountain  Ash,  both  be- 
longing to  the  same  genus,  are  herewith  placed  under  one 
head.  Of  the  former, 

The  CHINESE  DOUBLE  ROSE-FLOWERING  CRAB  (P. 
spcctdbilis)  is  a  handsome  growing  tree,  with  attractive, 
fragrant  flowers  in  May,  C.  There  is  a  variety  of  this 
with  pale,  semi-double  flowers. 

The  GARLAND  FLOWERING  CRAB  (P.  coronaria)  is 
one  of  our  most  delightful,  small,  native  trees.  Covered 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  61 

in  the  spring  with  blush-colored  flowers,  which  load  the 
air  with  delicious  fragrance  for  a  long  distance. 

Other  ornamental  forms  are  Rivers'  Semi-double  Crab, 
the  Aucuba-leaved,  and  the  Double-flowering  Apple. 

The  Mountain  Ash  section  of  the  genus  affords  a  num- 
ber of  fine  ornamental  trees. 

The  EUROPEAN  MOUNTAIN  ASH  (P.  aucuparid)  is  an 
excellent,  handsome  tree,  of  compact  form,  showing  an 
abundance  of.  scarlet  berries  from  July  until  winter,  C. 
There  are  several  varieties  of  this,  including  the  Weep- 
ing Mountain  Ash  (var.  penduld),  a  valuable  sort  on  ac- 
count of  its  curious  habit  of  growth,  D.}  and  two  dwarfs 
that  are  handsome. 

The  AMERICAN  MOUNTAIN  ASH  (P.  A mericana)  resem- 
bles the  European  in  many  respects,  but  is  less  desirable 
on  the  whole,  B.  The  Elder-leaved  Mountain  Ash  (P. 
sambucifolid)  is  another  native,  with  pleasing  foliage,  B. 
The  Hybrid  Mountain  Ash  (P.  liybrida)  is  a  choice  tree, 
with  fine,  large,  grayish  leaves,  which  produce  a  hand- 
some effect. 

The  OAK-LEAVED  MOUNTAIN  ASH  (P.  quercifolid)  is 
a  handsome  sort  of  vigorous  habit,  and  with  beautiful 
lobed  leaves  of  bright  green,  B.  The  Golden-striped  and 
the  Golden  Hybrid  Mountain  Ash,  and  some  other  varie- 
ties not  included  here,  are  valuable  only  in  large  col- 
lections. 

THE  OSAGE  ORANGE.     Madura  aumntiaca.  B. 

A  native  tree  of  spreading,  picturesque  habit,  and 
handsome,  orange-like  foliage,  which  gives  to  it  a  pleas- 
ing appearance.  "Well  suited  for  making  hedges  in  any 
but  the  northernmost  parts  of  the  country. 

THE  SASSAFRAS.     Sassafras  officinale.     B. 

This  tree,  well  known  for  its  spicy  bark,  is  very  hand- 
some for  small  pleasure  grounds,  if  grown  in  a  warm, 


62  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

rich  soil.  The  foliage,  which  is  small  and  usually  two 
and  three-lobed,  is  of  a  soft  texture  and  has  a  warm  green 
color.  There  is  a  peculiar  beauty  in  the  soft  outlines, 
and  lights  and  shades  of  this  tree,  that  renders  it  quite 
distinct  in  appearance. 

AMELANCHIER.    Mespilus,  Medlar.     B.-F. 

To  simplify  matters,  I  bring  together  here  the  orna- 
mental species  of  the  kinds  above  named  in  the  head. 
They  are  all  closely  related  to,  and  somewhat  resemble, 
the  apple  and  thorns  in  leaf  and  forms  of  growth. 

SERVICE-BERRY,  SNOWY  MESPILUS,  SHAD-FLOWER 
AND  JUNE-BERRY,  are  names  used  in  different  localities 
for  Amelanchier  Canadensis.  A  small  native  tree,  which 
is  especially  variable  in  size,  character  of  its  leaves,  and 
abundance  of  its  flowers;  the  var.  Botryapium  is  one  of 
the  most  pleasing,  and  in  spring  is  covered  with  a  pro- 
fusion of  snow-white  flowers.  The  Common  European 
species  (A.  vulgaris)  is  sometimes  cultivated.  It  has 
smooth  leaves  and  small,  white  flowers. 

The  MEDLAR  (Mespilus  Germanica)  is  a  small  tree 
with  curious  tortuous  branches,  and  large,  white  flowers. 
It  is  sometimes  grown  in  hedges  in  Europe,  and  produces 
a  fruit  of  little  value,  C. 

ORNAMENTAL  CHERRIES,  PLUMS,  ALMONDS,  AND  PEACHES. 

Prunus.     B.-F. 

Formerly  the  Cherry,  Plum,  Almond,  and  Peach  were 
placed  in  different  genera.  Sometime  ago,  botanists 
united  the  Cherry  (Cerasus)  with  the  Plum  under 
Prunus,  and  the  more  modern  authors  have  placed  the 
Almond  (Amygdalus),  the  Peach  (Persica),  and  Apri- 
cot (Armeniaca)  all  under  Prunus.  All  of  these  have 
double-flowered  varieties,  which  are  highly  ornamental 
and  deserve  more  attention  from  planters  than  they  have 
yet  received. 


DECIDUOUS  TBEES   AND   SHRUBS.  63 

The  DOUBLE  FLOWERING  CHERRY  (P.  avium,fl.  pi.), 
is  extremely  handsome  when  in  bloom,  being  so  densely 
covered  with  large,  pure  white,  double  flowers  as  to  hide 
the  branches. 

The  WEEPING  CHERRIES. — The  Common  Weeping 
Cherry  belongs  to  the  preceding  species,  and  is  a  pleas- 
ing variety  with  drooping  branches.  The  Weeping 
Bigarreau  Cherry  is  a  good  sized,  handsome  tree,  with 
graceful,  pendant  branches.  The  D  warf  Weeping  Cherry 
is  a  very  small,  beautiful  tree,  suited  to  small  plots. 
The  Weeping  Sour  Cherry  is  a  fine  drooping  variety, 
and  a  new  double  Cherry  from  Japan  with  rose-colored 
flowers,  is  regarded  as  a  promising  ornamental  tree. 

The  EUROPEAN  BIRD  CHERRY  (P.  Padus),  belonging 
to  the  same  section  of  the  genus  as  our  Wild  Cherries,  is 
an  admirable  lawn  tree.  It  has  a  handsome  form,  good 
foliage,  and  a  profusion  of  white  flowers  in  long  racemes 
in  May,  C. 
.  There  are  two  fine  forms  with  variegated  leaves: 

The  AUCUBA-LEAVED  CHERRY  with  deep-green  leaves, 
speckled  and  splashed  with  yellowish-white,  C.;  and  the 
Variegated  Bird  Cherry,  with  leaves  dotted  and  blotched 
with  yellow  ;  both  have  a  slender  drooping  habit,  C. 

Of  the  FLOWERING  PLUMS,  those  bearing  the  most  re- 
semblance to  the  common  Plum  are  :  the  Double  Flow- 
ering Sloe  (P.  spinosa,  flore  pleno),  from  Japan,  with 
daisy-like,  white  flowers  in  spring,  followed  by  purple 
fruit,  E.;  and  the  Common  Double  Flowering  Plum  (P. 
domestica,  fl.  pi.),  K 

Some  dAvarf  Plums  are  among  our  best  ornamental 
shrubs.  The  Double  Flowering  Plum  (P.  trilobd]  is  a 
very  fine,  hardy  shrub,  Avith  beautiful,  delicate-pink, 
semi-double  flowers,  arranged  closely  along  the  branches, 
and  forming  compact  spikes.  P.  tomentosa,  from  Japan, 
is  a  fine  shrub,  with  plaited  leaves,  but  inconspicuous 


64  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

flowers,  G.  P.  Sinensis,  of  some,  is  a  distinct  species, 
with  small  flowers  early  in  the  spring,  followed  by  necta- 
rine-like fruit. 

The  FLOWERING  ALMONDS  belong  here.  Some  of  the 
so-called  Flowering  Almonds  are  properly  plums  or  cher- 
ries. One  of  the  best  known  is  the 

DOUBLE  WHITE  FLOWERING  ALMOND,  a  small  tree 
with  a  great  profusion  of  double  white  flowers  in 
early  spring.  It  has  very  rich  foliage.  The  Bose-flow- 
ered  Almond  resembles  the  preceding,  except  in  the  color 
of  its  flowers. 

The  DWARF  FLOWERING  ALMONDS  (Prunus  \amygda- 
lus]  nana)  are  very  old  garden  favorites,  their  double 
flowers  are  rose -colored  or  white,  and  produced  in  great 
profusion. 

The  FLOWERING  PEACHES,  when  properly  pruned,  are 
very  handsome,  but  if  left  to  grow  at  will,  form  unsightly 
broad  heads.  There  is  a  double  white  and  a  double  rose- 
colored  variety,  and  one  in  which  the  flowers  are  curious- 
ly variegated,  being  white  and  rose-colored  upon  the 
same  tree.  The  Blood-leaved  Peach  has  its  foliage  in 
spring  and  early  summer  of  a  bright,  crimsom  color,  but 
later  it  turns  to  a  dull  green. 

THE  LABURNUM  OR  GOLDEN  CHAIN.      Laburnum.       C. 

Ornamental,  profuse-flowering,  small  trees  and  shrubs, 
which  succeed  in  almost  any  soil,  but  at  the  North  are 
apt  to  be  injured  in  winter. 

The  COMMON  LABURNUM  OR  GOLDEN  CHAIN  (Labur- 
num vulgare)  has  glossy,  trifoliate  leaves  and  drooping 
racemes  of  yellow  flowers,  which  give  the  tree  a  very  rich 
appearance. 

ALSCHINGER'S  LABURNUM  (L.  AlscUngeri),  .  and 
PARK'S  LABURNUM  (L.  vulgare,  var.  Parkii),  are  dis- 
tinct forms,  and  produce  similar  racemes  of  yellow  flow- 


DECIDUOUS   TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  65 

era.  The  Oak-leaved  Laburnum  (var.  quercifolia),  and 
the  Large-leaved  (var.  macrophylla),  are  other  varieties 
of  merit. 

The  PURPLE-FLOWERED  LABURNUM,  so  called,  belongs 
to  the  closely  related  genus  Cytisus  (C.  purpureus).  It 
produces  racemes  of  golden  flowers.  The  Alpine,  or 
Scotch  Laburnum  (L.  alpinum),  is  regarded  as  the 
hardiest  of  the  genus  ;  of  dense,  irregular,  spreading 
form,  reaching  size  B  in  good  soil.  Foliage  large,  smooth, 
and  dark.  Flowers  golden-yellow,  in  long  racemes. 

THE    HORNBEAM.       CarpitlUS.       C. 

The  AMERICAN  HORNBEAM  (C.  Americana)  is  a  small, 
neat-looking  tree,  with  wiry  branches  and  leaves  that 
resemble  those  of  the  Beech.  Handsome  whether  planted 
singly  or  in  groups.  It  is  also  a  good  hedge  plant. 

The  ENGLISH  HORNBEAM  (C.  Betulus)  resembles  the 
above,  but  is  of  stronger  growth,  C.  There  is  a  dwarf 
variety  of  this  (var.  pendula),  which,  when  grafted 
standard  high,  makes  a  beautiful,  round-headed  tree. 

The  HOP-HORNBEAM  OR  IRON-WOOD,  belongs  to  a 
closely  related  genus  ( Ostrya  Virginica).  It  has  a  re- 
semblance to  the  foregoing,  but  is  more  upright  and 
slender,  with  smaller  leaves.  It  is  valuable  as  an  orna- 
mental tree  on  account  of  its  light,  graceful  spray. 

THE  KCELREUTERIA.     Kcelreuteria  paniculata. 

A  low-growing  tree,  with  fine,  brilliant-green,  pinnate 
foliage,  which  turns  to  a  rich  yellow  in  the  autumn. 
Flowers  golden-yellow,  produced  in  spreading  clusters  in 
mid-summer,  and  with  showy,  inflated  seed-pods  in 
autumn.  A  native  of  China. 

THE   JUDAS-TREE    OR   RED-BUD.        Cerds.       C.-E. 

• 

The  AMERICAN  JUDAS-TREE  (C.  Canadensis)  is  a 
small  tree,  with  large,  glossy,  heart-shaped  leaves,  and 


66  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

in  spring,  before  the  foliage  comes,  is  covered  all  along 
the  branches  with  delicate  pink  flowers  in  great  profu- 
sion, C. 

The  ORIENTAL  JUDAS-TREE  (C.  Chinensis ;  C.  Japon- 
ica  in  some  catalogues),  is  another  valuable  kind,  more 
dwarf  and  compact  than  the  American,  with  thick, 
roundish  leaves,  of  a  dark-green  color,  and  has  larger 
and  brighter  flowers,  E. 

THE    VIRGINIAN      OR     WHITE     FRINGE.  Chionanthus 

Virginica.     C. 

This  is  a  handsome  small  tree  or  bush,  with  large, 
glossy,  acutely-elliptical  leaves,  and  drooping  racemes  of 
fringe-like,  white  flowers  in  the  spring  ;  a  great  favorite 
generally. 

THE  DOGWOOD.     Cornus.  C.-G. 

The  FLOWERING  DOGWOOD  (C.  floridd)  is  a  fine, 
small  tree,  with  glossy,  grayish-green  foliage,  that  turns 
to  a  most  attractive  red  in  autumn.  Its  chief  charm  is 
its  large,  pure- white  flowers,  produced  in  spring  before 
the  leaves  appear.  The  showy  portion  of  the  flowers  is 
really  the  bracts  or  appendages  surrounding  the  clusters, 
the  real  flowers  being  small  and  inconspicuous.  Delights 
in  a  well-drained,  rich  soil,  C. 

The  WEEPING  DOGWOOD,  said  to  be  a  variety  of  C. 
florida,  is  described  as  being  hacdsome,  of  upright 
growth,  and  pendulous  branches,  with  flowers  and  foliage 
resembling  the  parent. 

The  ROUND-LEAVED  DOGWOOD  (C.  circinatd)  has 
roundish  leaves,  downy  beneath  ;  young  shoots  green, 
blotched  with  purple  ;  small,  white  flowers  in  flat  cymes, 
G. 

ALTERNATE-LEAVED  DOGWOOD  (C.  alternifolia),  a 
beautiful  shrub,  but  it  may  be  trained  in  a  tree  form  ; 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  67 

it  has  yellowish-white  flowers,  in  May  and  June,  and 
blue-black  fruit  in  autumn,  E. 

The  KED-BRANCHED  OR  OSIER  DOGWOOD  (C.  san- 
guined), a  species  from  Europe.  It  is  a  large,  spreading 
bush,  with  blood-red  bark  that  is  conspicuous  in  winter, 
and  especially  so  in  early  spring.  White  flowers,  6r. 

The  RED  SIBERIAN  DOGWOOD,  (C.  Sibirioa,  var.  var- 
iegata),  is  a  remarkable  new  shrub,  with  richer  colored 
bark  than  the  last  named,  and  with  leaves  slightly  mar- 
gined with  a  silvery  color  ;  undoubtedly  a  great  acquisi- 
tion. 

The  CORNELIAN  CHERRY  (C.  Mas.),  an  European 
species,  somewhat  resembling  the  Flowering  Dogwood, 
and  bearing  yellowish  flowers  early  in  the  spring,  with 
edible  fruit  later.  The  Variegated  Cornelian  Cherry 
(var.  variegata)  has  richly  variegated  leaves,  more  than 
one  half  of  their  surface  being  of  a  clear  silvery-white, 
giving  the  shrub  an  exceedingly  handsome  and  distinct 
appearance,  which  renders  it  unequalled  as  a  silvery- 
hued  shrub,  F. 

THE  THORN.     CratcBgus.     C.  H. 

There  are  many  species  of  thorns  in  cultivation,  not 
one  of  which  is  undesirable  where  room  is  abundant.  All 
are  well  adapted  for  growing  in  lawns  of  small  area. 
Some  of  the  best  are  the  double-flowering  varieties,  with 
red,  pink,  and  white  flowers. 

The  COMMON  HAWTHORN  (C.  Oxyacantlia]  is  the  cel- 
brated  English  hedge  plant.  The  Arbutus- leaved,  Apple- 
leaved,  Pear-leaved,  Glossy-leaved,  Parsley-leaved,  and 
many  others  are  varieties  of  this  species.  Nearly  all  are 
of  compact  growth, and  will  grow  in  any  soil  and  situation, 
producing  their  very  attractive  flowers  most  freely.  They 
readily  bear  pruning,  and  are  well  adapted  for  hedges. 

The  EVERGREEN  THORN  (C.  Pyracantha)  is  a  hand- 


68  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

some,  small  species,  that  retains  its  dark-green  foliage 
through  the  winter,  it  has  purplish  and  white  flowers, 
and  red  fruit ;  there  is  a  variety  with  white  fruit. 

THE  BUCKTHORN.     Rliamnus  catliarticus. 

Is  a  fine  shrub  for  hedges.  It  has  small,  dark  leaves, 
and  inconspicuous  greenish- white  flowers.  There  is  a 
variety  of  Buckthorn  (var.  latifolius)  with  larger  leaves. 

THE  WITCH  HAZEL.     Hamamelis  Virginica. 

A  native,  tall  shrub,  with  somewhat  downy  leaves,  in 
appearance  resembling  those  of  the  Hazel.  It  is  notable 
for  producing  its  curious  yellow  flowers  late  in  autumn, 
just  as  the  leaves  are  falling,  at  the  same  time  the  cap- 
sules from  the  flowers  of  the  previous  year  open  and 
eject  their  seeds.  Some  recent  introductions  from  Japan 
belonging  to  this  genus  are  little  known  as  yet. 

THE  SUMACH.      RJlUS.     K 

The  PURPLE  FRINGE  (R.  Cotinus),  known  also  as  the 
Venetian  Sumach,  Smoke-Tree,  Mist- Tree,  Wig-Tree, 
etc.,  is  an  old  favorite,  which  is  prized  for  its  handsome 
appearance  at  mid-summer  and  later,  when  it  is  covered 
with  its  large,  cloud-like,  masses  of  "fringe."  These 
are  really  the  enlarged  branching  and  very  hairy  flower- 
stalks  of  abortive  flowers.  They  are  often  tinged  with 
red,  and  are  very  ornamental.  The  foliage  has  a  fresh 
appearance  and  in  autumn  takes  on  rich  colors.  It 
should  be  grown  in  the  form  of  a  shrub,  E. 

OSBECK'S  CHINESE  SUMACH  (R.  Osbeckii)  is  a  new 
species  with  handsome  foliage,  that  turns  to  attractive 
colors  in  autumn. 

The  FRAGRANT  SUMACH  (R.  aromatica)  is  a  showy, 
early-flowering  shrub,  the  flowers  of  which  are  succeeded 
by  showy  berries.  Several  other  native  Sumachs  are  de- 
sirable for  ornamental  planting.  Of  these  the 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND  SHRUBS.  C9 

STAGHORN  SUMACH  (R.  typJiina)  is  especially  note- 
worthy on  account  of  its  elegant,  compound  leaves,  which 
assume  colors  of  great  brilliancy  in  autumn,  at  which 
time  it  bears  its  bunches  of  crimson  berries,  G. 

The  CUT-LEAVED  SUMACH  (R.  glabra,  var.  laciniatd) 
is  a  variety  of  our  most  common  native  species,  with  re- 
markably handsome,  fern-like  leaves,  which  are  dark- 
green  above,  and  glaucous  below. 

THE  LILAC.     Syringa.     E. 

The  Lilac,  represented  by  a  large  number  of  species, 
and  innumerable  varieties,  is  one  of  our  most  valuable 
ornamental  shrubs.  Of  the  easiest  culture  in  any  or- 
dinarily good  soil,  with  attractive  foliage  and  very  fragrant 
flowers,  it  is  rarely  the  case  in  adorning  grounds,  what- 
ever may  be  their  size,  that  some  of  the  Lilacs  cannot  be 
used  to  good  advantage.  Some  are  disposed  to  send  up 
sprouts  from  the  roots,  but  these  may  be  easily  kept 
down.  They  can  be  grown  to  a  tree  form  with  careful 
pruning,  but  should  generally  be  trained  with  a  low 
head.  The  well-known 

COMMON  LILAC  (8.  vulgaris),  with  purple  and  white 
flowers,  still  ranks  high  in  value.  From  this  have  sprung 
many  varieties,  some  of  which  are  improvements  on  the 
species.  Some  of  these  have  larger  flowers  than  the 
parent,  or  differently  colored  ;  others  vary  in  their 
habit  of  growth,  there  being  both  dwarf  and  stronger 
growing  sorts,  and  there  is  one  variety  called  Golden- 
leaved  Lilac  (var.  variegatd),  with  large,  yellowish-green 
foliage,  which  is  valuable  for  creating  contrasts  of  color. 
The  Asiatic  species  possess  great  value,  being,  as  a  rule, 
more  graceful  and  delicate  in  form,  and  with  smaller 
leaves  than  those  of  the  Common  Lilac. 

The  PERSIAN  LILAC  (S.  Persica)  has  large  panicles 
of  somewhat  loosely  arranged,  dark  lilac  flowers.  This 


70  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

forms  a  bush  of  great  beauty  when  grown  where  it  has 
a  chance  to  develop.  The  Persian  White  Lilac  (var. 
alba)  is  like  the  preceding,  except  in  the  color  of  the 
flowers.  There  is  also  a  Cut-leaved  variety. 

The  CHINESE  LILAC  (8.  dulia,  also  S.  Chinensis  of 
some),  is  a  species  resembling  the  Persian,  but  with 
longer  leaves,  and  of  which  there  are  several  varieties, 
including  reddish,  purple,  and  white. 

EMOD'S  LILAC  (S.  Emodi]  is  a  distinct  and  choice 
Chinese  species,  which  assumes  a  tree-like  form,  and  has 
white  flowers,  D. 

The  EOUEN  OR  FRENCH  BED  LILA.C  (S.  duUa,  var. 
RotJiomagensis),  is  said  to  be  a  hybrid  between  the  Com- 
mon Lilac  and  the  Persian,  and  embodies  perhaps  more 
good  qualities  than  any  other  Lilac.  The  flowers  are 
reddish,  in  numerous,  large  panicles,  C. 

JOSIKA'S  OR  CHIONANTHUS-LEAVED  LILAC  (S.  Josi- 
TCCBO)  is  a  distinct  and  remarkably  handsome  variety, 
of  strong,  upright  growth,  and  with  long,  rich,  shining 
leaves.  Flowers  purple,  appearing  after  other  kinds 
have  flowered. 

VERSCHAFFELT'S  LILAC  (S.  Verschaffelti]  is  another 
distinct  variety,  with  flowers  in  large  compact  panicles, 
dark-red  in  the  bud,  changing  to  lilac  as  they  open. 

THE  CARAGANA  OR  PEA-TREE.      Caragana.     E. 

Low  growing  trees  or  shrubs  from  Asia,  with  peculiar 
acacia-like,  light-green  leaves,  with  a  golden  hue,  and 
which  contrast  in  a  marked  manner  with  most  other 
shrubs.  Flowers  yellowish. 

The  SIBERIAN  PEA-TREE  (G.  Altagand)  is  of  pleasing 
habit  and  quite  hardy. 

The  CHINESE  PEA-TREE  (C.  Chamlagu)  throws  up 
erect  branches  at  first,  but  later  they  droop. 


DECIDUOUS   TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  71 

The  ARBORESCENT  PEA-TREE  (C.  arborescens)  is  up- 
right in  habit,  but  always  remains  small.  There  are 
still  other  kinds  named  in  some  lists. 

THE  ELDER.       SttmbuCUS.      E.-G. 

Large  shrubs,  with  ornamental  foliage,  flowers  and 
fruit,  that  entitle  them  to  a  place  in  large  collections  of 
shrubs.  With  the  exception  of  the  Cut-leaved  they  are 
rather  coarse  for  small  lawns. 

EUROPEAN  ELDER  (S.  nigra),  of  large,  irregular, 
picturesque  growth,  with  broad  cymes  of  white  flowers 
in  mid-summer.  Very  popular  in  European  parks,  E. 
Golden-leaved  Elder  (var.  aurea),  a  handsome,  but 
rather  coarse  shrub,  with  bright,  golden-splashed  foliage, 
and  sweet,  white  flowers  in  July.  Variegated-leaved 
Elder  (var.  variegata),  leaves  edged  and  mottled  with 
yellowish- white.  Improved  by  severe  pruning  occasion- 
ally, as  the  variegation  on  the  young  growth  is  the  most 
attractive,  G.  Cut-leaved  Elder  (var.  laciniata),  a  valu- 
able cut-leaved  shrub,  with  elegantly  divided  leaves,  G. 

The  COMMON  AMERICAN  ELDER  (8.  Canadensis]  is 
useful  for  ornament  in  large  grounds,  and  can  usually 
be  procured  without  cost. 

SNOWDROP   OR  SILVER-BELL  TREE.       Holesid.       E. 

The  FOUR-WINGED  SNOWDROP  OR  SILVER-BELL  (H. 
tetrapterd)  is  a  graceful  shrub,  bearing  a  profusion  of 
pretty,  white,  bell-shaped  flowers,  resembling  somewhat 
those  of  the  little  snowdrop,  in  May,  and  are  followed 
by  curious  four-winged  fruit.  Thrives  in  poor  soil  and 
does  not  object  to  moist  places. 

The  Two- WINGED  SNOWDROP  (H.  dipterd)  has  larger 
leaves  than  the  last  named,  and  is  less  common. 


72  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

THE  HOP-TREE  OR  SHRUBBY  TREFOIL.       Ptelea  trifoliatci. 

E. 

A  large  shrub  or  small  tree  of  rapid  growth,  with 
handsome,  smooth,  trifoliate  leaves  in  June,  clustered 
whitish  flowers  followed  by  seed-pods,  which  in  taste 
and  odor  resemble  hops.  Makes  a  handsome  low  tree,  if 
trained  with  a  single  stem. 

THE  TAMARISK.     Tamarix.     E. 

Shrubs  of  strong,  irregular  growth,  with  delicate, 
feathery  foliage,  somewhat  resembling  the  Juniper,  and 
with  the  branches  covered  with  fine,  pink  flowers  in 
June.  The  general  growth  is  coarse.  There  are  several 
species  which  do  not  differ  much  in  appearance.  The 
most  generally  cultivated  is  T.  Gallica. 

THE  SPICEBUSH.     Lindera  Benzoin.     E. 

A  large  and  rather  pleasing  native  shrub,  with  light- 
green  foliage,  and  small  clusters  of  yellowish  flowers,  ap- 
pearing in  early  spring  before  the  leaves. 

THE  ARALIA.     AraUa. 

A  genus  comprising  small,  singular-looking  trees,  with 
large,  showy,  and  much  divided  leaves.  Useful  for 
creating  u  tropical"  effects  in  gardens.  Of  free  growth, 
but  needing  a  little  protection  in  exposed  places. 

The  ORIENTAL  ARALIA  (A.  CMnensis,  also  called  A. 
Japonica),  is  of  dwarf,  spreading  form,  with  prickly 
stems  and  shoots,  large  feathery  leaves,  and  white 
flowers. 

The  MANDSCHURIAN  ARALIA  is  a  variety  of  the  fore- 
going (A.  Cliinensis,  var.  elata,  which  has  been  palled 
Dimorphanthus  MandsJturicus),  is  a  Chinese  species, 
with  hairy  and  prickly  bipinnate  leaves. 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  73 

ANGELICA  TREE  or  HERCULES'  CLUB  (A.  spinosa),  a 
native  kind,  with  stout  stems,  and  very  large  leaves ; 
throws  up  suckers  from  the  roots. 

SPINDLE-TREE   OR  BURNING-BUSH.      EuonyiHUS.      E.-G. 

A  genus  with  mostly  pleasing  foliage  of  a  fresh  green 
color,  showing  to  fine  advantage  among  other  shrubs. 
They  nearly  all  bear  a  profusion  of  crimson  and  scarlet 
or  ornamental  fruit,  which  renders  the  trees  very  attrac- 
tive in  the  autumn,  and  it  is  to  this  that  most  of  them 
owe  their  common  names. 

The  STRAWBERRY  BUSH  (E.  Americanus),  a  small 
bush,  rarely  over  five  feet  high,  with  rich,  shining  leaves, 
and  medium-sized  scarlet  berries,  E. 

The  BURNING-BUSH  or  SPINDLE-TREE  (E.  atropur- 
pureus),  a  handsome  native  species,  of  erect  habit  and 
fresh,  green  foliage,  with  bright  crimson,  or  purplish 
fruit. 

The  BROAD-LEAVED  EUONYMUS  (E.  latifolius)  is  an 
exceedingly  fine  European  species,  with  broad,  glossy 
leaves,  and  large,  deep-red  fruit. 

The  WINGED  EUONYMUS  (E.  alatus)  from  Japan  is 
interesting  on  account  of  the  wings,  that  extend  down 
the  stems. 

The  EUROPEAN  BURNING-BUSH  (E.  Europceus)  is  a 
a  large  species,  with  handsome  foliage  and  fruit.  Of 
this  one  there  are  several  varieties  that  are  quite  orna- 
mental, such  as  the  Purple-leaved  Euonymus  (var.  atro- 
purpureus),  with  purple  leaves  in  autumn  ;  the  White- 
fruited  Euonymus  ;  the  Linear-leaved  Euonymus,  with 
narrow,  dark-colored  foliage,  and  of  small  size ;  the 
Dwarf  Euonymus,  of  dwarfish  form,  with  dark-green 
leaves,  G. 

The  handsome,  evergreen,  Japanese  kinds  are  very 
desirable  where  they  will  stand  the  winters  uninjured. 
4 


74  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

THE  EOSE  OF  SHARON  OR  SHRUBBY  ALTHAEA.        HlMsCUS. 

E.-G. 

Mostly  free-growing  shrubs  of  upright  forms,  produc- 
ing showy  flowers  resembling  hollyhocks,  in  the  late 
summer  season,  and  at  a  time  when  few  hardy  trees  and 


Fig.  5.— BOSE  OF  SHARON,  VARIEGATED  (Hibiscus  Syriacus,  TOT.) 


Bhrubs  are  in  bloom.  To  keep  them  in  good  shape, 
they  should  be  closely  headed-in  annually.  The  first 
two  winters  after  planting  there  should  be  a  liberal  coat 
of  coarse  litter  applied  over  the  roots  in  the  North,  to 
protect  them  from  cold,  and  after  that  they  will  prove 
very  hardy. 
All  of  the  many  varieties  that  are  now  offered  in 


DECIDUOUS   TREES   AND   SHETJBS.  75 

nurseries,  are  descendents  of  H.  Syriacus,  a  free  flower- 
ing, but  rather  coarse  grower.  There  are  single  and 
double  flowering  varieties  of  white,  red,  purple,  pink, 
rose,  violet,  and  other  colors,  and  some  are  beautifully 
striped  or  blotched.  The  double  flowering  sorts  are 
generally  the  handsomest  shrubs.  One  of  the  most  val- 
uable of  the  double  flowering  kinds  is  the  Variegated- 
leaved  Hibiscus  (fig.  5),  with  leaves  which  are  conspicu- 
ously marked  with  light-yellow,  on  a  green  ground,  and 
one  of  the  very  best  variegated-leaved  shrubs;  flowers 
purple,  but  not  showy,  F. 

THE  MOCK  ORANGE  OR  SYRINGA.      PMlttdelpJlUS.      E.-H. 

How  the  name  Syringa  ever  came  to  stand  so  improp- 
erly, yet  generally  for  this  genus,  it  is  hard  to  tell,  and 
its  use  both  for  these  shrubs,  and  for  the  Lilac,  where  it 
rightly  belongs,  tends  to  confusion  in  names.  However, 
it  may  be  said  that  no  collection  of  shrubs  can  be  con- 
sidered complete  without  the  presence  of  the  Mock 
Oranges.  They  are  noted  for  their  sweet  and  showy, 
white,  or  nearly  white,  flowers,  single  and  double,  their 
handsome  and  free  growth,  and  their  remarkable  adapta- 
bility to  any  place  and  soil. 

The  G'OMMON  or  GARLAND  MOCK  ORANGE  (P.  coro- 
narius],  also  called  Garland  Syringa,  is  a  rapid-growing, 
slightly  coarse  shrub,  well  known  for  its  showy  and  fra- 
grant, white  flowers,  E.  Double  -flowering  Mock  Orange 
is  an  attractive  semi-double-flowering  form  of  the  above. 
The  Dwarf  Mock  Orange  (var.  nana)  is  a  handsome,  and 
very  dwarf-growing  variety,  more  valued  for  its  generally 
fine  and  cleanly  appearance,  than  for  its  flowers,  which 
are  shyly  produced,  H.  The  Golden-leaved  Mock 
Orange  is  a  very  pretty  dwarf  variety,  with  yellow-tinged 
foliage  ;  valuable  for  single  specimens,  clumps,  or  for 
contrasts  of  foliage,  H.  The  Dwarf  Double-flowering 


76  ORNAMENTA-L   GARDENING. 

Mock  Orange  (P.  dianthijlora)  is  another  low-growing 
variety  of  great  beauty,  with  fine,  double,  creamy-white, 
fragrant  flowers. 

There  are  several  other  species  and  varieties  not  vary- 
ing greatly  in  general  respects  from  the  sorts  above  de- 
scribed. The  Large-flowering  Mock  Orange  (P.  yrandi- 
florus).  Gordon's  Late-flowering  Mock  Orange  (P. 
Gordonianus).  Eed-twigged  Mock  Orange  (P.  sanguin- 
eus),  among  older  sorts,  and  P.  laxus  with  very  large 
flowers ;  P.  nivalis,  with  snowy-white  flowers,  among 
recent  introductions,  are  perhaps  entitled  to  special 
mention  on  account  of  their  merits. 

THE  VIBURNUM.      Viburnum.    E.-G. 

This  genus  gives  us  a  number  of  our  most  valuable 
and  interesting  ornamental  shrubs.  They  are  perfectly 
hardy,  of  easy  growth  in  most  any  soil,  and  produce 
both  handsome  foliage  and  flowers.  For  the  .sake  of 
variety  some  may  readily  be  grown  to  a  tree  form. 

The  COMMON  SNOWBALL  or  GUELDER  KOSE  ( V.  Opulus 
sterilis)  is  a  well  known  variety,  with  large,  globular 
cymes  of  pure-white,  sterile  flowers,  of  a  very  showy 
character,  K  The  High  or  Bush  Cranberry  (  V.  Opulus) 
is  the  original  form  of  the  Snowball,  with  coarser  foliage 
and  habit  of  growth,  and  less  showy  flowers,  the  clusters 
of  which  have  only  sterile  flowers  around  the  margin  ; 
those  in  the  interior  of  the  cyme  are  not  showy,  but  are 
followed  by  scarlet,  acid  fruit,  sometimes  used  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  cranberries,  E.  A  dwarf  variety  (var.  nana) 
forms  a  much  smaller  bush,  H. 

The  JAPAN  or  DWARF  SNOWBALL  ( V.  plicatum)  is  a 
shrub  of  great  merit,  and  is  much  finer  than  the  common 
Snowball,  with  whiter  flowers  of  the  same  form,  a  dwarf 
habit  of  growth  and  much  handsomer  foliage.  The 
leaves  are  firm,  plaited,  of  a  rich  green,  and  contrast 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  77 

finely  with  the  handsome,  pure-white  flowers,  0.  Sever- 
al other  introductions  from  Japan  are  announced,  which 
are  well  spoken  of. 

The  NEPAL  VIBURNUM  ( F.  Nepalense)  is  a  robust- 
growing  species,  with  white  flowers  appearing  later  than 
most  others. 

EOUGH-LEAVED  VIBURNUM  ( F.  ruffosum)  has  large, 
dark-green,  rough  leaves,  and  white  flowers  in  cymes,  G. 

The  LAN  TANA-LEAVED  VIBURNUM  or  HOBBLE  BUSH 
( F.  lantanoides),  also  called  the  Way-faring  Tree  ;  the 
Plum-leaved  Viburnum  ( F.  prunifolium),  the  Withe- 
Rod  ( F.  nudum),  and  several  other  native  species  are 
also  suitable  for  ornamental  planting. 

THE  BUSH    HONEYSUCKLE.     Lonicera.    E.-H. 

The  Bush  Honeysuckles  are  mostly  strong-growing 
shrubs,  of  good  habit,  producing  a  profusion  of  fragrant 
flowers,  which  are  generally  followed  by  ornamental 
fruit.  They  thrive  in  any  soil  and  situation. 

The  TARTARIAN  HONEYSUCKLE  (L.  Tartarica)  is  a 
well-known  shrub  with  pink,  and  there  is  a  variety  with 
almost  white,  flowers,  E.  Varieties  of  the  Tartarian, 
known  as  the  Large-flowering  Honeysuckles,  both  pink 
and  white,  resemble  the  common,  but  are  more  robust  in 
habit  and  have  larger  flowers.  There  is  also  one  with 
variegated  foliage  (fig.  6),  E. 

The  FRAGRANT  BUSH  HONEYSUCKLE  (L.  fragrantis- 
sima)  is  of  low  spreading  growth,  with  branches  thickly 
studded,  before  the  leaves  appear,  with  clusters  of  whitish 
flowers,  having  a  delicious  fragrance,  G. 

LEDEBOUR'S  HONEYSUCKLE  (L.  Ledebourii)  is  a  dis- 
tinct and  very  fine  species.  The  flowers,  which  are  yel- 
low, appear  in  June,  and  are  followed  by  showy  red 
bracts,  which  bear  the  appearance  of  flowers  ;  foliage  a 


78 


ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


rich  deep  green ;  a  shapely  grower,  E.  Standish's 
Honeysuckle  (L,  Standishii)  has  large  leaves  with  April 
flowers,  that  are  reddish  outside  and  white  within,  E. 
The  English  Fly  Honeysuckle  (L.  Jfylosteum)  has  very 


Fig.  6.— TARTARIAN  HONEYSUCKLE,  VARIEGATED  (Lmacera  Tartarica  var.) 
sweet,  pinkish  flowers  before  the  leaves  come.  A  dwarf, 
native  species  with  oval,  downy  leaves  and  blue  berries, 
is  called  the  Mountain  Honeysuckle  (L.  ccerulea),  H. 

THE  STUARTIA.      (Stuartia).     E-G. 

8.  pentayyna  is  a  charming  low  tree  or  shrub,  resem- 
bling the  Dogwood  somewhat  in  its  foliage,  and  produc- 


DECIDUOUS  TKEES   AND   SHKUBS. 


79 


ing  creamy-white,  saucer-shaped  flowers  in  summer.  A 
native  of  the  southern  mountains,  it  should  be  planted 
only  in  sheltered  places  in  the  Northern  States,  E. 

The  VIKGINIAN  STUARTIA  (S.  Virginica)  is  another 
fine  species,  more  dwarf  than  the  preceding  kind,  but 


Fig.  7.— STCARTIA.  (Stuartia  pentagyna). 

resembling  it  in  form,  foliage,  and  time  of  flowering. 
Not  hardy  north  of  Virginia,  G.  Several  recent  intro- 
ductions from  Japan  have  been  reported,  which  have  not 
been  well  tested  as  yet. 


80  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

THE  WEIGELA.     Diervilla.     E-H. 

A  much  esteemed  genus  of  flowering  shrubs  which, 
while  represented  by  a  few  natives  of  little  value  for  any 
ornament,  owes  its  fame  to  the  handsome  introductions 
from  China  and  Japan,  and  varieties  of  these.  The 
Weigelas  are  good  growers,  profuse  bloomers,  and  in  their 
foliage  always  present  a  rich  glow  of  vigor,  that  is  most 
pleasing.  Mostly  erect-growing  when  young,  but  chang- 
ing later  to  a  drooping  form.  The  well-known  and 
handsome 

EOSE-COLORED  WEIGELA  (D.  rosco),  which  bears  love- 
ly, rose-colored  flowers  in  the  greatest  profusion  in  June, 
is  the  species  from  which  have  sprung  either  directly  or 
by  hybridization  with  others,  most  of  the  excellent  sorts 
now  cultivated.  Its  habit  is  all  that  could  be  desired,  G. 
Of  the  varieties  and  hybrids  there  are  many,  which  range 
in  colors  from  the  lightest  pink — almost  white — through 
rose  and  red  down  to  dark  reddish-purple  and  brownish- 
black,  and  all  are  of  excellent  habit,  producing  their 
beautiful  flowers  with  great  freedom,  and  would  be  sure 
to  prove  satisfactoiy  to  planters. 

The  VARIEGATED-LEAVED  DWARF  WEIGELA  is  a 
variety  quite  similar  to  the  parent  in  the  shape  of  the 
leaves  and  flowers,  but  of  dwarfish  habit,  and  with  the 
foliage  variegated  with  a  golden  tint,  which  gives  to  it  a 
distinct  and  handsome  appearance. 

Among  other  valuable  and  distinct  kinds  are  several 
white-flowered  sorts,  embracing  the  old  White-flowered 
Weigela  (D.  hortensis  nivea),  which  produces  fine  blos- 
soms, but  is  a  rather  unsatisfactory  grower;  and  the 
charming  New  White-flowered  Weigela  (D.  Candida), 
which,  with  its  freely  produced,  pure  white  flowers  and 
vigorous  habit,  is  destined  to  rank  as  one  of  the  best 
of  the  Weigelas.  The  D.  arborea-grandiftora  is  a  late 
blooming  sort,  producing  long,  tubular,  pale-yellow 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  81 

flowers,  which  change  to  rose-color,  of  strong  growth 
with  large  leaves. 

THE  BLADDER-NUT.     Staphyleo.     E. 

The  AMERICAN  BLADDER-NUT  (S.  trifolid)  is  a  native 
upright  shrub,  with  greenish- striped  branches,  pinnate 
leaves,  of  three  to  five  leaflets  each,  and  small,  white 
flowers  in  drooping  racemes. 

ASIATIC  BLADDER-NUT  (S.  Colchica)  is  a  handsome 
spring-flowering  shrub,  with  clusters  of  fragrant  white 
flowers.  The  European  Bladder-nut  (S.  pinnatd)  is  a 
native  of  the  south  of  Europe,  resembles  our  native  spe- 
cies in  a  general  way,  but  rather  more  vigorous. 

THE  BLADDER  SENNA.        Colutea.       K 

The  COMMON  BLADDER  SENNA  (C.  arborescens)  is  a 
quick-growing  shrub,  with  fine,  light-green,  compound 
leaves,  and  bright,  yellowish,  pea-shaped  flowers  in  June 
and  July,  followed  by  bladder-like  pods,  E.  The  Orien- 
tal Bladder  Senna  (C.  cruenta)  is  a  smaller  species  than 
the  last,  with  reddish-colored  flowers.  Aleppo  Bladder 
Senna  ( C.  Halepica)  bears  a  general  resemblance  to  the 
first-named;  flowers  orange-colored. 

To  keep  the  Coluteas  furnished  with  branches  and 
foliage  at  the  bottom,  they  should  be  freely  cut  back  at 
times.  C.  arborescens  may,  however,  be  readily  trained 
into  a  very  pretty  tree. 

THE  PRIVET.     Ligustrum.     E. 

The  Privets  are  handsome  shrubs,  with  rich,  dark- 
green  leaves  of  waxy  texture,  and  which  come  early  and 
hang  until  the  winter;  they  also  produce  attractive 
flowers  in  early  summer.  They  are  well  adapted  for 
hedges,  and  possess  the  valuable  quality  of  growing  and 


82  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

flowering  well  in  partial  shade  and  even  under  trees. 
A  good,  strong  soil  is  preferred  by  them. 

The  COMMON  PRIVET  (L.  vulgare)  has  small,  shining, 
dark-green  leaves  and  white  flowers  in  terminal  panicles, 
which  are  succeeded  by  small,  black  berries.  Among  the 
varieties  of  the  Common  Privet  with  smallish  leaves,  are 
the  Box-leaved  Privet  (var.  buxifolia),  with  short,  thick 
leaves.  White-berried  Privet  (var.  leucocarpa),  with 
white  fruit,  and  the  Weeping  Privet  (var.  pendula],  of 
weeping  habit  and  quite  ornamental,  when  grafted  on 
other  stocks. 

There  are  several  varieties  with  much  larger  leaves 
than  the  common,  such  as  the  Oval-leaved  Privet  (L. 
ovalifolium),  and  the  Laurel-leaved  Privet  (L.  laurifo- 
lium),  all  of  which  are  very  attractive  with  rich,  waxy- 
looking  foliage,  and  are  pleasing  either  when  grown 
singly,  in  groups,  or  in  hedges. 

THE   OLEASTEE,    OR   WILD   OLIVE.       ElmgnUS.      E. 

The  SILVER-LEAVED  OLEASTER  (E.  argentea)  is  a 
strong-growing,  spreading  shrub,  with  delicate,  narrow, 
silvery  leaves,  that  give  it  a  peculiar  appearance,  and 
make  it  very  desirable  for  contrasting  with  other  trees 
and  shrubs.  Small  yellow  flowers  in  summer. 

GARDEN  or  EUROPEAN  OLEASTER  (E.  hortensis)  is 
an  elegant  species  of  stronger  growth  than  the  former 
one,  and  with  wider  leaves,  of  a  striking  silvery  color. 
It  is  covered  in  June  with  small  yellow  flowers,  having 
bright,  silvered  calyxes,  which  give  to  the  shrub  increas- 
ed whiteness  at  this  season.  The  sweetness  of  the 
flowers,  which  is  very  pleasant  and  marked,  is  wafted  for 
some  distance  on  the  air.  Very  desirable  for  contrasts; 
does  well  on  the  sea-shore.  The  Small-flowered  Oleaster 
(var.  nivea)  is  a  variety  of  the  last,  forming  a  fine  com- 


DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND   SHEUBS.  83 

pact  busk  with  silvery  leaves,  and  bearing  showy  fruit. 
Sometimes  used  for  hedges. 

There  are  several  Japanese  species,  among  them  E. 
lonyipes,  and  other  desirable  sorts,  possessing  the  general 
characteristics  of  the  genus. 

THE   FALSE   INDIGO.       AmOTphd.       G-H. 

Large  shrubs  of  open-growing,  almost  ungainly  habit, 
which  are  susceptible,  however,  of  improvement  in  this 
respect  by  pruning,  and  with  pleasing,  pinnate  foliage, 
that  contrasts  well  with  that  of  most  other  shrubs.  The 
Common  False  Indigo  (A.  fruticosd)  is  a  native  of  the 
Southern  and  Western  States,  but  hardy  at  the  North, 
producing  spikes  of  dark-purple  flowers  in  June,  G. 
Fragrant  Amorpha  (var.  angustifolia),  a  hairy  shrub, 
bearing  dark-colored  flowers  in  the  summer,  G.  The 
Lead-plant  (A.  canescens),  of  low  growth,  has  dark- 
blue  flowers  in  July  and  August,  H. 

THE   WINTEEBEKRY.       IUx,  §  PrinOS.       E-G. 

The  COMMON  WINTEEBEEEY,  or  BLACK  ALDEE  (7. 

verticillata) ,  is  a  fine  native  shrub,  related  to  the  Holly, 
with  glossy-red  berries  in  autumn  and  early  winter; 
should  be  planted  in  peaty  soil,  E.  Another  species,  the 
Smooth -leaved  Winterberry  (/.  Icevigata),  has  berries 
similar  to  the  preceding,  but  larger  and  earlier,  E.  There 
is  also  a  dwarf  evergreen  species,  known  as  the  Inkberry 
(7.  glabra),  the  fruit  of  which  is  black;  leaves  small  and 
lance-shaped,  G. 

THE  BUTTON-BUSH.     CepJialautJius  Occident  alls.     G. 

A  native  shrub,  growing  in  moist  places,  of  rounded 
form,  with  thick,  glossy  leaves,  and  globular  clusters  of 
yellowish-white  flowers  in  July  and  August.  Desirable 
for  planting  at  the  water's  edge. 


84  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

THE  CALYCANTHUS.     Calycantlms.     G. 

Shrubs  of  good  habit,  with  handsome,  rich  foliage ; 
fragrant  wood  and  flowers,  that  are  prized  for  their  pecu- 
liar sweetness,  color,  and  form. 

The  COMMON  CALYCANTHUS  (C.  jloridus),  also  called 
Carolina  Allspice  and  Sweet-scented  Shrub,  has  soft 
leaves,  downy  beneath;  double  chocolate-colored  flowers 
in  June, which  possess  a  rich,  strawberry-like  fragrance,  G. 

Of  other  species,  the  following  are  grown  for  orna- 
ment :  Glaucous-leaved  Calycanthus  (C.  glaucus),  with 
larger  and  handsomer  leaves  than  the  last.  Smooth- 
leaved  Calycanthus  (C.  favigatus) ;  Long-leaved  Caly- 
canthus (C.  elongatus);  Large-fruited  Calycanthus  (G. 
macrocarpus),  a  Californian  species,  tender  while  young. 

THE   FORSYTHIA    OR   GOLDEN   BELL.       ForsytlllCl.       G. 

FORTUNE'S  FORSYTHIA  (F.  Fortunei)  is  one  of  our  best 
hardy  shrubs,  of  strong-growing  habit,  handsome  foliage, 
which  hangs  until  late  in  the  autumn,  and  delightful, 
yellow,  drooping  flowers  very  early  in  the  spring,  G. 
The  Weeping  Forsy  thia  ( F.  suspensa)  is  of  slender,  strag- 
gling growth,  the  branches  curving  to  the  ground,  or 
they  may  be  trained  like  a  climber.  F.  viridissima  re- 
sembles Fortune's  in  its  flowers,  but  blooms  a  little  earlier, 
and  is  of  a  neat  habit,  with  rich-looking,  dark-green  foli- 
age, G. 

THE   HAZEL-NUT   OR   FILBERT.       CoryluS.       G. 

The  PURPLE-LEAVED  HAZEL  (C.  Avellana,  var.  pur- 
purea),  is  a  vigorous  shrub,  with  large  purple  leaves, 
which  give  it  a  fine  appearance,  making  it  valuable  for 
contrasts,  G.  The  American  Hazel  (C.  Americana)  is  an 
ornamental  shrub,  producing  delicious  nuts,  and  suitable 
for  any  large  collection  of  shrubs.  Tho  Cut-leaved 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  85 

Hazel  (C.  Avellana  laciniata)  has  deeply  cut  foliage,  that 
renders  the  shrub  very  ornamental.  The  Constantinople 
Hazel  (C.  Colurna)  is  a  strong  grower,  withjarge  leaves. 

THE   WHITE  ALDER  OR   CLETHRA.       Clethra.      G.-H. 

The  ALDER-LEAVED  CLETHRA  (C.  ainifolia),  also 
called  the  Sweet  Pepper-bush,  is  a  dense-growing,  native 
shrub,  with  light-green  foliage,  resembling  the  Alder, 
and  spikes  of  sweet,  white  flowers  in  mid-summer,  of 
which  the  honey-bee  is  fond,  H.  Acuminate-leaved 
Clethra  (C.  acuminata)  is  of  stronger  growth  and  has 
larger  leaves  than  the  last,  G. 

THE  CEANOTHUS.     CeauotTius.     G.-H. 

Shrubs  of  rather  small  value,  except  for  the  sake  of 
variety.  The  New  Jersey  Tea  or  American  Ceanothus 
(C.  Americanus)  has  small  racemes  of  white  flowers  from 
June  to  August,  H.  C.  thyrsiflorus  and  C.  velutinus 
are  natives  of  California  and  Oregon,  of  sub-evergreen 
character,  G. 

THE  CALLICARPA.     Callicarpa.     G. 

A  genus  of  low-growing  shrubs,  mostly  tender  ever- 
greens. C.  Americana,  also  called  the  "  French  MuL- 
berry,"  is  a  handsome,  somewhat  coarse,  deciduous 
shrub,  with  inconspicuous  flowers,  followed  by  violet- 
colored  berries.  The  Purple  Callicarpa  (C.  purpurea) 
is  a  species  from  China  and  Japan,  with  rather  brilliant, 
but  small,  purple  flowers  in  summer.  There  are  others 
from  Asia  which  must  be  classed  among  plants  too 
tender  for  general  planting. 

THR  BARBERRY.     Berberis.     G.-H. 

The  Barberries  are  a  useful  class  of  shrubs,  attractive 
in  their  style  of  growth,  their  foliage  and  their  fruit. 
Sometimes  they  are  used  in  ornamental  hedges. 


86  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

The  AMERICAN  BARBERRY  (B.  Canadensis)  is  of  erect 
habit  when  young,  but  in  time  the  branches  droop.  Yel- 
low flowers  in  spring,  followed  by  showy  red  berries. 

The  COMMON  EUROPEAN  BARBERRY  (B.  vulyaris)  is 
a  handsome  shrub,  the  branches  of  which  curve  out- 
wards and  downwards  with  exquisite  grace.  Small, 
rounded  leaves ;  yellow  flowers  in  the  spring,  followed  by 
clusters  of  brilliant  fruit,  G.  The  Purple-leaved  Bar- 
berry (var.  purpurea)  resembles  the  last  named  kind, 
but  in  addition  the  foliage  is  of  a  reddish-violet  color 
throughout  the  season,  serving  to  make  this  the  most 
valuable,  purple-leaved  shrub  in  cultivation,  H.  There 
is  also  a  Violet-fruited  Barberry  (var.  fructu  violacea). 
The  Evergreen  Barberries  will  be  found  under  Mahonia. 

THE  HYDRANGEA.     Hydrangea.     G. 

A  genus  embracing  some  of  the  most  attractive,  large- 
flowering  shrubs  in  cultivation.  The  Japanese  species 
are  the  most  valuable  for  flowers.  Of  these  the  follow- 
ing is  placed  first  on  the  list,  because  hardy  throughout 
the  United  States. 

The  PANICLED  HYDRANGEA  (H.  paniculata)  is  a  vig- 
orous-growing species,  with  upright  panicles  of  white 
flowers,  standing  well  above  the  foliage  in  July.  The 
Large-flowered  variety  of  this,  H.  paniculata  grandiflora, 
is  of  vigorous,  spreading  form,  with  immense  pyramidal 
panicles,  a  foot  or  more  long,  of  white  flowers  that  change 
to  pink.  The  plant  delights  in  rich  soil,  and  when  well 
provided  for  in  this  respect,  a  large  bush  will  sometimes 
bear  from  one  to  two  hundred  of  these  large  panicles — 
many  bending  gracefully  downwards. 

The  other  Japanese  species,  of  which  the  Common  or 
Changeable  Hydrangea  (H.  Hortensia)  is  a  type,  are  not 
hardy  in  the  North,  but  are  easily  grown  in  boxes,  while 
further  South  they  thrive  without  protection. 


DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND   SHEUBS.  87 

The  native  Hydrangeas  are  vigorous,  somewhat  coarse 
growers  and  hardy,  with  large  leaves  and  showy  heads  of 
flowers.  They  delight  in  deep  soil  and  moisture.  Of 
these  the  Oak-leaved  Hydrangea  (H.  quercifolia)  is  a 
vigorous,  shapely  grower,  with  large  leaves,  downy 
beneath,  and  richly  tinted  in  the  autumn  ;  white  flowers 
in  spikes.  H.  arborescens  has  ovate,  rarely  heart-shaped 
leaves,  and  white  flowers  in  flattened  heads.  H.  radiata, 
formerly  H.  nivea,  is  a  vigorous  grower,  with  the  leaves 
very  white  underneath. 

THE    FLOWERING   CURRANT.      Rifos.       G. 

Hardy,  vigorous,  profusely-flowering  shrubs,  very  at- 
tractive early  in  the  spring  when  in  bloom,  and  again  in 
autumn,  from  the  brilliant  colors  which  the  foliage 
assumes. 

The  YELLOW-FLOWERING  or  MISSOURI  CURRANT  (R. 
aureum)  is  a  well  known  species,  with  gay  and  sweet- 
scented  flowers  early  in  the  spring  and  shining  leaves. 

The  CRIMSON-FLOWERING  CURRANT  (R.  sanguineum) 
is  a  species  producing  many  deep-red  flowers  in  early 
spring.  Of  this  kind  there  are  several  varieties,  namely: 
var.  albidum  with  slightly  pinkish-white  flowers ;  var. 
carnea  with  flesh-colored  flowers  ;  Double  Crimson-flow- 
ering Currant  (flore  pleno)  with  double  crimson  flowers. 

GORDON'S  CURRANT  (R.  Gordonianum)  a  hybrid  be- 
tween the  yellow  and  the  crimson  sorts,  has  flowers  that 
combine  both  yellow  and  crimson  colors,  and  produced 
in  hanging  bunches  in  May. 

THE  JAPAN   QUINCE.      PyTUS.       G. 

The  Japan  Quinces  possess  a  number  of  qualities,  than 
which  nothing  more  desirable  could  be  wished  for  in  ornar 
mental  shrubs.  They  are  handsome  growers  and  assume 


88  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

fine  forms,  with  rich  glossy  foliage  and  flowers,  that  in 
point  of  brilliancy,  are  unequalled.  Whether  the  shrubs 
are  grown  as  single  specimens,  in  masses,  or  mingled  with 
other  shrubs,  the  effect  is  certain  to  be  fine.  They  are 
perfectly  adapted  for  making  hedges.  The  flowers  come 
very  early  in  the  spring,  covering  the  entire  plant,  while 
the  foliage  retains  its  beauty  until  late  in  the  fall. 

THE  SCARLET  JAPAN  QUINCE  (P.  Japonicd)  is  the 
species,  and  produces  bright  scarlet-crimson  flowers, 
with  great  freedom.  Of  this  there  are  numerous  varie- 
ties, which  are  equally  valuable  with  and  closely  resem- 
ble the  parent,  except  in  variation  of  the  colors  of  the 
flowers,  which  range  from  light-blush  to  the  most  brilliant 
orange-scarlet.  A  Variegated-leaved  sort  is  mentioned, 
which  I  have  not  seen. 

THE  COTONEASTER.     Cotoneaster.     G.-ff. 

Attractive  shrubs  when  well  grown,  but  they  must  be 
introduced  with  caution  in  the  Northern  States,  as 
most  of  them  would  be  liable  to  suffer  in  winter,  unless 
greatly  favored  in  regard  to  shelter. 

The  DOWNY  or  NEPAUL  COTONEASTER  (C.  affinis)  is 
one  of  the  hardiest,  with  smooth,  soft  leaves,  somewhat 
resembling  those  of  the  pear-tree,  and  producing  white 
flowers  in  May. 

The  FRIGID  COTONEASTER  (C.  frigida)  is  only  half 
hardy  ;  smooth,  pointed  leaves,  and  panicles  of  small, 
white  flowers.  The  Moneywort-leaved  Cotoneaster  (C. 
nummularia)  is  quite  hardy  as  well  as  handsome.  Some 
nurseries  furnish  it  grafted  on  Mountain  Ash,  in  which 
form  it  makes  a  beautiful,  small,  lawn  tree.  The  Bound- 
leaved  Cotoneaster  (C.  rotundifolia)  is  of  fine,  spreading 
habit,  white  flowers,  H.  The  Loose-flowering  Cotoneas- 
ter (C.  laxiflora)  is  also  a  dwarf  sort,  and  has  pinkish 
flowers. 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND   SHBUBS.  89 

Some  of  the  species  are  evergreen  and  of  prostrate 
growth,  very  suitable  for  edgings  and  rock-work,  but 
rather  tender.  Of  these  the  Box-leaved  Cotoneaster  (C. 
luxifolia)  is  very  dwarf,  producing  white  flowers  ;  and 
the  Small-leaved  Cotoneaster  (C.  microphylla)  with  at- 
tractive dark-green  leaves. 

ST.  JOHN'S  WORT.     Hypericum.     G. 

Pretty,  low  shrubs,  flowering  in  July  and  later,  and 
have  the  merit  of  succeeding  well  in  the  shade  and  under 
the  drip  of  trees. 

KALM'S  HYPERICUM  (H.  Kalmianum)  is  a  fine,  low 
shrub,  with  small,  oblanceolate  leaves,  and  bright  yellow 
flowers.  Shrubby  Hypericum  (H.  prolificum),  varying 
but  slightly  from  the  above,  having  clusters  of  larger 
flowers.  H.  calycinum  is  of  trailing  habit,  with  yellow 
flowers.  H.  patulum  is  a  Japanese  species,  said  to  be  at- 
tractive. 

THE  STTRAX.     Styrax.     G. 

The  JAPAN  STYRAX  (S.  Japonica)  is  a  low-growing 
shrub  of  picturesque  sppearance,  with  small,  Dogwood- 
like  leaves,  and  white,  bell-shaped  flowers.  Hardy  as 
far  north  as  New  York  City. 

THE  EXOCHORDA.     Exochordo,  grandiflora.     G. 

This  is  a  beautiful,  hardy  shrub  from  China,  closely 
related  to  the  Spiraeas,  but  distinct  from  them  in  habit 
and  appearance.  The  leaves  are  a  tender-green  in  color, 
and  the  flowers  pure  white,  opening  in  May. 

SPIR^A.     Spiraea.     E.-H. 

A  genus  containing  many  species,  among  which,  and 
their  varieties,  are  a  number  of  fine,  ornamental  shrubs. 
Only  the  most  valuable  kinds  are  here  noticed. 


90  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

REEVES'  SPIRJEA  (S.  Reevesiana,  S.  lanceolata  of  some), 
is  one  of  the  best  flowering  shrubs  in  cultivation.  It  has 
a  graceful,  slightly  drooping  habit,  and  narrow,  pointed 
leaves  of  good  color.  The  plant  in  June  is  covered  with 
clusters  of  pure-white  flowers,  making  it  highly  attrac- 
tive, H. 

FORTUNE'S  SPIR.EA  (S.  callcsd).  It  was  at  one  time 
supposed  that  this,  8.  callosa,  and  S.  Fortune*  were  the 
same,  but  they  are  now  regarded  as  distinct.  Fortune's 
name  has  become  in  the  catalogues  well  fixed  to  this 
plant,  though  it  really  belongs  to  8.  Fortunei.  All  con- 
fusion may  be  avoided  by  the  use  of  the  scientific  name, 
8.  callosa.  It  is  a  fine  species,  bearing  large  corymbs  of 
rose-colored  flowers  for  a  long  time.  There  is  a  white- 
flowered  variety  which  is  more  dwarf,  and  flowers  at  in- 
tervals all  through  the  season,  H. 

DOUGLAS'S  SPIRAEA  (S.  Douglasii.  S.  Menziesii,  and 
S.  Eximia  of  the  catalogues,  are  at  most  varieties  of 
this).  A  fine  species  of  upright  habit,  with  long  panicles 
of  rose-colored  flowers  in  June,  G. 

PLUM-LEAVED  SPIR^IA,  DOUBLE,  (S. prunifolia,  fl.pl), 
a  highly  esteemed  shrub  from  Japan,  densely  covered  in 
spring  with  double-white,  daisy-like  flowers..  Its  fine, 
glossy  leaves  assume  brilliant  tints  in  autumn,  G. 

THUNBERG'S  SPIRAEA  (8.  Thuiibergii),  a  distinct  and 
remarkably  fine  species  of  picturesque  habit.  The 
delicate,  very  narrow  leaves,  are  of  a  tender  green  color, 
which  in  autumn  change  to  reddish  shades.  Produces 
an  abundance  of  white  flowers  in  May,  H. 

GOLDEN-LEAVED  SPIRAEA  (a  variety  of  S.  opuUfolia, 
as  it  was  formerly  called,  but  the  species  is  now  placed 
in  the  genus  Neillid).  A  robust  variety  of  the  well- 
known  Nine-bark  ;  the-foliage  has  a  yellow  tinge  espec- 
ially early  in  the  season,  E. 

BILLARD'S  SPIR^A  (S.  salicifolia,  var.  Billardi),  a 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  91 

golden  variety  of  our  well-known  Meadow-sweet,  with 
very  showy,  pink  flowers  all  summer,  F. 

MOUNTAIN  ASH-LEAVED  SPIR^A  (8.  sorbifolia)  a 
vigorous  species,  with  large,  light-green,  pinnate  leaves, 
and  immense,  plume-like  panicles  of  white  flowers,  very 
ornamental  in  the  bud.  Early  summer,  E.  Other  species 
of  Spiraea  are  given  under  Herbaceous  Plants. 

THE  ROSE.     Rosa.     G-H. 

It  is  impossible  within  the  limits  of  the  present  work, 
to  touch  very  fully  on  the  Hose,  for  it  is  a  subject  that 
might  well  occupy  an  entire  book.  As  there  are  a  number 
of  excellent  works  devoted  exclusively  to  Kose  culture, 
the  necessary  information  respecting  kinds  and  culture  is 
easily  found.  Still  I  present  some  notes  on  the  various 
classes  of  Roses  in  cultivation,  and  also  throughout  the 
book  give  such  brief  hints  on  culture  and  other  points, 
as  may  be  useful  to  amateurs. 

It  may  be  remarked,  that  provided  the  soil  is  sufficient- 
ly well  drained  to  be  free  from  standing  water,  almost 
any  garden  soil,  with  good  preparation,  (see  Part  IV), 
will  answer  for  Eoses.  All  budded  roses  should,  in  plant- 
ing, be  set  so  deep  that  the  junction  of  the  stock 
and  the  rose  will  be  two  or  three  inches  below  the  sur- 
face of  the  soil,  so  that  the  root  may  give  the  least 
amount  of  trouble  from  sprouting.  The  Tree  Roses, 
which  are  so  popular  in  Europe,  are  comparatively 
worthless  in  America,  owing  to  the  bad  effects  of  our  hot 
summers  on  the  long  stem. 

As  to  insects,  "  these  are  the  bugbears,"  as  Mr.  H.  B. 
Ellwanger,  a  leading  American  authority  on  the  Rose, 
says,  "  which  prevent  many  from  cultivating  the  Queen 
of  Flowers,  but  they  offer  little  discouragement  to  loyal 
subjects,  for  generally  it  is  only  the  careless  and  indolent 
who  suffer  from  these  pests."  In  Part  V  of  this  book 
directions  are  given  for  destroying  insects  on  Roses. 


92  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

The  HYBRID  PERPETUAL,  or  HYBRID  REMONTANT 
ROSES  (R.  Damascena).  These  are,  all  things  consider- 
ed, the  most  desirable  class  of  hardy  Roses  for  garden 
culture.  The  plants  are,  as  a  rule,  when  fairly  treated, 
vigorous  in  habit,  and  producing  flowers,  that  for  perfect 
form,  fragrance,  handsome  and  brilliant  colors  are  un- 
equalled. Although  the  name  would  indicate  that  they 
are  perpetual  bloomers,  this  is  not  strictly  the  case.  All 
bloom  profusely  in  June,  and  some  of  the  more  prolific 
ones  yield  a  scattering  crop  of  flowers  later  in  the  season, 
with  an  increase  in  the  autumn.  Although  quite  hardy, 
it  is  best  to  protect  with  sfcraw  in  the  winter.  They 
should  be  planted  in  a  rich  soil.  Of  this  class,  there 
are  more  than  one  thousand  named  varieties  now  in  ex- 
istence. 

The  Moss  ROSES  (R.  centifolia  muscosa),  a  well-known 
and  much  esteemed  class,  which  receive  their  name  from 
the  delicate,  mossy  growth,  that  appears  on  the  calyx  or 
flower-cup.  The  flowers  are  most  prized  when  in  the 
bud  state,  but  some  of  the  kinds  are  very  attractive 
when  open.  The  so-called  Perpetual  Moss  Roses,  are  as 
a  class  inferior,  with  the  perpetual  quality  lacking.  All 
delight  in  liberal  culture. 

The  YELLOW,  or  AUSTRIAN  ROSES  (R.  lutea),  are  a  dis- 
tinct and  attractive  class,  numbering  but  few  varieties. 
These  are  usually  budded  on  the  stock  of  some  strong 
growing  kinds. 

The  COMMON  JUNE,  or  SUMMER  ROSES,  a  class  of 
hardy  Roses,  which  yield  an  abundant  crop  of  flowers  in 
many  colors  in  June.  Some  of  the  best  White  Roses 
come  under  this  head.  As  a  rule,  these  produce  flowers 
under  circumstances  that  would  be  unfavorable  to  other 
kinds;  still  they  will  repay  good  treatment  in  the  matter 
of  soil  and  cultivation. 

The  CLIMBING  ROSES.     There  are  a  number  of  differ- 


DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND  SHRUBS.  93 

ent  species  of  these,  which  possess  a  well-known  value 
for  covering  walls,  trellises,  etc.  The  Prairie  Roses  (R. 
rubifolia),  are  the  most  valuable  class  of  climbers,  and, 
unlike  most  others,  are  perfectly  hardy -in  the  Northern 
States. 

The  BOURBON  ROSES  (R.  Bourboniana)  belong  to 
the  half-hardy  division  of  the  so-called  Monthly  Roses ; 
being  the  hardiest  class  of  these,  and  usually  living 
through  the  winter  with  slight  protection,  in  all  but  the 
more  northern  parts  of  the  country,  if  growing  on  dry 
soil.  Of  vigorous  growth,  rich,  luxuriant  foliage,  and 
large,  well-shaped,  fragrant  flowers  of  good  colors,  and 
produced  in  clusters  nearly  all  summer. 

The  HYBRID  TEA  ROSES  (R.  Indica  odorata  Jiybrida). 
These  are  hybrids  between  the  tender  Tea  Roses  and  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals,  which  have  only  lately  been  brought 
out.  Originating  from  such  sources,  much  is  to  be  ex- 
pected from  them,  and  so  far  the  flowers  have  certainly 
proved  very  fine,  while  in  hardiness  it  is  believed  they 
may  equal  the  Bourbons,  or  perhaps  the  more  tender  Hy- 
brid Perpetuals. 

The  HYBRID  NOISETTE  ROSES  (R.  Noisettiana  Jiy- 
brida),  mostly  crosses  between  Remontant,  Bourbon,  and 
Noisette  Roses,  and  of  the  same  general  hardiness  as  the 
Bourbons.  The  flowers  are  mostly  white,  or  tinted,  of 
small  size  but  good  form,  and  very  freely  produced  in 
quickly  succeeding  crops  throughout  the  growing  season. 

The  BENGAL,  or  CHINA  ROSES  (R.  Indica),  a  class 
of  free  Summer-flowering  or  Monthly  Roses,  with  small, 
bright-colored  flowers  and  buds,  which  show  up  brilliant- 
ly as  seen  from  a  distance,  as  well  as  near  by.  The 
flowers  are  usually  semi-double  to  double.  Require  pro- 
tection in  the  North. 

The  TEA  ROSES  (R.  Indica  odorata).  These  are  more 
tender  than  any  of  the  previously  named  classes,  and  can- 


94  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

not  be  depended  upon  for  keeping  over  winter  in  the 
Northern  States,  DO  matter  how  well  protected.  But  the 
plants,  maybe  potted  and  housed  in  the  green-house,  or  a 
cold  pit  at  the  approach  of  winter,  and  then  be  set  out 
again  in  the  next  spring  with  good  results.  The  Teas 
are  in  many  respects  the  most  delightful  of  all  Roses, 
and  it  is  well  worth  while  to  be  at  some  trouble  in  thus 
keeping  them  over.  They  are  almost  perpetually  in 
bloom  when  in  a  growing  condition. 

THE   BRAMBLE.        Ru1)US.      H. 

Clumps  of  Bramble-bushes,  while  they  might  seem 
out  of  place  in  small  grounds  where  everything  intro- 
duced should  be  of  the  choicest  kind,  still  they  look 
very  well  in  the  Wild  Garden,  with  their  free  wild  habits 
and  really  attractive  flowers. 

The  PURPLE  BRAMBLE  (R.  odoratus),  also  called 
Flowering  Raspberry,  forms  a  clump  of  vigorous  canes, 
which  produce  showy,  fragrant  flowers  of  a  rich  purple 
color  for  a  long  time  in  summer,  H. 

The  WHITE  BRAMBLE  (R.  NutTcanus}  has  coarse, 
toothed  leaves,  and  fewer  flowers  than  the  above ;  the 
petals  are  narrow  and  white,  H. 

The  DOUBLE  BLACKBERRY  (R.  fruticosus)  has  curi- 
ous, fine,  double  flowers,  or  masses  of  narrow  petals. 
The  Cut,  or  Parsley-leaved  Bramble  (var.  laciniatus),  is 
of  low  trailing  habit,  and  produces  palatable  fruit.  R. 
cratcegifolius  is  of  robust  erect  habit,  with  large  leaves 
of  a  deep-green  color,  turning  to  a  dark-red  in  autumn. 

THE  AZALEA.     Azalea.     G-H. 

The  Native  Azaleas  are  attractive  shrubs,  producing 
umbelled  clusters  of  showy  flowers  ;  they  are  most  effec- 
tive in  the  garden  when  planted  in  clumps.  These  plants 


DECIDUOUS  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  95 

are  much  prized  abroad,  being  especially  very  common  in 
English  and  Dutch  gardens.  They  require  a  soil  con- 
taining a  good  share  of  leaf  mould  or  muck,  and  do  not 
object  to  partial  shade.  Some  of  the  foreign  varieties 
are  only  half-hardy. 

Of  natives,  all  of  which  flower  early  in  the  season,  the 

SMOOTH  AZALEA  (A.  arborea)  has  thickish  leaves, 
and  sweet,  white  and  rose-colored  flowers,  H.  G. 

The  CLAMMY  or  SWAMP  AZALEA  (A.  viscosa),  also 
called  White  Swamp  Honeysuckle,  has  rich,  green  foliage, 
and  rose-tinted  flowers.  There  is  a  variation  of  the 
common  type  with  paler,  often  whitish  green  leaves,  and 
a  dwarfish  growth,  H. 

The  PURPLE  AZALEA,  or  PINXTER  FLOWER  (A.  nudi- 
flora),  is  of  dwarf  habit,  with  showy  flowers,  varying 
from  flesh -color  to  pink  and  purple,  H. 

The  FLAME-COLORED  AZALEA  (A.  cdlendulacea)  has 
large,  changeable,  orange-colored  blossoms,  H. 

A.  mollis,  and  A.  Pontica,  are  Asiatic  species,  the  for- 
mer with  numerous  varieties,  and  yielding  large,  showy 
flowers,  and  the  latter  with  yellow  flowers.  These  need 
thorough  protection  in  the  North  in  winter.  The  Bel- 
gian or  Ghent  Azaleas  are  a  beautiful  class  of  hybrids, 
between  A.  Pontica  and  the  American  species.  There 
are  a  multitude  of  handsome  varieties,  mostly  in  the  line 
of  yellow,  orange,  scarlet,  crimson,  rose,  pink,  and 
white  colors,  and  some  are  fragrant.  This  class  are  near- 
ly hardy  in  the  North. 

THE  DEUTZIA.     Deutzia.     O-H. 

The  Deutzias  are  valuable  low  shrubs  from  Japan,  that 
are  universally  esteemed  for  their  hardiness,  good  forms, 
and  free-flowering  habits,  producing  a  great  profusion  of 
delicately- formed,  white,  or  tinted  flowers  in  June. 

The  GRACEFUL,  or  SLENDER  DEUTZIA  (D.  gracilis], 


96  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

is  of  low,  compact  growth,  with  pure  white  flowers;  may 
be  sheared  to  a  perfect  globe,  H.  There  is  a  variegated 
form  of  this  that  possesses  but  little  value. 

The  CRENATE-LEAVED  DEUTZIA  (D.  crenata)  is  of 
stronger  growth  than  the  last  named  species,  with  white 
flowers  tinged  with  pink,  H.  The  Double-flowering 
Deutzia  (var.  flore  plena),  a  variety  of  the  last,  with 
handsome  double-white  flowers  tinged  with  pink,  in  ra- 
cemes four  or  five  inches  long,  and  coming  in  bloom 
somewhat  late,  H.  There  are  several  other  varieties  of 
this  valuable  species,  var.  flore  albo  plena,  with  pure 
white,  double  flowers;  var.  purpureo  pleno,  with  double, 
purple-tinged  flowers ;  the  variety,  Pride  of  Rochester, 
has  larger  and  more  double  white  flowers  than  the  com- 
mon double. 

The  ROUGH-LEAVED  DEUTZIA  (D.  scdbra)  is  the 
strongest  grower  of  the  genus,  with  pure  white  flowers 
freely  produced.  It  is  much  less  common  than  D.  cre- 
nata, which  is  often  sent  out  for  it,  G.  There  are  some 
others,  but  they  vary  little  from  those  described. 

THE  SNOWBERRY,  OR  WAXBERRY.  Symphoricarpus.  G-H. 

The  Snowberry,  or  the  White-fruited  Waxberry  (8. 
racemosus),  is  a  well-known  shrub  of  good  quality,  but 
valued  chiefly  for  the  snow-white  waxy  berries  it  bears  in 
the  latter  part  of  the  season. 

The  RED-FRUITED  WAXBERRY,  or  INDIAN  CURRANT 
(S.  vulgaris),  is  a  handsomer  shrub  than  the  last,  with 
gracefully  curving  branches,  small,  round  leaves,  but 
with  inconspicuous  reddish  fruit.  There  is  a  pleasing 
Variegated-leaved  Waxberry,  a  form  of  the  last,  with 
golden  mottled  foliage,  rendering  the  plant  very  effective 
for  contrasting  with  other  shrubs,  H. 


DECIDUOUS   TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  97 

THE   JAPAN  GLOBE-FLOWER,  OR  CORCHORUS.    Kerria.    H. 

Very  desirable  small  shrubs  of  compact  growth,  if  oc- 
casionally pruned.  The  Japan  Corchorus  (K.  Japonica) 
is  a  slender  green-branched  shrub,  with  pointed  leaves 
and  globular,  double,  yellow  flowers.  The  Silver-leaved 
Corchorus  (var.  foliis  variegatis)  is  a  handsome,  low, 
variegated-leaved  shrub,  of  excellent  quality,  and  pro- 
ducing a  fine  effect  when  planted  to  contrast  with  other 
shrubs. 

THE  ANDROMEDA.     Andromeda.     H. 

A  genus  of  deciduous  and  evergreen  native  shrubs, 
seldom  seen  in  our  gardens,  but  highly  esteemed  in  Euro- 
pean collections  of  "American  Plants."  By  using  some 
muck  in  the  soil — aiming  to  imitate  the  soils  of  their 
natural  habitats — they  may  be  made  to  thrive  very  suc- 
cessfully almost  anywhere. 

A.  Mariana,  known  as  the  Stagger-Bush,  has  glossy 
oval  leaves,  and  nodding  clusters  of  white  flowers;  grows 
wild  in  sandy,  low  places. 

The  FREE-BLOOMING  ANDROMEDA  (A.  floribunda), 
and  the  Marsh  Andromeda  (A.  poli folia)  are  evergreen 
species,  but  differing  greatly.  The  former  is  a  very  leafy 
and  charming  evergreen  shrub,  bearing  an  abundance  of 
white  flowers,  G-H\  the  latter  a  very  small  bush,  rarely 
exceeding  a  foot  and  a  half  in  hight,  with  thick  linear 
leaves,  white  beneath.  Both  are  hardy. 

CATESBY'S  ANDROMEDA,  botanically  separated  from 
Andromeda,  and  now  Leucothoe  Catesbcei,  is  also  ever- 
green, with  long,  recurving  branches,  ovate-lanceolate 
leaves  and  white  flowers. 

The  LEATHER-LEAF  (Cassandra  calyculata}  is  closely 
related  to  the  Andromedas,  and  still  classed  with  them 
by  some.  *  It  is  a  small  branching  shrub,  with  dusty- 
5 


98  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

looking,  oblong  leaves,  and  pretty,  white   flowers   in  a 
one-sided  cluster,  H. 

THE  DAPHNE.     Daphne.     H. 

The  MEZEEON  (Daphne  Mezerum)  is  the  earliest  flow- 
ering of  all  our  shrubs  ;  of  pleasing  growth  ;  with 
many  small,  fragrant,  pinkish  flowers.  There  is  a  White- 
flowering,  and  also  a  Purple-leaved  variety  of  this,  the 
latter  with  showy  foliage. 

The  GARLAND  FLOWER  (Daphne  Cneorum)  is  an  ever- 
green species,  a  native  of  the  mountains  of  Switzerland, 
of  dwarf  trailing  habit,  adapted  to  use  on  rock-work  ; 
light  crimson  flowers  early  in  the  spring  ;  requires  pro- 
tection in  winter  at  the  North  in  severe  localities. 

THE  SHRUBBY  ciNQUEFOTL.      Potentilla  fruticosa.      H. 

A  much  branching,  low  shrub,  with  small,  pinnate 
leaves,  the  leaflets  closely  crowded,  which  give  the  plant 
a  singular  appearance.  Flowers  bright-yellow,  produced 
freely  in  summer. 

THE  BATBERRY  OR  WAX  MYRTLE.     Myrica  cerifera.    H. 

A  native  shrub,  of  low,  irregular  growth,  and  dark, 
shining  green,  slightly  notched,  very  fragrant  leaves, 
which  are  almost  evergreen.  Grows  best  in  moist  places. 


EVERGREEN  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  99 

CHAPTEE  VII. 
EVERGREEN    TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

Under  this  head  are  embraced  the  conifers  or  cone- 
bearing,  and  other  trees  and  shrubs  that  hold  the  leaves 
over  winter.  The  conifers,  as  a  rule,  will  thrive  in  any 
well-drained,  loamy  soil,  that  is  moderately  rich,  but  they 
mostly  prefer  a  light  one  that  is  porous  and  open.  If 
the  more  delicate  and  half-hardy  species  cannot  be  given 
such  soil,  it  is  scarcely  worth  while  to  plant  them,  for 
in  any  other,  the  growth  will  not  be  completed  early 
enough  in  the  season  to  ensure  the  proper  ripening  of 
the  wood  to  enable  them  to  endure  the  winter.  A  few 
evergreen  shrubs  have  been  described  under  Thorn, 
Cotoneaster,  Daphne,  Andromeda,  and  Winterberry, 
with  the  deciduous  species  of  the  same  genera. 

THE  PINE.     Pinus.     A.-E. 

Many  of  the  Pines,  in  their  numerous  species  and 
varieties,  are  unsurpassed  in  beauty  for  ornamental 
planting,  being  especially  effective  in  masses,  while  most 
of  them  are  hardy.  Being  somewhat  difficult  to  trans- 
plant, a  preference  should  always  be  given,  if  possible, 
to  trees  that  have  been  root-pruned  in  the  nurseries 
where  they  were  grown. 

Of  those  Pines  that  have  two  leaves  in  a  sheath,  the 
following,  among  large  growers,  are  considered  the  best : 

The  AUSTRIAN  or  BLACK  PINE  (P.  Austriaca),  of 
robust,  spreading  habit  and  luxuriant  growth,  with  long, 
dark-green,  leaves,  A. 

The  CORSICAN  PINE  (P.  Laricio),  a  distinct,  hand- 
some grower,  with  long,  dark-green,  twisted  leaves ;  gen* 
erally  hardy,  A. 


100  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

TATJBIAN  PINE  (P.  Pallasiana),  of  roundish,  compact 
form,  with  bluish-green  leaves ;  generally  hardy,  A. 

CLUSTER  PINE  (P.  Pinaster),  a  beautiful  specie^,  with 
the  leaves  in  dense  whorls  ;  not  reliable  in  the  Northern 
States,  succeeds  well  near  the  sea,  A. 

PYRENEAN  PINE  (P.  Pyrenaica),  a  beautiful,  hardy 
species,  with  long,  soft  leaves  ;  of  picturesque  spreading 
growth,  A. 

SCOTCH  PINE  (P.  sylvestris),  very  hardy,  of  rapid 
growth  in  any  soil,  making  it  valuable  for  screens ;  short, 
rigid,  light-green  leaves,  A. 

HIGHLAND  PINE  (var.  horizontalis),  a  variety  of  the 
Scotch  Pine,  with  the  branches  more  horizontal,  and 
with  broader  leaves,  covered  with  bloom. 

SHORT-LEAVED  YELLOW  PINE  (P.  mitis),  a  handsome 
native,  forming  a  fine  specimen  tree,  with  slender  leaves 
often  of  a  bright,  bluish-green  color. 

Of  dwarf  sorts,  with  two  leaves  in  a  sheath,  may  be 
named  the 

MUGHO  PINE  (P.  Muglio),  a  superior  species  for  small 
grounds,  with  handsome,  short,  stiff,  dark-green  foliage, 
E.;  var.  compacta  is  a  very  symmetrical  compact  variety 
of  this  ;  var.  rotunda  is  another  variety  of  more  rounded 
habit  than  the  parent. 

DWARF  or  MOUNTAIN  PINE  (P.  pumilio),  of  small, 
often  bushy,  or  creeping  habit,  with  silvery-green  foli- 
age, G. 

TABLE  MOUNTAIN  PINE  (P.  pungens),  a  handsome, 
hardy  species,  with  rigid,  stout,  pale-green  leaves,  and 
producing  many  cones  in  masses. 

The  species  of  Pine  with  three  leaves  in  a  sheath 
usually  become  large  trees  in  time. 

BENTHAM'S  PINE  (P.  Benthamiana),  a  handsome, 
rapid  grower,  with  long,  dark-green,  slender,  drooping 
leaves,  A. 


EVERGREEN   TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  101 

The  HEAVY-WOODED  PINE  (P.  ponder osa),  with  leaves 
almost  as  long  as  the  last,  but  more  erect  and  of  a  sil- 
very-green color  ;  an  attractive  and  imposing  tree,  A. 

The  JEFFREY'S  PINE  (P.  Jeffreyii)  is  a  vigorous,  tall 
species,  with  long,  deep,  bluish-green  leaves,  A. 

SABINE'S  PINE  (P.  Sabiniana}  is  a  majestic  tree, 
valuable  as  a  single  specimen,  with  long,  twisted,  droop- 
ing leaves  of  a  silvery-gray  color,  A. 

The  PITCH  PINE  (P.  riyida)  is  a  tall  tree,  with  rigid, 
dark -green  foliage  and  dark  bark,  B. 

Of  Pines  with  five  leaves  in  a  sheath,  those  immediate- 
ly following  are  tall,  and  the  others  dwarfish. 

The  WHITE  or  WEYMOUTH  PINE  (P.  Strobus),  the 
most  ornamental  of  all  our  native  Pines,  and  especially 
valuable  on  account  of  bearing  the  shears  well ;  of  quiet 
grandeur,  with  light,  glistening,  silvery-green  foliage, 
flourishes  in  any  soil,  A.  D.  The  Compact  White  Pine 
(P.  Strobus  compactd),  a  valuable  dwarf,  forming  a 
rounded  head  of  light-green  foliage,  excellent  for  mass- 
ing, G.  Silver-white  Pine  (var.  alba,  syn.  nivea),  a 
handsome  dwarf  variety  of  the  White  Pine,  with  shorter 
leaves,  silvery-white  \vhen  young,  changing  to  dark- 
green. 

CALIFORNIA  MOUNTAIN  PINE  (P.  monticola)  resem- 
bles the  last  somewhat,  but  the  leaves  are  slightly  shorter 
and  obtuse,  of  a  glaucous  green. 

LAMBERT'S  PINE  (P.  Lambertiana),  a  large  tree,  with 
stiff,  yellowish-green  leaves  four  to  six  inches  long. 

LOFTY  BHOTAN  PINE  (P.  excelsa),  a  hardy,  vigorous 
species  from  India,  resembling  the  White  Pine,  but  with 
larger  and  more  pendulous  foliage ;  sometimes  affected 
by  our  hot  suns,  A. 

There  are  several  desirable  varieties  given  in  the  nur- 
sery catalogues. 


102  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

The  SWISS-STONE  PINE  (P.  Cembra)  is  a  handsome, 
slow-growing,  cone-shaped  tree,  with  dense  and  remark- 
bly  dark-green  foliage,  G.  Var.  pygmcea  is  a  desirable 
little  dwarf,  with  very  short  leaves,  H. 

There  are  many  other  Pines,  including  some  from 
Japan,  but  the  above  lists,  it  is  believed,  embrace  about 
all  that  are  desirable  for  general  culture. 

THE   SPRUCE,    HEMLOCK,    AND   FIR.       AUeS.        A.  H. 

The  trees  known  by  these  names  are  all  now  classed 
under  the  one  genus,  Abies.  All  things  considered,  they 
are  together  the  most  valuable  genus  of  ornamental  ever- 
greens for  the  American  climate.  Mostly  of  rapid 
growth,  handsome  forms,  and  excellent  colors,  they 
thrive  in  almost  any  place  and  soil,  and  are  well  adapted 
for  growing  either  as  single  specimens,  in  masses,  or  in 
hedges.  Of  the  Spruce  section  the 

NORWAY  SPRUCE  (A.  excelsa)  is  the  best  known 
species,  being  an  elegant  tree  of  great  hardiness,  and  free 
growth  ;  at  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  in  hight  the  branches 
droop  gracefully,  but  the  tree  assumes  a  somewhat  coarse 
appearance  at  such  an  age,  which,  while  appearing  to 
good  effect  in  large  areas,  is  not  so  pleasing  in  small 
grounds,  and  this  may  be  prevented  by  controlling  the 
growth  to  a  much  smaller  hight  by  clipping ;  it  is  one 
of  the  best  hedge  plants  known,  A.  Of  this  species 
there  are  many  valuable  varieties,  embracing,  among 
others,  the  following  :  Barry's  Spruce  (var.ltorryu),  ele- 
gant, and  smaller  growing  than  the  parent  form.  Fine- 
don  Hall  Spruce  (var.  Mnedonensis),  compact,  with 
yellow-tinged  leaves  on  the  upper  sides  of  the  shoots. 
Inverted-branched  Spruce  (var.  inverta),  very  desirable, 
with  large,  bright  foliage  and  weeping  branches.  Pyra- 
midal Spruce  (var.  pyramidalis),  of  a  symmetrical  pyra- 
midal form,  without  pruning.  Clanbrasil's  Dwarf  Spruce 


EVERGREEN   TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  103 

(var.  Clanbrasiliana),  very  dwarf  and  symmetrical,  with 
small  foliage,  one  of  the  most  valuable  of  the  very  small 
Spruces.  Ellwangers  Dwarf  Spruce  (var.  Ellwangeriana), 
a  distinct  and  valuable  variety ;  the  leaves  project  in  a 
bristle-like  manner.  Gregory's  Dwarf  Spruce  (var.  Greg- 
oriana),  hemispherical,  very  dense,  an  excellent  small 
dwarf.  Maxwell's  Dwarf  Spruce  (var.  Maxwelliana), 
dwarf,  compact  and  regular,  forms  a  dense,  hemispheri- 
cal mass.  Small-formed  Spruce  (var.  parviformis), 
small  and  distinct.  Conical  Spruce  (var.  conica),  dense, 
conical-form  ;  valuable.  Pigmy  Dwarf  Spruce  (var. 
pygmcea),  the  dwarfest  form  of  the  Spruces.  The  var. 
tortuosa  compacta  is  of  dwarf,  spreading  habit,  with  the 
young  branches  curiously  twisted. 

The  WHITE  SPRUCE  (A.  alba)  is  another  species  of 
compact  growth,  with  light-colored  bark,  and  foliage  of 
a  light  glaucous  green,  B.  There  arc  several  varie- 
ties embracing  the  Glaucous  Spruce  (var.  ccerulea),  a 
small  and  beautiful  tree,  with  bluish-green  foliage,  and 
spreading  habit.  Dwarf  White  Spruce  (var.  nana),  of 
small,  compact  form,  but  resembling  the  species  in  other 
respects. 

The  BLACK  SPRUCE  (A.  nigra)  is  a  native  species,  of 
no  high  merit  for  ornament.  The  Dwarf  Black  Spruce 
(var.  pumila)  is  a  fine  dwarf  variety,  forming  a  cushion 
or  ball  of  small,  dark-green  foliage,  H.  Doumet's  Spruce 
(Donmeti)  is  another  handsome  dwarf  variety,  of  com- 
pact growth  and  bluish  leaves. 

ALCOCK'S  SPRUCE  (A.  Alcoquiana}  is  a  distinct  species 
from  Japan,  not  thoroughly  tested  yet,  but  promising 
well ;  deep-green,  glaucous  leaves. 

MENZIES'  SPRUCE  or  COLORADO  BLUE  SPRUCE  (A. 
Menziesii),  one  of  the  hardiest  and  most  beautiful  species, 
nntil  it  attains  to  about  thirty  feet  in  hight ;  compact, 
with  broad,  sharply-pointed,  bright,  bluish-gray  leaves,^!. 


104  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

DOUGLAS'  SPRUCE  (A.  Douglasii),  of  pyramidal  habit, 
and  in  foliage  resembling  the  Hemlock  ;  said  to  improve 
with  age  for  generations,  A. 

HIMALAYAN  or  SMITH'S  SPRUCE  (A.  Smithiana),  var- 
iable as  to  hardiness  in  the  Northern  States,  habit  sin- 
gularly graceful,  and  with  light-green,  glaucous  foliage. 
Obovate-coned  Spruce  (A.  obovata),  resembles  the  Norway 
Spruce,  but  slower  growing  and  more  slender.  Oriental 
or  Eastern  Spruce  (A.  orietitalis)  somewhat  resembling 
the  last,  and  remarkable  for  its  graceful  habit ;  needs 
protection  in  northern  localities  while  young.  Abies 
polita,  from  Japan,  is  a  very  handsome  tree  of  erect 
habit,  with  sharply-pointed,  bright-green  leaves. 

In  the  Hemlock  section  of  this  genus  are  a  number  of 
valuable  ornamental  sorts. 

The  HEMLOCK  SPRUCE  (A.  Canadensis)  is  a  well- 
known  native  species,  of  excellent  quality  for  the  lawn, 
and  as  a  hedge  plant.  The  drooping  branches  give  the 
tree  a  graceful  appearance.  Foliage  delicate  and  dark, 
like  that  of  the  Yew ;  delights  in  deep,  moist  loam, 
and  does  not  object  to  some  shade,  B.  Of  varieties  of 
the  above  there  are  the  Dwarf  Hemlock  Spruce  (var. 
nana),  forming  a  compact,  conical  bush ;  the  Dense 
Hemlock  Spruce  (var.  densa),  of  handsome,  dwarf, 
dense  form;  Sargent's  Weeping  Hemlock  (var.  Sargentii), 
a  dense,  irregularly,  weeping  form,  with  graceful,  spray- 
like  branches,  like  an  evergreen  fountain  ;  remarkably 
handsome  and  hardy  ;  the  Small-leaved  Hemlock  Spruce 
(var.  micropliylla),  a  slow  grower,  compact,  picturesque, 
and  full  of  deep  shadows  ;  heavy,  dark -green  leaves. 
There  are  several  other  varieties  of  no  marked  merit. 

Among  the  Firs  are  many  fine  ornamental  trees. 

The  BALSAM  FIR  (A.  balsamea)  is  a  well-known 
species  of  most  handsome  appearance  while  young,  with 
dark-green  foliage. 


EVEEGEEEN   TEEES   AND   SHEUBS.  105 

NOEDMANN'S  SILVEE  FIE  (A.  Nordmanniana),  an  ex- 
ceedingly handsome  and  stately  tree,  with  massive,  shiny, 
dark-green  verdure,  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves  slight- 
ly glaucous.  Hardy  in  Buffalo,  A. 

NOBLE  FIE  (A.  noMlis),  a  noble  tree  of  symmetrical 
growth,  and  regular,  spreading  branches  ;  foliage  of  a 
rich,  glaucous  green  on  both  sides.  Hardy  at  Philadel- 
phia, A. 

The  GEEAT  SILVEE  FIE  (A.  grandis),  of  lofty  pyra- 
midal form,  and  dark-green  leaves,  A. 

CEPHALONIAN  SILVEE  FIE  (A.  Cephalonica),  a  beauti- 
ful, vigorous  species,  broad  for  its  hight,  when  young; 
leaves  silvery  and  dagger-shaped  ;  of  doubtful  hardiness 
in  the  Northern  States. 

SIBEEIAN  SJLVEE  FIE  (A.  Pichta)  is  a  handsome, 
hardy,  medium-sized  tree  of  conical  growth,  and  dense, 
dark-green  foliage,  B. 

CILICIAN  SILVEE  FIE  ( A.  Gilicicd),  of  compact  growth, 
and  dark  foliage. 

HUDSON'S  BAY  DWAEF  FIE  (A.  Fraseri,  var.  Hndso- 
nica),  a  very  dwarf  and  hardy  species,  with  the  leaves  of  a 
charming  dark-green,  and  glaucous  underneath,  valuable 
for  rock-work,  H. 

The  following  named  Firs  are  also  desirable  for  orna- 
ment. Lovely  Silver  Fir  (A.  amabilis),  with  bushy 
branches  and  dark-green  leaves,  silvery  beneath,  A;  Pin- 
sapo  Fir  (A.  Pinsapo),  of  handsome,  compact  growth, 
with  deep,  shining  green,  very  pointed  leaves;  not  hardy 
in  the  North.  The  European  Silver  Fir  (A.  pectinata) 
is  a  fine  species,  with  spreading,  horizontal  branches,  and 
broad  silvery  foliage,  somewhat  tender  in  the  North. 
The  Dwarf  Silver  Fir  (var.  compacta),  and  the  Weeping 
Silver  Fir  (var.  penduld),  both  varieties  of  the  European, 
are  handsome  trees,  but  rather  tender  in  the  North. 


106  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

THE  CYPRESS.     Cupressus.     A. 

A  genus  not  generally  hardy  north  of  Philadelphia, 
but  of  great  value  wherever  they  stand  the  winters. 
They  may  be  tried,  however,  throughout  the  North  on 
high,  dry  spots,  with  some  hopes  of  success  with  them. 

LAWSON'S  CYPRESS  (C.  Lawsoniana)  is  of  rapid 
growth  and  delicate  beauty,  with  drooping  branches  and 
slender  branchlets,  that  look  like  glaucous-green  plumes, 
A.  Pyramidal  Lawson's  Cypress  (var.  pyramidalis),  a 
variety  more  heavily  furnished  with  foliage,  and  more 
erect  than  the  above,  A.  Upright  Lawson's  Cypress 
(var.  erecta),  of  very  erect,  dense  habit  of  growth. 
Weeping  Lawson's  Cypress  (var.  pendula),  of  graceful, 
drooping  habit,  and  shining,  silvery  foliage.  Silver 
Lawson's  Cypress  (var.  argentea),  a  handsome,  compact 
grower,  with  glaucous  leaves,  slightly  drooping.  Vari- 
egated-leaved Lawson's  Cypress  (var.  variegata),  foliage 
dotted  and  blotched  with  golden  yellow;  should  have 
partial  shade. 

The  NOOTKA  SOUND  CYPRESS  (C.  Nutkaensis)  ;  by 
some  classed  as  Thujopsis  borealis,  is  the  hardiest  of  the 
genus;  a  free  pyramidal  grower,  with  light,  glossy  foliage. 

The  WHITE  CEDAR  (C.  thyoides)  is  a  hardy  native 
species,  forming  a  fair  lawn  tree,  and  useful  for  hedges; 
has  fine,  glaucous-green  foliage.  There  are  several  varieties 
of  this  ;  the  Dwarf  White  Cedar  (var.  nana)  is  of  dimin- 
utive form,  and  the  Variegated  White  Cedar  (var.  vari- 
egata) has  branches  of  a  green  and  golden  color. 

THE  CEDAR.     Cedrus.     A. 

The  true  Cedars,  of  which  the  Cedar  of  Lebanon, 
mentioned  in  Sacred  History,  is  a  representative,  are  all 
too  tender  to  be  thoroughly  reliable  in  the  Northern 
States,  but  form  noble  trees  south  of  Philadelphia. 


EVERGREEN   TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  107 

Sometimes,  however,  they  succeed  in  favorable  situations 
north  of  this.  What  are  known  commonly  as  the  Red 
Cedar  and  White  Cedar  do  not  belong  to  the  genus  Cedrus. 

The  CEDAR  OF  LEBANON  (C.  Libani)  is  a  grand, 
spreading  tree,  with  massive,  dark-green  foliage.  Al- 
though tender  when  young,  its  hardiness  increases  with 
age,  A. 

MOUNT  ATLAS  CEDAR  (C.  Atlantica)  is  of  pyramidal 
form,  with  light,  silvery  foliage,  and  is  quite  hardy. 

DEODAR  or  INDIAN  CEDAR  (C.  Deodara)  is  a  charm- 
ing evergreen  of  pyramidal  form,  but  with  graceful 
drooping  branches,  and  glaucous  green  foliage.  A  fine 
tree  for  the  Southern  States. 

The  JAPAN  CEDAR  (Cryptomeria  Japonica),  belong- 
ing to  another  genus,  is  a  beautiful  conifer,  only  suitable 
for  culture  at  Baltimore  and  southward,  B. 

The  CALIFORNIA  WHITE  CEDAR  (Libocedrus  decur- 
rens)  is  also  of  a  distinct  genus.  It  is  from  California, 
and  too  tender  for  general  culture  in  the  North,  but  one 
of  the  finest  evergreens  for  the  South,  B. 

THE  ARBOR  VIT^S  and  RETINISPORAS.    Thuja  and  Biota. 
A-C. 

The  members  of  the  two  genera,  Thuja  and  Biota,  are 
both  popularly  known  by  the  name  of  Arbor  Vitse.  The 
Retinisporas,  formerly  classed  as  a  distinct  genus,  have 
been  added  to  Thuja,  as  they  are  not  botanically  distinct. 
As  they  were  introduced  as  Retinisporas,  and  are  under 
that  name  in  all  the  catalogues,  it  is  convenient  to  retain 
it  as  a  garden  name. 

AMERICAN  ARBOR  Vnm  (Thuja  occidentalis),  also 
called  in  some  localities  White  Cedar,  is  a  perfectly  hardy 
tree,  of  rapid  growth  under  favorable  conditions,  assum- 
ing a  conical  form,  but  possessing  less  beauty  than  some 
of  its  varieties,  owing  to  the  tame  color  of  its  foliage; 


108  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

valuable  for  screens  and  hedges.  Among  its  varieties, 
the  Siberian  Arbor  Vitae  (var.  Sibirica,  syn.  Warreana), 
is  one  of  the  best,  and  scarcely  excelled  as  a  fine  ever- 
green; very  hardy,  of  conical  growth,  with  dark-green 
foliage,  0;  Nee's  Plicate  Arbor  Vitae  (var.  plicata)  re- 
sembles the  last,  but  the  branches  are  so  disposed  in 
pairs,  as  to  give  the  spray  a  massive  plaited  and  twisted 
look;  hardy  and  excellent,  C;  Upright  Arbor  Vitae  (var. 
pyramidalis),  remarkably  erect  and  compact,  dark-green, 
and  almost  as  conspicuous  as  an  Irish  Yew,  C;  Weeping 
Arb'or  Vitae  (var.  pendula),  of  handsome,  rapid  growth, 
the  branches  drooping  gracefully.  Buist's  Arbor. Vitae 
(var.  cristata)  resembles  the  last  somewhat;  with  dense, 
short,  twisted  foliag3,  of  a  very  dark-green  color. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  the  American  Arbor  Vitoe, 
with  golden  and  silvery-hued  foliage,  making  them  de- 
sirable for  creating  contrasts  with  trees  of  other  colors, 
and  also  numerous  sorts  of  distinctly  dwarf  habit, 
highly  esteemed  for  massing  and  lines  in  small  gardens, 
some  of  which  are  also  of  the  golden-leaved  type. 
Among  these,  the  following  may  be  named  as  representa- 
tive varieties  and  some  of  the  best.  Geo.  Peabody's 
Arbor  Vitae  (var.  aurea),  of  small  size,  with  the  foliage 
of  a  bright  golden  color,  which  is  retained  throughout 
the  summer;  H ;  Burrow's  Arbor  Vitae  (var.  Burrowii), 
of  very  fine  habit  with  golden-yellow  foliage;  Parsons' 
Arbor  Vitas  (var.  compacta),  of  globular  form,  yellowish- 
green  foliage,  H;  Hovey's  Arbor  Vitae  (var.  Hoveyi), 
compact  and  globular,  with  bright,  yellowish-green  foli- 
age; one  of  the  best,  H.  Vervaene's  Arbor  Vitae  (var. 
Vervceneana),  a  distinct  and  handsome  yellow-marked 
variety.  Queen  Victoria's  Arbor  Vitae  (var.  alba),  with 
silver-tipped  foliage.  Dwarf  Dense  Arbor  Vitae  (var. 
conica  densa),  dark-green,  compact,  and  handsome  in 
outline.  Heath-leaved  Arbor  Vitae  (var.  ericoides),  linear, 
sharp-pointed  leaves ;  very  dense,  H.  Globe-headed 


EVERGREEN  TREES   AND  SHRUBS.  109 

Arbor  Vitae  (var.  globosa),  dense,  and  globular,  H.  Hack- 
er's Arbor  Vitae  (var.  Hackerii],  of  dwarf  habit,  with 
very  dark  foliage,  H.  Hoopes'  Dwarf  Arbor  Vitae  (var. 
nana),  of  conical  form,  and  very  compact  in  its  growth, 
H.  Dwarf  Kotmd-headed  Arbor  Vitae  (var.  rotundata), 
very  dwarf ;  deep  green,  with  a  crested  appearance,  H. 
The  variety  Tom  Thumb  is  a  miniature  variety,  of  slow 
growth,  with  sbarp-pointed,  dark-green  leaves,  valuable 
for  bold  edgings  or  low  hedge,  H. 

The  RETINISPORAS,  or  JAPANESE  ARBOR  VIT^;,  also 
known  as  the  Japan  Cypress,  are  among  the  handsomest 
and  most  easily  grown  evergreens  in  cultivation.  Some 
of  them  are  rather  tender,  but  the  hardier  ones  will 
thrive  over  nearly  the  entire  country,  and  possess  such 
positive  excellence,  as  to  be  worthy  of  frequent  use. 

The  PLUME-LIKE  RETINISPORA  (T.  Plumosa)  is  one 
of  the  hardiest  species;  a  rapid  grower,  with  pretty, 
small,  bright-green  leaves,  and  short,  slender  branches, 
G.  There  are  several  varieties  of  this.  The  Silver-spot- 
ted Retinispora  (var.  argentea)  has  the  young  shoots 
sprinkled  with  silvery  white.  The  Golden-tipped  Retin- 
ispora  (var.  aured)  has  a  bright  golden  hue  at  the  ends 
of  the  branches;  one  of  the  hardiest,  H. 

The  OBTUSE-LEAVED  RETINISPORA  (T.  obtusa)  is  of 
remarkable  beauty,  and  one  of  the  hardiest ;  leaves 
glossy-green  above  and  silvery- white  beneath,  A. 

The  PEA-FRUITED  RETINISPORA  (T.  pisifera)  is  of 
small  size  and  slender  habit,  with  sharp-pointed,  green 
leaves.  There  are  several  dwarf  varieties  of  this  last 
named  species. 

The  THREAD-BRANCHED  RETINISPORA  (var.  filifera), 
of  elegant  pyramidal  form,  with  the  ends  of  the  shoots 
drooping  gracefully;  bright-green  foliage.  The  Golden 
Thread-branched  Retinispora  (var.  aurea),  with  the 
branches  of  a  beautiful  golden  color.  The  Heath-like 


110  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

Ketinispora  (var.  ericoides)  is  a  compact,  cone-shaped 
bush,  the  leaves  of  which  turn  to  a  violet-red  in  winter. 
The  Squarrose  Retinispora  (R.  squarrosa)  is  round- 
headed  and  bushy  in  its  style  of  growth,  with  light, 
bluish-green  foliage.  R.  leptoclada  is  of  a  bright,  glau- 
cous-green color ;  hardy  in  England,  but  perhaps  not 
reliable  in  this  country. 

The  CHINESE  or  EASTERN  ARBOR  VIT^E  (Biota) 
are,  as  a  class,  too  tender  for  the  northern  parts  of  our 
country,  unless,  as  sometimes  happens,  they  may  find  a 
place  that  is  well  sheltered,  or  otherwise  favorable*  to 
them.  The  species  (B.  orientalis)  is  of  erect  growth, 
with  flat,  light-green  foliage.  Of  its  varieties,  the 
Golden  Chinese  Arbor  Vitae  (var.  aurea)  is  an  excellent 
sort,  of  globular  form  and  bright,  golden-tinged  foliage. 
Rollinson's  Golden  Chinese  Arbor  Vitae  (var.  elegantis- 
sima),  of  pyramidal  form,  and  golden-hued  foliage. 
Golden  Arbor  Vitae  (var.  semper  aurea),  a  dwarf  variety, 
of  fine  growth,  with  the  golden  tint  remaining  constant 
throughout  the  year.  There  is  also  a  weeping  variety 
(var.  filiformis  pendula},  and  some  others. 

THE  JUNIPERS.     Juniperus.      B  to  trailing. 

The  Junipers  are  a  beautiful  and  reliable  class  of  hardy 
evergreens,  and  of  such  a  range  of  adaptability,  as  in- 
fluenced by  size  and  habit  in  the  different  species  and 
varieties,  that  nearly  every  garden  can  employ  some  of 
them  to  great  advantage.  Among  the  smaller-growing 
species  may  be  named  : 

The  COMMON  JUNIPER  (J.  communis),  with  its 
varieties.  The  common  one  is  a  well-known  native  of 
America,  Europe,  and  Asia,  assuming  a  variety  of  forms, 
but  generally  pyramidal,  and  with  some  attention  to 
shearing,  makes  a  handsome  specimen,  E.  The  Canadian 
Trailing  Juniper  (var.  alpina,  syn.  J.  Canadensis)  is  of 
dense,  spreading  habit,  with  silvery- hued  foliage;  fine 


EVERGREEN  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  111 

for  rockwork.  The  Dwarf  Juniper  (var.  alpina  nana)  is 
a  sort  that  does  not  grow  over  a  foot  high,  and  spread- 
ing. The  American  Pyramidal  Juniper  (var.  alpina  pyra- 
midalis)  is  a  distinct  form  of  the  common  species  of  up- 
right habit.  Polish  Juniper  (var.  Cracovicd),  a  robust, 
erect  grower,  with  yellowish-green  foliage.  The  Irish 
Juniper  (var.  Hibernica),  a  compact,  free-growing  variety 
of  great  popularity;  the  growth  is  upright  and  formal, 
producing  a  fine  columnar  effect,  E.  Robust  Irish  Juniper 
(var.  Hibernica  robusta)  is  more  vigorous,  but  less  dense 
than  the  Irish.  Swedish  Juniper  (var.  Succica),  of  pyra- 
midial  form  with  yellowish-green  foliage. 

The  SAVIN  JUNIPER  (/.  Sabina]  is  another  well-known 
low-growing  species,  with  wide-spreading,  sombre,  thick- 
ly clothed  branches;  thrives  in  the  poorest  soil;  admirable 
for  hillsides  and  rockwork,  and  also  bears  the  shears 
well,  H.  The  Tamarisk-leaved  Savin  (var.  tamariscifolia) 
is  a  distinct  and  handsome  variety  of  the  last,  H.  The 
Cypress-leaved  Savin  (var.  cupressifoUa)  is  another  va- 
riety with  light-green,  and  sometimes  silvery -glaucous 
leaves.  The  Variegated-leaved  Savin  (v&r.variegata)  shows 
some  distinct  white  and  pale-yellow  markings  on  the 
leaves  ;  less  vigorous  than  the  species.  Var.  alpina  is  a 
low  trailer  in  habit  and  quite  distinct. 

The  BED  CEDAR  (J,  Virginiand),  with  its  varieties, 
are  Junipers  of  great  hardiness  and  indispensable  in  all 
good  collections  of  considerable  extent;  the  parent  form 
is  a  well-known  native,  with  bright-green,  compact  foli- 
age, C-D. 

SILVERY,  or  GRAY-LEAVED  RED  CEDAR  (var.  glauca), 
is  a  handsome,  free-growing  variety,  with  silvery  foliage, 
that  contrasts  well  with  other  evergreens,  E.  Weeping 
Red  Cedar  (var.  pendula)  is  a  variety  with  a  weeping 
tendency;  the  young  shoots  being  long  and  slender,  and 
reaching  to  the  ground.  There  are  two  Variegated  Red 


112  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

Cedars,  the  one  with  white  spots  and  stripes  on  the  foli- 
age (var.  variegata  alba);  the  other  one  with  golden 
marblings  (var.  variegata  aurca),  both  of  fair  merit,  if 
not  especially  valuable.  The  Light-green  Red  Cedar 
(var.  Schottii),  and  also  Bedford's  Red  Cedar  (var.  Bed- 
fordiana,  syn.  Barbadensis),  are  varieties  with  lighter 
colored  foliage  than  the  species. 

One  of  the  finest  Junipers  is  the  Chinese  (/.  Chinensis), 
belonging  to  the  Cypress-like  section.  The  foliage  is  of 
a  handsome  dark-green,  presenting  a  peculiar,  lively  ap- 
pearance, and  the  tree  has  an  erect  habit.  The  sexes  are 
in  separate  trees,  there  being  a  sterile  and  a  fertile  form, 
this  last  has  a  lighter  foliage,  and  is  somewhat  pendant, 
C.  Reeves'  Chinese  Juniper  (var.  Reevesiana)  is  of  re- 
markable hardiness,  and  has  a  fine  habit,  with  somewhat 
drooping  and  spreading  branches.  Lee's  Chinese  Juniper 
(var.  Leeana)  is  a  variety  with  long,  bright-green  leaves, 
and  vigorous  and  dense  habit. 

The  JAPANESE  JUNIPER  (/.  Chinensis,  var.  Japonica, 
J.  Japonica  of  some  authors),  is  a  pleasing  shrub  of  very 
small  size,  and  suitable  for  rockwork ;  it  has  bright, 
lively-green  foliage;  it  is  not  perfectly  hardy  at  the 
North,  H.  There  are  also  several  variegated-leaved 
varieties  of  this. 

There  are  still  several  other  desirable  Junipers  which 
might  be  named  here,  such  as  the  Prostrate  Juniper  (J. 
prostrata),  of  trailing  habit,  with  shining,  dark-green 
foliage;  hardy,  and  well  adapted  for  rockwork  and  edg- 
ings. The  Scaled  Juniper  (J.  syuamata),  also  of  low- 
spreading  habit,  with  foliage  of  a  delicate,  glaucous  hue. 
Globular  Juniper  (/.  hemisphcerica),  very  dwarf  and 
dense,  with  whitish  foliage.  Lovely  Juniper  (J.  occi- 
dentalis,  var.  venusta),  a  handsome,  hardy  variety  of 
erect-waving,  torch-like  form,  and  fine  glaucous, 
bluish  foliage.  Daurian  Juniper  (/.  Daurica),  a  low 
tree,  with  the  leaves  whitish  on  their  upper  surface. 


EVERGREEN   TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  113 

THE  TORREYA.     Torreya.     C. 

A  genus  of  evergreens,  near  relatives  of  the  Yew,  and 
natives  of  our  Southern  States,  California,  and  Asia. 
They  are  not  considered  hardy  generally  in  the  North, 
but  are  desirable  for  garden  planting  throughout  the 
South.  Among  the  species  are  the  California  Nutmeg 
Tree  (T.  Calif  arnica),  with  long,  pale-green  leaves.  Nut- 
bearing  Torreya  (T.  nucifera)  from  Japan.  Yew-leaved 
Torreya  (T.  taxifolia),  a  Florida  species,  with  shiny 
green  leaves,  which  give  off  a  disagreeable  odor  if  bruised. 
This  is  hardy  in  New  York  City. 

THE   HOLLY.      Ilex.       C. 

The  AMERICAN  HOLLY  (7.  opaca)  is  the  only  true 
Holly  that  is  reliable  in  the  United  States.  It  has  large, 
tough,  smooth  leaves,  with  scattered  spiny  teeth  along 
the  wavy  margin,  and  ornamental  red  berries  in  winter. 
Should  be  severely  pruned  when  transplanted. 


THE   UMBRELLA    PINE. 

8.  verticillata,  the  only  species,  is  a  remarkable  tree 
from  Japan,  with  curious,  shining,  dark-green  foliage, 
arranged  in  whorls  of  umbrella-like  tufts.  It  is  hardy 
in  New  England. 

THE  LAUREL.     Kdlmia.     E.  H. 

Beautiful  native  shrubs,  with  shining  foliage  and  large 
clusters  of  flowers.  Will  thrive  in  a  moist,  light  soil, 
that  is  well  supplied  with  vegetable  matter,  like  leaf- 
mould,  or  muck,  and  in  partial  shade. 

The  MOUNTAIN,  or  BROAD-LEAVED  LAUREL  (K.  lati- 
folia),  has  medium-sized,  shining  green  leaves,  and 
white  and  rose-colored  flowers,  E.  G. 

The  NARROW-LEAVED,  or  SHEEP  LAUREL  (K.  angus- 
tifulici),  of  much  smaller  size  than  the  last  named,  has 
small,  light-green  leaves  and  crimson  flowers,  'H. 


114  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

THE   YEW.       TttXUS.       C.  H. 

A  genus  of  evergreens,  with  handsome,  generally  dark- 
green  foliage,  that  are  very  popular  in  England,  but  are 
not  so  reliable  in  our  climate,  owing  to  the  injury  the 
foliage  is  apt  to  receive  from  the  sun  in  winter.  Partic- 
ularly fine  for  cemetery  planting. 

The  ENGLISH  YEW  (T.  baccata)  is  a  handsome  bush, 
densely  branched  and  can  be  trimmed  to  any  shape,  C. 
The  American  Yew  or  Ground  Hemlock  (var.  Canadensis] 
is  brought  under  the  foregoing  species  by  Prof.  Gray;  per- 
fectly hardy,  of  dwarf,  spreading  habit,  and  growing 
readily  in  the  shade.  There  is  also  a  variegated-leaved 
form  of  this,  with  the  young  shoots  marked  with  yellow. 

Of  other  fine  varieties  may  be  named  Dovaston's  or 
Weeping  Yew  (var.  Dovastoni),  with  pendulous,  strag- 
gling branches,  and  long  dark  leaves ;  one  of  the  hard- 
iest. Beautiful  Yew  (var.  elegantissima),  of  erect,  rapid 
growth,  and  foliage  marked  with  yellow.  Erect  Yew 
(var.  erecta),  one  of  the  hardiest  and  finest,  with  slender 
branches  and  small,  shining,  dark  leaves.  Fox's  Dwarf 
Yew  (var.  nana),  a  diminutive  form,  with  handsome, 
very  dark  leaves,  H.  The  Golden  Yew  (var.  aurea), 
with  gold-colored  foliage  ;  the  Irish  Yew  (var.  fastigi- 
atd),  an  upright  grower,  with  very  dark  foliage,  and  of 
which  there  are  also  several  sub-varieties. 

The  JAPANESE  YEW  ( T.  adpressa)  is  one  of  the  hard- 
iest, most  beautiful,  and  least  liable  to  receive  injury 
from  the  sun  in  winter  of  the  entire  genus  ;  of  low, 
spreading  form,  with  short  dark-green  leaves,  H.  Upright 
Japan  Yew  (var.  strictd)  is  a  variety  of  the  above,  of 
erect  habit,  but  less  hardy.  The  Abrupt-pointed  Yew 
(T.  cuspidata)  is  a  distinct  and  handsome  species  from 
Japan,  with  large,  glossy,  dark-green  leaves,  and  com- 
pact habit,  one  of  the  hardiest. 

The  JAP!N  YEW  or  PODOCARPUS  (Podocarpus  Japon- 


EVERGREEN  TREES  AND   SHRUBS.  115 

ica)  is  of  a  distinct  genus,  but  somewhat  resembles  the 
Irish  Yew.     Tender  in  the  North,  C. 

THE  THUIOPSIS.      Thuiopsis. 

Evergreens  from  Japan,  sometimes  called  Japanese 
Arbor  Vitae,  too  tender  to  be  considered  reliable  with  us, 
excepting  in  central  and  southern  portions  of  our  coun- 
try, and  here  they  should  have  the  benefit  of  some  shade. 
Of  different  kinds  there  is  the  Hatchet-leaved  Thuiop- 
sis (T,  drtabrata),  of  conical  form,  with  slightly  pendu- 
lous branches,  and  flat  leaves.  Standish's  Thuiopsis  (7". 
Standishii)  is  somewhat  like  the  last,  but  said  to  be  hard- 
ier ;  and  a  Variegated-leaved  Thuiopsis  (T.  dolabrata 
variegatd),  has  bright-green  foliage,  silvery  beneath. 

THE  CEPHALOTAXUS.     Cepholotaxus.     C. 

The  PLUM-FRUITED  CEPHALOTAXUS  (var.  C.  drupacea) 
is  a  compact  growing,  rather  tender,  ornamental  ever- 
green, with  short  leaves.  Fortune's  Cephalotaxus  (C. 
Fortunei)  is  a  species  of  which  there  are  two  forms, 
male  and  female  trees ;  the  former  with  long  leaves, 
and  of  a  spreading  habit  of  growth  ;  the  latter  with 
smallish,  dark-green  leaves,  and  slender  drooping 
branches. 

THE  RHODODENDRON.     Rhododendron.     E.  H. 

Wherever  they  will  do  well,  it  is  hard  to  find  any  other 
shrubby  plants  that  will  give  equal  satisfaction  with  the 
Khododeudrons,  especially  the  improved  hybrid  sort?. 
They  are  of  a  handsome  form,  with  glossy,  evergreen 
leaves,  and  are  covered  in  June  with  immense  clusters  of 
the  most  attractively  colored  and  handsomely  formed 
flowers.  The  plants  will  not  thrive  in  heavy  clay,  and 
a  limey  soil  seems  to  be  about  as  bad  for  them,  while  any 
light  loam  that  is  well  supplied  with  decayed  leaf-mould 
or  other  similar  vegetable  matter,  will  suit  them  well. 
They  like  coolness  and  moisture  at  the  roots  in  summer, 


116  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

which  may  be  secured  by  mulching  them  before  hot 
weather  comes  on.  A  temperature  fifteen  degrees  below 
zero,  if  not  too  long  continued,  or  too  frequent,  does  not 
hurt  them,  provided  they  have  shelter  from  wind  and 
sun,  and  they  may  be  planted  near  buildings  or  trees  to 
receive  this.  For  some  further  directions  in  preparation 
of  the  soil  and  their  management,  see  Divisions  IV  and  V. 

The  AMERICAN  RHODODENDRON  (R.  maximum),  also 
called  the  Great  Laurel,  is  a  native  species,  and  found 
growing  wild  from  Maine  to  Ohio,  and  southward,  as  a 
straggling  bush,  with  thick,  smooth  leaves,  and  small, 
green-spotted,  rose-colored  or  white  flowers. 

PONTIC  RHODODENDRON  (R.  Ponticum)  is  an  Europe- 
an species,  almost  valueless  in  America,  from  the  liabil- 
ity of  the  flower  buds  to  be  winter  killed. 

The  CATAWBA  RHODODENDRON  (R.  CatawUensis),  the 
Rose  Bay  of  the  Southern  States,  is  found  growing  on  the 
mountains  of  Virginia  and  southward.  From  this 
species  have  sprung  nearly  all  the  fine  hardy  hybrids  of 
the  gardens.  There  are  many  named  varieties  of  these, 
the  colors  of  which  are  exceedingly  handsome,  and  vary- 
ing through  pure-white,  light-pink,  cherry-red,  rose,  lilac, 
purple,  and  brilliant-scarlet,  and  crimson.  There  are 
some  other  distinct  species  also,  which  are  of  little  con- 
sequence, hence  I  omit  them. 

THE  BOX.     Buxus.     E.  H. 

A  genus  of  beautiful  evergreens,  suitable  for  lawn  dec- 
oration, and  the  dwarf  varieties  for  edgings  to  walks, 
etc.  The  trees  may  be  grown  to  any  desirable  shape 
by  shearing.  Although  hardy,  they  sometimes  suffer 
from  sun-scald  in  winter,  and  from  harsh  sweeping 
winds,  but  as  they  do  not  object  to  partial  shade,  by 
planting  them  where  they  will  receive  this,  the  first 
named  difficulty  is  avoided,  and  shelter  from  winds  is 
the  remedy  for  the  other. 


EVERGREEN  TREES   AND   SHRUBS.  117 

The  COMMON  TREE  Box  (B.  sempervirens)  is  the  well 
known  European  species,  with  beautiful  glossy  foliage, 
E.  "The  following  are  some  of  the  varieties  of  this  : 
Dwarf  Box  (var.  suffruticosa),  is  the  sort  usually  em- 
ployed for  edgings  ;  forms  a  pretty  bush  when  planted 
alone.  Handsworth's  Box  (var.  Handsworthii]  is  a  vigor- 
ous, upright  grower  of  great  hardiness.  Jackson's  Weep- 
ing Box  (var.  Jaclcsonii}  has  pendulous  branches,  which 
habit  gives  the  tree  a  fine  appearance.  The  Broad- 
leaved  Box  (var.  latifolia),  and  the  Myrtle-leaved  Box 
(var.  myrtifolid),  are  both  fine  sorts.  There  are  a  num- 
ber of  varieties,  the  leaves  of  which  are  marked  and 
splashed  with  gold  and  silver  colors,  such  as  the  Gold- 
striped  Box,  Silver-striped  Box,  Elegantly-variegated 
Box,  and  others. 

THE  MAHONIAS.     Berberis.     H. 

The  evergreen  species  of  Barberry  were  formerly 
placed  in  the  genus  Mahonia,  but  they  are  now  arranged 
as  a  section  of  Berberis.  It  is  convenient  to  retain  Ma- 
honia  as  a  popular  or  garden  name. 

The  HOLLY-LEAVED  MAHONIA  (B.  Aquifolium)  is 
one  of  the  hardiest  and  finest  low-growing  evergreens  we 
have.  It  is  liable  to  receive  spots  from  the  sun  in  winter, 
on  which  account  it  should  be  protected  somewhat,  a 
thing  easily  done  with  evergreen  boughs  or  otherwise,  as 
the  plant  is  of  low  growth  ;  or  it  may  be  planted  in  the 
shade.  It  has  handsome,  thick,  glossy  leaves,  with 
prickly  and  scalloped  edges,  which  somewhat  resemble 
those  of  the  Holly  ;  clusters  of  yellow  flowers  in  the 
spring.  There  are  several  other  rather  unimportant 
species. 


118  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
CLIMBERS    AND    TRAILERS. 

As  found  growing  wild,  the  hard-wooded  climbers  and 
trailers  afford  some  of  the  most  delightful  bits  of  natural 
scenery  to  be  met  with.  Many  of  these  serve  valuable 
purposes  for  embellishments  in  ornamental  gardening,  as 
shown  in  Part  III.  Some  kinds,  and  conspicuously  the 
Clematis,  have  been  improved  much  by  cultivation  since 
first  brought  into  the  gardens. 

THE   VIRGINIA   CEEEPEE.      AmpelopSlS. 

A  genus  of  climbers  of  the  first  rank  for  general  cul- 
ture. The  VIRGINIA  CREEPER  (A.  quinquefolia),  also 
called  "  American  Ivy,"  and  incorrectly,  "Woodbine," 
is  the  common  native  species.  It  is  a  rapid  grower,  pro- 
ducing dense  masses  of  splendid,  digitate  foliage,  and  at- 
taching itself  firmly  to  wood,  stone,  or  the  trunks  of 
trees.  There  is,  however,  a  form  not  possessing  this  last 
named  quality,  which  should  be  avoided.  The  foliage  of 
this  species  turns  to  a  beautiful  crimson  in  autumn. 

VEITCH'S  AMPELOPSIS  (A.  tricuspidata,  syn.  A. 
Veitchii),  from  Japan,  possesses  great  merit  as  a  hardy 
climber,  and  particularly  for  covering  brick  and  stone 
walls.  The  leaves  are  smaller  than  the  common  kind, 
lobed  instead  of  divided,  and  of  a  clear  green,  changing 
to  crimson-scarlet  in  the  fall.  They  possess  the  pleasing 
peculiarity  of  regularly  overlapping  one  another,  liter- 
ally forming  an  even  sheet  of  green,  if  growing  on  any 
smooth  surface  like  a  building.  Perfectly  hardy  if  pro- 
tected for  one  or  two  winters  until  well  established. 

Among  other  ornamental  species  may  be  named  the 
Pepper  Vine  (A.  Upinnata),  of  vigorous,  picturesque 
growth,  with  compound,  pinnate  leaves.  Royle's  Ampe- 
lopsis  (A.  Roylii),  of  rapid  growth,  with  large  foliage, 


CLIMBERS   AND  TEAILEBS.  119 

that  colors  up  richly  in  the  autumn.     A.  indivisa  has 
leaves  less  deeply  cut  than  the  others. 

THE  WISTARIA.      Wistaria. 

Usually,  for  several  years  after  planting,  the  Wistarias 
make  but  little  growth,  but  after  being  once  well  estab- 
lished, they  grow  rapidly  and  to  a  great  length.  Besides 
their  free  growing  qualities,  they  are  prized  for  their 
picturesque  appearance  in  general,  and  the  profusion  of 
showy  flowers  they  bear. 

The  CHINESE  WISTARIA  ( W.  Sinensis)  is  one  of  the 
best  known  and  most  vigorous  species,  attaining  to  an 
immense  size  with  age;  long  pendulous  clusters  of  pale 
lilac  flowers  in  the  spring,  and  sometimes  again  in  the 
fall.  There  are  several  varieties  of  this  species,  namely 
the  Chinese  White  Wistaria  (var.  alba),  with  charming 
white  flowers.  Double  Purple  Wistaria  (var.  flore  pleno), 
said  to  produce  long  racemes  of  double  flowers,  but  it  is 
very  slow  to  come  into  bloom. 

There  are  a  number  of  Japanese  species  and  varieties 
(W.  brachybotrys),  with  fragrant,  light,  rosy-purple 
flowers;  var.  rnbra,  a  variety  of  the  last  named,  with 
darker  red  flowers.  W.  Japonica  alba  nan  a,  of  dwarfish 
growth  with  white  flowers;  W.  mullijuga  and  multi- 
juga  alba},  are  of  another  species,  with  very  large 
racemes  of  flowers,  in  the  first  named  of  purple  color, 
in  the  last  white. 

The  AMERICAN,  or  SHRUBBY  WISTARIA  (W.  fru- 
tescens),  is  a  native,  less  attractive  and  strong  growing 
than  the  Chinese;  pale-blue  flowers  in  short  clusters.  The 
White  American  Wistaria  (var.  alba)  is  a  white-flowered 
variety  of  the  species.  Var.  magnifica  is  said  to  have 
the  flowers  in  dense  drooping  racemes. 

THE    HONEYSUCKLE   OR    WOODBINE.       LoniCera. 

A  rather  extensive  genus,  the  more  ornamental  species 
and  varieties  of  which  are  much  valued  for  their  fine 


120  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

flowers.  Their  nature  is  to  twine  about  any  support, 
hence  they  are  more  useful  for  adorning  pillars,  veran- 
da posts,  etc.,  than  for  covering  walls.  Excellent  about 
rockwork.  By  stopping  the  leading  shoots  at  four  to  six 
feet,  most  of  the  kinds  form  handsome  standards  if  sup- 
ported by  a  stake. 

Among  native  species  and  their  varieties  are  the  fol- 
lowing : 

SCARLET  TRUMPET  HONEYSUCKLE  (L.  sempervirens), 
a  strong  grower,  with  handsome,  scarlet  flowers,  about 
two  inches  long,  produced  all  summer ;  dark-green 
leaves.  Brown's  Scarlet  Trumpet  Honeysuckle  (var. 
Brownii),  a  variety  of  the  last  with  large  dark-scarlet 
flowers.  Small  Bed  Honeysuckle  (var.  minus),  a  variety 
with  small  flowers,  slightly  darker  than  in  the  species. 

YELLOW  TRUMPET  HONEYSUCKLE  (L.  Jlava),  very 
fragrant,  bright-yellow  and  orange  flowers.  What  is 
known  in  the  nurseries  as  the  Canadian  Honeysuckle 
(var.  Canadensis),  probably  a  variety  of  this,  is  a  dis- 
tinct and  striking  form,  of  robust  growth,  with  large, 
bluish-green  leaves,  united  in  pairs  at  the  base  around 
the  stem  ;  yellow  flowers  in  June ;  readily  grown  as  a 
standard. 

The  Asiatic  species  are  a  class  of  great  value,  Hall's 
Japan  Honeysuckle  (L.  Halleana),  a  species  with  fine, 
nearly  evergreen  leaves, and  very  sweet  flowers,  at  first  pure 
white,  and  then  changing  to  yellow,  and  produced,  all 
summer,  a  superb  sort.  Japan-Evergreen  Honeysuckle 
(L.  brachypoda),  of  remarkably  vigorous  growth,  with 
white  and  yellow  fragrant  flowers.  Golden-Veined 
Honeysuckle  (var.  reticulata),  a  variety  of  the  last,  the 
small,  rounded  leaves  of  which  are  elegantly  netted  and 
veined  with  yellow.  Among  other  meritorious  kinds  may 
be  named 

The  COMMON  WOODBINE  (L.  Periclymcmtm),  a  rapid 


CLIMBERS   AND   TRAILERS.  121 

grower,  with  showy  flowers,  red  outside,  white  within. 
Monthly  Dutch  Honeysuckle  (var.  Belgica),  a  superior 
variety,  blooming  throughout  the  season,  with  red  and 
yellow,  fragrant  flowers. 

MANGEVILLE'S  HONEYSUCKLE  (L.  CaprifoUum,  var. 
pattida),  an  evergreen  species,  with  yellowish-white, 
fragrant  flowers.  Standish's  Honeysuckle  (L.  Stan- 
dishii),  light  pink  and  yellow  flowers. 

THE  CLEMATIS.     Clematis. 

The  species  of  Clematis  are  most  attractive  and 
valuable  climbers,  being  easily  grown,  of  graceful  habits, 
and  possessing  magnificent  flowering  qualities.  They 
will  thrive  in  any  good  soil  which  is  well  enriched,  and 
by  protecting  the  roots  by  a  slight  covering  over  them 
each  fall,  they  stand  the  severest  winters  safely.  Besides 
their  great  value  for  decorating  verandas  and  arbors, 
they  are  admirably  suited  for  growing  in  pots  or  tubs, 
training  the  vines  on  a  trellis,  or  balloon  frame,  for  adorn- 
ing verandas,  roof  gardens,  conservatories,  etc. 

The  species  are  divisible  into  two  classes,  namely  : 
those  that  flower  on  the  last  year's  growth  in  the  early 
part  of  the  season,  and  those  flowering  on  the  present 
season's  growth  in  summer  and  autumn,  either  con- 
tinuously or  in  successive  crops.  There  are  many  vari- 
eties of  both  these  classes  described  in  the  catalogues, 
ranging  in  color  from  white  through  lavender,  reddish- 
purple,  violet,  mauve,  etc.,  to  the  most  intense  violet- 
blue,  and  blackish  mulberry. 

JACKMAN'S  CLEMATIS  (C.  Jackmanii)  is  one  of  the 
best  sorts,  and  well  known,  being  of  free  growth,  and  a 
most  abundant  bloomer,  the  flowers  being  of  a  rich, 
violet-blue  color. 

The  SCARLET  CLEMATIS  (C.  coccinea)  is  a  quite  dis- 
tinct species,  with  scarlet  flowers,  having  yellow  centers. 

The   COMMON  WILD  CLEMATIS   (C.  Virginiana)  is  a 


122  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

species  of  free  growth,  with  smooth  leaves  and  white 
llowers  in  profusion. 

TRUMPET   FLOWERS.      TeCOma. 

AMERICAN  TRUMPET  VINE  (T.  radicans)  is  a  vigorous, 
hardy  climber,  with  large,  trumpet-shaped,  scarlet  flow- 
ers in  August,  excellent  to  cover  stumps  and  stones,  or 
to  train  as  a  standard.  Dark-red  or  Purple  Trumpet 
Flower  (var.  astrosanguinea),  a  variety  with  purplish- 
crimson  flowers,  and  more  shrub-like  in  habit  than  the 
last. 

GREAT  TRUMPET  FLOWER  (T.  grandiflora)  has  large, 
showy,  pale-orange  flowers. 

OTHER  ORNAMENTAL  CLIMBERS. 

The  DUTCHMAN'S  PIPE  (AristolocMa  Sipho),  a  valuable 
native  climber  of  rapid  growth,  with  immense  leaves  ten 
to  twelve  inches  across,  and  pipe-shaped,  yellowish-brown 
flowers.  There  are  several  other  species,  but  not  equal 
to  the  one  named. 

The  CLIMBING  BITTER-SWEET  or  STAFF-TREE  ( Celastrus 
scandens),  a  native,  and  one  of  the  most  elegant  climbers 
or  twiners,  and  worthy  of  being  generally  used  ;  exceed- 
ingly fine  for  verandas  ;  rich,  glossy  leaves,  and  beauti- 
ful, pendant  branches,  with  clusters  of  orange  capsules. 
The  Bitter-Sweet  may  be  grown  in  the  form  of  a  shrub, 
by  cutting  back  to  three  or  four  feet.  There  are  also  sev- 
eral Japanese  species. 

The  Akebia  quinata,  a  neat  and  most  attractive  climb- 
er from  Japan,  with  small  leaves  and  fragrant  purple 
flowers  in  early  summer,  followed  by  ornamental  fruit. 

The  Actinidia  polygama,  another  climber  from  Japan, 
is  of  vigorous  and  elegant  habit,  and  has  white  and 
purple  flowers. 

A  VINE  with  variegated  leaves  ( Vitis  JieteropTiylla, 
Cissus  variegata  of  some  catalogues),  is  a  very  pleasing 


CLIMBERS  JLKD  TRAILERS.  123 

plant.  Of  rapid,  slender  growth,  with  small  leaves,  re- 
aembling  those  of  the  grape  vine,  but  beautifully  mar- 
bled, and  variegated  with  white,  pink  and  green. 

The  CAROLINA  COCCULUS  (C.  Carolinus),  a  native 
vine,  with  small,  heart-shaped  leaves,  greenish  flowers  in 
summer,  and  small,  red  fruit,  the  size  of  a  pea.  . 

The  CANADIAN  MOONSEED  (Menispermum  Canadense), 
a  pretty,  slender-branched,  twining  plant,  with  small, 
yellow  flowers  and  black  fruit,  resembling  small  frost 
grapes. 

The  GRAPE  ( Vitis).  There  are  situations,  and  especially 
about  the  Wild  Garden,  where  the  native  species  of  grapes 
are  most  attractive  climbers.  They  are  neat,  free  grow- 
ers, with  foliage  well  adapted  to  making  shade  for  arbors, 
for  overhanging  ledges,  bridges,  etc. ;  some  have  fragrant 
flowers.  Among  the  best  for  ornament,  may  be  named 
the  Summer  Grape  ( F.  cestivalis)  ;  the  Frost  Grape  ( F. 
cordifolid),  with  very  sweet  flowers,  and  the  species  F. 
indivisa,  and  F.  vulpina  for  the  more  southern  sections 
of  our  country. 

The  WHITE  JESSAMINE  (Jasminum  officinale)  is  an 
elegant  climber,  that  has  long  been  in  cultivation,  but  is 
too  tender  for  the  North,  unless  well  protected  in  winter. 
There  are  several  other  species  and  varieties  belonging 
to  the  genus. 

The  GRECIAN  SILK  VINE  (Periploca  Grceca),  a  rapid 
growing  climber  of  no  high  order  of  beauty,  with  pointed 
leaves,  and  purplish-brown  flowers. 

The  EUROPEAN  IVY  (Hedera) .  Owing  to  our  bright  sun- 
shiny winters,  in  which  it  suffers  if  the  sun  comes  to  it, 
the  Ivy  can  never  become  popular  in  this  country  to  the 
extent  it  has  in  Europe.  The  hardiest  kinds,  however, 
do  well,  when  planted  against  the  north  side  of  buildings 
or  walls.  They  may  also  be  thickly  planted  in  beds  to 
produce  a  mass  of  foliage  over  th%  bed,  or  be  used  as 


124  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

edgings,  as  when  grown  thus  they  can  be  easily  protected. 
The  Irish  Ivy  (H.  Helix,  var.  Hibernica),  is  about  the 
best  for  general  planting.  There  are  a  number  of  inter- 
esting varieties  with  variegated  and  striking  forms  of 
foliage,  all  more  or  less  useful. 


CHAPTER  IX. 
HARDY  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS. 

Let  me  introduce  the  plants  that  come  under  this  head 
as  the  Hardy  Wild  Plants  of  the  temperate  regions  of 
the  earth,  and  then  it  may  be  known  at  once  what  they 
are.  The  lists  embrace  such  as  are  perennial,  having 
roots  that  live  from  year  to  year,  producing  new  growths 
above  ground  annually,  but  which  die  down  as  often, 
either  soon  after  flowering,  or  in  the  fall.  Many  of  the 
kinds  have  been  much  improved  in  the  gardens,  afford- 
ing numerous  varieties  that  greatly  exceed  the  parents  in 
value. 

It  is  a  pleasure  to  note  the  increasing  attention  this 
class  of  plants  is  now  attracting  in  ornamental  garden- 
ing in  this  country  and  Europe.  As  a  rule  they  are 
easily  grown,  very  ornamental  and  inexpensive,  for,  un- 
like most  other  kinds  of  flowers,  when  once  they  are 
planted,  they  remain. 

Pains  have  been  taken  in  this  chapter,  to  classify  these 
plants  somewhat,  according  to  their  adaptability  and 
value.  To  save  space,  I  have  generally,  in  the  descrip- 
tions, merely  separated  the  distinguishing  qualities  of  the 
plants  by  the  semicolon,  giving  color  of  flowers  first,  sea- 
son of  flowering  next,  with  the  hight  in  inches  or  feet 
last.  The  word  "  protect,"  indicates  that  the  sort  which 
it  follows,  must  be  protected  in  the  Northern  States  in 
winter. 


HARDY  HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  125 

CLASS   I. — HARDY    PLANTS,  MOSTLY   IMPROVED  SORTS,  OF 
THE   HIGHEST  ATTRACTIVENESS. 

Adonis,  Spring  (Adonis  vernalis). — Yellow ;  spring ;  8 
to  12  inches. 

Anemone   or    Wind-Flower  (Anemone). — Japan  Ane- 
mone (A  Japonica). — Bluish-rose  ;  autumn  ;  21/.,  feet. 
White  Japan  Anemone  (var.  alba). — White,  golden 

center  ;  autumn  ;  2'/a  feet. 
Apennine  Anemone  (A.  apennina). — Bright  blue  ; 

early  spring  ;  6  inches. 
Double  White  Wind-Flower  (A.  nemorosafl.  pi.).— 

Early  spring  ;  6  inches. 

Anthericum  (Anthericum). — Branching  Anthericum 
(A.  ramosum). — White  ;  spring  ;  18  inches. 

St.  Bruno's  Lily  (A.  liliastrum).—  White  •  June  ;  18 

inches. 

Columbine  (Aquilegia). — Rocky  Mountain  Columbine 
(A.  ccerulea). — White  and  caerulean  blue  ;  spring  ;  2  to 
3  feet. 

Golden-spurred  Columbine  (A.  chrysantha). — Yel- 
low ;  summer  ;  2  to  3  feet. 
Siberian   Columbine   (A.   glandulosa).  —  Blue  and 

white  ;  summer  ;  2  feet. 
Skinner's  Columbine  (A.  Skinneri). — Distinct,  red 

and  yellow. 

Striped  Columbine  (A.  caryophylloides). — Striped. 
Common  Columbine  (A.  vulgar  is). — There  are  many 

varieties. 

Woodruff  (Asperula  odorata). — Pure  white  ;  spring  ; 
6  inches. 

Astilbe,  Japan  (Astilbe  Japonica).  —  White  ;  cut- 
leaves  ;  May  ;  2  feet.  Often  called  Spircea  Japonica. 

Daisy  (Bellis perennis). — White,  pink,  etc.;  spring  ;  3 
inches  ;  protect. 


126  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

Bell-Flo wer,  Harebell  (Campanula). — The  following 
are  the  names  of  a  few  species  among  many  : 

Peach-leaved  Campanula  (0.  persiccefolia). — Blue; 

June  ;  2  to  3  feet.     There  is  a  variety  with  white 

flowers.     Var.  coronata,  has  double  flowers,  both 

white  and  blue. 
Nettle-leaved  Campanula  (C.  Trachelium}. — Blue; 

with  a  white  variety  ;  3  feet. 
Betony-leaved   Campanula   (G.   sarmatica).  —  Pale 

blue  ;  July  ;  2  feet. 

The  catalogues  give  other  species  and  varieties  of 
Campanula.  The  normal  color  is  blue,  but  nearly  all 
have  varieties  with  white  flowers. 

Large  Bell-flower  (Platycodon  grandiflorum.  Syn. 
Campanula  grandiflora,  Wahlenbergia  grandiflora}.  — 
Very  large  blue  flowers  ;  summer  ;  1  to  2  feet.  There  is 
a  white  semi-double  variety. 

Meadow  Saffron  (Colchicum). — 0.  autumnale.  Light- 
purplish,  mottled  ;  autumn ;  4  inches.  There  are  varie- 
ties with  white  and  with  rose-colored  flowers.  C.  varie- 
gatum,  with  rose  and  purplish-violet  flowers,  is  probably 
a  variety  also.  Autumn  ;  4  inches. 

Lily  of  the  Valley  (Convallaria  majalis). — White  ; 
fragrant ;  May  ;  8  inches. 

Hollyhock  (Althcea  rosea). — Many  colors,  single  and 
double  ;  summer  ;  4  to  6  feet. 

Crocus  (Crocus). — Many  colors;  early  spring;  4 
inches. 

Larkspur  (Delphinium). — The  following  are  excellent 
kinds  : 

D.    formosum. — Rich,    dark  blue,    tinged  purple ; 

summer ;  2  to  3  feet. 

D.  ccelestinum. — Light  blue,  double;  June,  Sept.; 
3  to  4  feet. 


HARDY    HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  127 

D.  pyramidalis. — Blue  ;  fine  grower ;  June  ;  4  to  5 

feet. 
D.  azureum. — Light  blue  ;   single  ;   July  ;   2  to  3 

feet. 

D.  grandiflorum. — Of  different  colors. 
Pink  (Dianthus}. — Garden  Pink  (D.  plumarius). — 
Pink,  with  a  white  variety ;  12  to  15  inches. 

Maiden  Pink  (D.  deltoides). — Rose  and  Avhite  ;  6  to 

9  inches. 

Amoor  Pink  (D.  dentosus). — Lilac  ;  dwarf  inhabit. 
Sweet    William  (D.    barbatus). — Many  colors  and 

forms. 
D.    Querterii. — Deep    crimson  ;    clove    fragrance  ; 

spring ;  1  foot. 

Bleeding  Heart  (Dicentra  spectabilis). — Rosy  crimson; 
spring  ;  2  to  4  feet. 

Plumy  Bleeding  Heart  (D.   eximia). — Rose  ;  sum- 
mer ;  9  to  18  inches. 

Fraxinella  (Dictamnus  Fraxinella). — Both  pink  and 
white  ;  June  ;  18  inches. 

Foxglove  (Digitalis}. — White,  purple,  etc.;  summer; 
2  to  3  feet. 

Adder's  Tongue,  Dog's  Tooth  Violet  (Erythroniuni).— 
Yellow  Adder's  Tongue  (E.  Americanum). — Yellow; 

May  ;  G  to  9  inches. 
White  Dog's  Tooth  Violet  (E.  albidum).—B\msh- 

white  ;  May. 

European  Dog's  Tooth  Violet  (E.  Dens-canis). — 
Crown  Imperial  (Fritillaria    imperialis). — Different 
colors  ;  spring  ;  3  feet. 

Plantain  Lily  (Funkia)  :  As  the  species  of  Funkia 
and  of  Hemerocallis  are  both  known  as  Day  Lilies,  and 
much  confusion  results,  it  has  been  proposed  in  England, 
to  call  the  Funkias  Plan  tain -lilies,  an  appropriate  name, 
having  reference  to  their  plantain-like  leaves. 


128  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

White  Plantain  Lily  (F.  alba). — White  ;   summer  ; 

15  inches. 
Blue  Plantain  Lily  (F.  cceruka). — Light  blue;  June 

and  July ;  1  foot. 
Japan   Plantain   Lily    (F.    Japonica). — Lavender; 

narrow  leaves  ;  2  feet. 
Siebold's  Plantain  Lily  (F.  Sieboldii).—P&le  pink  ; 

12  to  18  inches. 
Day  Lily  (Hemerocallis) : 

Yellow 'Day  Lily  (H.  flava). — June  ;  2  to  4  feet. 
Copper-colored    Day  Lily   (H.  fulva). — Yellowish 

copper-color;  July. 
Double  Day  Lily,  of  several  species. 
Snowdrop    (Galanthus).  —  Common     Snowdrop   (G. 
nivalis). — White  ;  early  spring  ;  4  inches  ;  also  a  double 
variety. 

Canada  Tick-Trefoil  (Desmodium  C'anadense). — Blu- 
ish-purple ;  all  summer  ;  1  to  2  feet. 

Kocket  Flower  (Hesperis}. — Dame's  Violet  (H.  ma- 
tronalis). — Purple  ;  June  ;  1  to  2  feet ;  also  white  and 
double  white  varieties. 

Hyacinth  (Hyacinthus). — Common  Hyacinth  (H.  ori- 
entalis). — Single  and  double  in  many  colors  ;  May. 

Grape  Hyacinth  (Muscari). — Common  Grape  Hya- 
cinth (M.  botryoides). — Deep  sky-blue  ;  spring  ;  9  inches  ; 
also  a  pure  white  variety. 

Feathery  Hyacinth  (M.  comosum). — Blue ;  feathery; 

12  to  18  inches. 

Musk  Hyacinth  (M.  moschatum}. — Purplish  green. 
Candy-tuft,  Perennial  (Iberis) :  Evergreen  Candy-tuft 
(/.  sempervirens). — White  ;  May. 

Coris-leaved  Candy-tuft  (/.  corrafolia).  —  White  ; 

dwarf  ;  early  summer  ;  6  to  9  inches. 
Gibraltar  Candy-tuft  (/.  Gibraltarica).—  White  and 
purplish  ;  June  ;  1  foot. 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  129 

Iris,  Fleur  de  Lis,  Flag  (Iris). — Of    the  numerous 
species  and  hybrids,  the  following  are  among  the  best  : 
Florentine  Iris  (/.  Florentina}. — White,    blue  and 

yellow  ;  early  summer  ;  18  inches. 
German  Iris  (/.  Germanica). — The  old  "  Blue  Flag," 

of  which  there  are  many  fine  named  varieties. 
Japan  or  Clematis-flowered   Iris  (/.  Icevigata,  Syn. 
/.  Kcempferi}. — Flowers  distinct  in  form,  and  pre- 
senting a  wonderful  variety  of  colors  and  shades 
in  the  named  sorts  ;  3  to  4  feet. 
Dwarf  Iris  (/.  pumila). — Deep,  violet,  yellow,  etc.; 

spring  ;  3  to  6  inches. 

Iberian  Iris  (/.  Ibirica). — Purple  and  black  ;  spring. 
Peacock  Iris  (/.  Pavonia). — Pure  white  and  deep 

blue. 
Netted  Iris  (7.  reticulata). — Blue,  netted  yellow ; 

spring  ;  6  inches. 
English   Iris    (/.   xiphioides). — White,   blue,   etc.; 

summer. 
Spanish   Iris  (/.  Xiphium).  —  Resembles  the  last ; 

many  colors. 

Jonquil  (Narcissus  Jonquilla). — Double  and  single  ; 
yellow  ;  spring. 

Pea,  Perennial  (Lathyrus  latifolius). — Rose  and  white 
sorts  ;  summer  ;  4  to  8  feet. 

Everblooming  Pea  (L.  grandiflorus). — Purple  ;  sum- 
mer ;  3  to  4  feet. 

Blazing-Star  (Liatris). — Spiked  Blazing-Star  (L.  spi- 
cafa). — Purple  ;  summer  ;  2  to  4  feet. 

Elegant  Blazing-Star  (L.  elegans). — Bluish  purple  ; 

summer  ;  1  foot. 

Dwarf  Blazing-Star  (L.  pumila). — Handsome  pur- 
ple ;  July  ;  1  foot. 

Loose-strife  (Ly  thrum). — Spiked  Loose-strife  (L.  Sali- 
caria). — Rosy-scarlet;  summer;  3  feet ;  there  is  also  a 
variety  with  rosy-purple  flowers. 


130  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

Snowflake  (Leucojum). — Spring  Snowflake   (L.    ver- 
num). — White  ;  very  early  spring  ;  9  inches. 

Summer  Snowflake  (L.  cestivum). — White  ;  June  ; 

I'/,  feet. 
Autumn  Snowflake   (L.   autumnalis). — White  or 

pale  rose  ;  6  inches. 

Lilies  (Lilium). — The  following  are  a  few  of  the  best 
from  among  many  species  : 

Golden-Banded  Lily  (L.  auratum). — White,  maroon 

and  yellow  ;  2  to  5  feet. 
White  Lily  (L.  candidurri). — Pure  white  ;  summer; 

3  to  4  feet. 
Buff  Lily  (L.  excelsum). — Nankeen,  shaded  red  ;  4 

to  6  feet. 
Long  -  flowered    Lily    (L.  longiflorum).  —  White  ; 

12  to  20  inches  ;  protect. 
Turban  Lily  (L.  Pomponium). — Red,  dotted  black  ; 

summer  ;  1  to  2  feet ;  and  a  variety  with  yellow 

flowers,  dotted  black. 
Eose-colored  Japan  Lily  (L.  speciosum  roseum). — 

Rose  ;  spotted  ;  summer  ;  1  to  2  feet. 
Slender-leaved  Lily  (L.  tenuifolium). — Small ;  scar- 
let ;  June  ;  about  1  foot ;  protect. 
Turk's   Cap  Lily  (L.  superbum). — Bright  orange ; 

summer  ;  4  to  7  feet. 
Umbelled  Lily  (L.  umbellatum). — Bright  red;  July; 

I1/,  to  87,  feet. 
Splendid  Tiger    Lily  (L.   tigrinum  splendens}. — 

Orange-scarlet ;  spotted. 
Thunberg's  Lily  (L.  Thunbergianum). — Blood  red  ; 

1  to  2  feet. 

Kramer's  Lily  (L.  Krameri). — Suffused  delicate 
pink ;  2  feet. 

Wild  Yellow  Lily  (L.  Canadense). — Yellow;  sum- 
mer ;  2  to  5  feet. 

Southern   Red  Lily  (L.    Catesbm}. — Scarlet ;  1  to 

2  feet  ;  protect. 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  131 

Lychnis  (Lychnis). — Scarlet  Lychnis  (L.  Chalcedonica). 
— Double  and  single  ;  various  colors  ;  summer  ;  2  to  3 
feet. 
•     Double   German   Catchfly  (L.  Viscaria,  fl.  pi.). — 

Bright  red  ;  12  to  18  inches. 
Flower  of  Jove  (L.  Fos-Jovis). — Large,  deep  red. 
Ragged  Robin  (L.  Fos-cuculi). — Fine,  deep  pink  ; 

summer  ;  1  foot ;  also  a  white  variety. 
Haage's  Lychnis  (L.  Haageana). — Red,  of  various 
shades  ;  large. 

Forget-me-not  (Myosotis  dissitiflora).  —  Sky-blue  ; 
May  ;  6  to  12  inches. 

Daffodil  (Narcissus).  —  This  well  known  genus  of 
hardy  bulbs  now  embraces  many  fine  sorts.  One 
establishment  at  Passaic,  N.  J.,  alone  offering  in  their 
catalogue  almost  two  hundred  distinct  species  and  varie- 
ties ;  mostly  yellow,  orange,  scarlet,  and  white  colors  ; 
double  and  single  ;  spring. 

Star  of  Bethlehem  (Ornitliogalum  umbellaturri). — 
Satiny-white  ;  spring  ;  6  to  9  inches. 

Pyramidal  Star  of    Bethlehem  (0.  pyramidale). — 

White;  summer  ;  1  to  2  feet. 

Bitter  Vetch,  Spring  (Orobus  vernus). — Dark  purple  ; 
spring ;  1  foot. 

Paeony  (Pceonia). — Of  this  grand  genus  there  are  a 
number  of  species,  and  a  great  many  improved  named 
varieties. 

Tree  Paeony  (P.  Moutan). — Superb  flowers  in  many 

varieties  ;  5  to  8  feet. 

Chinese  Double  Blush  Troe  Paeony. — Rose  and  pur- 
ple. 

Common  Garden  Paeony  (P.  officinaUs). — Many  va- 
rieties ;  mostly  large  and  double  ;  June ;  2  to  4 
feet. 


132  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

Fennel-leaved  Pseony  (P.  tenuifolia). — Double  and 

single  ;  dark  crimson  ;  May  ;  I1/,  to  2  feet. 
Poppy,  Perennial  (Papaver). — Golden  Poppy  (P.  cro- 
ceum).— Orange  yellow  ;  early  ;  8  to  15  inches. 

Oriental   Poppy  (P.    orientate) .  —  Bright   scarlet  ; 
June ;  18  inches. 

Pentstemon  (Pentstemon). — There  are  a  number  of  spe- 
cies and  varieties,  with  scarlet,  purple,  white,  and  other 
colored  flowers. 

Phlox,  Perennial  (Phlox).—  Hybrid  Garden  Phlox.— 
These  have  mostly  originated  from  P.  paniculata  and  P. 
maculata,  and  are  represented  by  a  long  list  of  excellent 
named  sorts  ;  summer  ;  2  to  4  feet. 

Spreading  Phlox  (P.  divaricata). — Lilac-blue  ;  9  to 

18  inches. 
Creeping  Phlox  (P.  reptans). — Kosy-purple  ;   May 

and  June  ;  4  to  8  inches. 
Moss  Pink  (P.  subulata). — Rose,  white,  and  purple 

varieties  ;  spring  ;  4  inches. 

Greek  Valerian  (Polemonium  cceruleum). — Pale  blue  ; 
18  inches  ;  and  a  form  with  variegated  leaves. 

Jacob's  Ladder  (P.  reptans). — Bright  blue  ;  spreading; 
10  to  12  inches. 

Primrose  (Primula). — Common  Primrose  (P.  vulga- 
ris). — Many  colors  ;  protect.  Polyanthus  Primrose. — 
Yellow,  sulphur  brown,  etc. ;  spring  ;  4  to  6  inches. 

Lungwort  (Pulmonaria). — Narrow-leaved. — (P.  an- 
gustifolia). — Bright  blue;  April;  1  foot.  Spotted-leaved 
Lungwort  (P.  maculata). — Showy  foliage;  blue;  spring; 
1  foot. 

Feverfew,  Hardy  (Pyretlirum).  —  Scarlet,  crimson, 
rose,  and  other  colored  varieties  ;  spring  ;  15  inches. 

Sage,  Southern  (Salvia  azurea). — Deep  blue ;  2  to  3 
feet  ;  protect ;  some  other  species  are  desirable. 


HARDY  HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  133 

Wood-Hyacinth,  Squill  (Scilla). — A  charming  genus 
of  plants,  embracing  numerous  species  and  varieties, 
showing  many  shades  of  blue  flowers,  some  flowering 
early,  and  others  late. 

Sedum  or  Stone-crop. — See  Rock  Plants. 
Catchfly    (Silene):     Sea    Catchfly    (S.    maritima).— 
White;  June;  2  to  4  inches. 

Pennsylvania  Catchfly  (8.  Pennsylvania}. — Showy, 

pink;  June;  4  to  6  inches. 
Autumn    Catchfly    (S.    Schafta).  —  Purplish-rose; 

June;  6  inches. 
Oriental     Catchfly    (S.    orientalis).  —  Deep    rose  ; 

showy:  1  to  2  feet. 

Pink  Root  (Spigelia  Marilandica). — Scarlet;  June;  6 
to  18  inches;  protect. 

Meadow-Sweet  (Spiraea):  Goat's  Beard  (S.  Aruncus). 
—White;  4  feet. 

Dropwort  (S.  filipendula). — White;  fern-like  foliage; 

June;  1  to  2  feet. 

Purity  (S.  Ulmaria,  fl.  pi.). — White;  handsome; 
June;  2  feet ;  there  is  also  a  variety  of  this  with 
golden  variegated  foliage. 

Queen  of  the  Prairie  (8.  venusta). — Soft  rose;  sum- 
mer; 2  to  4  feet. 

Stokesia,  Blue  (StoTcesia  cyanea). — Blue  ;  August  and 
later;  2  feet. 

Spiderwort  (Tradescantia). — Blue Spiderwort  (T.  Vir- 
ginica). — Fine  blue  ;  of  this  species  there  are  a  number 
of  varieties,  including  white;  May;  1  to  2  feet. 

Flame- flower,  or  Red-hot  Poker  Plant  (Tritoma 
Uvaria). — There  are  a  number  of  varieties,  scarlet,  yel- 
low, etc. ;  September;  2  to  4  feet. 

Tulips  (Tulipd). — The  varieties  are  very  numerous, 
of  many  colors  and  shades,  single  and  double;  April  and 
May. 


134          ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

Speedwell  (Veronica):  V.  amethystina. — Amethyst 
blue;  summer;  12  to  18  inches. 

Gentian-leaved   Speedwell  ( F.   gentianoides). — Pale 

blue;  12  to  18  inches. 

Japanese   Speedwell   (F.    longifolia). —  Blue;  sum- 
mer; 1  to  2  feet. 

Periwinkle  (Vincd). — Lesser  Periwinkle  (  F.  minor). 
— Blue  and  white  varieties,  also  one  with  variegated 
leaves;  summer;  trailing;  1  to  2  feet. 

Greater  Periwinkle  ( F.  major}. — Blue ;  summer ;  1 

to  2  feet. 

Violet  ( Viola) :  Sweet  Violet  ( F.  odorata}.—  Violet; 
early  spring;  6  inches. 

White  Violet  (  V.  Uanda).—  Whitish. 

Birdfoot  Violet   (F.  pedata). — Bluish-lilac;   sandy 

soils. 
Horned  Violet  (F.  cornuta). — Blue;  summer;   3  to 

6  inches. 

Heart' s-ease  or  Pansy  ( Viola  tricolor).—  Many  beautiful 
colors. 

CLASS  II. — HARDY   PLANTS,  POSSESSING   SHOWY  FOLIAGE 

AND     FORMS,    WHICH     RENDER    THEM     PICTURESQUE     IN 

APPEARANCE,      AND      WELL      SUITED     FOR     GROUPS     ON 

THE     LAWN,    OR     FOR    SUB-TROPICAL  EFFECTS. 

Acanthus  (Acanthus). — Broad-leaved  Acanthus  (A. 
latifolius).—  White  ;  thick  leaves ;  2  to  4  feet ;  protect. 
Soft  Acanthus  (A.  mollis). — Rose;  showy  leaves;  3  feet; 
protect. 

Monkshood,  Autumn  (Aconitum  autumnale). — Pale 
blue;  6  feet. 

Acorus  gramineus,  var. — 2  to  6  inches. 

Grass,  Ribbon  (Phalaris  arundinacea,  var.). — 3  to  5 
feet. 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  135 

Grass,  Fescue  (Festuca  glauca). — Blue-leaved  ;  low; 
for  edgings. 

Dactylis — Orchard  Grass  (D.  glomerata).  —  A  varie- 
gated form  with  striped  foliage,  of  good  habit. 

Grass,  Pampas  (Gynerium  argenteum}. — Grand  in  rich 
soil;  6  to  9  feet ;  protect. 

Grass,  Panic  (Panicum  virgatum). — Stately ;  4  to  6 
feet. 

Bugle,  Red-leaved  (Ajuga  reptans). — Purple  leaves;  6 
inches. 

Alfredia,  Nodding  (Alfredia  cernua). — Yellow;  cut 
leaves;  6  feet. 

Wormwood  (Artemisia). — A.  Stelleriana,  silvery  foli- 
age; 9  to  18  inches.  A.  vulgar  is,  delicately  cut  leaves; 
3  feet. 

Eeed  (Arundo  Donax). — A  handsome  gigantic  grass, 
forming  clumps;  8  to  12  feet. 

t  The  Variegated  Eeed  is  a  variety  of  the  above,  with 
foliage  striped  with  white. 

Bocconia  (B.  cordata). — Whitish  leaves;  flowers  in 
August;  6  to  8  feet. 

Bupthalmum  (B.  speciosum). — Large  leaves ;  yellow 
flowers;  summer;  2  feet. 

Thistle,  Globe  (Echinops  Ritro). — Blue;  showy  leaves; 
summer;  2  to  3  feet.  x 

Lyme  Grass  (Elymus  arenaria). — Very  narrow,  gray 
grass;  2  feet. 

Erianthus  Ravenna. — Valuable  showy  grass;  6  to  12 
feet. 

Eringo  (Eringium). — Amethystine  Eringo  (K  ame- 
tJiystinum). — Blue;  showy  cut  foliage;  summer;  2  feet. 
Yucca-leaved  Eringo  (E.  yucccBfolium). — White  ;  yucca- 
like  leaves. 

Eulalia,  Variegated  (Eulalia  Japonica  variegata).^ 
Striped  grass;  4  to  6  feet;  protect.  Zebra  Eulalia  (var. 
Zebrina). — Leaves  striped  crosswise;  protect. 


136 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


Plantain  Lily,  Variegated  (Funkia  undulata  medio- 
picta). — Yellow-striped;  6  to  12  inches. 

Sunflower,  Graceful  (Heliantlms  orgyalis}. — Yellow  ; 
handsome  leaves;  8  to  10  feet. 

Day  Lily,  Variegated  (Hemerocallis  Kwanso  var.).— 
White  striped  foliage. 


Fig.  8.— YTJCCJL 

Mint,  Variegated  (Mentlia  rotundifolia  var.). — Foliage 
blotched  with  yellow. 

Whorl  Flower  (Morina  longifolia). — Kose;  large  leaves; 
2  to  3  feet;  protect. 

, 4  Ehubarb,  Indian  (Rheum  Emodi). — Large,  showy 
leaves ;  2  to  3  feet. — Palm-leaved  Khubarb  (R.  palma- 
Deeply  lobed,  showy  leaves;  6  to  8  feet. 


HARDY  HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  137 

Clary,  Silver  (Salvia  argented). — Large,  white,  woolly 
leaves;  2  to  3  feet. 

Sage,  Variegated  (Salvia  officinalis  tricolor). — Leaves 
blotched,  white;  1  foot. 

Lavender  Cotton  (Santolina  ChamcBcyparissus).  — 
Silvery  leaves;  1  foot. 

Sedum. — There  are  several  species  with  showy  foliage, 
such  as  8.  spectabile;  8.  cruciatum;  the  Live-for-ever, 
etc.  See  Eock  Plants. 

Compass  Plant  (Silphium  Zaa'm'a^ww).— Large  pinnate 
leaves. — Cup  Plant  (S.  perfoliatum). — Yellow,  of  strong 
growth;  4  to  6  feet. 

Comfrey,  Variegated  (Symphytum  officinale  var.). — 
Gold  variegated;  1  to  2  feet. 

Thyme,  Lemon,  Variegated-leaved  (Thymus  citriodo- 
rus). — Golden  Variegated. — Common  Variegated-leaved 
Thyme  (T.  Serpyllum). — White  variegated. 

Yucca,  or  Adam's  Needle  (Yucca  filamentosa). — 
White;  3  to  4  feet. 

Narrow-leaved  Yucca  (Y.  angustifolia). — White;  2 

to  4  feet. 

•Date  Yucca  (Y.  baccata). — Large  throughout ;  2  to 
10  feet;  protect. 

CLASS     III. — HARDY     PLANTS,     MOSTLY     AS     FOUND     IN 

THEIR     WILD     STATE,     AND     COMPARATIVELY     LACKING 

SOMEWHAT    IN    ATTRACTIVENESS. 

The  plants  of  this  list,  while  not  averaging  as  fine  in 
general  quality  as  those  of  preceding  classes,  would  still, 
in  most  instances,  be  prized  if  given  a  place  in  the 
border,  while  all  are  desirable  for  naturalization  in  the 
Wild-garden.  With  many  the  flowers  are  handsome,  but 
the  foliage  or  the  habit  of  the  plants  may  be  compara- 
tively coarse,  while  sometimes  just  the  reverse  is  the 


138  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

case.     Then  again  a  single  plant  of  this  class  makes  no 
show,  but  a  mass  of  them  is  very  attractive. 

Yarrow  or  Milfoil  (Achillea). — Kose-flowered  Yarrow 
(A.  millefolium  roseum). — Rose;  summer;  18  inches  ; 
there  is  also  a  deep-red  variety  of  this, 

Double-flowering  Sneeze  wort  (A.  Ptarmica,  fl.  pi.). 

— White;  15  inches. 
Hoary-leaved    Yarrow   (A.  filipendula). —  Yellow; 

summer;  2  feet. 

May  Apple,  Oregon  (Achlys  triphylla). — White;  fra- 
grant; 15  inches. 

Monkshood,  or  Wolfsbane  (Aconitum). — These  have 
poisonous  roots. 

Japan  Monkshood   (A.   Japonicum). — Deep  blue  ; 

August;  18  inches. 

Common   Monkshood  (A.  Napellus). — Blue  ;  sum- 
mer; 2  feet. 

Baneberry  (Actcea),  White  Baneberry  (A.  alba). — 
Summer;  2  to  3  feet. 

Cut-leaved  Baneberry  (A.  spicata). — Neat  and  grace- 
ful; 18  inches. 
Red  Baneberry,  a  variety  of  the  above,  with  red 

berries;  2  feet. 

Bugle,  Blue-flowered  (Ajuga  pyramidalis).  —  Blue  ; 
spring;  3  inches. 

Star  Grass,  Yellow  (Aletris  aurea). — Yellow  ;  July ; 
2  to  3  feet.  Colic  Root  Star  Grass  (A  farinosa). — 
White;  July;  2  to  3  feet. 

Allium,  Golden  (Allium  Moly). — Golden;  summer;  1 
foot.  There  are  various  other  species  of  Allium  of  dif- 
ferent colors,  such  as  white,  rose,  lilac,  etc. 

Alstrsemeria  (A.  aurantiaca). — Orange,  lily-like  flow- 
ers; summer  and  autumn;  2  to  4  feet. 

Amianthium  (A.  musccetoxicum).  —  White ;  broad 
leaves  ;  summer. 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  139 

Amsonia,  Hairy  (Amsonia  angustifolia). — Pale  blue  ; 
protect. 

Willow-leaved  Amsonia  (A.  Taberncemontana}. — Pale 
blue;  May;  2  feet. 

Anemone,  or  Windflower,  Yellow  (Anemone  ranun- 
culoides}. — Spring;  6  inches. 

Snowdrop  Anemone  (A.   sylvestris). — Pure  white; 

spring ;  1  foot. 

Long-fruited  Anemone  (A.  cylindrica). — Greenish- 
white;  spring. 
Pennsylvania  Anemone  (A.  Pennsylvania). — White 

and  pink;  12  inches. 
American  Pasque  Flower  (A.  patens,  var.  Nuttali- 

ana). — White  or  purplish  ;  spring. 
Mountain  Everlasting  (Antennaria  dioica). — White; 
summer;  trails. 

Butterfly  Weed  (Asclepias  tuber osa). — Orange  ;  July  ; 
2  feet.  Milkweed  (A.  verticillata). — Greenish- white ;  1 
to  2  feet. 

Asphodel  (Asphodelus). — There  are  a  number  of  spe- 
cies, mostly  with  yellow  and  white  flowers;  May  to  July; 
2  to  4  feet. 

Aster  (Aster). — Of  many  species,  the  following  are 
noteworthy  here  : 

New  England  Aster   (A.    Novce-Anglice). — Violet 

purple;  4  feet. 

New  Belgian  Aster  (A.  Novi-Belgii). — Dark  crim- 
son. 
Oblong-leaved  Aster  (A.  oblongifolius). — Purple  and 

yellow;  2  to  3  feet. 
Long-leaved  Aster  (A.   longifolius).  —  Handsome 

form  and  foliage;  2  feet. 

False  Indigo  (Baptisia) :  Blue  False  Indigo  (B.  aus- 
tralis.—Blne  ;  June  ;  2  to  5  feet.  White  False  Indigo 
(B.  alba). — Purplish  tinged;  2  to  3  feet. 


140  .         ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

Berlandiera  (B.  tomenlosa). — Yellow ;    downy  leaves ; 

1  to  3  feet. 

Betonica  (B.  officinalis). — Purple;  July;  2  feet. 

Boltonia  (B.  glastifolia}.—  White;  3  to  5  feet. 

Brodi8ea,Allium-like  (Brodicea  congestd). — Lilac;  sum- 
mer ;  18  inches.  Large-flowered  Brodiaea  (B.  grandi- 
flora). — Bluish-purple;  1  foot. 

Brunella,  Large-flowered  (Brunella  grandiflora). — 
Purplish-blue;  summer;  9  inches. 

Callirrhoe,  Crimson  (Callirrhoe  involucratd). — Crim- 
son; summer;  1  foot. 

Callirrhoe,  Large-rooted  (C.  alcceoides). — White; 
summer  ;  2  feet ;  protect.  Callirrhoe,  Triangular 
(C.  triangulata). — Purple;  2  feet. 

Butterfly  Tulip  (Colochortus  Gunnisoni).— White;  6  to 
8  inches. 

Senna,  American  (Cassia  Marilandica}.  —  Yellow; 
summer;  3  to  4  feet. 

Cupidone,  Blue  (Catananche  ccerulea). — Sky-blue; 
summer;  2  to  3  feet. 

Centaurea,  Mountain  (Centaurea  montana). — Blue  ; 
showy;  June  and  July;  3  feet.  Centaurea,  Giant-headed 
(C.  macrocephala). — Bright  yellow;  June  and  July; 

2  feet. 

Valerian,  Eed  (Centranthus  ruler). — Red;  June;  2 
feet;  also  a  white  variety. 

Chelone,  Snake's-Head  ( Chelone  gldbra). — White  and 
rose;  1  to  2  feet. 

Clematis,  Erect  (Clematis  erecta). — Whitish;  small; 
June;  3  to  4  feet.  Clematis,  Entire-leaved  (C.  integri- 
folia). — Blue  and  white;  June;  2  feet. 

Clintonia,  Northern  (Clintonia  boreatis). — Yellowish  ; 
6  inches. 

Coreopsis  (Coreopsis). — There  are  several  species  ;  yel- 
low; June;  1  to  3  feet. 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS. 


141 


Coronilla  (Coronilla  varia). — Deep  rose  to  white; 
June;  2  feet. 

Golden  Aster  (Chrysopsis  Mariana). — Golden  yellow  ; 
late  summer;  G  to  12  inches. 

Crosswort,  Long-styled  (Crucianella  stylosa). — Pink; 
summer;  12  to  18  inches. 


Fig.  9.— KUDBECKIA  MAXIMA. 

Leopard's  Bane  (Doronicum  Caucasicum). — Yellow; 
spring;  1  foot. 

Cone  Flower,  Purple  (Echinacea  purpurea). — Maroon 
and  purple;  4  feet. 

Cone  Flower,  Great  (Rudbeckia  maxima).  —  Large; 
yellow;  6  feet;  protect. 


142  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

Gone  Flower,  Shining  (R.  nitida).  —  Large  golden 
rays;  showy. 

Fleabane  Rose  (Erigeron  macranthum). — Purple;  July; 
2  feet. 

Stork's  Bill,  Showy  (Erodium  Manescavi). — Purplish- 
red;  summer;  early  spring;  15  inches. 

Aconite,  Winter  (Eranthis  hy emails). — Pale  yellow  ; 
early  spring;  3  to  6  inches. 

Eupatorium,  White  Snake-root  (Eupatorium  ager- 
atoides). — Late  summer;  3  feet.  There  are  a  number  of 
other  desirable  species. 

Spurge,  Flowering. — (Euphorbia  corollata). — White  ; 
July  to  October;  2  to  3  feet. 

Spurge,  Glaucous  (E.  Myrsinites). — Yellow;  prostrate; 
July. 

Gaura,  Narrow-leaved  (Gaura  angustifolid). — From 
the  Southern  States;  white;  summer;  3  feet. 

Gentian,  Closed  (Gentiana  Andrewsii). — Azure  blue; 
12  to  18  inches. 

Gentian,  Cross  wort  (G.  cruciata). — Brilliant  blue;  6 
inches. 

Geranium,  or  Cranesbill,  Blood- red  ( Geranium  sangui- 
neum). — Purplish-red  ;  summer  ;  6  inches.  Geranium, 
Broad-petaled  (G.  platypetalum}. — Violet  and  red;  18 
inches. 

Avens,  Scarlet  (Geum  coccineum). — Bright  scarlet; 
summer;  1  to  2  feet;  also  a  double  variety. 

Bowman's  Root  (Gillenia  trifoliata). — Rosy-white; 
July;  1  to  2  feet. 

Gypsophila,  Acute-leaved  (Gypsophila  aciitifolia),  — 
White;  summer;  12  to  20  inches.  Gypsophila,  Panicled 
(G.  paniculata). — White;  summer;  2  to  4  feet. 

Sunflower,  Narrow-leaved  (Helianthus  angustifolius). 
Yellow  ;  autumn  ;  3  feet.  Sunflower,  Soft-leaved  (H. 
mollis). — Autumn;  2  to  4  feet. 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  143 

Rose  Mallow,  Swamp  (Hibiscus  Moscheutos). — Pale 
rose;  late  summer;  2  to  4  feet. 

Rose  Mallow,   Large-flowered  (H.  grandiflorus). — 

Both  white  and  red;  4  to  5  feet. 
Rose  Mallow,  Californian  (H.  Calif ornicus). — White, 

with  purple  centre;  3  to  5  feet. 

Hawkweed,  Orange-colored  (Hieracium  aurantiacum). 
— Bright  orange;  June;  1  foot. 

Hyssop  (Hyssopus  officindlis). — Blue  and  white  sorts; 
summer;  2  feet. 

Hyssop,  Giant  (Lophanthus  anisatus). — Lavender ; 
fragrant  leaves;  2  feet. 

Flax,  Perennial  (Linum  perenne). — Fine  blue  ;  sum- 
mer; 12  to  18  inches.  There  are  also  varieties  of  white, 
rose,  and  lilac  colors. 

Lobelia,  Great  Blue  (Lobelia  syphilitica). — Purplish- 
blue;  1  to  2  feet.  Cardinal  Flower  (L.  cardinalis). — 
Fine  scarlet;  late  summer;  2  to  4  feet. 

Trefoil,  Bird's-foot  (Lotus  corniculatus). —  Yellow; 
summer;  trailing.  Also  a  double  variety. 

Lupine,  Many-leaved  (Lupinus  polyphyllus). — Blue  ; 
summer;  1  to  4  feet;  protect. 
Loosestrife,  Yellow  (Lysimachia  vulgaris). — Yellow; 

June,  July;  2  feet. 

Loosestrife,  Clethra-like  (L.    clethroides). — White; 
autumn;  I1/,  to  2  feet. 

Moneywort  (L.  nummularia). — Yellow  ;  late  sum- 
mer; prostrate. 

Mallow,  Moren's  (Malva  Morenii). —  Reddish;  late 
summer;  2  to  3  feet. 

Lungwort,  Panicled  (Mertensia  paniculata). — Blue; 
July;  1  to  2  feet. 

Virginia  Cowslip,  or  Lungwort  (M.     Virginica). — 
Fine  blue;  spring;  1  to  3  feet. 


144  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

Monkey  Flower,  Cardinal  (Mimulus  cardinalis). — 
Scarlet;  1  to  2  feet;  protect. 

Bee-Balm,  or  Horsemint  (Monarda  didyma). — Bright 
red  ;  summer;  2  to  3  feet;  protect. 

Catnip,  Mussin's  (Nepeta  Mussini).  —  Azure  blue  ; 
downy;  fragrant  leaves;  June;  1  foot. 

White  Cup  (Nierembergia  rivularis). — Creamy  white; 
June;  3  inches. 

Evening  Primrose,  Missouri  ( (Enothera  Missouriensis). 
— Yellow;  prostrate.  Evening  Primrose,  Tall  "White 
(CE.  speciosa). — White  and  purple;  6  inches  to  2  feet. 

Mountain  Spurge  (Pachysandra  procumbens). — Purple 
and  white;  prostrate. 

St.  Bernard's  Lily  (Anthericum  Liliago). — White  in 
spikes;  summer;  1  foot. 

Dragon  Head  (Physostegia  Virginiana). —  Purplish 
red;  4  feet. 

Knotweed,  Giant  (Polygonum  cuspidatum). — White ; 
summer ;  31/,,  to  8  feet.  Knotweed,  Ked  (P.  vaccini- 
folium). — Rose;  autumn;  6  to  10  inches. 

Pentstemon,  Scarlet  (P.  barbatus). — Scarlet;  summer; 
3  feet. 

Cinquefoil,  Pyrenian  (Potentillapyrenaica). — Yellow; 
May;  dwarf. 

Turfing  Daisy  (Pyrethrum  Tchihatcliewii}. — For  cover- 
ing poor  soils;  3  inches. 

Buttercup,  or  Crowfoot,  Double  (Ranunculus  tulbo- 
sus). — Yellow;  spring;  18  inches. 

Buttercup,  Rhomboid  (R.  rhomboideus). — Deep  yel- 
low; spring;  3  to  6  inches. 

Crowfoot,  Early  (R.  fascicularis), — Bright  yellow  ; 
5  to  9  inches. 

Skullcap  (Scutellaria). — Numerous  species;  purplish; 
summer. 

Groundsel   (Senecio). — A  few  of  the  Groundsels  are 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  145 

quite  ornamental.  Golden  Ragweed  (S.  aureus). — Yel- 
low; cut  leaves;  1  to  2  feet. 

Satin  Flower  (Sisyrinchium  grandifloruni). — Purple  ,• 
spring;  6  to  10  inches. 

Golden  Rod  (Solidago). — A  number  of  species;  yellow; 
autumn;  3  to  8  feet. 

Solomon's  Seal  (Polygonatum  vulgare). — "White  ;  2  to 
3  feet.  Solomon's  Seal,  Japan  (var.  macranthuni). — 
White;  May;  2  to  4  feet. 

Hedge-Nettle,  Woolly  (Stachys  lanata). — Purple;  July; 
1  foot.  Hedge-Nettle,  Scarlet  (coccinea).  —  Scarlet; 
July ;  3  to  4  feet. 

Sea  Pink,  or  Thrift  (Armeria  vulgaris). — Rosy-lilac ; 
summer;  6  inches. 

Costmary  (Tanacetum  Balsamita).  —  Pale  yellow; 
autumn. 

Meadow  Rue,  Showy  ( Thalictrum  speciosum). — Showy ; 
yellow;  3  to  4  feet.  Meadow  Rue,  Columbine  (T.  aqui- 
legifoUum. — Purplish;  2  to  3  feet. 

Star  Flower,  Spring  (Triteleia  uniflora). — Whitish; 
spring;  4  to  6  inches;  protect. 

Bellwort  (Uvularia). — A  number  of  sorts;  yellowish; 
6  inches  to  2  feet. 

Valerian  ( Valeriana  officinalis). — Blush  white;  June  ; 
3  feet. 

Verbena,  Hardy  ( Verbena  bipinnatifida,  .also  called  V. 
montana). — Rosy-lilac;  summer;  9  inches. 

CLASS  IV. — ALPINES  AND   ROCK  PLANTS. 

The  plants  under  this  head  are  mostly  natives  of  high 
elevations,  and  lovers  of  dry,  sandy,  or  stony  soil,  hence 
perfectly  at  home  on  rockwork.  Nearly  all  do  well  in 
the  border,  but  being  of  small  stature,  they  should  be 
planted  at  the  front. 
7 


146  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

Thrift,  Prickly  (Acantholimon  glumaceum). — Rose; 
summer;  6  inches. 

Thrift,  Common  (Armeria  vulgaris). — Pink;  summer; 
6  inches. 

Thrift,  Plantain-like  (A.  plantaginea). — Purplish- 
red. 

Milfoil,  Woolly  (Achillea  tomentosa). — Yellow;  sum- 
mer; 8  inches. 

Golden  Tuft  (Alyssum  saxatile). — Yellow;  grayish 
leaves;  spring;  1  foot. 

Golden  Tuft,  Dense  (var.  compactum). — More  com- 
pact than  the  parent. 

Kidney  Vetch,  Mountain  (Anthyllis  montana). — Pink; 
summer;  6  inches. 

Columbine,  Wild  (Aquilegia  Canadensis). — Scarlet 
and  yellow;  May;  1  foot  to  18  inches. 

Eock  Cress  (Arabis). — Several  species;  white;  spring; 
dwarf. 

Sandwort  (Arenaria). — Several  species;  white;  early 
summer;  low. 

Meadow  Saffron,  Spring  (Bulbocodium  vernum). — 
Violet;  early  spring;  6  inches. 

Aubriecia  (Aubrietid). — Several  species;  white  and 
purple;  spring  and  summer;  3  inches. 

Quamash  (Camassia). — Several  species;  blue;  purple, 
etc. ;  12  to  15  inches. 

Harebell,  Common  (Campanula  rotundifolia). — Deep 
blue;  6  to  12  inches. 

Harebell,  Ligurian  (C.  isophylla}. — Blue;  4  inches. 
Harebell,    Carpathian     (C.     Carpatica).  —  Large, 

showy;  blue;  9  inches. 

Mouse-ear  Chickweed,  Woolly  (Cerastium  tomen- 
tosum). — White;  summer;  2  to  6  inches. 

Mouse-ear  Chickweed,  Boissier's  (C.  Boissieri). 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  147 

Wallflower,  Alpine  (CJieiranthus  alpinus). — Yellow; 
spring;  9  inches. 

Spring  Beauty  (Claytonia  Virginica). —  Rose  ;  early 
spring;  6  inches. 

Clematis,  Herbaceous  (Clematis).  —  Several  orna- 
mental species;  purplish;  6  to  12  inches. 

Barrenwort,  Alpine  (Epimedium  alpinum). — Purplish; 
May;  6  to  9  inches. 

Barrenwort,  Large  yellow  (E.  pinnatum). 

Erinus,  Alpine  (Erinus  alpinus).  —  Purplish  and 
white  ;  3  to  6  inches. 

Gentian,  Stemless  (Gentiana  acaulis). — Velvet  blue  ; 
May;  1  to  3  inches. 

Geum,  Mountain  (Geum  montanum). — Bright  yellow; 
9  to  18  inches. 

Ground  Ivy  (Nepeta  Glechoma).  —  Robust,  dense 
creeper. 

Bluets,  Common  (Houstonia  cwrulea).  —  Shade  of 
blue;  early  spring;  3  to  6  inches. 

Bluets,  Thyme-leaved  (H.  serpyllifolia). 

Toadflax,  Alpine  (Linaria  alpina*). — Violet  and  yel- 
low; 3  to  6  inches. 

Lychnis,  Rock  (Lychnis  Lagascce). — Bright  rose;  sum- 
mer; 3  to  6  inches. 

Catchfly,  German  (L.  Viscaria,  var.  splendens). — 
Bright  red;  12  to  18  inches. 

Prickly  Pear  (Opuntia  Rafinesquii). — Hardy  Cactus; 
yellow;  6  to  10  inches. 

Wood  Sorrel,  Violet  (Oxalis  violacea). — Violet;  spring; 

5  to  9  inches. 

Partridge,  or  Squaw  Berry  (Mitchella  repens). — White; 
scarlet  fruit;  trailing. 

Pentstemon,  Acute-leaved  (Pentstemon  acuminatus). — 
Lilac;  6  to  20  inches;  protect. 

Phlox,  Douglas's  (Phlox  Douglasii  — Whitish  purple ; 

6  to  12  inches. 


148 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


Phlox,    Lovely   (P.    amasna).— Pinkish ;     G   to   12 

inches. 

Pine-barren  Beauty  (Pyxidanthera  barbulata). — Pink- 
ish white;  spring;  prostrate. 

Soapwort,  Rock  (Soponaria  ocymoides). — Rosy-pink ; 
summer;  6  to  12  inches. 


Fig.  10.— THICK-LEAVED  SAXIFRAGE  (Soxifraga  crassifolid). 

Saxifrage,  Early  (Saxifraga    Virginiensis). — White; 
6  inches. 

Saxifrage,    Heart-leaved     (8.    cordifolia). —  Blush- 
red;  April  and  May;  6  to  9  inches. 
Saxifrage,  Thick-leaved  (S.  crassifolid). — Resembles 

the  last. 

Saxifrage,  Strap-leaved  (8.    ligulata). — Red  ;  dark- 
red  foliage;  spring;  6  to  9  inches. 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS    PLANTS.  119 

Stonecrop  or  Scdum  (Sedurri), — There  are  many  spe- 
cies and  varieties,  of  which  but  a  few  are  named  here ; 
all  do  equally  well  in  the  border. 

Love  Entangle  (8.  acre). — Several  forms;  yellow; 

3  inches. 
Stonecrop,  Orange-flowering  (S.  Kamtschaticuni). — 

Yellow;  fine;  July;  6  inches. 
Sedum,   Beautiful   (S.  pulchellum). —  Pink;  July; 

6  inches. 

Sedum,  Poplar-leaved  (S.  populifolium). — Creamy- 
white;  August;  6  inches. 
Sedum,    Siebold's    (8.     Sieboldii).—  Eosy-purple ; 

autumn;  also  a  variegated  form. 
Sedum,    Showy     (S.    spectaUle).  —  Kosy  purple ; 

autumn. 
Live-for-ever  (S.   Telephmm). — Purple  ;  summer;  2 

feet. 
Live-for-ever,    Dark-red   (var.    liybridum).  —  Very 

showy  foliage  and  flowers. 

Houseleek  (Sempervivum). — Numerous  species;  showy 
in  flowers  and  leaves. 

Catch  fly,  Alpine  (Silene  alpestris). — White ;  3  to  6 
inches. 

Tunica,  Kock  (Tunica  Saxifraga). — Whitish;  summer; 
3  to  4  inches. 

Speedwell,  Alpine  ( Veronica  alpina). — Bluish  ;  2  to 
12  inches. 

Strawberry,  Barren  ( Waldsteinia  fragarioides). — Yel- 
low; summer;  2  to  G  inches. 
• 

CLASS  V. — FERNS   AND   SHADE-LOVING   PLANTS. 

This  list  embraces  such  plants,  as  are  usually  met  in 
partly  open  woods,  exiting  our  admiration  by  their  simple 
beauty,  and  often  by  the  sweetness  of  their  flowers. 
Directions  are  given  in  Part  IV  for  preparing  a  soil  that 


150  OBNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

will  suit  them.  While  all  love  moisture,  they  will  not 
do  well  where  it  is  exceedingly  wet.  Some  prefer  the 
elevation  that  rockwork  in  the  shade  affords.  In  these 
cases  the  fact  is  stated  along  with  the  descriptions. 

Anemone,  Wood  (Anemone  nemorosa). — White;  early 
spring;  6  inches.  Double  Wood  Anemone. — Double; 
white  ;  6  inches.  Double  Bracted  Anemone  (var.  brac- 
teata). — Double ;  white  ;  green  bracts.  Double  Rose- 
colored  Anemone. — Double  ;  red. 

Apennine  Anemone  (A.  Apennind). — Bright  blue  ; 

early  spring;  6  inches. 

Adam  and  Eve  (Aplectrum  hyemale). — A  hardy  native 
orchid. 

Jack  in  the  Pulpit  (Arisama  triphyllum). — Purple 
and  white;  18  inches. 

Snakeroot,  Virginian  (AristolocUa  Serpentaria). — 
Purple;  summer;  18  inches. 

Snakeroot,  Canadian  (Asarum  Canadense). — Brown- 
ish-purple; spring. 

Snakeroot,  Heart-leaved  (A.  Virginicum). — Purple 

and  green;  April;  low. 

Tailed  Snakeroot  (A.  caudatuni). — Brownish-purple. 
Cornus,  Dwarf,  or  Bunch  Berry  (Cornus  Canadensis). 
White;  June;  5  to  7  inches. 

Lady's  Slipper,  Stemless  (Cypripedium  acaule).— 
Rosy-purple;  May;  10  inches. 

Lady's   Slipper,  European  ( C.    Calceolus).  —  Dark- 
brown;  2  feet. 

Cowslip,  American  or  Shooting  Star  (Dodecatheon 
Meadia. — Rose;  spring;  8  to  12  inches.  • 

Cowslip,  American,  Jaffray's  (var.   lancifolium). — 

A  larger  variety. 

Trailing  Arbutus,  or  Mayflower  (Epigcea  repens). — 
White  and  pink;  prostrate. 

Ferns  and  Brakes. — The  following  are  some  of  the 
most  useful  hardy  species  : 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  151 

Maide.n-hair  Fern,  Hardy  (Adiantum  pedatum). — 9 
to  15  inches. 

Fragrant  Wood  Fern  (Aspidium  fragrans). — 4  to  12 
inches. 

Shield  Fern  (A.  acrosticliiodes). — 1  to  2  feet. 

Chamisso's  Shield  Fern  (A.  munitum). — 1  to  5  feet. 

Spleen  wort  (Asplenium  ebeneum). — 8  inches  and  up- 
ward. 

Moonwort  (Botrychium). — There  are  several  species. 

Walking  Fern  (Camptosorus  rhizophyllus). — Pros- 
trate. 

Lip  Fern,  Hairy  (Cheilanthes  vestitd).-6  to  15  inches. 


Fig.  11. — DOWNY  LIP  FEHN  ( UfoflantTies  tomentosa). 

Lip  Fern,  Downy  (C.    tomentosa). — Eather  stout; 

12  to  20  inches;  protect. 
Deer  Fern  (Lomaria  Spicant). — Evergreen;    6  to 

30  inches. 
Flowering  Fern  (Osmunda). — Several  species  ;  2  to 

5  feet. 


152  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

Polypod  Fern  (Polypodium  vulgare). — Evergreen;  4 

to  10  inches. 

Chain  Fern  (  Woodsia  Ilvejisis). — 2  to  6  inches. 
Cliff  Brake  (Pellcea  atropurpurea). — 2  to  6  inches. 
Common  Brake  (Pteris  aquilina). — 2  feet. 

Fritillaria,  Lance- leaved  (Fritillaria  lanceolata).  — 
Purple  ;  summer;  6  inches. 

Fritillaria,  Purple  (F.  atropurpurea). — Purplish  ;  4 
to  20  inches. 

Rattlesnake  Plantain  (Goodyerd). — Several  species  with 
fine  leaves;  shaded  rocky. 

Christmas  Rose,  Common  (Helleborus  niger). — Green- 
ish-white; early  spring;  1  foot. 

Christmas  Rose,  Dark  Purple  (H.  atrorubens). — Pur- 
plish-red; 1  foot. 

Helonias,  Spiked  (Helonias  bullata). — Showy  purple; 
May;  1  to  2  feet. 

Hepatica,  or  Liverleaf  (Hepatica). — Shades  of  blue  ; 
early  spring.  There  are  various  colors,  and  single  and 
double  varieties. 

Orchis,  Showy  (Orchis  spectaMlis). — Pink,  purple, 
white  lip  ;  4  to  8  inches. 

Polygala,  Fringed  (Polygala  paucifolia). — Purple;  3 
to  4  inches. 

Rosette  Mullein  (Ramondia  Pyrenaica). — Purple  and 
orange;  2  to  6  inches. 

Meadow  Beauty  (Rhexia  Virginica). — Reddish-purple; 
neat;  8  to  12  inches. 

Bloodroot  (Sanguinaria  Canadensis). — Purple;  white; 
early  spring;  3  to  8  inches. 

Club  Moss  (Selaginella). — Several  useful  native  species. 

False  Solomon's  Seal  (Smilacina  stellata). — White  ; 
summer;  1  to  2  feet. 

Wake  Robin,  Nodding  (Trillium  cernuum). — White; 
nodding;  spring;  12  to  18  inches. 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS  PLANTS.  153 

Wake  Eobin,  Painted  (T.  erythrocarpum). — "White 

and  purple;  spring;  8  to  12  inches. 
Wake   Robin,  Snowy   (T.    nivale). — Small;  white; 

early  spring;  2  to  4  inches. 

Wood  Lily  (T.  grandiflorum). — Large;  white,  chang- 
ing to  rose. 

Violet,  Canada  (  Viola  Canadensis). — Whitish  ;  sum- 
mer; 1  foot. 

Violet,  Yellow  (V.  pubescens). — Yellow;  spring;  6 

to  12  inches. 
Violet,  Arrow-leaved  (F.  sagittata). — Purplish  blue; 

spring. 

May  Apple  (Podophyllum  peltatum). — White ;  May ; 
1  foot. 

CLASS  VI. — AQUATIC  AND  BOQ   PLANTS. 

An  interesting  class  of  plants,  and  quite  easy  to  grow, 
where  attention  to  their  simple  requirements  is  paid;  re- 
specting these,  some  information  is  given  in  Part  IV  as 
to  place  and  soil. 

Sweet  Flag  (Acorus  Calamus). — Greenish  ;  sword-like 
leaves;  2  to  3  feet. 

Green  Dragon  (Arisama  Dracontium).  —  Greenish  ; 
divided  leaves. 

Water  Shield  (Brasenia  peltata). — Dark  purple;  July. 

Calopogon  (C.  pulchellus). — An  orchid;  purple;  1  foot. 

Marsh  Marigold  (Caltlia palustris).—  Yellow  ;  spring; 
1  foot.  Marsh  Marigold,  Double. — A  variety  of  the  above. 

Calypso,  Northern  (Calypso  borealis). — An  orchid  ; 
pink  and  yellow. 

Lady's  Slipper,  Showy  (Cypripedium  spectdbile). — 
White,  crimson ;  July;  1  to  2  feet. 

Lady's    Slipper,   Small   White    (C.    candidum). — 
Greenish- white;  1  foot. 


154  OBNAMENTAL  GAEDENING. 

Lady's  Slipper,  Small  Yellow   (0.  parviflorum). — 

Yellow;  spring;  1  to  2  feet. 
Lady's  Slipper,  Ram's  Head  (C.  arietinum). — Red 

and  white;  June;  6  to  10  inches. 
Pitcher  Plant,  California  (Darlingtonia  California). 
Purplish;  1  to  3  feet;  protect. 

Marsh  Calla  (Calla  palustris). — White;  summer;  6  to 
9  inches. 

Sundew,  Thread-leaved   (Drosera  filiformis). — Rose  ; 
summer;  6  to  12  inches. 

Sundew,  Round-leaved  (D.   rotundifolia). — White ; 

summer;  6  inches. 

Fringed  Orchis,  Yellow  (Habenaria  ciliaris). — Yellow; 
summer;  1  to  2  feet. 

Fringed  Orchis,  White  (H.  Wephariglottis).— White; 

12  to  15  inches. 
Fringed    Orchis,   Purple   (H.   fimbriata).  —  Lilac, 

purple;  1  to  2  feet. 
Fringed   Orchis,    Small  Purple   (H.    psy  codes).  — 

Purple;  fragrant;  12  to  18  inches. 
Cardinal  Flower  (Lobelia  cardinalis). — Intense  scarlet; 
1  to  3  feet. 

Water  Lily,   White    (NympJicea   odorata).  —  White, 
changing  to  rose. 

Water   Lily,   Yellow    (Nupliar    advena).  —  Yellow ; 
summer. 

Golden  Club  (Orontium  aquaticum). — Elliptic  leaves  ; 
fine  for  ponds. 

Grass  of  Parnassus   (Parnassia  asarifolia). — White  ; 
summer;  3  to  6  inches. 

Pogonia  (Pogonia). — A  hardy  orchid  ;    a  number  of 
species. 

Centaury,   American    (Sabbatia    chloroides).  —  Rose ; 
summer;  12  to  18  inches. 

Centaury,  Lance-leaved  (8.    lanceolata). — White  ;  1 
to  3  feet. 


HARDY   HERBACEOUS   PLANTS.  155 

Arrow  Head  (Sagittaria  variabilis). — Aquatic,  with 
pretty  leaves. 

Pitcher-Plant,  Side-Saddle  Flower  (Sarracenia  pur- 
pured). — Purple ;  1  foot.  There  are  several  other  in- 
teresting species  of  Sarracenia. 


Fig.  12.— ARROW  HEAD  (Sagittario.  varidbttis). 

Globe  Flower,  American  (Trollius  laxus). — Greenish- 
yellow;  May;  1  foot. 

Cat-tail,  or  Reed   Mace   (TypJia    latifolia). — Brown; 
summer;  3  to  5  feet. 

Cat-tail,  Narrow-leaved   (T.    angustifolia). — More 

slender  and  smaller. 

Pickerel  Weed  (Pontederia  caudata). — Blue  ;  July  ;  a 
fine  water-plant. 


156  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

CHAPTEE     X. 

ANNUAL  PLANTS. 

What  are  known  as  Annuals,  are  those  plants  which 
owe  their  perpetuation,  especially  in  the  North,  to  seeds, 
or  to  bulbs  which  are  taken  up  in  the  fall  and  started  new- 
ly with  every  year.  The  plants  grow  up,  flower,  produce 
a  new  crop  of  seed  or  bulbs,  and  then  die,  all  in  one  season. 
Although  the  lists  of  annual  flowers  in  the  catalogues 
are  usually  very  extensive — some  German  catalogues 
containing  lists  of  no  less  than  three  thousand  different 
sorts — it  is  found  that  the  number  of  those  which  really 
possess  a  high  order  of  attractiveness  is  not  very  large. 
As  the  catalogues  of  dealers  usually  treat  elaborately  on 
the  matter  of  varieties,  merits,  and  adaptability,  in  the 
present  book,  I  only  take  space  to  give  some  select  lists 
to  guide  planters,  referring  the  reader  to  the  catalogues 
for  additional  matter. 

Some  kinds  embraced  in  the  lists  below,  are  perennials 
or  biennials,  but  as  they  flower  the  first  season  from  the 
seed,  they  are  brought  into  this  selection. 

In  the  lists,  h  stands  for  hardy  annual,  or  sorts  tha,t 
may  be  treated  as  such ;  h,  h,  stands  for  half  hardy 
annuals  ;  t,  for  tender  annuals.  Directions  for  sowing  are 
given  in  Part  V. 

A   SELECTION   OF  THE   CHOICER   KINDS  OF   BEDDING   AN- 
NUALS. 

Aster,  h,  h.  Petunia,  h,  h. 

Balsam,  h,  h.  Phlox  Drummondi,  h. 

Candytuft,  h,  Portulaca,  t. 

Cockscomb,  t.  Snap  Dragon,  h. 

Larkspur,  h.  Stocks,  h,  h. 

Marigold,  h.  Sweet  Alyssum,  h. 

Mignonette,  h.  .  Verbena,  h,  h. 
Dwarf  Nasturtium,  h,  h.       Zinnia,  h. 

Pansy,  h.  Sweet  Pea,  h. 


ANNUAL  PLANTS. 


157 


A    SELECTION     OF     BEDDING    ANNUALS    OF    SECONDAEY 
MEEIT. 


Abronia,  h. 
Calliopsis,  h. 
Callirrhoe,  h. 
Campanula,  h. 
Batchelor's  Button,  h. 
Collinsia,  h. 

Dwarf  Morning  Glory,  h. 
Oentranthus,  h. 
Clarkia,  7i. 
Ageratum,  Ji. 
Eschscholtzia,  h. 
Erysimum,  h. 
Godetia,  h. 

Swan  River 


Sunflower,  Ji. 
Lychnis,  Ji,  li. 
Lupine,  h. 
Flora's  Paint  Brush, 
Gaillardia,  h. 
Browallia,  h,  h. 
Four  O'Clocks,  t. 
Nigella,  h. 
Salpiglossis,  h,  h. 
Salvia,  t. 

Mourning  Bride,  Ji. 
Sensitive  Plant,  t. 
Sweet  Rocket,  h. 
Daisy,  h,  h. 


A  SELECTION  OF  ANNUALS  OF  CLIMBING  AND  RUNNING 
HABIT. 


Morning  Glory,  h. 
Cobaea  scandens,  t. 
Hyacinth  Bean,  t. 
Gourds,  t. 
Cypress  Vine,  t. 


Maurandia,  t. 
Nasturtium,  h,  h. 
Canary  Bird  Flower,  h,  h. 
Thunbergia,  t. 
Scarlet  Runner,  t. 


A  SELECTION  OF  ANNUALS  WITH   SHOWY  FOLIAGE   SUIT- 
ABLE FOB  TKOPICAL  EFFECTS. 


Amaranthus,  t. 
Canna,  Ti,  h. 
Chamaepeuce,  /*,  Ti. 
Centaurea,  h,  h. 
Glaucium,  h,  h.    ' 


Perilla,  h,  Ji. 
Castor  Oil  Bean,  t. 
Golden  Feather,  h. 
Tobacco,  t. 
Striped  Maize,  t. 


158  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

A   SELECTION  OF  ANNUALS    SUITABLE    FOR    NATURALI- 
ZATION  IN   THE   WILD    GARDEN. 

Clarkia.  Leptosiphon. 

Collomia.  Portulaca. 

Erisymum.  Gilia, 

Eucharidium.  Poppy. 

Candytuft.  Platystemon. 

Gypsophila,  Silene. 

Godetia.  Saponaria. 

A   SELECTION  OF    ANNUAL  BULBS,    TUBERS,    AND  ROOTS. 

Caladium.  Madeira  Vine. 

Canna.  Oxalis. 

Dahlia.  Tuberose. 

Erythrina.  Tigridia. 

Gladiolus.  Eichardia. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

TENDER  PERENNIAL  PLANTS. 

By  the  help  of  artificial  heat  in  green-houses,  the  list 
of  natural  materials  for  ornamental  gardening  is  much 
enlarged.  "We  go  towards  the  equator  and  collect  at- 
tractive species,  and  by  preserving  them  from  the  cold 
in  winter,  can  turn  them  out  in  summer,  and  thus  are 
able  to  enjoy  something  of  tropical  vegetation  in  the 
North.  Lack  of  space  forbids  giving  much  attention  to 
this  subject  here,  but  several  lists  are  introduced,  in 
which  are  named  the  leading  kinds  of  plants  used  for 
adorning  pleasure  grounds,  and  where  further  informa- 
tion is  wanted,  the  reader  is  referred  to  books  on  flori- 
culture, and  to  the  catalogues  of  florists. 


TENDER   PERENNIAL  PLANTS. 


159 


A   SELECTION   OF  TENDER  BEDDING   PLANTS. 


Alyssum,  Variegated. 

Alyssum,  Double  flowering. 

Abutilon. 

Century  Plant. 

Ageratum. 

Alternanthera. 

Carnation. 

Cigar  Plant  (Cuphea). 

Coleus. 

Dusty  Miller  (Centayrea). 

Echeveria. 

Geranium,  single,  double, 

and  variegated-leaved. 
Dew  Plant  (Mesembryan- 

themum}. 


Gnaphalium  lanatum. 

Heliotrope. 

Hibiscus. 

Lantana. 

Lobelia. 

Leucophyton. 

Othonna  sedifolia. 

Salvia  splendens. 

Verbena. 

Achyranthes. 

Sedums. 

Variegated  Thyme. 

Variegated  Stevia. 

Cannae. 

Caladiums. 


A   SELECTION    OP  PLANTS    WITH    SHOWY   FOLIAGE   SUIT- 
ABLE FOR  EFFECTS   IN   SUB-TROPICAL  GARDENS. 


Acacia  lopbantha. 
Agaves  in  variety. 
Alsophila  australis. 
Aralia  macrophylla. 
Aralia  papyrifera. 
Araucaria  excelsa. 
Caladium. 
Canna. 

Chamsepeuce  diacantha. 
Dracenas  in  variety. 
Echeveria  Metallica. 
Erythina  Crista-galli. 
Ferdinanda  eminens. 
Ficus  elastica. 
Dicksonia  antarctica. 
Melianthus  major. 


Musa  Ensete. 
Papyrus  antiquorum. 
Phormium  tenax. 
Polymnia  grandis. 
Solanum  Warscewiczii. 
Wigandia  macrophylla. 
Ricinus  in  variety. 

PALMS. 

Corypha  australis. 
Carludovica  palmata. 
Caryota  in  variety. 
Cfeamaerops  in  variety. 
Cycas  revolnta. 
Latania  Borbonica. 
Phoenix  in  variety. 
Seaforthia  elegans. 


160  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

CHAPTER  XII. 
MISCELLANEOUS  NATURAL  MATERIAL 

Rocks  and  stones  are  not,  like  soil,  absolutely  neces- 
sary to  garden  making,  yet  the  frequency  with  which 
these  are  met  in  attractive  natural  scenery,  and  their  power 
in  contributing  to  picturesqueness,  entitle  them,  at 
the  least,  to  be  named  among  available  garden  materials. 
In  other  parts  of  this  book,  considerable  attention  is 
paid  to  their  use  in  ornamental  gardening. 

What  is  true  of  the  ornamental  value  of  rocks,  is  main- 
ly and  in  an  enlarged  degree  true  of  water  in  garden 
and  landscape  scenery.  Remove  the  sparkling  river, 
lake,  and  spring,  the  gurgling  rill,  swift  rapids  and  water- 
falls, out  of  nature,  and  she  would  be  devoid  of  some 
of  her  most  attractive  charms.  It  is  well,  there- 
fore, to  consider  the  ornamental  value  of  water,  when 
gardens  are  large  enough  to  admit  of  it  in  some  form. 

Some  kinds  of  beasts,  birds,  and  fishes  add  much  to 
the  charms  of  natural  scenery.  Cattle,  sheep,  and  deer, 
grazing  or  else  reclining  in  the  shade,  contribute  an 
effect  to  scenes  that  without  them  would  be  tame.  The 
sweet-voiced  birds  in  the  trees,  the  graceful  water-fowl 
in  the  lake,  or  the  schools  of  tame  fishes  within  its 
bosom,  are  all  of  great  value  for  adding  to  the  interest 
of  pleasure  grounds.  While  in  the  majority  of  places  it 
may  not  be  practicable  to  do  much  in  the  way  of  intro- 
ducing these,  yet  their  value  should  not  be  lost  sight  of 
where  circumstances  will  allow  of  them. 

In  addition  to  the  natural  garden  making  mate- 
rials which  have  now  been  named  in  this  book,  there 
are  many  other  things,  from  the  gravel  of  walks  to  the 
slate  on  the  roof,  that  might  be  enumerated.  But  as 
these  are  used  mostly  as  mere  constructive  material, 
there  is  little  need  of  so  doing. 


PART    III. 
ARRANGEMENT. 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
GENERAL  PRINCIPLES. 

NATUBE  AS  A  TEACHER. 

As  nature  supplies  the  materials  for  making  gardens, 
so  also  we  may  take  lessons  from  her  in  arranging  them. 
Still  the  primitive,  natural  style  of  arrangement  can  sel- 
dom be  closely  followed  in  the  majority  of  places  that 
are  to  be  improved.  The  horticulturist  takes  the  wild 
plants  from  fields  and  woods,  and  in  improving  them 
always  finds  in  nature  herself  a  co-worker,  and  succeeds 
in  rearing  some  plants  that  are  more  beautiful  than  the 
wild.  So  natural  arrangement  may  be  studied,  and  in 
planning  our  comparatively  restricted  garden  plats,  the 
lessons  thus  gained  may  be  modified  to  meet  the  wants  of 
every  case.  Indeed,  just  so  far  as  our  improved  plants 
and  flowers  are  more  ornamental  than  the  parental  wild 
forms,  so  do  we  possess  more  and  richer  material  for 
creating  garden  effects,  than  is  seen  in  nature.  We  may 
aim  in  ornamental  gardening  to  exhibit  nature  idealized, 
rather  than  nature  real. 

The  fundamental  difference  between  natural  land- 
scapes, and  made  gardens,  is,  that  in  the  former  only 
natural  materials  exist,  while  in  the  latter  much  that  is 
artificial,  houses,  walks,  streets,  etc.,  enters  in,  as  a  rule, 
exerting  a  strong  influence  on  effects.  Such  being  the 
case  we  are  often  led  to  a  different  course  of  action  in 
gardening,  than  if  we  dealt  solely  with  natural  effects. 
(161) 


162  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

MAJOR  AND   MINOR  FEATURES   OF  EMBELLISHMENT. 

It  is  important  to  observe  that  the  nearer  the  mate- 
rials used  for  making  ornamental  gardens  are  to  their 
natural  condition,  the  more  freely  may  they  be  used,  if 
generally  appropriate  without  offending  good  taste  and 
vice  versa.  A  town  lot,  for  example,  might  be  un- 
adorned, except  with  grass  and  not  look  distasteful,  but 
if  we  plant  every  foot  solid  with  the  brightest  art-im- 
proved flowers,  the  effect  would  then  be  shocking.  Use  a 
large  proportion  of  grass — because  it  is  a  material  near 
the  natural  condition,  and  a  few  improved  flowers — be- 
cause they  are  more  or  less  distantly  removed  from  their 
primitive  forms  by  culture,  and  both  are  better  for 
these  proportions.  In  the  same  class  with  grass  are 
trees,  shrubs,  wild  flowers,  rocks,  and  water,  and  these, 
when  not  in  a  general  way  inappropriate,  and  are  ar- 
ranged naturally,  may  be  used  almost  without  limit  as 
major  features  of  adornment  in  landscape  gardening. 
But  arrange  trees  and  shrubs  formally,  or  clip  them  into 
unnatural  shapes,  or  make  "geometrical"  beds  of  im- 
proved flowers,  or  artifical  terraces,  walks  and  drives,  or 
bring  statuary,  fountains,  and  the  like  into  gardens,  and 
it  must,  as  a  rule,  be  on  a  moderate  scale  or  bad  effects 
result.  Such  productions  in  gardening,  like  jewels  in 
dress,  must  be  used  with  discretion,  having  an  appropri- 
ate setting,  or  their  power  to  gratify  is  weakened. 

The  famous  gardens  of  Versailles,  France,  are  only 
great  in  the  respect  that  millions  of  francs  have  been 
spent  in  the  stupid  attempt  to  enlarge  what  should  serve 
as  minor  embellishments  into  leading  features,  crowding 
the  place  with  semi-natural  and  artificially  clipped  trees, 
formal  beds,  fountains,  water-works,  avenues,  terraces, 
etc.,  until  nothing  is  left  to  embellish. 

But  a  garden  may  be  so  essentially  artificial,  owing  to 
smallness  or  the  proximity  of  large  buildings,  etc.,  that 


GENERAL  PRINCIPLES.  163 

an  artificial  style  of  embellishment  may  fitly  prevail  to  a 
considerable  degree,  on  the  principle  that  the  introduced 
garden  features  are  yet  decidedly  subordinate  in  degree, 
to  the  general  features — in  this  case  strongly  artificial. 
Thus  urns  and  boxes  filled  with  the  brightest  flowers 
may  be  used  in  roof,  portico,  or  window  gardening,  to  a 
degree  that  would  be  utterly  out  of  place  in  the  same 
proportions  in  general  gardening.  So  too,  conspicuous 
terraces  and  slopes  are  in  better  taste  in  close  conjunction 
with  buildings — especially  large  ones,  than  in  the 
midst  of  a  garden  not  naturally  very  undulating. 

VAEIETY. 

In  natural  landscapes,  it  is  the  variety  afforded  by 
woodland,  meadow,  mountain  and  water,  the  light  and 
shade  in  trees  and  plants,  the  sunshine  and  shadow,  the 
cheerfulness  in  forms,  foliage  and  flowers,  the  spark- 
ling of  water,  the  sound  of  rills,  and  other  of  nature's 
attractions  that  charm  us.  And  then  in  such  a  distribu- 
tion of  these,  as  to  render  no  two  scenes  alike,  we  find 
great  delight  for  our  love  of  variety.  This  should  lead 
us  to  aim  in  gardening  at  introducing  first,  the  peculiar 
natural  and  other  beautj  each  garden  can  best  support 
in  good  variety.  Secondly,  to  act  on  nature's  sugges- 
tion, and  vary  the  effects  of  different  gardens  as  they 
may  allow.  As  no  two  natural  landscapes  are  exactly 
alike,  so  no  two  gardens  ever  need  be. 

CHARACTER  AND  EXPRESSION. 

Individual  character  and  positive  qualities  are  as  desir- 
able in  gardens  as  in  architecture,  or  as  they  are  in  per- 
sons. In  the  garden,  these  chiefly  depend  on  the  shape 
of  surface,  the  natural  lay  of  the  land,  outlines,  size  and 
character  of  the  buildings,  size  and  arrangement  of  trees, 
walks,  drives,  etc.  Some  grounds  are  like  some  men, 


164  ORNAMENTAL  GABDENING. 

hard  and  abrupt  in  character,  naturally,  and  will  bear 
cultivation  and  a  toning  down  of  some  of  the  projections. 
Others  are  found  that  possess  grace  of  outlines,  and  an 
air  of  polish  that  will  need  little  improving.  Some  lands 
are  tame,  flat,  and  spiritless,  requiring  all  the  gardener's 
arts  to  render  them  pleasing.  Outside  influences,  such 
as  the  sea,  trees,  buildings,  etc.,  in  sight,  also  affect  the 
character  and  appearance  of  the  place.  These  in  a  sense 
are  subject  to  our  control,  as  respects  giving  them  a  set- 
ting, so  to  speak,  by  opening  vistas  towards  them  be- 
tween plantations  as  viewed  from  the  interior,  or  shut- 
ting them  out  of  view  entirely.  This  is  a  matter  requir- 
ing much  attention  when  arranging  a  garden. 

One  piece  of  ground  may  resemble  another  in  general 
character,  and  yet  be  greatly  varied  in  expression  and 
tone.  With  the  use  of  different  styles  and  colors  of 
trees,  shrubs,  and  plants — in  both  foliage  and  flowers, 
we  may  control  and  vary  expression  in  gardening  to  a 
marked  degree,  and  change  the  appearance  of  different 
gardens  otherwise  essentially  alike.  "We  have  power  to 
clothe  these,  as  we  do  our  bodies  with  materials,  styles, 
and  colors  to  suit  every  taste. 

ORDEB    AND   SIMPLICITY. 

These  are  chief  elements  of  all  true  beauty.  It  is  not 
uncommon  to  see  gardens  of  pretence,  that  are  complete 
muddles  of  grass,  trees,  walks,  drives,  arbors,  etc.  In 
nothing  will  order  and  simplicity  count  for  more  than  when 
using  garden-making  materials  with  a  view  to  creating 
beautiful  effects  about  our  homes  and  grounds.  Through 
a  desire  for  display,  one  is  liable  to  overdo,  by  bringing 
too  many  objects  into  the  garden  and  scattering  them 
unduly.  Simplicity  implies  neither  poverty  in  materials 
or  in  design.  A  garden,  or  the  parts  of  a  garden,  may 
be  essentially  simple  in  design,  and  elaborate  in  detail. 


GENERAL  PRINCIPLES.  165 

UNITY  AND  HARMONY. 

A  unity  of  the  objects  of  a  garden  for  contributing  to 
a  complete  whole,  a  harmonizing  of  these,  one  with  an- 
other, and  a  balance  of  the  different  features  and  sections, 
are  important  things  to  secure  in  planning  an  ornamental 
garden.  Where  marked  features  and  bold  contrasts  are 
sought,  there  should  also  be  agreeable,  easy  transition 
from  one  to  another,  without  abrupt  breaks  to  interfere 
with  the  harmony.  In  all  large  works  abounding  in  de- 
tails, we  crave  for  some  such  comprehensive  plan,  where- 
by the  total  may  be  retained  while  surveying  the  part. 

BREADTH  AND  EXTENT. 

Nothing  is  more  desirable  to  secure  in  a  garden  than 
an  air  of  breadth  and  repose,  such  as  nature  so  often  re- 
veals in  her  attractive  landscapes.  This  can  be  done  by 
keeping  some  conspicuous  areas  clear  in  their  center,  ex- 
cepting grass,  and  skirting  them  about  with  masses  of 
woody  and  other  growths.  Natural  landscapes  usually 
suggest  the  idea  of  unlimited  extent  beyond  what  the 
eye  sees  at  any  point.  The  same  thing  is  quite  possible 
to  secure  in  our  gardens,  by  managing  them  to  show 
ample  breadth  in  parts,  and  some  extended  vistas  be- 
tween the  farthest  limits,  and  then  breaking  the  views 
along  the  outlines,  by  so  planting  that  there  may  seem 
to  be  large  areas  unseen  beyond  projecting  groups. 
There  is  such  a  thing  as  so  managing  an  acre,  that  it 
shall  seem  as  large  as  two  or  more  acres. 

Where  outside  scenery,  like  mountains,  water,  neigh- 
boring landscapes,  etc.,  can  be  "appropriated"  to  con- 
tribute to  one's  own  garden,  by  so  arranging  the  interior 
as  to  allow  such  scenery  to  show  at  its  best  from  the  gar- 
den, or  even  seem  to  be  a  part  of  it.  This  can  often 
easily  be  accomplished,  and  by  all  means  let  it  be  done. 


166  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

RICHNESS  AND   FINISH. 

A  certain  air  of  richness  and  finish  in  the  arrangement 
and  keeping  of  the  pleasure  grounds,  goes  far  towards 
raising  them  up  to  the  highest  ideal  of  such  a  place. 
Gracefulness  of  lines,  elegance  of  ornaments,  and  a  gen- 
eral appearance  of  finish  in  the  composition  and  the  effect 
of  groups,  are  among  the  features  that  delight  us. 
A  place  in  even  a  partial  state  of  disorder  and  neglect, 
shocks  our  sense  of  beauty.  Due  regard  to  the  lit- 
tle matters  of  mown  lawns,  clean  walks,  carefully  at- 
tended edges,  absence  of  weeds  and  litter,  cultivated 
borders,  clean  and  well-painted  architectural  features, 
have  such  a  marked  effect  on  the  pleasure  a  place  may 
afford  that  they  can  not  be  lightly  disregarded. 

CONVENIENCE. 

Let  it  be  remembered  that  gardens  are  for  use  as  well 
as  ornament,  hence  they  should  be  accessible  and  con- 
venient, and  this  should  always  be  kept  in  mind  in  lo- 
cating different  objects,  walks,  and  drives.  There  is  no 
more  conflict  between  utility  and  beauty  in  the  garden 
than  elsewhere,  and  we  may  always  aim  to  have  it 
very  convenient,  and  at  the  same  time  very  handsome. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
THE  HOME  BUILDINGS. 

The  house,  because  of  its  crowning  importance,  and 
for  sanitary  reasons  also,  should  stand  somewhat  elevated 
above  the  common  surface.  The  same  is  true  in  a  some- 
what less  degree  of  other  buildings  also.  If  grounds  are 
level,  or  if  the  most  suitable  place  for  the  building  is  not 
as  high  as  would  be  desirable,  the  foundation  walls  may 


THE   SURFACE.  167 

be  carried  to  a  proper  elevation,  then  by  using  the  soil 
excavated  for  cellars  and  foundations,  and  more  if  needed, 
for  filling  in,  the  surface  may  be  brought  as  high  as  de- 
sirable, allowing  properly  for  settling.  As  finished,  the 
surface  should  slope  away  from  every  building,  so  that 
water  from  heavy  rains  and  snows  will  be  led  from,  in- 
stead of  towards  the  walls,  to  cause  dampness. 

The  windows  and  verandas  should  be  so  situated  as  to 
command  good  views  of  the  garden,  and  especially  from 
the  living  rooms.  We  want  the  benefit  of  garden  beauty 
in  the  home,  when  the  state  of  the  weather  forbids  walk- 
ing out,  and  at  all  other  times.  There  is  no  more  de- 
lightful time  for  enjoying  the  garden  than  during, 
or  just  after  a  rain,  or  in  twilight,  when  approaching 
nightfall  softens  the  outlines  and  casts  a  mellowness 
and  quietness  over  the  scene.  The  house  and  garden 
should  both  be  planned  with  reference  to  the  enjoyment 
of  the  view  at  such  times  as  these.  When  buildings  are 
too  low,  as  seen  from  the  street,  or  from  the  garden  it- 
self, they  have  a  depressing  influence  on  the  surround- 
ings, robbing  the  scene  of  much  of  the  fine  effect  which 
belongs  to  every  well  designed  structure,  and  not  allow- 
ing the  purely  ornamental  features  of  it  to  show  for  all 
they  are  worth. 


CHAPTER   XV. 
THE  SURFACE. 

That  which  may  be  called  character,  in  an  ornamental 
garden,  is  largely  owing  to  the  contour  of  its  surface. 
It  is  realized  at  once  that  a  flattish  garden,  which  hap- 
pens to  be  lower  through  its  center,  has  a  tame  look, 
while  a  similar  piece,  but  slightly  crowning  along  the 
middle,  seems  to  possess  character.  Sometimes,  however, 


168  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

a  plot  perfectly  straight  in  its  surface  line  is  pleasing, 
and  seems  to  fit  a  place  better  than  any  other  could,  but, 
as  a  rule,  some  variation  from  the  straight  line  is  prefer- 
able. 

In  nature  we  find  more  delight  in  the  bold  hills  and 
valleys  than  in  level  stretches  of  plain.  This  is  because 
we  love  variety,  and  in  undulations  of  the  surface,  we 
find  a  form  of  this,  independent  of  the  variety  afforded 
by  that  which  grows  upon  it.  This  fact  suggests  the  de- 
sirability of  introducing  undulations,  wherever  the  size 
of  grounds  and  other  circumstances  will  allow. 

For  small  grounds  of  a  third  of  an  acre  and  less,  aside 
from  buildings,  the  even  or  slightly  crowning  center  is, 
as  regards  shape,  the  best.  But  even  in  these,  in  many 


Fig.  13.— AN   UNDULATING  BOBDBB. 

cases  a  decided  departure  may  be  made  which,  without 
destroying  the  identity  of  the  style,  will  afford  scope  for 
bringing  in  not  only  considerable  variety  of  surface  in 
places,  but  also  the  means  for  greatly  increasing  the 
beauty  in  other  ways.  I  refer  to  the  making  of  a  series  of 
undulations  which  are  to  be  treated  as  cultivated  borders, 
for  some  years  at  least,  to  be  planted  with  small  trees, 
flowering  and  evergreen  shrubs  and  plants. 

These  borders  should  come  mostly  along  the  boun- 
daries, and  may  vary  in  width  according  to  the  size  of  the 
place.  Figure  13  illustrates  the  outlines  of  one  of  these. 

The  merits  of  such  borders  in  creating  interest  and 
variety  in  a  place,  however  small,  are  several.  Firstly, 
by  making  them  of  varying  widths  throughout  their 
length,  the  ground  in  them  may  be  made  more  crown- 


THE   SURFACE. 


169 


ing  in  the  wide  parts  than  where  they  are  narrower,  thus 
causing  a  marked  variation  of  the  surface  in  the  center 
lengthwise.  Then  the  wavy  outlines  give  variety  in  the 
shape  of  the  border  on  the  grounds,  where  it  meets  the 
grass.  Further  still,  with  affording  room  for  planting 
numerous  trees,  shrubs  and  plants,  of  different  forms, 
habits  and  seasons  of 
attractiveness,  a  great 
addition  to  the  interest 
and  beauty  of  a  place  is 
possible.  Besides  these, 
if  selections  of  trees, 
shrubs,  etc.,  for  plant- 
ing, the  size  they  attain 
at  maturity  is  kept  in 
view,  by  placing  tall- 
growing  subjects  in  the  highest  parts,  and  dwarf  kinds  in 
the  lower  and  narrower  places,  a  still  further  means  of 
creating  variety  is  gained. 

Something  similar  to  the  boundary  borders  may  also  be 
made  next  to  the  house,  at  junctions  of  walks  and  other 
places,  for  the  sake  of  having  more  of  this  feature,  and 
to  preserve  a  proper  balance  throughout  the  grounds. 


Fig.  14. — A  RAISED  BOEDER  AGAINST 
THE  HOUSE. 


Fig.  15.— UNDULATED  BORDER  PLANTED  WITH  SHRUBBERY  AND  FLOWERS. 

Those  next  to  the  house  may  come  along  the  foundation 
in  front  of  the  piazza,  around  bay  windows,  or  in  cor- 
ners made  by  angles  in  the  shape  of  the  house,  somewhat 
S 


170  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

as  indicated  in  figure  14,  while  the  same  method  of  ar- 
ranging the  plants  indicated  for  the  marginal  borders, 
may  be  employed  here. 

Figure  15  shows  the  appearance  of  these  planted  un- 
dulations, with  the  effect  of  the  variations  in  the  size  of 
growths  alluded  to.  It  will  be  seen  that  with  all  the 
advantages  of  this  style  for  creating  interest,  there  may 
still  be  maintained,  even  in  small  places,  the  open  area 
of  lawn,  essential  for  imparting  an  air  of  breadth  and 
repose. 

Another  gain  by  such  borders  is,  that  with  good  ar- 
rangement, they  hide  the  natural  limits  of  a  place,  thus 
giving  an  idea  of  increased  largeness  of  the  garden 
area.  Instead  of  the  conspicuous  sharp  line  caused 
by  the  fence  meeting  the  ground,  we  may  have  an  ac- 
tually longer,  because  wavy  line,  at  the  front  for  the  eye 


Fig.  16.  Fig.  17.  Fig.  18. 

ADJUSTING  GROUNDS  TO   THE  LEVEL  OF  THE   8TKEET. 

to  rest  upon,  by  this  means  ridding  the  place  of  an  air  of 
narrowness  and  angularity,  and  having  instead,  graceful 
lines  of  increased  length,  decidedly  conducive  to  pleas- 
ing effect. 

No  two  places  should  receive  the  same  treatment,  as 
regards  shape  and  planting  of  undulating  borders.  The 
plans  figure  30  to  35  will  give  some  idea  regarding  differ- 
ent ways  of  arrangement.  It  is  surprising  what  an 
effect  small  rises  and  depressions,  of  even  a  few  inches, 
will  have  in  removing  dullness,  and  imparting  an  air  of 
grace  and  freedom  to  such  borders  or  to  mounds.  In 
some  places  along  the  boundary  there  should  be  breaks 
extending  to  the  fence.  In  selecting  shrubs,  pains  should 
be  taken  to  employ  those  of  strikingly  different  appearance 


THE  SUKFACE. 


171 


in  leaf,  flowers,  and  forms,  for  the  sake  of  contrast,  and 
to  place  those  with  beautiful  foliage  and  habits,  near  the 
house,  and  other  conspicuous  places. 

Sometimes  undulated  borders  may  be  employed  to  ad- 
vantage in  another  way.  A  case  of  a  two-acre  garden  on  a 
corner,  where  there  was  a  continuous  fall  in  the  streets  in 
a  south  and  eastern  direction,  amounting  to  about  fifteen 
feet,  may  be  used  to  illustrate.  It  was  considered  desirable, 
owing  to  the  natural 
lay  of  the  land,  to  keep  ' Y 
the  surface  of  the  gar- 
den nearly  level,  not- 
withstanding the  fall  in 
the  street.  Figures  16, 
17,  18,  representing 
cross  sections  of  the 
boundary  undulations 
at  these  points,  namely, 
where  the  street  was  a 
little  higher  than  the 
general  garden  level, 
(figure  lu).  Where  it 
was  uniform  with  it 
(figure  17),  and  where 
considerably  lower  (fig- 
ure 18),  will  explain 
how  the  case  was  satis- 
factorily managed;  the  ™8- 1«— PLAN  OB  Motnsro  FOR  TREES. 
dotted  lines  in  the  engraving  representing  the  garden 
surface.  From  the  interior  of  the  garden,  hardly  any  idea 
of  the  descent  outside,  or  of  the  streets  themselves,  can 
be  gathered,  which  in  this  case  was  desirable,  owing  to 
the  heavy  traffic  going  on  through  one  of  them. 

Another  effective  style  of  surface  variation  sometimes 
introduced,  consists  of  one  or  more  mounds  somewhat 
centrally  located,  and  away  from  house  and  boundaries 


172  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

to  be  planted  with  trees  and  shrubs.  The  object  may  be 
the  mere  formation  of  a  new  style  of  garden  variety,  to 
hide  a  near  approach  or  some  unsightly  object.  Figure 
19  illustrates  the  idea,  A  representing  the  highest  point, 
in  this  instance  crowned  with  an  arbor,  and  the  other 
letters  below,  show  lower  levels  downward.  Such  mounds 
introduced  into  grounds  where  the  prevailing  character 
of  the  surface  is  even,  are  more  difficult  to  manage  than 
the  boundary  mounds,  or  these  against  buildings,  on 
account  of  their  standing  out  in  bold  relief.  The  emer- 
gence of  the  elevation  into  the  general  level  should  be 
soft  and  gradual,  a  point  respecting  which  too  great  cure 
cannot  be  taken.  Indeed  it  requires  a  great  degree  of 
good  taste  to  manage  these  so  they  may  appear  natural. 

In  gardens  the  surfaces  of  which  are  generally  even, 
there  is  not  that  absolute  necessity  to  have  the  grade 
strictly  even  over  the  whole  lawn,  that  many  seem  to 
think.  Certain  gentle  variations  here  and  there,  and  es- 
pecially if  trees  and  shrubs  are  set  on  the  higher  points,  are 
in  place  in  almost  any  grounds.  But  attention  to  smooth- 
ness and  finish  in  minor  respects  is  as  much  in  order  in 
such  cases,  as  if  the  whole  were  made  uniformly  and 
precisely  straight. 

In  larged  sized  grounds,  from  an  acre  upwards,  with 
rare  exceptions,  a  departure  from  a  surface  of  a  gener- 
ally level  character  is  to  be  preferred.  Of  three  differ- 
ent kinds  of  surface  usually  to  bo  met,  namely  :  the 
level,  the  abruptly  hilly,  and  a  mean  between  these  two, 
the  latter  is  considered  the  best  for  making  a  large  area 
interesting,  and  abounding  in  pleasing  garden  effects. 
The  objection  to  the  plane  as  a  style  of  surface  for  a 
large  garden  is,  that  it  yields  no  variety  to  the  eye,  in- 
dependent of  what  is  brought  upon  it.  If  strong,  bold 
effects,  either  in  the  planting  or  in  undulating  the  sur- 
face are  desired  here,  they  arc  from  the  nature  of  things 
very  expensive  to  make.  As  regards  the  other  extreme, 


THE   SURFACE.  173 

a  Park  may  be  so  entirely  composed  of  large  hills,  that 
the  very  sight  of  the  place,  and  the  thought  of  following 
the  up  and  down  courses  of  the  paths  is  enough  to  tire 
any  but  a  strong  person.  With  a  mean  between  these 
two,  we  have  the  advantage  of  variety  as  afforded  by 
the  hills  and  vales  without  much  inconvenience  of  ascent 
and  descent. 

Where  grounds  of  this  preferred  character  are  to  be 
improved,  it  is  often  easy  to  increase  their  effectiveness  by 
drawing  out  some  existing  features  more  strongly.  A 
prominence  may  be  added  to,  at  the  expense  of  the  val- 
ley bottom  at  the  side,  or  one  mound  removed  to  increase 
the  strength  of  another,  or  a  lake  be  excavated  to  the 
advantage  of  the  surroundings.  Naturally  such  im- 
provements suggest  heavy  expenses  at  the  outset.  But 
let  it  be  considered  that  every  load  of  material  moved  in 
such  operations  counts  for  two,  because  a  depression  of 
one  foot  here,  added  to  an  elevation  elsewhere,  effects  an 
actual  change  in  both  of  two  feet  at  the  expense  of 
moving  one  foot  of  earth. 

In  every  fair  sized  garden,  prominent  elevations  to 
support  shady  arbors,  and  from  which  to  get  a  bird's 
eye  view  of  the  scenery,  and  to  catch  cool  breezes  in  hot 
weather  are  worth  aiming  to  secure.  For  guidance  in 
every  kind  of  mound  construction  the  brief  suggestions 
accompanying  figure  19  are  in  a  general  way  applicable. 

In  earlier  times,  as  many  European  gardens  yet  bear 
evidence,  it  was  thought  that  pleasure  grounds  to  be 
beautiful,  must  present  a  very  artificial  appearance. 
Surfaces  that  were  naturally  quite  level  were  so  managed 
as  to  present  a  series  of  terraces  and  slopes.  Trees  were 
not  only  all  of  them  planted  in  formal  lines,  but  they 
•were  by  hundreds  distorted  into  outrageous  patterns  by 
clipping.  The  world  moves,  and  landscape  gardeners  to- 
day, although  not  disposed  to  set  aside  the  old  formal 
style  in  every  case,  as  a  rule  insist  that  the  nearer  they 


J74  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

can  keep  to  nature's  ways  of  using  nature's  materials, 
the  more  pleasing  will  be  the  result.  What  is  admired 
most  in  nature  is  the  very  freedom  and  informality,  which 
in  by-gone  times  was  avoided.  In  severely  formal  gar- 
dens the  picture  may  strike  us  with  delight  at  first  sight, 
but  being  unchangeable,  we  tire  of  it  in  time,  unless  there 
are  counter-balancing  features  to  offset  the  formality. 

Where  a  garden  is  on  a  hillside,  and  the  natural  con- 
tour is  too  abrupt  for  beauty  or  convenience,  the  ter- 
race and  slope  arrangement,  with  stairways  in  the  walks, 
sometimes  come  in  use  to  advantage.  Wre  recall  an  admi- 
rable illustration  of  the  use  of  this  style  in  the  terraces  and 
slopes  in  the  Queen's  Park  at  Glasgow.  Partly  for  con- 
venience, and  partly  for  effect  in  relieving  the  sameness 
that  would  exist  in  a  not  very  large  park,  by  the  pres- 
ence of  too  many  natural  hills,  there  was  contructed  a 
series  of  these  on  a  large  scale,  which  for  their  general 
fitness,  simplicity  and  beauty,  are  most  charming.  There 
is  a  well-known  and  most  delightful  Italian  garden  at 
Wellesley,  the  estate  of  H.  H.  Hunnewell,  Esq.,  near 
Boston,  Mass.,  constructed  at  the  head  of  a  lake  on  a 
steep  bluff,  which  very  strikingly  shows  that  in  some  places 
a  contribution  of  formal  terraces,  slopes,  clipped  trees, 
balustrades,  stairways,  and  vases  may  be  introduced  as  a 
minor  feature  of  an  extensive  private  park,  with  very 
pleasing  effect.  Small  plats  in  towns,  or  even  small 
public  squares,  hemmed  in  with  buildings,  may,  with 
fountains  or  other  artificial  objects,  walks,  etc.,  be  so 
essentially  artificial  in  appearance,  and  strongly  in- 
fluenced by  architectural  lines,  as  to  very  properly  ad- 
mit of  considerable  formality  in  the  arrangement. 

The  guiding  principle  in  every  instance  where  the 
making  of  terraces  and  slopes  is  invited,  should  be  to  in- 
troduce them  only  as  objects  of  embellishment,  and  where 
the  surroundings  show  some  other  features  of  great  bold- 
ness and  strength.  They  should  seem  to  be  secondary 


THE   SURFACE.  175 

in  importance  and  effect  to  something  else,  be  that  some- 
thing buildings,  towers,  monuments,  prominent  hills,  or 
large  adjacent  areas  devoted  to  a  natural  style  of  effects. 
Terrace  and  slope  combinations  should,  Avith  rare  ex- 
ceptions, be  characterized  by  a  great  degree  of  simplicity 
in  their  arrangement.  The  complicated  pretty  produc- 
tions in  this  line,  sometimes  met  with  in  old  school  gar- 
dens in  Europe,  are  intolerable  to  every  one  of  correct 


Fig.  20.— TEKRACE  WOKK  ADORNED  WITH   TREES,  SHRUBS,  AND   FLOWERS. 

taste.  The  use  of  trees  and  shrubs  in  different  places 
for  balancing  the  parts  and  relieving  the  geometrical 
lines,  is  very  desirable,  provided  they  are  dispersed  with 
taste.  Figure  20  shows  a  simple  terrace  slope,  embel- 
lished with  roses  or  other  shrubs  with  good  effect. 
There  is  also  shown  a  row  of  trees  and  a  line  of  gerani- 
ums, or  other  showy  plants,  on  the  level  above  in  front 
of  the  balustrade.  Such  a  method  of  embellishment 
goes  far  towards  ridding  these  constructions,  of  what  is 


176  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

to  many  persons  one  of  the  greatest  objections,  namely, 
the  prevailing  blankness  of  the  slopes  as  frequently  seen. 
What  is  called  a  Sunken  Garden  consists  of  depressed 
terraces  of  one  or  more  levels — square,  round  or  other 
shape — constructed  lower  than  the  general  surface,  and 
meeting  with  it  by  some  well-formed,  easy  slopes.  On 
these  lower  levels  flowers,  shrubs,  vases,  fountains  and 
so  forth  are  displayed,  all  designed  to  be  viewed  from 
above.  Sometimes  there  are  walks  and  stairs  leading 
down  to  the  lower  levels.  The  making  of  such  gardens  is 
recommended  only  with  caution,  as  rarely  can  they  be 
made  to  serve  as  good  a  purpose,  even  for  the  sake  of  in- 
creased variety,  as  the  same  area  and  conditions  treated 
more  naturally. 

I  have  sometimes  employed  a  style  of  small  terraces 
retained  by  a  stone  coping  with  good  effect,  as  shown  in 
figure  21.  Where  some  bold 
object  in  a  town  or  other 
garden  seems  essential,  to 
counteract  the  influence  of 
large  buildings,  this  terrace 
placed  in  the  center  of  a 
walk  or  elsewhere  serves  a 

Fig.  21.— CIRCULAR    TERRACE    IN  A 

WALK  RETAINED  BY  A  STONE  good  purpose.  The  center 
may  support  a  vase,  or  piece 

of  statuary  placed  on  a  base  or  a  fountain.  Properly  the 
ground  should  be  rounded  up  a  little  towards  the  object 
in  the  center.  A  bed  of  brilliant  flowers  extending  around 
the  terrace  next  to  the  coping,  save  a  narrow  strip  of 
grass  between,  produces  a  fine  effect.  The  remainder 
of  the  surface  should  be  in  grass. 

There  are  ways  of  treating  boundary  lines  and  fences 
often  met  with  in  Europe,  which  might  at  times  be  adopt- 
ed in  improving  our  own  grounds.  I  refer  to  the  plan  of 
contriving  to  keep  the  boundary  and  other  fences  out  of 
sight,  as  shown  in  figures  22  and  23.  By  such  means, 


WALKS   AND   DRIVES.  177 

large  outside  areas  may  often  be  appropriated  in  effect, 
and  a  garden  of  a  few  acres  seems  to  embrace  large  out- 
side areas  because  the  boundaries  are  not  visible.  Carry- 
ing with  them  as  they  do  the  idea  of  being  works  of  art, 
terraces,  and  slopes  of  all  kinds  should  be  made  with  ex- 
actness in  their  levels,  and  with  as  straight  lines  and 


Fig    23.— BOUNDARY  WALL  SET  OUT  Fig.  23. — A    SUNKEN  CBOSS- 

OF  SIGHT  FROM   THE  GARDEN.  FENCE. 

as  true  curves  as  possible,  and  for  the  same  reason  it  is 
necessary  to  bestow  a  greater  degree  of  care  upon  their 
keeping  than  is  required  by  most  other  styles  of  garden 
Avork.  Scarcely  anything  in  the  way  of  a  garden  is 
more  intolerable  than  the  pretentious,  formal  work,  in 
a  state  of  slovenly  neglect. 


CHAPTER   XVI. 
WALKS  AND   DRIVES. 

When  well  located,  walks  and  drives  convey  the  idea  of 
habitableness,  imparting  an  air  of  welcome  and  freedom 
to  a  home  and  grounds,  and  in  no  slight  degree  seem  to 
promote  the  beauty  of  a  place. 

The  most  important  walks  and  drives  are  those  at  the 
entrance.  If  these  can  be  laid  out,  to  approach  the 
home  or  buildings  from  such  a  direction,  that  more  than 
one  side  of  the  building  will  strike  the  eye  at  once,  it 
should  always  be  done.  Architects  ask  that  a  house  be 


178 


OKNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


thus  seen  to  show  it  at  its  best.  We  should  aim  to  make 
the  first  view  of  a  residence  and  grounds  as  favorable  as 
possible. 

In  places  of  the  smallest  size,  where  the  door  is  near 
the  street,  a  straight  walk  is  about  the  only  one  that  can 
be  devised,  and  so  of  a  drive  to  the  stable.  When  the 
door  of  the  house  is  twenty  or  more  feet  from  the 
entrance  gate,  curves  may  usually  be  introduced  by 
having  the  gate  not  directly  in  front  of  the  door,  but  a 
little  to  one  side.  Such  an  arrangement  tends  to  keep 


.  24.  Fig.  25. 

SHOWING  ADVANTAGE  OF    CURVED  WALKS  AND  DRIVES  OVER   STRAIGHT. 

the  area  in  front  of  the  house  larger,  when  the  walk  is 
set  to  one  side ;  as  a  result,  the  house  shows  to  better 
advantage,  than  if  the  main  front  plat  were  kept  smaller 
by  a  straight  walk  encroaching  upon  it.  The  house  in 
figure  24,  it  is  at  once  seen  to  have  a  finer  setting  with  a 
curved  approach,  than  if  the  part  in  front  of  it  were  to 
be  narrowed  by  a  straight  walk,  as  shown  by  the  dotted 
lines. 

This  principle  is  also  illustrated  in  figure  25,  both  in 
walks  and  carriage-drives.  Although  here,  by  making 
curved  walks,  there  is  one  more  leading  to  the  house  than 
if  they  were  straight ;  still  with  the  foreground  thus 
arranged,  the  buildings  are  seen  to  much  better  advan- 
tage over  the  stretch  of  lawn,  embellished  with  trees, 
shrubs,  and  flowers  (omitted  in  the  engraving),  than  if 
the  scene  were  cut  up  by  the  hard  lines  of  a  straight  walk. 


WALKS  AND   DRIVES. 


179 


And  the  general  improvement  in  the  appearance  of  the 
grounds  is  also  much  better,  for  instead  of  increasing 
the  angular  outlines — strong  enough  already  in  the  build- 
ings and  boundaries — by  making  the  waits  straight,  we 
curve  them  gracefully,  and  thus  induce  variety  in  the 
lines.  The  curves  are  brought  in  such  a  way,  that  we 
secure  that  most  desirable  of  all  garden  qualities,  breadtli 
just  where  it  is  most  needed,  namely:  in  the  foreground 
of  the  main  building.  This  simple  point  is  one  that  ac- 
counts for  much  of  that  indescribable  difference  in  places, 
which  makes  some  appear  much  finer  than  others,  with 
the  use  of  about  the  same  advantages  and  materials  in  both. 
But  if  on  the  one  hand  there  may  be  a  liability  to  not 
employ  curves  often  enough  for  good  effect,  on  the  other 


Fig.  26.  Fig.  27. 

POORLY  ARRANGED  CURVED  WALKS,  SKETCHED  FROM  ACTUAL  EXAMPLES. 

there  is  danger,  Avhen  curves  are  used,  of  making  them 
ungraceful  or  indirect,  in  a  way  to  serve  neither  beauty 
or  convenience.  Figures  26  and  27  illustrate  two  ex- 
amples of  this  kind.  Tortuous  walks  like  these  prove 
worse  than  useless  in  one  sense,  for  there  will  be  a  con- 
stant inclination,  if  not  very  frequent  practice,  to  cut 
across  the  lot,  as  indicated  by  the  dotted  lines,  instead 
of  using  the  walks.  People  when  they  are  in  hurry,  and 
especially  children,  have  little  respect  for  long,  winding, 
inconvenient  curves,  introduced  for  beauty,  but  in  such 
cases  sadly  lacking  it,  because  they  lack  utility. 


180  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

One  of  the  best  possible  remedies  for  the  common 
trouble  of  having  grass  verges  walked  upon  in  private 
and  public  grounds,  is  to  place  the  walks  just  where  they 
are  needed,  and  whether  curved  or  otherwise,  let  them 
run  as  directly  from  point  to  point  as  possible,  and  then 
to  make  them  of  a  material  comfortable  to  the  foot.  It 
may  be  stated,  however,  that  should  this  bad  practice  be 
persisted  in,  a  protector  made  like  a  croquet  arch,  only 
much  heavier  and  larger,  and  set  either  lengthwise,  or  at 
short  distances  apart  crosswise,  along  the  edge,  will  effect- 
ually break  it  up. 

In  figures  24  and  25  it  may  be  observed  that  the  curves 
are  so  direct,  graceful,  and  easy,  that  there  would  be  no 
inducement  to  leave  them,  for  gaining  a  more  direct  route 
from  point  to  point.  The  drive  in  figure  25  is  curved 
considerably  towards  the  house  it  is  true,  but  it  is  used 
chiefly  for  carriages,  and  under  the  circumstances  this  is 
allowable. 

A  walk  or  drive  of  serpentine  form,  like  the  one  on  the 
right-hand  side  of  figure  27,  is  very  faulty.  Any  series 
of  bends  closely  together  like  these,  showing  two  bays  or 
projections  of  about  the  same  size,  from  any  one  point 
are  poor  in  effect.  Every  curve  should  be  continuous, 
and  easy  to  be  kept  by  pedestrian  or  horse.  If  the  bends 
are  too  short,  the  projections  of  drives  are  sure  to  be 
shaved  by  wheels,  while  weeds  will  spring  up  in  their 
inner  portions. 

While,  as  a  rule,  walks  should  never  be  put  down  ex- 
cept where  there  is  a  real  or  apparent  need  of  them,  still 
it  is  sometimes  the  case  that  they  may  be  made  to  serve 
largely  for  adornment.  Figure  28  shows  a  case  of  this 
kind  of  a  small  garden  of  square  outlines,  lying  adjacent 
to  a  large  public  building.  The  plat  is  skirted  in  its 
border  by  a  belt  of  trees  and  shrubs,  and  a  conspicuous 
circular  bed  of  evergreens  occupies  a  central  position. 
This  simple  arrangement  of  neat,  well-kept  walks,  cut 


AVALKS   AND    DRIVES. 


181 


into  the  level  sward,  harmonizes  with  the  strong  angular 
features  that  exist  in  the  surroundings — which  are,  it 
may  be  said,  too  strong1  to  be  overcome  in  effect,  by  ordi- 
nary natural  arrangements.  In  this  way  is  found  a 
pleasing  kind  of  ornamentation  for  the  place,  which  ifc 
would  be  hard  to  equal  by  any  other  means.  It  should 
be  observed  in  this  case,  that  the  walks  are  not  so  prom- 
inent or  so  close  together,  but  that  they  convey  the 
idea  of  subordination  to  buildings,  trees,  grass,  and 


Fig.  28. — WALKS  USED  FOR  EMBELLISHMENT. 


streets,  hence  their  fitness  is  easily  accounted  for.  Were 
the  square  plats  between  walks  filled  with  flowers  or 
numerous  vases,  etc.,  instead  of,  as  at  present,  mostly 
plain  grass,  the  present  fine  effect  would  be  largely  lacking. 

Where  the  lawn  throughout  the  grounds  is  kept  closely 
mowed,  so  that  walking  is  always  comfortable,  except  in 
wet  weather  or  during  a  heavy  dew,  there  is  little  call  for 
walks  besides  those  leading  to  and  between  chief  points 
of  interest.  Shady  grass  walks  kept  well  mown,  with 
masses  of  shrubs  and  flowers  at  the  sides,  are  really  as 
pleasurable  parts  of  a  garden  as  can  well  be  provided. 

Sometimes  one  or  more  straight  walks,  or  avenues,  are 
in  place  in  gardens  or  parks,  as  for  instance  along  the 


182  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

top  of  an  extended,  formal  slope.  There  are  places 
where  such  a  walk  or  drive,  if  following  a  nice  grade  and 
showing  its  entire  length  from  the  end,  presents  a  mag- 
nificent appearance,  especially  if  there  is  enough  grass  at 
the  sides  to  give  it  an  ample  setting ;  and  trees  and 
flowers  are  used  in  abundance  some  distance  back  from 
the  edge,  to  be  seen  over  the  intervening  grass.  Walks 
or  avenues  of  this  character  can  hardly  be  considered 
complete,  without  some  striking  objective  point  near  or 
distant,  either  real  or  apparent  at  each  end,  such  as  a 
building,  monument,  fountain,  or  it  may  be  only  a  piece 
of  statuary,  or  a  large  vase.  Small  objects,  like  the  last 


Fig.  29.— OBJECTIVE  POINTS  IN  WALKS. 

named,  may  be  given  a  suitable  setting  near  the  ends  of 
such  walks,  or  at  junctions  with  cross-walks,  as  shown  in 
figure  29,  by  placing  the  object  on  a  low,  circular  terrace 
of  green  sward,  retained  either  by  a  stone  coping,  or  by 
turf  sloping  sharply  down  to  the  common  level.  For 
smaller  and  short,  straight  walks,  a  tree  of  striking  foli- 
age or  form,  or  an  evergreen  clipped  into  pleasing  shape, 
a  flower-bed,  arbor,  vase,  or  seat,  may  serve  as  a  terminal 
object.  Such  objects  may  also,  if  the  walk  or  avenue  be 
long,  be  brought  in  at  points,  not  too  close  together, 
along  the  sides,  to  break  monotony. 


USE  OF   GRASS,   TREES,    SHRUBS,    ETC.  183 

As  regards  width,  long,  straight  walks  or  drives  should 
be  wider  than  curved  ones,  because  their  beauty  depends 
in  a  measure  upon  boldness,  and  this  is  secured  by 
breadth.  Ordinary  walks  are  made  anywhere  from  three 
feet  wide  (and  sometimes  as  narrow  as  two  feet),  up- 
wards, according  to  their  place  and  the  size  of  the  garden. 
Eear  private  walks  may  be  the  narrowest.  General  garden 
walks,  if  curved,  may  be  four  to  six  feet  wide,  and  straight 
approach  walks,  four  to  eight  feet,  while  terrace  or  prin- 
cipal walks  in  large  pleasure  grounds  and  parks,  may  be 
eight  to  fifteen  feet  or  more  in  width.  Five  feet  is  con- 
sidered a  good  width  for  ordinary  purposes.  Drives  may 
range  all  the  way  from  eight  to  fifty  feet  or  more  in 
width,  according  to  purpose  and  size  of  grounds.  Ten 
to  fourteen  feet  for  ordinary  drives  in  private  grounds, 
with  branches  or  back  drives  at  eight  to  ten  feet  is 
about  right.  In  large  grounds,  cemeteries,  and  parks, 
twenty  to  thirty-five  feet,  are  the  usual  widths  of  drives. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

THE    USE    AND    COMBINATIONS    OF    GRASS,    TREES, 
SHRUBS,  ETC. 

In  natural  landscapes  the  common  grasses  serve  the 
important  purpose  of  supporting  or  affording  a  setting 
for  other  growths.  They  thus  fill  a  place  for  which  no 
other  plants  could  serve  so  well.  It  would  be  better  for 
the  soil  to  be  clothed  with  a  carpet  of  green  sward  and 
treeless,  than  to  be  covered  with  trees  and  plants,  to  the 
exclusion  of  grass.  Still,  the  custom  that  prevails  in 
some  places,  of  having  only  grass  to  ornament  the 
grounds,  is  by  no  means  to  be  commended,  because  of  the 
better  effect  and  greater  interest  attainable,  through  using 
some  of  the  endless  array  of  beautiful  natural  materials 


184  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

at  our  service,  together  with  the  grasses.  Grass  to  the 
ground,  is  as  carpets  or  tiles  to  a  floor,  indispensable  in 
themselves,  yet  no  one  considers  a  room  furnished  with- 
out the  addition  of  furniture  and  decorated  walls.  Neither 
should  we  be  content  with  simply  a  carpet  on  our  grounds, 
when  handsome  leafy  furniture  is  so  easily  procured. 

The  lawn,  to  be  most  satisfactory,  should  present  a 
green,  velvety  appearance  throughout  the  season,  and 
this  is  gained  through  a  suitable  condition  of  the  soil, 
properly  stocking  it  with  grass,  and  attention  to  mowing, 
watering,  etc.  Instructions  respecting  these  matters  are 
given  in  other  parts  of  this  book.  A  common  error  in 
garden  arrangement  is  found,  where  trees  are  planted 
close  and  never  thinned,  causing  in  time  by  their  shade 
death  to  the  grass  underneath.  The  only  remedy  in  such 
a  case  is  the  removal  of  a  sufficient  number  of  trees,  to 
admit  enough  air  to  supply  the  wants  of  the  grass.  Good 
lawns  will  bear  considerable  shade,  and  enough  trees  can 
remain  to  afford  ample  shelter  for  comfort,  and  have  fine 


For  ornamental  purposes  in  roof,  and  all  kinds  of  archi- 
tectural gardening,  the  lawn  grasses  are  undervalued.  A 
good  illustration  of  their  utility  for  such  purposes,  is 
seen  in  a  public  roof-garden  over  the  market  in  Edin- 
burgh, Scotland,  where  a  large  bed  of  grass,  or  in  other 
words  a  patch  of  lawn,  is  employed,  along  with  elaborate 
flower-beds,  all  surrounded  by  low  stone  copings.  While 
the  flowers  are  more  showy,  the  presence  of  some  cleanly 
mown  grass  in  such  a  place  tends  to  form  a  more  perfect 
whole,  than  would  otherwise  be  possible. 

It  is  upon  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowering  plants,  that  we 
depend  for  the  chief  attractions  of  our  pleasure  grounds. 
No  garden  can  be  considered  properly  furnished  without 
some  of  these.  Imagine  our  earth  robbed  of  her  arboreal 
beauty,  and  its  appearance  would  be  little  better  than 
that  of  a  desert. 


USE   OF   GRASS,    TREES,    SHRUBS,    ETC.  185 

Starting  out  to  use  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowering  plants 
to  embellish  our  grounds,  it  is  a  matter  of  first  impor- 
tance to  gain  an  adequate  idea  of  the  kinds  and  nature 
of  the  materials.  No  one  can  enter  upon  a  full  exami- 
nation of  this  subject,  without  being  impressed  with  the 
large  number  of,  and  the  great  variety  in  natural  and 
improved  growths,  suitable  for  such  purposes.  In  Part 
II  may  be  found  lists  and  descriptions  of  most  kinds  of 
these  that  are  adapted  to  the  American  climate. 

To  compose  fine  garden  effects,  we  must  take  into  ac- 
count the  prevailing  and  strongly  marked  characteristics 
possessed  by  the  different  materials  at  hand.  I  refer 
more  especially  to  the  differences  found  in  the  colors, 
sizes,  and  forms  of  foliage  and  flowers,  and  the  great 
variety  in  the  habit  of  growth  of  different  trees  and 
shrubs. 

As  alluded  to  in  Chapter  XIII,  we  have  advantages  in 
making  beautiful  garden  scenes,  iinpossessed  by  nature,  . 
in  her  most  charming  compositions,  owing  to  the  greatly 
increased  number  and  beauty  of  kinds  obtained  through 
culture.  We  find  nothing  similar  to  and  as  strikingly 
attractive  in  nature  as  an  improved  Purple-leaved 
Beech,  a  Cut-leaved  Oak,  a  Variegated  Cornelian  Cherry, 
or  any  of  hundreds  of  other  improved  trees  and  shrubs. 
Jfot  only  is  nature's  own  ample  storehouse  at  our  com- 
mand, but  there  are  besides  a  multitude  of  variations 
from  the  best  she  possesses,  that  have  been  obtained 
through  culture. 

As  between  the  two  forms  of  woody  growth,  trees  and 
shrubs,  too  little  regard  is  yet  paid  by  planters  to  the 
great  value  of  the  latter  class.  This  is  especially  the 
case  as  regards  their  eminent  fitness  for  embellishing 
small  grounds.  In  beauty  and  diversity  of  form  and  foli- 
age, they  equal  the  larger  trees.  Most  of  them,  in  addition 
to  other  merits,  produce  an  abundance  of  flowers  of  great 
beauty  and  sweetness,  and  in  the  different  species,  yield 


186  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

a  succession  throughout  the  whole  season,  while  the  ever- 
green kinds  are  attractive  both  summer  and  winter.  As 
a  rule,  all  the  shrubs  grow  easily,  and  after  transplanting 
develop  a  full  measure  of  beauty  in  half  the  time  re- 
quired by  trees.  With  all  these  qualities,  their  adapt- 
ability by  nature  to  the  limited  areas  of  the  majority  of 
American  home  gardens,  may  be  added  as  a  leading  rec- 
ommendation of  this  class. 

In  employing  trees  and  shrubs  for  ornament,  such  a 
selection  and  arrangement  should  be  aimed  at,  as  will, 
for  the  number  used,  ensure  the  greatest  possible  degree 
of  beauty  and  interest  attainable. 

As  we  come  to  the  matter  of  arranging  these,  we  may 
receive  useful  lessons  from  nature.  In  a  study  of  natural 
landscapes,  it  may  be  observed  that  trees,  shrubs,  and 
plants  bear  relation  to  each  other  here,  about  as  follows  : 
First,  in  the  form  of  groups  and  thickets;  second,  in 
open  or  somewhat  scattered  arrangements ;  third,  as 
single,  isolated  specimens ;  and  then  fourth,  as  being 
wholly  absent  in  places.  If  these  points  are  kept  in 
mind  when  arranging  our  pleasure  grounds,  we  need  not 
diverge  far  from  a  right  course  in  the  main  features  of  the 
work.  Indeed,  it  is  the  attempt,  either  unconscious  or 
otherwise,  to  make  a  garden  by  limitation  to  some  one 
or  other  uses  or  non-uses  of  material  as  specified,  that 
causes  so  much  unsatisfactory  work  in  this  line. 

Let  it  be  noted  at  the  outset,  that  the  partly  open  fea- 
ture of  a  landscape  is  most  essential,  .if  we  would  have 
beautiful  gardens.  Without  this,  there  can  never  be 
anything  but  a  confused  effect,  and  without  it  the  beauty 
and  dignity  of  the  rich  woody  and  other  plants  used  is 
also  largely  lost.  The  open  area  affords  a  field  for  view- 
ing the  garden-beauty,  a  space  for  admitting  cool  breezes 
and  sunshine;  a  play-ground  for  shadows,  and  then,  most 
important  of  all,  that  degree  of  general  repose  and 
breadth,  without  which  no  garden  can  be  satisfactory. 


USE  OF  GRASS,   TREES,    SHRUBS,    ETC. 


187 


Next  to  the  open  area  in  gardens,  the  group  easily 
holds  a  first  place,  as  an  effective  means  of  employing 
embellishing  plant  material,  and  has  been  called  the  key- 
note of  modern  natural  gardening.  Whether  as  found  in 
nature,  or  as  it  may  be  formed,  the  chief  merits  of  the 
group  consists  in  its  boldness;  the  power  gained  for  aug- 
menting individual  beauty  of  kinds,  by  clustering  to- 


Fiff.  30. — NATURAL  GROUPING  OF  DECIDUOUS  AND  EVERGREEN  TREES 
AND   SHRUBS. 

gether  of  numbers  of  subjects  alike  or  nearly  so,  and  the 
picturesqueness  which  may  be  created  by  contrasting 
groups  of  one  class,  with  similar  groups  or  marked  in- 
dividuals of  other  classes,  in  what  may  be  called  com- 
pound groups.  To  analyze  the  beauty  of  natural  masses, 
it  may  be  seen  that  this  comes  largely  from  the  peculiar 
way  in  which  different  kinds  are  combined.  It  may  be 
observed  that  in  such  groups  individual  kinds  generally 
gravitate  towards  one  or  more  centers,  with  usually  a 


188  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

scattering  and  intermingling  of  these  between  such 
group-centers,  something  as  is  shown  in  figure  30,  which 
illustrates  a  natural  arrangement. 

From  this  largely  results  the  impressive  beauty  so 
commonly  found  in  nature,  arising  from  strong  individual 
effects  and  marked  contrasts,  as  different  kinds  blend 
with  each  other. 

This  principle  of  minor  groups  within  large  groups, 
should  often  be  adopted  in  garden  arrangements.  Under 
most  circumstances  a  dozen  or  a  hundred  trees,  shrubs, 
or  plants,  if  arranged  on  some  such  basis,  will  be  pro- 
ductive of  immeasurably  better  effects  than  the  same 
scattered  about  or  else  mixed  promiscuously. 

The  right  idea  in  the  garden  is,  to  bring  together  such 
kinds  as  possess  contrasting  qualities,  arranging  these 
group  against  group,  with  a  scattering  of  individuals 
here  and  there,  but  all  done  for  making  the  distinguish- 
ing and  often  strongly  marked  characteristic  of  one  kind, 
relieve  and  offset  those  of  others.  As  shown  in  the 
natural  group  of  figure  30,  dark  Evergreens  may  offset 
the  Beeches  of  lighter  foliage,  while  the  colored  bark 
has  its  effect  of  contrast,  or  projecting  masses  of  the 
former  stand  against  the  Maples  with  finely  contrasting 
shrubs  to  the  front. 

Purple  Beeches  might  be  brought  in  conjunction  with 
the  light-colored  Silver  Maples,  with  dark-green  English 
Elms  near  by  for  heavy  effect.  Some  Weeping  Willows 
along  the  margin  of  water,  may  be  backed  by  a  few 
spiry  Lombardy  Poplars  ;  pyramidal  Spruces,  clustered 
with  trees  having  low,  round  heads,  and  so  on. 

In  shrubs,  the  small-leaved  Privet,  or  cut-leaved  Elder, 
could  go  against  the  large-leaved  Viburnums  or  Weigelas, 
or  we  might  use  the  light-green  Thunberg's  Spiraea,  next 
to  the  dark-leaved  Japan  Quince,  with  the  Virginia 
Fringe,  with  its  large  foliage  at  the  back.  The  pure 
white  flowers  of  Thunberg's  Spiraea  also  contrast  well 


USE  OF  GRASS,  TREES,  SHRUBS,  ETC.       189 

with  the  brilliant  scarlet  of  the  quince  flowers,  both 
coming  in  together.  Beautiful  effects  spring  from  com- 
bining differently  tinted  species  and  varieties  of  the  same 
genus,  for  instance:  the  light  and  dark  Spruces,  Pines, 
and  others,  may  be  contrasted  with  one  another,  and  so 
on  with  other  different  kinds  indefinitely. 

In  the  matter  of  general  style  and  location  of  groups, 
it  is  obvious,  as  we  consider  the  importance  of  retaining 
certain  open  stretches  of  lawn,  that  as  a  rule  the  masses 
must,  in  all  small  places,  be  set  along  the  margins  of  the 
grass  plat,  keeping  the  center  open.  . 

But  such  arrangements  correspond  in  principle  with 
nature's  most  effective  groupings.  The  most  delightful 


31. — ARRANGEMENT   OF   TREES,    SHRUBS,    AND   FLOWERS,    THE 
LETTERS   INDICATING   THE   KINDS. 

natural  landscapes  show  open  vistas,  skirted  by  margins 
of  woody  growth,  either  near  or  distant,  which  limit  and 
support  the  former.  On  the  laying  out  of  marginal 
borders,  some  attention  has  been  given  in  Chapter  XV, 
as  illustrated  by  figures  13  to  18. 

Figure  31,  illustrating  a  section  of  such  a  border, 
shows  the  method  of  arranging  the  different  materials, 
In  this  figure  it  may  be  noticed  that  the  outside  line  of 
woody  growths  is  less  regular  than  that  of  the  border 


190  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

margins,  and  the  spaces  between  are  filled  with  hardy 
flowering  plants. 

While  the  grouping  of  trees  and  shrubs,  and  herba- 
ceous plants  in  marginal  borders  finds  a  wide  adaptability, 
it  is  of  special  value  in  embellishing  small  gardens,  even 
the  very  smallest. 

There  are  numerous  shrubs,  both  deciduous  and  ever- 
green, that  are  highly  ornamental,  bub  which  seldom 
grow  more  than  a  few  feet  high  (see  figure  1  and  explana- 
tions), that  are  ordinarily  adapted  for  creating  bold  and 
pleasing  effects  in  the  smallest  grounds  by  properly 
grouping  them.  With  the  use  of  these,  striking  effects 
may  be  secured  in  the  planting,  to  give  a  fine  setting  to 
the  architecture  of  the  place,  whatever  the  style  of  this 
may  be.  They  should  be  massed  somewhat  closely,  al- 
ways taking  future  size  into  account  in  marginal  borders, 
and  also  next  to  the  house  as  before  alluded  to.  Then  if 
there  is  room,  one  or  two  shade  trees  of  moderate  size 
may  also  be  set  in  some  part  of  the  open  area.  By  such 
means  it  is  possible  to  secure,  even  in  small  gardens,  about 
every  feature  that  enters  into  the  most  extensive  natural 
landscape,  and  with  proportionally  as  good  an  effect. 

In  pleasure  grounds  of  larger  size,  there  is  increased 
scope  for  introducing  variety  both  as  to  the  style  of  the 
groups  and  their  materials.  Here  we  may  have  a  larger 
selection  of  kinds,  for  the  increased  space  also  allows  the 
use  of  larger  growers.  In  grounds  of  the  largest  size, 
trees  and  shrubs  of  every  kind  and  size  may  be  admitted, 
and  here  the  most  varied  effects,  from  very  delicate  to 
bold,  are  possible. 

In  all  fair-sized  places,  the  boundary  masses  may  jut 
inwards  to  a  considerable  distance  here  and  there,  and 
some  isolated  clumps  be  introduced  for  creating  minor 
vistas.  Views  opening  to  the  longest  possible  distance 
in  some  directions,  and  then  broken  by  projections  and 
masses  in  others,  hiding  some  parts  of  the  grounds,  pro-  . 


USE   OF   GRASS,    TREES,    SHRUBS,    ETC.  191 

duce  some  of  the  most  desirable  effects  that  can  be  at- 
tained in  landscape  gardening.  It  is  a  special  merit  of 
the  grouping  system,  that  it  tends  to  give  an  enlarged 
idea  of  the  size  of  the  place.  Grounds  with  the  boun- 
dary shut  off  by  masses,  and  these  arranged  with  irregular 
outlines,  will  look  larger  than  they  would  if  the  boun- 
dary line  were  plainly  in  sight. 

Figure  32  illustrates    an   irregular   group  upon   the 
lawn.     This  form  and  arrangement  is  adapted  to  trees 


Fig.  32.— GROUPING  OP  LARGE  AND  SMALL  GROWTHS. 

or  shrubs  of  any  size,  but  especially  to  the  formation  of 
a  thicket  with  small  shrubs. 

It  is  usually  the  case  that,  no  matter  how  few  trees, 
shrubs,  or  plants  may  be  employed  in  any  place,  they 
will  be  more  effective  if  brought  together  in  groups. 
Three,  four,  or  six,  for  instance,  will  serve  a  better  pur- 
pose thus  treated,  than  if  set  in  a  row  or  scattered  as  far 
apart  as  possible.  Figure  33  shows  some  different  ways 
of  arranging  a  small  number  of  shrubs  in  groups,  and 
these  will  readily  suggest  the  making  of  groups  of  a 
larger  or  smaller  number.  It  may  be  said  that  Roses, 
Rhododendrons,  Paeonies,  and  many  other  things,  should 
hardly  ever  be  used  in  any  other  way  than  in  masses. 

In  all  work  of  grouping,  a  leading  aim  should  be  to 


192  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

invest  the  compositions  with  an  air  of  grace  and  freedom. 
This  is  a  point  which  the  inexperienced  would  do  well 
to  heed,  for  it  is  easy  to  fail  right  here.  In  nature, 
bushes  and  trees,  herbs  and  shrubs,  blend  together  in  the 
freest  manner,  while  the  edges  of  the  group  commonly 
round  off  with  exquisite  finish;  a  good  example  which 
we  should  strive  to  imitate. 

Where  a  beautiful  garden  fronts  on  a  public  highway, 
it  is  as  commendable  in  the  owner  to  allow  passers  on  the 
street  to  get  glimpses  of  the  interior,  as  it  is  to  have 


Fig.  33.  —DIFFERENT  WATS  OF  ARBANGING  A  SMALL  NUMBER  OF  PLANTS. 

thought  of  the  effect  of  a  fine  house  upon  a  neighbor- 
hood. But  then  a  garden  is  designed  chiefly  for  the 
pleasure  of  the  owner's  family  and  friends,  and  he  likes 
to  enjoy  it  in  seclusion.  It  is  a  luxury  to  sit  at  ease,  or 
swing  in  a  hammock  on  a  summer's  day,  and  drink  in 
the  sights,  sounds,  and  perfumes  peculiar  to  a  garden, 
without  fear  of  interruption,  and  this  seclusion  should 
be  provided  for.  Figure  34  shows  how  masses  may  be  set 
so  as  to  give  the  public  some  benefit  of  a  garden,  and  yet 
render  portions  of  it  secluded. 

By  grouping,  complete  effects  may  be  produced  more 
quickly  than  in  any  other  manner  of  planting.  Whether 
dealing  with  trees  or  shrubs,  we  may  plant  very  thickly 
at  the  start,  by  using  at  first  twice  or  three  times  as 


USE   OF   GRASS,    TREES,    SHKUBS,    ETC.  193 

many  shrubs  of  each  kind  as  will  finally  be  needed,  or 
else  by  locating  the  choicer  and  long-enduring  kinds  at 
distances  that  will  accommodate  their  increase  for  many 
years,  and  then  fill  out  more  or  less  between  these  with 
some  of  the  cheap  kinds  of  rapid  growth,  which  are  at 
the  same  time  very  handsome.  The  extra  shrubs  in  both 
cases  to  be  removed  as  the  others  demand  the  space.  In 
this  way  masses  will  bo  made  to  look  solid  and  complete 
immediately  after  setting. 

The  planting  of  trees  and  shrubs  in  groups  affords  the 
means  of  promoting  rapid  development  and  beauty.  The 
ground  under  them  may,  in  fact,  ought  to  be,  for  some 


Fig.  34. — PLANTING  FOR  BOTH  OPENNESS   AND  SECLUSION. 

years  at  least,  kept  cultivated,  and  if  this  is  well  done  and 
an  application  of  manure  be  made  occasionally,  they  will 
reach  a  large  size  in  half  the  time  they  would  if  stand- 
ing in  the  grass.  Then,  too,  we  may  feel  safe  against 
summer  drouths,  if  conveniences  for  watering  are  not  at 
hand,  for  in  such  cultivated  borders  trees  suffer  little 
from  dryness  in  the  severest  seasons  of  drouth. 

Clumps  are  desirable  for  breaking  the  transitions  from 
terrace  banks  to  natural  slopes,  and  in  other  ways  to  rec- 
oncile discrepancies  in  the  surface.  They  may  also  well 
be  introduced  for  breaking  the  outlines  of  garden  or 
foundation  walls,  or  for  hiding  unsightly  objects. 
9 


194  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

The  gain  that  comes  from  massing  evergreens  and  other 
trees  in  a  way  to  shelter  the  grounds  and  buildings,  is 
worth  considering.  It  is  really  surprising  to  see  what 
effect  Spruces,  Pines,  Hemlocks,  etc.,  planted  freely  in 
the  direction  of  prevailing  winds  ha?,  both  on  the  com- 
fort of  the  home  in  winter,  and  on  the  ability  of  many 
choice  kinds  of  trees  and  shrubs  to  withstand  the  severity 
of  the  cold ;  these,  if  exposed,  would  die  outright.  By 
thus  giving  shelter,  the  number  of  kinds  of  trees  that 
will  thrive  in  the  North  is  greatly  increased.  Many  of 
our  beautiful  native  trees  and  shrubs,  that  in  their  wild 
state  thrive  in  the  shelter  of  forests,  are  erroneously 
called  tender  in  the  North,  simply  because  they  will  not 
succeed  in  the  absence  of  the  shelter  of  trees. 

From  the  close  grouping  it  is  but  a  short  step  to  the 
open  or  scattered  arrangement  in  planting.  A  type  of  this 
style  is  to  be  found  in  an  open,  light,  and  breezy  grove, 
where  there  is  almost  as  much  of  sunshine  as  of  shade. 
This  style  may  often  be  brought  in  as  the  termination  of 
one  or  more  points  of  closer  groups,  and  in  gardening  the 
two  may  often  be  closely  associated.  While  irregularity 
and  rugged  picturesqueness  easily  become  characteristics 
of  the  close  group,  a  different  form  of  beauty,  embracing 
greater  gentleness,  marks  the  scattering  system,  for  in 
this,  each  tree  or  plant  is  allowed  to  more  fully  develop 
its  individual  beauty  and  form.  Most  of  the  instruc- 
tion and  ideas  advanced,  and  illustrations  given,  respect- 
ing ordinary  groupings  are,  however,  applicable  to  the  open 
groups,  by  merely  making  allowance  for  the  peculiarities 
of  each  member  as  regards  compactness  and  openness. 

The  scattered  cluster  is  not  so  well  adapted  to  small 
gardens  as  is  the  closer  group,  because  its  characteristic 
beauty  depends  largely  upon  ample  space,  yet  by  confin- 
ing the  selections  to  the  smaller  growing  kinds,  very 
complete  effects  are  attainable  by  this  pleasing  system, 
even  in  a  limited  space.  Figure  35  shows  some  of  the 


USE   OF   GRASS,    TREES,    SHRUBS,    ETC. 


195 


smaller  growing  Pines,  Yucca  filamentosa,  and  Deutzia 
gracilis,  the  latter  kept  clipped  to  a  rounded  form,  ar- 
ranged in  this  style  on  a  lawn. 

Where  there  are  mounds,  a  scattering  of  either  ever- 
greens or  deciduous  shrubs  in  open  clumps  over  conspicu- 
ous slopes  is  proper.  It  is  the  free  scattering  of  Juni- 
pers and  Firs  over  the  mountain  sides  skirting  the  Hudson 
River,  in  some  places,  that  lends  to  the  scenery  it  great 
charm.  A  rise  in  the  garden  may  support  half  a  dozen 


Fig.  35. — SCATTERINGS  OF  DWARF  PINES,  YUCCAS,  AND  DEUTZIA  GRACELIS 
IN  CITY  LAWNS. 

or  more  Savins  or  other  evergreens,  or  some  plants  of 
striking  foliage  like  the  Wild  Olive  or  Weigela,  planted 
near  the  crown,  and  in  this  Avay  produce  a  good  effect. 
At  the  edge  of  an  abrupt  bluff  may  be  placed  two  or 
three  Camperdown  Elms  or  other  bold  weeping  trees. 
Such  kinds  as  love  moisture,  like  the  Willows  and 
Alders  may  be  effectively  disposed  by  planting  in  similar 
clumps  along  the  water's  edge  or  in  low  places. 

Where  it  is  desirable  to  planb  trees  along  the  sides  of 
long  garden  walks  and  avenues,  for  shade,  scattering  them 
along  irregularly,  allowing  some  complete  breaks  here 


196  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

and  there,  will  produce  a  better  effect  than  to  make 
formal  lines  with  the  trees  at  uniform  distances  apart. 
There  is  a  striking  illustration  of  this  in  the  strong  con- 
trast afforded  between  the  irregularly  wooded  north 
drives  in  Hyde  Park,  London,  where  along  the  sides 
for  miles  the  trees  are  arranged  in  scattered  groups,  and 
similar  avenues  in  other  parks  with  formal  lines  of 
trees  at  their  sides.  The  same  idea  is  true  generally  of 
trees  to  be  planted  along  the  boundaries  of  large  grounds. 
They  will  create  a  much  better  effect  if  grouped  openly, 
as  in  figure  36,  than  if  set,  as  is  often  done,  in  a  straight 


Fig.   36. — PLANTING  ON    BOUNDARIES   AND  MOUNDS. 

line.  It  is  seldom  indeed  the  case,  anywhere  outside 
of  narrow  stieets,  that  formal  lines  might  not  well  give 
way  to  informal  scattering  clusters. 

Throughout  the  grounds,  open  groups  of  large  trees 
may  jut  out  from  heavy  marginal  plantations,  or  occupy 
places  by  themselves  surrounded  by  the  open  lawn,  or 
they  may  be  in  some  parts  brought  in  to  form  groves. 
Near  the  junctions  of  walks  and  drives,  or  in  bends  of 
these,  are  also  suitable  places  for  trees  thus  disposed. 
But  the  open  grouping  system  of  planting  should  never 
be  confounded  with  the  faulty  "  dot-a-tree-cvery where  " 
system  sometimes  met  with,  and  in  which  such  essential 
garden  features  as  open  areas  and  vistas  seem  to  never 
have  been  even  thought  of  by  the  planters. 

The  planting  of  trees,  shrubs,  etc.,  as  isolated  speci- 
mens, either  singly  or  two  or  three  near  each  other,  is  often 
desirable.  It  may  be  observed  that  in  nature  isolated 
specimens  generally  are,  in  effect,  subordinate  to  masses 


USE   OF   GRASS,    TREES,    SHRUBS,    ETC. 


197 


either  near,  as  if  broken  away  from  them,  or  farther  off. 
Usually  they  occupy  a  place  somewhat  central,  with 
masses  skirting  the  horizon  around,  and  it  will  be  safe  to 
have  regard  to  this  point  in  similarly  bringing  trees  and 
shrubs  into  our  gardens.  In  selecting  single  specimens 
we  should  be  governed  by  the  size  of  the  grounds  to  be 
planted.  An  Oak  makes  a  grand  tree  for  a  large  garden, 
but  a  Kilmarnock  or  Rosemary-leaved  Willow  would  be 
more  suitable  for  a  small  town  lot,  while  the  effect  of 
one  of  the  latter  would  be  almost  lost  in  the  larger  area. 
A  few  Austrian  or  White  Pines  make  a  splendid  show  in 


Fig.  37.—  ILLUSTRATING   THE  ERROR  OF  NOT  TAKING  FUTURE   GROWTH 
INTO  CONSIDERATION. 

a  roomy  cemetery,  or  any  place  of  broad  area,  but  the 
small  Junipers,  Spruces,  or  Mahonias  are  greatly  prefer- 
able for  small  grounds.  Some  of  the  most  common  mis- 
takes in  choosing  trees  is  in  such  unsuitable  selections. 
We  often  see  young  trees,  and  evergreens  particularly,  of 
strong  growing  kinds,  planted  so  near  to  walks  or  build- 
ings that  after  some  years  they  encroach  upon  them,  and 
for  the  sake  of  room  have  to  be  mutilated  by  severe  cut- 
ting, impairing  their  beauty  forever.  An  illustration  of 
this  mistake  is  shown  in  figure  37,  where  the  size  of  the 


198  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

trees,  as  they  appeared  at  planting  and  their  size  fifteen 
years  later  is  outlined.  Such  a  condition  of  things  is  de- 
plorable, because  wholly  without  adequate  remedy,  and 
of  course  owes  its  origin  to  the  fact,  that  the  planter 
only  considered  the  beauty  and  the  size  of  the  tree  at 
planting,  and  not  its  appearance  in  later  years. 

The  classification  of  trees  according  to  the  size  they 
reach  at  maturity,  as  explained  in  connection  with  figure 

I,  and  the  letters   throughout    the  description  in  Part 

II,  will  help  one  to  a  right  idea  of  the  size  of  trees  and 
shrubs.     As  a  rule,  no  tree  properly  belongs  in  grounds 
that  are  too  small  to  admit  of  its  full  development  or 
which  will  intrude  too  much  upon  space  when  full  grown. 

In  some  places  where  planting  is  done  for  shade,  an 
error  is  sesn  in  the  setting  of  not  only  larger  growers 
than  were  needed  for  the  place,  but  so  many  of  them  as 
to  defeat  the  very  idea  of  comfortable  shade,  by  shutting 
out  the  access  of  cool  breezes  and  retaining  the  heat  of 
the  sun's  rays  that  may  penetrate  here  and  there.  What 
is  wanted  in  our  hot  climate,  is  not  so  much  excessive 
shade,  as  open  shade  that  allows  the  air  to  circulate 
freely  through  and  under  the  trees.  The  character  of 
trees  has  something  to  do  with  their  forming  a  comforta- 
ble shade.  For  example,  the  shade  of  open-headed  Silver 
Maples,  Willows,  Walnut,  etc.,  is  cooler  than  that  of 
dense,  close-headed  kinds,  for  the  simple  reason  that  the 
heads  of  the  former  cause  but  a  slight  barrier  to  the 
entrance  of  cool  breezes  underneath. 

As  distinct  means  for  increasing  variety,  the  forming 
of  Shrubbery-walks,  Rosaries,  Pinetums,  etc.,  may  be 
mentioned.  These,  as  their  names  would  imply,  consist 
of  a  collection  of  members  of  the  same  family,  or  style 
of  growth,  so  arranged  as  to  facilitate  the  study  of  them 
and  to  develop  the  beauty  that  springs  from  bringing  to- 
gether in  numbers  the  different  species  of  the  same 
family. 


CLIMBEKS   AND   THEIll   USES.  109 

In  everything  pertaining  to  the  arrangment  of  trees, 
shrubs  and  plants,  there  is  room  for  the  exercise  of  a 
great  deal  of  knowledge,  taste  and  skill.  As  canvas, 
brushes  and  paints  do  not  in  themselves  make  the  paint- 
er, so  it  cannot  be  expected  that  inexperience  and  lack  of 
close  acquaintance  with  kinds,  will  accomplish  as  good 
results  in  garden  arrangment  as  arise  from  the  labors  of 
the  trained  arboriculturist  and  landscape  gardener.  Still, 
where  the  number  to  be  planted  is  limited,  and  close 
attention  is  given  to  selections,  being  guided  by  descrip- 
tions, and  then  with  proper  forethought  as  to  the  arrange- 
ment, there  need  be  little  fear  of  really  bad  results. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 
CLIMBERS  AND  THEIR  USES. 

The  value  of  the  climbing  and  twining  plants  is  en- 
titled to  higher  appreciation  than  it  now  receives  from 
Americans.  In  Europe  they  are  used  more  freely  than 
with  us.  The  adaptability  of  the  hardy  Ivy  to  the  Eu- 
ropean climate,  and  its  common  use  for  ages,  for  mant- 
ling the  walls  of  castles  and  kirks,  may  have  had  much 
to  do  with  cultivating  in  Europeans  a  love  for  climbers. 
The  Ivy,  however,  is  by  no  means  used  exclusively 
abroad.  As  a  climber  of  free  habits,  our  own  Virginia 
Creeper  seems  to  find  preference  over  it  for  most  ordi- 
nary purposes,  and  in  many  respects  it  is  greatly  its 
superior. 

The  adaptability  of  climbers  is  perhaps  without  equal 
among  plants.  Rarely  can  a  building  be  found,  even  in 
the  heart  of  a  city,  and  where  there  is  no  room  for 
shrubs  or  grass,  that  may  not  be  gracefully  adorned  with 


200 


ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


the  verdure  and  flowers  of  one  or  another  of  these.  They 
are  inexpensive  as  regards  first  cost,  of  easy  and  rapid 
growth,  adapted  to  a  great  variety  of  soils,  and  as  appro- 


\ 


Fig.  38. — FENCE  AND  GATE  POSTS   COVERED  BY  CLIMBERS. 

priate  for  decorating  a  laborer's  cottage  as  the  mansion 
of  the  millionaire. 

Figure  38  represents  a  fence  and  gate  posts  covered 
with  climbers.     For  such  a  purpose,  the  Virginian  Creep- 


Fig.  39.— SMALL  CITY  COTTAGE  FBONT  COVERED  WITH  CBEEPEB3. 

er  is  as  well  adapted  in  America  as  any,  and  with  atten- 
tion to  pinching  and  training,  may  be  made  to  serve  most 
admirably. 


CLIMBERS  AND  THEIR  USES. 


201 


Figure  39  shows  a  small  cottage,  one  of  a  row  with  a 
free  growing  climber  running  over  its  front.  The  beau- 
tiful manner  in  which  the  Virginia  Creeper,  if  thus  used, 
may  be  made  to  partially  curtain  the  windows  is  de- 
lightful; no  better  illustration  of  the  value  of  plant  life 
in  making  a  town  or  any  other  home  attractive  can  be 
found,  than  in  such  a  use  of  climbers.  By  means  of  one 
or  two  plants,  a  blank  house  front  is  converted  into  a 
scene  of  interest  and  beauty  that  at  once  attracts  the  eye 
of  every  passer.  How  readily  beauty  of  this  kind  is  at- 


Fig.  40. — SETTING  OF  GREEN  FOK     FijJ.  41. — BASE  OF  BAY  WINDOW  AND 
BAY  WINDOW.  PROJECTION  COVERED  WITH  LONICEKA. 

tainable,  and  what  a  wonderful  influence  for  good  would 
be  exerted  by  its  general  prevalence  throughout  our 
cities,  especially  in  portions  where  the  poorer  classes 
reside. 

Figures  40  and  41  show  two  bay  windows  decorated 
with  climbers,  each  different  as  regards  shape  of  windows, 
kind  of  plant  and  form  of  training.  Figure  42  shows 
the  end  wall  of  a  house  with  bay  window,  where  climb- 


202 


ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


ers,  shrubs  and  flowers  are  used  to  make  a  pretty  garden 
picture,  whether  as  seen  from  without  or  within.  For 
this  purpose  the  climbers  may  be  Wistaria,  Celastrus, 
Virginia  Creeper,  or  other  free  growers  with  Weigela, 
Japan  Quince,  Reeves's  Spiraea,  or  other  shrubs  of  shapely 
growth  and  good  foliage ;  and  Geraniums,  Coleus,  and 
similar  bright  plants  between  the  shrubs. 

The  climbers  may  be  used  to  good  advantage  in  con- 
nection with  trees  in  several  ways.  Sometimes  very 
picturesque  combinations  are  met  in  nature,  which  are 
worthy  of  imitation  in  the  garden.  Trees  fifteen  to 


Fi£.  42.— SHTUTBS,   FLOWERS,    AND 
CLIMBERS  ABOUT   A  BAT  WINDOW. 


Fig.  43.— VERANDA  COVERED  WITH 
CELASTRUS. 


twenty  feet  high  may  be  so  covered  and  weighed  down 
with  Virginia  Creeper  or  the  Wild  Grape,  as  to  form  per- 
fect arbors  of  green,  the  branches  falling  in  garlands  to 
the  ground.  Nothing  can  be  more  delightful  than  such 
natural  arbors.  If  a  tree  is  of  considerable  size  when 
such  a  climber  is  planted  at  the  root,  little  harm  to  it 
can  arise  from  the  combination. 

A  strong  plant  of  the  Dutchman's  Pipe,  or  the  Virginia 
Creeper  running  up  one  tree  trunk  about  ten  feet  high, 
and  then  carried  in  a  festoon  across  to  another  tree, 
veranda,  or  some  other  object  near  by,  makes  a  novel  and 


CLIMBERS   AND   THEIR   USES.  203 

pleasing  object  in  a  garden.     A  wire  must  be  stretched 
across  from  tree  to  tree  to  support  the  vine  at  first. 

The  value  of  climbers  for  covering  arbors,  verandas, 
and  the  like  is  generally  known.  Figure  43  represents  a 
veranda  wreathed  with  Celastrus  for  which  particular 
purpose  there  can  be  no  better  plant.  The  effect  is  best 
in  such  places  if  the  branches  are  trained  along  in  one 
line  near  the  edge  of  the  roof.  For  adorning  all  kinds 
of  arbors  and  similar  structures,  the  climbers  are  well 
fitted.  If  a  simple,  light,  frame-work  trellis  of  any  de- 


Fig.  44. — PLAN  FOK  AKBOK  OVER  A  GARDEN  SEAT. 

sired  form  is  made,  somewhat  after  the  plan  shown  in 
figure  44,  and  climbers  be  planted  to  run  over  it,  the 
affair  will  be  so  completely  covered  in  time,  that  nothing 
but  the  green  will  show,  and  an  exceedingly  pretty, 
cheap,  and  complete  shelter  from  the  sun  will  be  the 
result. 

It  is  often  desirable  to  have  a  screen  of  climbers  over 
some  portions  of  the  side  of  a  veranda  for  protection 
from  the  sun.  A  neat  and  cheap  trellis  to  support  the 
vine,  may  be  made  of  No.  12  or  14  wire,  by  putting  a 
row  of  common  screw  eyes,  such  as  can  be  bought  at 
hardware  stores,  at  six  or  eight  inches  apart  along  the 


204  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

upper  and  lower  lines  of  the  space  to  be  covered,  and 
then  running  wire  between  them,  top  and  bottom  ob- 
liquely to  form  diamond  shaped  interstices.  Where  they 
strike  the  posts,  eyes  must  be  put  in  to  fasten  the  wires, 
they  may  then  be  bound  together  at  points  of  crossing, 
strengthening  the  whole.  A  rather  better  contrivance 
with  the  wires  crimped  to  prevent  them  slipping  Avhere 
crossed  and  the  ends  attached  to  a  frame  work  of  iron 
rod,  shaped  to  fit  the  space,  may  with  some  increased  ex- 
pense be  purchased  of  wire  workers. 

Screens  to  serve  as  fences  may  be  made  in  a  similar 
way,  by  running  the  wires  from  top  to  bottom  rails  sup- 
ported by  posts.  These  made  to  take  the  place  of  fences 
or  hedges,  around  divisions  of  the  garden,  prove  very  at- 
tractive when  covered  with  vines. 

Figure  45  shows  a  screen  of  this  character  with  an 
archway  carried  over  the  walk, 
and   all   covered  with   one  or 
two  climbers.     For  such  pur- 
poses nothing  can  be  superior 
to  that  valuable  and  common 
climber,  the  Virginia  Creeper. 
Fig.  45,-scREEN  OF  VINES.     For  the  sake  of  variety,  how- 
WITH  ABCHWAT.  cver)    the    Flowering    Honey- 

suckles, Clematis,  Wistaria,  or  others  may  also  be  used. 
A  use  to  which  climbers  may  be  put  in  many  gardens 
is  represented  by  figure  46.  Light  posts  of  any  hight, 
from  eighteen  inches  upwards,  may  be  set  in  line  and 
connected  by  a  wire  running  from  one  to  another 
through  the  posts  near  the  top.  By  keeping  up  a  nar- 
row border  on  the  line  of  the  posts,  and  planting  a  climb- 
er at  each,  the  whole  structure  will  become  beautifully 
covered  in  time.  A  line  of  this  kind  at  the  edge  of  a 
terrace  in  place  of  a  balustrade,  proves  pleasing  and  in- 
expensive. 
A  dead  tree  trunk,  an  oak  post  ten  or  twelve  feet  high, 


CLIMBERS   AND   THEIR   USES.  205 

or  a  large  boulder  covered  over  with  free  growing  climbers 
are  handsome  objects  in  gardens.  Honeysuckles  or  other 
climbers  may  be  made  to  form  handsome  altars  of  green 
and  flowers  in  the  lawn,  if  five  or  six  stakes  are  put  about 
the  plants,  say  four  feet  high,  surrounding  them  with 
about  three  hoops  at  equal  distances  and  allowing  the 
vine  to  cover  them.  If  the  Gold-Netted  Honeysuckle 
be  used  it  will  give  a  splendid  golden  effect.  Other 
fonns  of  trellis  may  also  be  used  similarly  for  adorning 
lawns. 

Mantles  and  festoons  of  greenery  over  walls,  railings, 
bridges,  arbors,  and  the  buildings  generally,  are  so  pleas- 


Fig.  46.— POSTS  WITH  GARLANDS  BETWEEN. 

ing  to  the  eye  that  the  use  of  climbers  should  be  very 
common.  Plants  of  trailing  habit,  such  as  Periwinkle, 
Ivy  and  prostrate  Jumpers,  are  useful  as  edgings  to  plats 
of  grass  or  shrubbery  groups,  or  the  former  for  covering 
terrace  banks,  shady  places  against  buildings,  or  under 
trees  where  nothing  else  will  grow.  Single  lines  of 
Periwinkle  or  Ivy,  a  foot  or  more  wide  between  walks 
and  the  lawn,  are  effective,  as  there  is  a  pleasing  contrast 
between  the  dark-green  foliage  of  the  former,  and  the 
lighter  green  of  the  grass.  With  a  little  attention  to 
trimming,  either  of  these  plants  may  be  made  to  form  a 
shapely  rounded  line.  The  Gold-netted  Honeysuckle 
may  also  be  thus  used,  and  in  that  caso  the  color  is  much 
lighter  than  that  of  the  grass. 


206  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

CHAPTEK  XIX. 
FLOWERING  AND  ORNAMENTAL  PLANTS. 

The  effectiveness  of  hardy  perennial  or  annual  flower- 
ing plants  in  the  garden  depends,  as  with  woody  plants, 
much  upon  their  position  and  arrangement.  In  the  nat- 
ural style  of  garden  making,  the  front  parts  of  tree  and 
shrubbery  borders,  as  well  as  in  the  midst  of  these,  in  the 
bare  spaces,  are  suitable  places  for  these  or  flowers  of 
every  kind.  Some  lines  of  bright  annuals,  or  low,  hardy, 
variegated  grass,  or  any  other  low  growing  plants  that 
are  suitable  for  edging,  may  be  placed  next  to  the  grass, 
while  in  the  bays  of  the  shrubbery  line,  and  also  further 
back,  showy,  hardy  plants,  bulbs,  bright,  seed-grown 
things,  as  well  as  tender,  perpetual  blooming  flowers  may 
be  set.  There  are  many  little  hardy  flowers  that  thrive 
directly  under  the  shade  of  shrubs,  and  some  of  these 
may  be  introduced  to  become  naturalized  in  such  places. 
All  kinds  may  be  grouped  promiscuously,  or  for  the  sake 
of  variety  in  somo  places,  be  arranged  in  lines  lengthwise 
or  in  any  other  direction.  Combinations  of  different 
classes  of  ornamental  plants  may  easily  be  so  managed  in 
borders,  as  to  render  them  very  attractive  in  flowers  and 
foliage  from  early  spring  until  freezing  weather  in  the 
fall.  Different  borders  and  beds  on  the  same  ground 
may  be  planned  to  differ  in  arrangement  and  style  of 
expression.  Even  if  the  free-flowering,  tender  plants 
that  must  be  newly  bedded  each  year,  were  omitted  from 
these  collections,  a  selection  of  hardy  plants  alone  could 
be  employed,  that  would,  together  with  flowering  shrubs, 
never  allow  the  beds  to  be  without  flowers  or  attractive- 
ness during  the  growing  season. 

In  the  use  of  seed-grown  plants  in  such  places,  or  in 
any  place,  if  the  massing  plan  were  more  generally  ob- 


FLOWERING    AND    OBNAMENTAL   PLANTS.  207 

served  in  setting  them,  these  flowers  would  have  a  better 
reputation  in  fine  gardens.  Candytuft,  Clarkia,  Erysi- 
mum,  and  all  kinds,  in  fact,  if  sown  in  round,  triangu- 
lar, or  other  shaped  drills,  the  ends  of  which  meet,  and 
about  eighteen  inches  or  upwards  across,  so  as  to  form  a 
clump  of  foliage  and  flowers  when  grown,  prove,  as  a 
rule,  much  finer  than  the  same  plants  scattered  in  drib- 
lets too  small  to  make  an  impression. 

The  more  common  use  of  the  many  attractive  hardy 
flowers,  is  recommended  in  every  kind  of  ornamental 
gardening.  Admitting  that  there  is  something  of  a  lack 
in  the  constancy  of  bloom  afforded,  as  compared  with  the 
tender  bedders,  it  should  be  remembered  that  they  are 
inexpensive  to  get  at  the  start,  and  once  planted  are  al- 
most as  permanent  as  Oak  trees,  growing  and  increasing 
indefinitely.  They  come  up  each  spring  with  little  care, 
many  of  them  are  unequalled  for  beauty,  and  selections 
can  be  made  that  will,  by  succession,  afford  in  different 
kinds  a  constant  sho\v  of  flowers  during  the  summer 
season.  Some  of  this  class  are  very  fine  if  arranged  in 
clumps,  either  alone,  or  several  kinds  together  on  the 
la\vn.  Lily  of  the  Valley,  Plantain  Lilies,  Crocus,  Col- 
chicums,  Yuccas,  Pampas,  and  other  grasses,  Peonies 
and  some  others  possessing  attractive  flowers  and  foliage 
are  effective  when  so  planted. 

The  more  formal  style  of  arranging  flowers  and  plants 
-sometimes  called  carpet  bedding — in  which  mostly 
tender  kinds,  such  as  are  planted  anew  every  spring, 
and  produce  richly  colored  flowers  or  foliage,  are  used, 
is  a  very  effective  as  well  as  popular  means  of  embellish- 
ing pleasure  grounds.  Bright  flowers  and  showy  foliage, 
if  brought  together  in  tasteful  designs,  with  regard  for 
harmony  and  contrasts,  are  susceptible  of  producing 
most  attractive  results. 

Some  excellent  and  elaborate  work  in  this  line  is  now 
to  be  seen  everywhere  in  gardens  both  private  and  public, 


208  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

as  well  as  in  cemeteries.  The  managers  of  Lincoln  Park, 
Chicago,  and  in  Battersea  Park,  London,  England,  easily 
take  the  lead  in  this  style  of  adornment,  and  the  display 
now  annually  made  in  each  of  these,  as  well  as  in  some 
other  parks  that  could  be  named,  would  be  difficult  -to 
excel.  That  these  embellishments  are  in  the  main  well 
conceived  and  find  appreciation  from  the  public  is  easily 
seen  in  the  fact,  that  in  these  parks,  which  abound  in  a 
variety  of  interesting  garden  and  other  features — the 
former  both  in  the  natural  and  other  styles — the  parts 
devoted  to  these  showy  arrangements  of  flowers  are  those 
among  all  competing  ones  in  interest,  that  are  the  most 
constantly  thronged  by  admirers. 

I  am  well  aware  that  some  advocates  of  a  strictly  nat- 
ural style  of  garden  making,  pronounce  against  the 
bedding  or  massing  system  as  being  wrong  both  in  prin- 
ciple and  taste.  But  it  will  be  difficult  to  ever  educate 
the  people  to  have  none  of  it,  for  that  it  has  a  legitimate 
place  in  the  ornamentation  of  grounds  is  obvious  to  most 
gardeners  and  other  persons.  When  the  mass  of  the 
people  may  be  brought  to  see  that  there  is  more  real 
beauty  in  the  coarse  primitive  Zinnia,  Balsam,  or  Iris, 
than  in  the  splendid  improvements  on  these  that  have 
been  accomplished  by  art,  then  they  may  also  learn  to 
despise  art  in  the  arrangement  of  flowers.  And  as  to  the 
use  of  geometrical  lines  and  outlines,  delicate  tints  and 
rich  colors  combined  in  contrasts,  where  can  be  found 
more  suggestive  examples,  in  such  arrangements,  than 
in  nature's  own  work-shop,  in  the  mutiplicity  of  such 
forms  and  combinations  as  are  everywhere  in  the  flowers, 
fruits  and  foliage  of  the  vegetable  kingdom. 

That  disagreeable  effects  often  do  arise  in  this,  as  in 
other  uses  of  flowers,  is  very  true,  but  a  chief  cause 
for  this,  it  should  be  understood,  comes  from  disregard- 
ing the  true  relation  of  flowers  and  plants  in  such  ar- 
rangments  to  garden  scenery  generally.  It  should  be  re- 


FLOWERING   AND   ORNAMENTAL  PLANTS.  209 

membcred  that  the  sphere  of  such  a  style  of  ornamenta- 
tion is  in  the  line  of  what  has  elsewhere  been  termed 
minor  embellishments,  hence  it  follows,  that  the  use  of 
striking  and  fanciful  compositions  like  these  must  be 
limited  accordingly.  If  nature  shows  many  fanciful 
forms,  and  varied  colors  in  her  attractive  flowers,  she 
also  teaches  by  example,  that  those  in  order  to  be  most 
beautiful  need  an  appropriate  setting,  hence  we  find 
every  flower  usually  borne  above  or  brought  in  close 
conjunction  with  masses  of  foliage,  which  give  it  needed 
relief.  So  too,  diamonds  and  rich  ribbons  in  dress,  are 
only  used  with  their  full  power  for  conveying  pleasure 
to  the  eye,  when  they  find  an  appropriate  setting  in  con- 
nection with  something  that  possesses  less  capacity  for 
ornamentation. 

Mr.  DeVry's  great  success  in  using  flowers  and  plants 
in  the  Chicago  Park,  lies  largely  in  the  fact,  that  al- 
though a  multitude  of  beds  are  filled,  they  are  so  seated 
on  ample  areas  of  lawn,  and  these  skirted  by  trees,  that 
notwithstanding  their  abundance,  they  seem  only  to 
richly  embellish  the  parts  where  they  are  introduced.  In 
marked  contrast  with  his  success,  is  a  conspicuous  flower 
garden  annually  made  in  the  West  End  Park  of  Glasgow, 
Scotland.  Here  is  a  garden  of  flowers  instead  of  a  gar- 
den (or  a  part  of  it)  embellished  with  flowers.  The  ar- 
rangement consists  of  a  circular  plat,  one  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  across,  bounded  by  a  gravel  walk,  and  divided 
by  others  into  about  fifty  different  sized  flower  beds, 
which  are  closely  planted,  and  there  is  little  or  noth- 
ing else  besides.  The  entire  absence  of  grass  and  other 
features  that  deserve  to  be  termed  major  features  of 
adornment,  the  numerous  walks  and  the  sameness  that 
exists  in  the  form  of  the  beds,  all  serve  to  produce  a  very 
weak  effect,  with  a  great  abundance  of  very  excellent 
plant  material. 

In  a  public  garden  near  New  York,  I  met  recently  a 


210 


OKNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


marked  example  of  the  misuse  of  flowers  in  embellishing 
grounds  as  shown  in  figure  47.  The  beauty  of  a  conspic- 
uous but  not  large  plat  was  almost  destroyed,  and  at  large 
cost,  by  immense,  long,  glaring  masses  of  a  single  color 


WAIK. 
Fig.  47. — TOO  MANY  FLOWERS  FOB  GOOD  EFFECT. 

of  geranium,  with  only  the  relief  of  a  few  lines  of  other 
plants  at  the  edge. 

Figure  48  shows  the  improvement  of  which  the  same 
spot  was  susceptible,  if  less  than  one-fourth  as  many 
plants  had  been  used,  but  on  the  principle  of  employing 
them  as  minor  features  in  the  adornment,  with  a  corres- 


Fig.  48.— THE  SAME  PLAT  WITH  FEWER  FLOWERS. 

ponding  increase  of  grass,  and  the  former  arranged  by 
introducing  a  little  pleasing  variety  into  the  designs. 

Let  bright  flowers  and  plants  be  used  in  planting  the 
garden,  being  guided  by  the  same  principle  upon  which 
growing  flowers  or  plants  are  set  to  be  surrounded  and 
supported  by  a  profusion  of  foliage,  or  that  which  gov- 


FLOWEBTBTQ  A.ND  OKNAMENTAL   PLANTS. 


ems  the  tasteful  use  of  ornaments  in  dress,  never  using 
them  in  excess.  Thus  employed,  whether  the  ground 
to  be  embellished  is  a  square  rod  or  many  acres,  there 
will  be  little  room  for  complaint  of  the  formal  style  of 


Fig.  50.  Fig.  5L 

SMALL  BEDS  CUT   IN  A  LAWN. 


Fig.  53. 


arrangement,  provided  the  designs  after  which  the  flow- 
ers are  planted  be  in  themselves  good  and  tasteful. 

The  character  of  the  designs  which  are  followed  in 
setting  out  plants  in  formal  or  geometric  bedding  has 
Fig.  53.  Fig.  54.  Fig.  55. 


Fig.  56. 


Fig.  57. 

LABGE   CIKCULAB  BEDS  IN  A  LAWN. 


Fig.  58. 


much  to  do  with  their  beauty.  In  the  accompanying 
engraving  are  shown  numerous  tasteful  plans,  which 
may  serve  as  a  guide  in  this  kind  of  work.  Figures  49 


212  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

to  52  show  four  beds  of  irregular  outline,  suitable  for 
planting  with  different  kinds  or  colors  as  indicated  by 
dotted  lines,  or  the  same  shaped  beds  may  be  planted 
with  a  single  kind.  If  such  beds  of  any  desired  size, 
say  from  four  to  eight  feet  across,  are  cut  into  the  lawn, 
and  planted  with  Coleus,  Geraniums,  Cannas,  Alternan- 
theras,  or  other  showy  plants,  they  will  be  very  pleasing. 

For  larger  beds  of  circular  outline,  from  ten  to  twenty 
feet  across,  the  designs  from  figures  53  to  58  are  any  "of 
them  handsome  for  garden  lawns,  if  well  planted  with  a 
good  selection  of  kinds.  The  central  figures  alone  of 
several  of  these  might  be  laid  out  in  the  lawn,  depending 
on  the  grass  for  ground  work  with  capital  effect. 

Two  beds  of  oval  shape  are  shown  in  figures  59  and  t>0. 
In  some  places  such  a  form  is  required  in  preference  to 


Fig.  59.  Fig.  60. 

ELABORATE  BEDS  OF  OVAL  FORM. 

the  round.  The  various  designs  here  given  may  be  the 
means  of  suggesting  others  to  the  inventive  mind.  I 
have  not  taken  space  to  illustrate  plain  circles,  stars, 
crescents,  squares,  triangles,  and  other  simple  designs,  all 
of  which  look  attractive  in  the  lawn,  and  are  easily  made 
by  any  one.  In  all  cases,  whatever  designs  are  used,  let 
them  be  quite  simple.  While  it  is  easy  to  draught  an 
elaborate  plan  that  will  be  satisfactory  in  pen  or  pencil 
marks  upon  paper,  the  same  might  be  very  difficult  to 
work  out  in  plants. 


FLOWERING   AND   ORNAMENTAL   PLANTS.  213 

PLANTS   FOR   CARPET   BEDS. 

In  choosing  these,  those  of  contrasting  colors  should 
be  brought  together.  The  parts  appearing  dark  and 
lighter  in  the  engravings,  just  given,  will  readily  suggest 
how  colors  may  be  used  in  different  parts.  No  precise 
rule,  however,  can  be  laid  down  for  this,  and  variations 
without  end  are  allowable  if  made  with  good  taste. 

"Where  a  bight  of  nine  inches  and  upwards  of  a  solid 
mass  of  color  is  desired,  the  Coleus,  Achyranthes,  Ge- 
ranium, Centaurea,  Variegated  Stevia,  Gnaphalium, 
Abutilon  Thompsoni,  and  so  forth,  are  among  the  best 
that  can  be  used.  When  plants  of  a  lower  growth  are 
desired,  say  from  four  to  eight  inches,  the  following  are 
suitable  :  Alternantheras,  Golden-Feather  Pyrethrums, 
Variegated  Thyme  of  several  kinds,  Alyssum  in  several 
varieties,  Lobelia,  Dwarf  Ageratum,  Cigar  plant  (Cuphea) 
and  Golden  and  Silver-edged  Geraniums. 

For  forming  a  low  carpet,  Othonna  sedifolia  (crassi- 
folia  of  some),  Dew  Plant  (Mesembryanthemum)  in  two 
varieties,  Echeveria  (Cotyledon]  secunda  glauca,  Pilea 
sorpyllifolia,  Moneywort,  Leucophyton,  the  prostrate 
Sedums,  all  of  low-trailing  habit,  rarely  growing  more 
than  two  inches  high,  are  the  most  valuable. 

For  low  edgings  the  Alternantheras,  Thymes,  Alys- 
sums,  Golden  Feather,  Leucophyton,  Echeverias  and 
others  are  suitable.  Sometimes  these  kinds  are  used  in 
beds  like  those  of  figures  58  and  59,  and  also  others  for 
making  single  lines  or  to  mark  divisions  through  plants 
of  low  growth. 

For  the  center  of  beds,  or  to  place  at  points  in  the  de- 
sign, the  Agaves,  Echeverias,  Yuccas,  Dracenas,  Palms, 
etc.,  may  be  used,  while  something  taller  yet  to  occupy 
a  space  in  the  middle  of  beds  is  found  in  Caladiums, 
Cannas,  Ricinus,  Striped  Maize,  and  others. 


214  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

RAISED    GEOMETRIC    BEDS. 

The  modern  style  of  raised  geometric  beds,  one  of 
which  is  represented  by  figure  61,  are  ornamental  in  the 
highest  degree  when  well  designed  and  planted  and  prop- 
erly cared  for.  The  one  shown  in  the  engraving, 
sketched  in  Mt.  Auburn  Cemetery,  near  Boston,  was 
about  two  and  a  half  feet  high  at  the  foot  of  the  plant 
vase,  and  all  parts  of  it  thickly  planted  with  Eclieverias, 
Othonna,  Dracenas,  Sedurns  and  a  few  other  low  plants. 


Fig.  61. — AN  ELABO1UTE,    ELEVATED  BED. 

The  graceful  outlines  and  excellent  proportions,  the 
slopes  and  surfaces  of  various  forms  and  angles,  and  the 
contrast  between  delicate  colors,  shown  in  the  com- 
positions, together  contributed  to  an  effect  at  once  quietly 
pleasing,  rich  and  beautiful. 

There  is  no  limit  to  the  variety  and  pleasing  effects 
that  may  be  secured  in  this  style,  in  designs  marked 
either  by  simplicity  or  by  elaboration.  A  very  simple, 
yet  effective  form,  consists  of  a  series  of  circular  terraces 
placed  stair-like,  one  above  another,  each  a  foot  high 
with  the  bottom  one  eight,  the  next  six  and  a  half, 
then  five  feet,  three  and  a  half  and  two  feet  across  re- 
spectively, with  a  large  Dracena  or  Agave  at  the  top, 
crowning  all.  The  level  parts  planted  with  Alternan- 
theras,  and  the  almost  perpendicular  slopes  with  Eche- 
verias,  produce  a  very  fine  result. 


FLOWERING   AND   ORNAMENTAL   PLANTS. 


215 


In  a  still  more  simple  style,  the  bed  is  raised  six  inches 
or  more  above  the  common  surface,  with  an  abruptly 
sloping  edge.  The  surface  of  the  bed  is  occupied  as  any 
ordinary  bed,  while  the  slope  may  be  planted  with  Eche- 
verias  or  other  plants  that  lie  close  to  the  ground.  If  the 


Fig.  62. — DESIGNS  FOB  CORNERS.      Fig.  63.— SECTION  OF  RIBBON  BORDER. 

slope  is  covered  with  grass  kept  nicely  clipped,  instead 
of  Echeverias,  etc.,  the  effect  is  also  good.  The  outline 
of  such  beds  may  be  of  any  other  form  than  circular, 
such  as  a  star,  crescent,  oval,  etc. 


DESIGNS   FOR   CORNERS   AND   BORDERS. 

Figure  63  represents  two  designs  of  flower  beds  for  the 
corners  formed  by  the  intersections  of  walks  or  drives  at 
right  angles;  where  two  corners  directly  opposite  are  to  be 
thus  occupied,  the  same  design  ought  to  be  used  in  both. 

Figure  C3  shows  a  section  of  border  in  the  ribbon 
style.  Commencing  with  line  a,  low  plants  are  used, 
and  with  this  the  hight  is 
increased  with  each  letter, 
and  the  d  may  contain  the 
highest  plants,  from  this 
they  decrease  in  size,  and 
those  in  g  and  a  being  alike 


Fig.64. — PORTION  OF  SCROLL  BORDER. 


in  hight.     The  effect  of  a 

long  border  of  this  kind  is 

very  striking.     .A.  scroll  pattern  for  a  border  ic  shown  in 

figure  64. 


216 


ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


A  beautiful  narrow  border  in  an  arabesque  arrangement, 
all  the  plants  of  which  should  be  fine,  low-growing  kinds, 
is  shown  in  figure  65.  In  carrying  out  any  of  the  de- 
signs given,  it  is  hardly  possible  in  transferring  the  pat- 
tern to  the  ground  to  take  too  great  pains  with  all  lines, 
to  have  them  of  proper  shape  and  in  graceful  curves. 
Beds  are  often  seen  which  were  intended  to  be  copies  of 


Fig.  65. — ARABESQUE  PATTERN  IN  PART  FOR  BORDER. 

excellent  patterns,  but  the  work  of  laying  out  and  plant- 
ing was  done  in  such  an  inferior  manner  as  to  deprive  it 
wholly  of  its  due  effect. 

LOCATION   OF  FLOWER  BEDS. 

The  placing  of  flower  beds  should  al- 
ways be  decided  upon  with  care.  It  is  as 
necessary  to  have  regard  to  the  general 
effect  of  a  bed  on  the  garden  as  to  having 
it  show  well  on  its  own  account.  The 
centre  of  a  principal  grass  plat  to  many 
first  suggests  itself  as  being  the  most 
suitable  place  of  all  for  beds,  when  in 
fact  it  is  the  very  place  not  to  be  cut 
into,  if  we  would  preserve  that  most 
essential  of  all  features  in  a  garden,  un- 
impaired breadth  and  openness  of  lawn. 
Place  them  rather  towards  the  end  or 
sides.  Indentures  in  shrubbery  borders 
as  shown  in  figure  66,  afford  good  posi- 
tions for  them. 


Fig.  66. 


It  is  well,  when  grading  the  grounds,  to  have  some 


FLOWERING    AND   ORNAMENTAL   PLANTS. 


217 


such  points  as  these  made  slightly  elevated,  or  mound- 
like,  expressly  for  accommodating  showy  flower-beds.  In 
this  way  a  desirable  degree  of  boldness  may  be  secured, 
while  the  means  by  which  it  was  acquired  would  ordinarily 
escape  detection.  But  be  careful  not  to  make  such  ele- 
vations too  high,  else  they  may  appear  unnatural. 

The  Parisians  have  a  pleasing  mode  of  using  flowers  in 
decorating  their  lawns  worth  noticing.  It  consists  of 
running  a  narrow  border  several  feet  in  from  the  edge  of 
grass  plats,  on  four  sides,  with  some  openings  to  the 
centre,  as  shown  in  figure  G7.  These  borders  are  usually 
from  three  to  six  feet  wide,  with  the  plants  arranged 


^•-•^ji&gS'Ml 


J.  67. — FRENCH  METHOD  OF  ADORNING  LAWSS. 

in  the  mixed  irregular  style  and  quite  uncrowded,  with 
usually  an  edging  of  some  bright  low  plants.  It  is  a 
charming  style,  and  the  effect  is  largely  due  to  preserving 
an  ample  central  plat  of  grass.  A  pleasing  feature  is 
the  introduction  of  some  handsome  shrubs,  along  the 
centre  of  the  borders  at  equal  distances  apart.  Altogether 
the  arrangement  is  satisfactory  to  the  eye,  and  worthy 
of  adoption  in  our  gardens  when  of  sufficient  area. 
10 


218  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

SUB-TROPICAL  GARDEN'S. 

Sub-tropical  gardens  are  those  in  which  tropical  and 
sub-tropical  plants  of  showy  foliage,  like  the  Palms, 
(Jycas,  Dracenas,  Agaves,  and  many  others,  or  else  kinds 
of  a  different  nature  that  bear  some  resemblance  to  these, 
or  both,  are  used  with  a  view  to  introducing  some  of  the 
picturesqueness  of  tropical  vegetation  into  the  gardens 
of  the  North.  Under  the  head  of  Hardy  Plants  in  Part 
II  are  named  some  of  that  class,  which  possess  qualities 
that  suit  them  to  this  style  of  gardening.  These  pos- 
sess a  special  value  for  the  purpose,  because  while  very 
effective  along  with  others,  unlike  the  Palms  and  other  ten- 
der tropicals,  they  can  be  had  in  any  garden,  without  re- 
quiring a  conservatory  in  which  to  winter  them.  To  such 
also  may  be  added  some  hardy  trees  and  shrubs  that  have 
a  picturesque  appearance,  like  the  Ailanthus,  Cut-leaved 
Sumach,  Aralias,  Magnolias,  Honey  Locusts,  and  others. 
The  first  two  named,  when  used  for  this  purpose,  should 
be  subjected  to  the  peculiar  treatment  of  cutting  them 
down  to  near  the  ground  every  year,  and  then  depending 
upon  the  new  growth  for  effect.  Some  plants  grown  from 
seed  and  tubers,  such  as  Eicinus,  Japanese  Maize,  Sun- 
flower, Caladiums,  Cannas,  etc.,  are  also  very  suitable 
here.  If  with  a  good  collection  of  such  kinds,  only  a  few 
real  tropicals  can  be  used,  a  decidedly  good  effect  may  be 
created.  These  latter  kinds  will  be  growing  in  pots,  which 
should  be  sunk  in  the  soil  of  the  bed.  Even  if  the 
true  tropicals  are  entirely  lacking,  the  effect  may  still 
be  very  satisfactory.  The  sub-tropical  garden  should  be 
in  a  place  somewhat  protected  from  sweeping  winds,  for 
these  play  havoc  with  the  foliage  of  some  kinds. 

HARDY   FERNS   AND   THE  WILD   GARDEN. 

The  hardy  Ferns  are  a  class  of  plants  of  peculiar  beau- 
ty, and  an  out-door  fernery  is  very  desirable.  Delight- 


FLOWERING   AND   ORNAMENTAL   PLANTS.  219 

ing  in  shade,  as  most  of  them  do,  there  are  many  town 
lots  so  hedged  in  by  high  buildings  as  to  forbid  the 
growth  of  other  plants,  but  which  are  well  adapted  to 
growing  ferns.  Beds  for  these  may  be  treated  as  low 
rockeries.  In  Part  IV  directions  are  given  for  preparing 
soil  for  them. 

The  Wild  Garden  is  a  place  where  interesting  wild  and 
cultivated  plants  are  brought  together  in  the  most  nat- 
ural manner,  and  allowed  to  live  and  struggle,  much 
as  they  do  when  wild.  In  small  grounds  a  place  in  the 
midst  of  groups  of  trees  and  shrubs,  or  in  large  grounds 
a  number  of  acres  partly  wood  and  partly  open,  treated 
thus  for  revealing  the  wildness  peculiar  to  woods  and 
clearings,  may  be  rendered  a  most  enjoyable  place.  Where 
space  will  admit,  hardy  flowers,  grasses,  ferns,  and  creep- 
ers should  be  scattered  about,  and  thickets  be  formed  of 
shrubs,  including  brambles.  Some  clumps  of  the  more 
graceful  wild-looking  plants  of  the  garden  should  be 
placed  here,  together  with  those  gathered  from  woods 
and  clearings.  Here  is  a  place  where  the  Fennel-leaved 
Paeony  will  be  enjoyed  more  than  would  an  improved 
variety  with  large  gobular  flowers ;  the  single  Briar  Rose 
more  than  the  best  improved  Hybrid  Perpetual.  Some 
annuals  may  be  scattered  over  the  soil  in  spots,  to  come 
along  as  they  can,  and  some  of  these  will  live  for  years 
by  self-seeding. 

Rocks,  stumps,  and  mounds,  clothed  with  Mosses, 
Lichens,  Winter-green,  Partridge-berry,  and  many  other 
little  wild  things  are  well  in  such  a  place,  and  could 
there  be  a  small  brook  with  aquatic  plants,  trees,  and 
rocky  cliffs  festooned  with  climbers,  little  would  be  lack- 
ing to  render  the  spot  constantly  attractive.  The  loveli- 
ness and  ceaselessly  varying  charms  of  such  scenes  are 
indeed  difficult  to  describe,  and  something  of  the  kind 
would  prove  to  be  one  of  the  most  gratifying  spots  in 
any  place,  no  matter  what  other  features  of  adornment 


220  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

might  be  introduced.  Then  such  a  wild  garden  has  the 
great  merit  of  permanence  and  inexpensiveness,  for  if 
arranged  with  some  judgment  at  first,  the  colony  may 
almost  be  left  to  take  care  of  itself.  If  the  owner  were  to 
go  away  for  ten  years,  time  would  so  add  to  its  attrac- 
tions, that  he  might  on  his  return  find  it  more  beautiful 
than  ever. 


CHAPTER  XX. 
ROCKWORK. 


That  there  is  a  general  love  for  the  rough  picturesque- 
ness  of  rocks  and  crags,  is  shown  by  the  frequency  with 
which  the  former,  in  either  good  taste  or  bad,  are  used 


Fig.  68.— SIMPLE  FORM  OF  ROCKWORK. 

for  adorning  home  grounds.  "With  rocks  we  may  trans- 
fer material  for  garden  embellishment  from  nature,  that 
remains  wholly  unchanged  with  the  removal. 

The  effectiveness  of  rockwork  depends  largely  upon 
the  manner  in  which  it  is  formed.  Figure  68  represents 
one  of  the  simplest  ways  of  using  rocks  and  stones  for 
garden  adornment.  Stones  of  most  any  size  that  can  be 
handled  are  set  a  part  of  their  length  in  the  soil  of  a  bed, 
somewhat  mound-like  in  shape,  and  at  such  distances 
apart  as  to  allow  some  plants  to  grow  between  them. 
They  are  better  for  being  elongated,  mostly  setting  them 
then  with  their  longest  way  at  right  angles  with  the  sur- 
face of  the  soil. 


ROCKWORK. 


221 


Chips  of  building  stone  from  the  cutter's  yard  are  excel- 
lent. If  their  diameters  are  nearly  alike,  they  may  vary 
considerably  in  length  without  deteriment.  If  kinds  of 
two  or  more  different  colors  and  shades  can  be  selected  for 
the  same,  or  different  beds,  a  pleasing  kind  of  variety  is 
thus  secured. 

Such  a  rockery  is  well  suited  to  ferns  or  any  plants 
that  in  order  to  flourish  need  moisture  at  the  roots.  The 
stones  aid  the  retention  of  moisture  in  the  soil,  and  it 
may  be  remarked  that  the  nearer  flat  the  bed  is  kept  the 


Mg.  69. — A  BOCK-BOBDER  WITH  BOOK-PLANTS,  CLJMBEBS,  EVEB- 
GREENS,   ETC. 

less  trouble  there  will  be  from  drying  out.  A  rockery  is 
well  adapted  to  situations  which  are  difficult  to  embellish 
otherwise,  such  as  narrow  spaces  between  the  walks  and 
fence  or  house,  or  in  angles  formed  by  buildings  and 
walls,  or  at  junctions  of  walks,  and  sometimes  they  may 
be  even  used  effectually  in  simple  circular  mounds. 

Figure  69  shows  a  rock-border  suitable  to  be  placed 
next  to  the  boundary  of  lots,  against  buildings,  or  to  be 
used  as  a  low  screen.  The  engraving  will  give  sugges- 
tions for  arranging  such  mound  rockeries.  It  is  seen 
that  there  is  first  an  edging  of  stones  mostly  set  on  their 


222 


OBNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


ends,  retaining  the  soil  of  the  mounds.  Then  there  are. 
more  or  less  stones,  large  and  small,  partly  imbedded  in 
the  soil  all  over  the  surface.  The  mound  should,  for  the 
sake  of  variety,  vary  somewhat  in  its  hight  in  different 
parts.  As  shown  here,  the  front  line  is  supposed  to  vary 
from  one  to  three  feet  in  hight.  The  ground  outline 
may  be  waved  or  straight,  as  may  be  preferred,  or  space 
will  allow.  In  some  places  pockets  are  arranged  among 
the  stones  in  laying  them  up,  for  holding  soil  and  plants, 


Fig.  70.— IDEA  FOB  WALKS  IN  A  KOCK-GARDEN. 

and  in  these  trailers,  like  Moneywort,  Vinca  or  Peri- 
winkle, etc.,  may  be  set. 

This  engraving  represents  a  rockery  which  is  fully  ex- 
posed to  the  sun.  Such,  if  made  fifteen  to  twenty  feet 
wide,  will  accommodate  a  large  variety  of  hardy  and  tender 
plants,  dwarf,  deciduous,  and  evergreen  shrubs,  etc.  It 
is  an  excellent  place  for  some  of  the  slightly  tender  ever- 
greens, for  the  soil  being  elevated,  is  never  wet,  and  al- 
lows the  annual  growth  to  ripen  so  thoroughly  that  they 
can  endure  severe  cold  with  impunity. 

In  grounds  of  large  extent,  and  especially  on  places 


ROCKWORK.  223 

where  large  stones  abound,  rock-gardens  can  be  formed 
with  many  variations.  An  idea  for  walks  in  such  a  gar- 
den is  given  in  figure  70,  the  rock-faced  line  of  the 
mound  as  shown  in  figure  69,  forming  the  edge  of  the 
walk  all  around.  The  outer  edge  of  the  outside  mounds, 
and  also  beyond,  may  be  planted  with  shrubs  and  trees, 
but  these,  especially  the  trees,  should  not  be  so  dense  all 
around  as  to  shut  out  the  cool  breezes  in  summer.  If 
such  a  rock-garden  is  formed  where  one  or  several 
large  shade  trees  stand,  and  the  walks  are  carried  near 
or  under  these,  and  seats  provided  in  the  shade,  and  then 
if  a  small  stream  of  water  can  be  had  to  pass  through  it, 
about  every  requirement  for  a  very  complete  rock-garden 
would  be  met,  and  one  suited  to  plants  that  like  shade, 
moisture,  and  dry  places. 

Sometimes  instead  of  sowing  a  slope  in  the  pleasure 
garden  with  grass,  its  surface  may  be  converted  into  a 
rockery.  There  is  a  chance  in  large  rock-gardens  for  in- 
troducing an  almost  endless  variety  in  the  shape  of 
grottos,  steps,  archways,  springs,  pools,  cascades, 
bridges,  ledges,  shelves,  etc. ,  and  it  is  not  a  difficult  mat- 
ter to  render  these  remarkably  interesting  and  attractive. 

In  planting,  the  principles  governing  the  arrangement 
of  groups  of  trees  and  shrubs,  touched  upon  in  previous 
chapters,  may  be  observed  here.  One  part  of  the  con- 
struction may  have  trailers  predominating,  another  ever- 
greens, from  the  spiry  dwarf  Spruces  and  Junipers  to 
the  Creeping  Junipers  and  Ivies,  still  others  may  be  de- 
voted to  alpine  plants,  upland  and  shade-loving  ferns, 
wild  flowers,  and  even  showy  tender  tropicals  and  green- 
house plants  may  be  introduced.  In  moist,  shady  places, 
the  grotesque  Rex  Begonias,  Marautas,  Dracenas, 
Tradescantias,  etc.,  would  be  effective.  Cobaea  scandens 
is  a  climber  of  special  value  for  such  places.  By  using 
good  taste  in  the  arrangement  of  the  surface,  rocks, 
plants,  and  trees,  and  avoiding  every  thing  like  stiffness 


224  OKNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

and  formality  in  the  work,  there  is  no  reason  why  such 
rockeries  should  not  prove  very  pleasing  in  any  garden 
that  can  accommodate  them. 

An  arch  constructed  of  rough  stones,  and  covered  with 
climbers,  is  represented  by  figure  71.  This  makes  an  ap- 
propriate entrance  to  a  rock-garden,  or  it  may  be  intro- 
duced independently  as  an  entrance  to  other  divisions  of 
the  grounds.  Even  small  lots  will  allow  such  an  object  to 
be  brought  in  very  fitly.  This  may  be,  because  there  are 
but  few  steps  of  transition  between  rocks,  as  they  come 


71.— AN  ABCHWAT  OF  BOCKWOBK. 

from  nature,  and  as  they  are  used  in  buildings.  At  any 
rate,  I  have  observed  that  we  may  have,  even  in  a  small 
and  highly  finished  garden,  a  bit  of  some  such  pictur- 
esque roughness,  where  other  kinds  of  natural  material 
used  to  a  marked  extent  would  seem  out  of  place. 

Kock  Grottos  often  prove  interesting  features  in  gar- 
dens. They  need  not  necessarily  be  dark,  damp,  or  un- 
healthy, and  may,  from  the  very  nature  of  the  material, 
and  the  manner  of  their  construction,  be  made  comforta- 
ble places  in  the  heat  of  summer.  Figures  72  to  74  give 
a  ground  outline,  a  cross  section  and  a  stairway  of  a  sim- 
ple form  of  Grotto.  There  are  in  this  two  places  of  en- 
trance and  exit  on  the  level  of  the  floor,  and  stairs  leading 
from  the  interior  to  the  summit,  thus  providing  for  free 


KOCKWOBK.  225 

circulation  of  air.     In  the  one  figured  there  is  a  bubbling 
spring  of  water,  giving  rise  to  a  lively  rill  which  crosses 


Fig.  72.-  GROUHD  OUTLINE  OF   ARTIFICIAL  GROTTO— P,  P,  REPRESENT 
BOCK  PILLARS. 

the  floor,  and  an  ample  stone  seat.  There  is  a  large  field 
for  variety  and  for  displaying  taste  and  knowledge  of 
building  in  the  construction  of  rock  work  of  this  kind. 


Fig.  73. — OBOSS-SECTION  OF   ARTIFICIAL 
GBOTTO  ABOVE,  AT  CROSS  LINE  A. 


Fi£.  74.— STAIRWAY  TO  AKTI- 
FICIAL  GROTTO. 


In  the  Paris  public  gardens  one  may  see  that  the  con- 
struction of  Grottos  may  amount  to  quite  an  art.     Great 


226  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

skill  is  brought  to  bear  in  imitating  natural  grottos, 
even  to  the  introduction  of  imposing  artificial  stalactites 
and  stalagmites,  also  in  introducing  cascades  and  other 
forms  of  water  in  connection  with  them. 

The  imitation  of  castles  or  their  ruins,  and  draping 
them  with  climbers,  is  sometimes  engaged  in  with  favor- 
able results.  But  caution  should  be  observed  as  regards 
the  materials,  designs,  and  location  of  such  work,  else  it 
may  prove  a  blemish  rather  than  an  ornament  in  the 
grounds. 

It  is  elsewhere  suggested  that  a  large  boulder  may  be 
converted  into  an  ornamental  feature  by  draping  it  with 


Fig.  75. — BRIDGE  OF  BOCKS. 

the  Virginia  Creeper  or  other  climber.  There  is  propriety 
in  introducing  some  of  these  sparingly,  with  or  without 
the  drapery  of  foliage,  into  gardens,  especially  such  as 
are  laid  out  in  the  natural  style.  Placed  in  groups  in 
a  corner  of  a  plat,  or  at  the  side  of  knolls,  or  singly  at 
junctions,  or  along  the  sideS  of  walks  and  drives,  the 
effect  of  these  is  generally  good. 

Sometimes  shapely  stones,  uniform  in  size,  may  be 
used  as  edgings  to  walks  or  flower  beds  throughout  a 
place.  Such  should  be  large  enough  to  admit  of  sinking 
them  part  way  into  the  ground,  so  that  they  will  not 
easily  become  displaced,  yet  they  should  not  be  so  large 
as  to  be  very  conspicuous. 

Figure  75  represents  a  bridge  of  rocks  for  private  or 


WATER   IN   ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING.  2S7 

public  grounds,  either  crossing  over  water,  or  another 
walk  on  a  lower  level  as  through  a  gnlly.  With  the  right 
materials  at  hand,  such  a  bridge  is  easily  laid  up  and 
quite  sure  to  look  well. 

Very  fair  substitutes  for  natural  rocks  in  rockwork 
are  the  odd  shaped  clinkers  that  come  from  furnaces, 
and  the  distorted  burned  bricks  from  kilns,  which  are 
often  cemented  together  in  masses.  Some  of  these  can 
be  selected  which,  at  a  little  distance,  can  not  be  distin- 
guished from  rocks. 

In  introducing  rockwork  into  the  garden,  let  every- 
thing like  overdoing  be  guarded  against.  Where  one 
meets  with  success  beyond  expectations  in  work  of 
this  kind,  enthusiasm  is  usually  aroused,  and  enthusiasm 
here,  if  it  should  blind  the  eye  of  correct  taste  and  dis- 
cretion is  liable  to  lead  to  very  objectionable  excesses. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 
WATER  IN  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

In  many  of  the  most  attractive  natural  landscapes 
water  holds  a  place  of  high  importance,  and  this  suggests 
its  value  in  ornamental  gardening.  As  a  rule,  unless  it 
is  supplied  naturally,  water  effects  produced  in  gardens 
prove  somewhat  costly,  hence  it  will  be  only  now  and 
then  employed,  except  perhaps  in  the  shape  of  a  foun- 
tain, tiny  rill  or  lakelet.  But  where  a  natural  rill,  creek, 
or  lake  exists,  it  should  be  prized  and  so  treated  as  to 
make  the  most  of  it. 

A  large  stream  or  body  of  water  may  not  be  manage- 
able in  itself  as  a  garden  feature,  but  trees  and  shrubs 
can  usually  be  introduced  between  the  frequented  parts 
of  a  garden  bordering  on  the  water,  in  such  a  manner  as 


228  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

to  afford  most  delightful  glirapes  of  it.  No  large  expanse 
of  water  is  as  pleasing  if  viewed  all  at  once,  as  when  seen  by 
parts  through  openings  between  woody  clumps.  Where 
they  can  be  used,  tastefully  built  boat  houses,  landings, 
and  bridges  are  pleasing  features. 

Small,  natural  lakes  may  sometimes  be  varied  in  out- 
line to  advantage.  Figure  76  shows  how  a  lakelet,  rep- 
resented by  the  dotted  lines,  which  could  be  viewed 
at  a  glance  in  every  part,  was  so  varied  by  grading  and 
planting  as  to  be  more  ornamental,  and  to  appear  larger, 
because  so  arranged  that  all  parts 
are  never  seen  from  any  one 
point,  thus  conveying  the  idea 
of  indefinite  extent.  In  such 
work,  regard  should  be  paid  to 
having  the  general  outline  simple 
rather  than  otherwise.  Theprin- 
Fig.76.-LAKELET  IMPROVED.  dple  of  ^^  concealment  is 

an  important  one  in  managing  all  small  bodies  of  water 
if  we  would  make  the  most  of  them. 

Islands  add  a  pleasing  variety  to  water  scenery  if 
happily  placed.  Usually  they  are  better  for  being  not 
far  from  the  shore,  to  maintain  an  appearance  of  some 
connection  with  the  main-land.  They  should  be  abun- 
dantly clothed  with  trees  and  shrubs.  For  every  pur- 
pose of  this  kind,  the  Laurel-leaved  and  other  free-grow- 
ing Willows  possess  great  value.  Planted  at  the  water's 
edge,  their  shrubby  forms  soon  enlarge,  and  hanging  in 
the  water  on  one  side,  resting  on  the  land  on  the  other, 
they  break  the  regular  outline  of  the  water  delightfully. 

Where  a  good  living  rill  is  found  in  gardens,  or  can  be 
introduced,  there  need  be  little  lack  of  the  attractiveness 
water  is  susceptible  of  imparting.  A  lake  may  be  formed 
by  excavation  or  by  damming,  or  a  series  of  these  may  be 
made,  or  the  course  of  the  stream  maybe  intercepted  with 
rocks  and  earth,  to  produce  small  musical  cascades  or 


WATER   IN   ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


229 


rapids,  as  shown  in  figure  77,  provided  there  is  a  very 
slight  fall  in  the  land;  or  tiie  water  may  be  divided 
to  meet  again  further  on  to  form  islets.  Usually  with 
a  certain  quantity  of  water  at  command,  there  is  no 
more  advantageous  use  to  which  it  can  bo  put  for  or- 
nament than  this  of  rills.  Those  European  gardens,  ^in 
which  vast  sums  of  money  have  been  expended  in  con- 
structing complicated  fountains  and  water  works,  are 
poor  examples  to  be  followed  in  the  use  of  water  in  gar- 


.  77.— A  NATURAL  RILL  IMPROVED. 


dens;  for  usually,  if,  instead,  one-fourth  of  the  water  and 
one-tenth  of  the  money  had  been  employed  in  these  in 
making  rills,  lakelets,  wateifalls,  etc.,  of  natural  appear- 
ance, the  effects  would  have  been  far  better. 

One  thing  to  be  guarded  against  in  the  production  of 
effects  with  artificial  water,  or,  indeed,  in  artificial  ar- 
rangements of  rocks,  trees,  etc.,  is  the  investing  of  the 
work  with  an  air  of  stiffness  and  a  studied  appearance  so 
opposite  to  nature  in  her  most  pleasing  moods.  This 
defect  is  not  unfrequently  apparent  in  such  compositions, 
and  sometimes  so  bad  that  the  general  appearance  of  the 
grounds  would  have  been  better  with  no  attempt  what- 
ever at  ornamentation  of  the  kind.  A  safe  guide  in  this 


230  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

kind  of  work  is  to  be  found  in  fine  natural  scenes, 
and  then,  of  course,  experience,  coupled  with  good  taste 
on  the  part  of  the  designer. 

Unless  adjacent  grounds  are  elevated  and  hilly,  the 
banks  of  lakes  and  streams  should  not  generally  be 
steep  and  regular.  Usually  in  nature,  the  land  meets  the 
water  gradually,  unless  in  the  case  of  streams,  the  sides 
of  which  are  cut  down  by  the  wearing  of  the  water,  or 
where  they  run  through  gulleys  or  along  hill  sides.  If 
walks  are  to  be  carriod  along  the  banks,  they  should  not, 
as  a  rule,  run  close  to  the  edge  for  long  distances,  but  a 
strip  of  grass,  however  narrow  in  places,  and  then  at 
some  points  clumps  of  trees  and  plants  should  be  between 
them.  Occasionally  the  walks  may  run  down  to  the 
water  and  be  widened  into  a  beach  for  some  distance  and 
return  again.  Along  winding  rills,  through  gulleys, 
where  the  walks  are  carried  along  steep  slopes,  railings 
are  sometimes  needed  and  perhaps  bridges  now  and  then 
for  crossing  the  stream.  Large  rocks  set  in  the  water  to 
project  boldly  above  the  surface  are  appropriate  in  water 
scenery.  Trees  and  shrubs  in  clumps,  extending  quite 
down  to  the  water's  edge  in  places,  help  greatly  to  pro- 
duce an  appearance  of  natural  grace  and  freedom. 

While  no  class  of  trees  are  more  appropriate  for  en- 
hancing water  effects  than  Weeping  and  other  Willows, 
still  it  is  frequently  demonstrated  in  the  best  landscape 
gardening,  that  no  trees  are  more  useful  for  planting  with 
the  Willows  than  the  Poplars  and  other  tapering  kinds — 
trees  the  least  likely  to  be  thought  of  by  many  planters 
for  such  situations.  In  marked  contrast,  as  such  erect 
trees  are  with  the  weepers,  they  give  strength  to  them, 
and  create  an  improved  effect  throughout. 

Water  is  often  used  in  ornamental  gardens  in  fountains 
and  basins.  By  means  of  these,  the  refreshing  beauty 
and  music  of  moving  water  may  be  secured  with  quanti- 
ties so  limited,  that  the  use  of  the  element  in  any  other 


HEDGES  AND    CLIPPED   TREES.  231 

manner  would  be  impracticable.  The  beauty  of  a  foun- 
tain depends  largely  upon  having  a  sufficient  water  sup- 
ply to  make  the  streams  strong  and  animated,  and  also 
upon  its  style  and  setting.  The  best  fountain  designs 
and  figures  can  never  make  up  for  inadequate  water  sup- 
ply. On  the  other  hand,  a  fountain  with  no  figure,  and 
consisting  only  of  one  or  more  strong  streams  from  noz- 
zles placed  at  the  surface  of  the  water  is  usually  very 
satisfactory. 

Both  stone  and  iron  basins  are  used  for  fountains,  but 
so  far  as  appearances  go,  the  former  consisting  of  a  cut 
stone  coping,  with  a  well  constructed  cement  bottom,  is 
to  be  perferred. 

Where  the  water  of  a  garden  is  suitable  for  fish  and 
water  fowl,  it  is  desirable  to  introduce  some  of  these  for 
ornament.  Water  fowls  soil  a  garden  to  some  extent, 
on  which  account,  if  for  no  other,  they  must  not  be  in- 
troduced too  freely.  Small  garden  ponds  converted  into 
washing  pools  for  poultry  are  an  abomination,  and  yet 
they  may  sometimes  be  met  with  looking  quite  as  bad  as 
this.  The  subject  of  Aquatic  and  Bog  Plants  is  somewhat 
discussed  in  Parts  II  and  IV. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 
HEDGES  AND  CLIPPED  TREES. 

That  peculiarity  of  some  trees  which  allows  of  their 
being  closely  clipped  with  shears,  and  by  this  means  kept 
compact  and  dense,  when  they  would  naturally  reach  a 
large  size,  is  turned  to  account  in  the  garden,  particularly 
in  making  hedges.  About  all  those  known  as  hedge 
plants  are  of  this  nature. 

Hedges,  whether  introduced  for  marking  divisions,  or 


233 


ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


merely  for  ornament,  are,  when  in  good  condition,  and 
it  is  easy  to  have  them  so,  very  useful  for  increasing 
garden  variety  and  effectiveness.  Their  forms  may  be 
varied  considerably,  and  in  this  way  alone  there  is  a 
chance  for  a  good  deal  of  pleasing  variety. 

Figure  78  shows  a  number  of  forms  of  both  plain  and 
ornamental  hedges,  including  two  passage  ways  through 
them.  The  Norway  Spruce  and  Hemlock,  two  of  our 


Fig.  78.— VARIOUS  FORMS  OF  HEDGES. 

most  reliable  and  tractable  hedge  plants,  and  the  Beech, 
Hornbeam,  and  Holly,  are  suitable  for  the  forms  A ,  D,  H, 
I.  Arbor  Vitge,  Tree  Box,  Privets,  Osage  Orange,  Honey 
Locust,  Japan  Quince,  and  other  shrubs  may  be  trimmed 
into  forms  B,  C,  and  E.  Entrances  like  F  and  G  can  be 
worked  out  of  any  of  the  taller  growing  hedge  plants. 
Edgings  to  walks,  borders,  and  clumps  of  plants  and 
shrubs  may  be  made  of  the  Dwarf  Box,  Tom  Thumb 
Arbor  Titae,  and  Dwarf  Spruce  with  good  effect. 

The  distance  apart  for  setting  hedge  plants,  varies  ac- 
cording to  the  size  intended  to  be  reached.     For  exam- 


HEDGES  AND  CLIPPED  TREES.  233 

pie,  if  a  fine,  low  Norway  Spruce  hedge  is  designed  to 
be  kept  at  three  or  four  feet  in  hight,  with  perhaps  five 
feet  in  view  ultimately,  the  plants  may  be  put  eighteen 
or  twenty  inches  apart,  but  if  a  screen,  twelve  or  fifteen 
feet  high  is  desired,  they  should  not  be  closer  than  four 
feet,  and  six  feet  would  be  better.  In  cases  like  this  they 
may  be  planted  twice  or  three  times  as  close  at  the  start, 
to  make  a  full  row,  and  then  remove  those  between  as  the 
others  require  the  space.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  from 
twelve  to  fourteen  inches  apart  is  a  suitable  distance  for 
the  majority  of  kinds  where  the  hedge  is  to  be  low, 
with  an  increase  to  twice  this  distance  for  high  hedges 
or  screens. 

The  objection  to  hedges,  that  they  cannot  be  crossed 
even  when  it  is  desirable  to  do  so,  at  other  places  than 


Fig.  79.— STILE  FOB  HEDGES. 

gates,  may  be  overcome  by  the  use  of  a  sdle,  as  shown 
in  figure  79. 

Kegarding  clipped  forms  of  trees,  we  hold  in  as  great 
abhorrence  as  any  one,  the  ludicrous  extent  to  which 
these  have  been  used  in  old-time  gardening,  espec- 
ially in  Europe,  and  which  even  to-day  prevails  in  some 
places  abroad.  Still,  in  the  same  way  as  the  formal  ter- 
race and  slope,  geometrical  flower-beds,  etc.,  may  some- 
times fit  in  the  garden,  as  minor  features  of  embellish- 
ment, so  some  clipped  trees  may  properly  be  admitted. 
A  number  of  acres  closely  covered  with  every  conceiva- 


234  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

ble  pattern  of  these,  such  as  can  be  seen  in  some  old 
European  places,  may  well  fill  us  with  disgust,  but  it  does 
not  follow  that  a  few  perfect  globes,  pyramids,  urns,  or 
trees  in  other  shapes,  well  relieved  by  grass,  in  some  parts 
of  our  gardens,  would  not  afford  genuine  pleasure,  or 
even  that  a  larger  number  may  not  sometimes  be  em- 
ployed with  tasteful  effect. 

The  charming  garden  of  Mr.  Hunnewell,  Wellesley, 
Mass.,  owes  its  fame  to  no  one  thing,  more  than  to  an 
elaborate  Italian  garden  at  the  head  of  a  lake,  which  in 
excellent  taste  is  made  to  support  numerous  trees  clipped 
into  pleasing  forms.  But  here,  let  it  be  observed,  that 
while  the  Italian  garden  is  quite  extensive  itself,  the 
grounds,  as  a  whole,  are  so  large  and  so  generally  con- 
spicious  is  the  natural  style  of  gardening  over  extensive 
areas,  that  after  all  this  fanciful  feature  is  but  a  minor 
attraction  of  the  place,  and  as  such,  certainly  tends  to 
add  greatly  to  the  charms  of  this  private  park. 

In  figure  80  a  number  of  forms  of  clipped  trees  are 
given.  The  globular  form  A,  is  adapted  to  a  number 
of  shrubs  such  as  Deutzia,  Japan  Quince,  Dwarf  Mock 
Orange,  and  othei  deciduous  kinds,  and  Box,  Dwarf 
Pines,  Spruces,  and  Arbor  Vitae,  in  evergreens.  Forms 
B,  D,  H,  J,  may  be  applied  to  the  common  Hemlock, 
American  or  Siberian  Arbor  Vitae.  E,  D,  H,  or  any  other 
forms  the  beauty  of  which  is  nothing,  unless  attention 
is  given  to  nicely  shaping  them,  may  be  produced  most 
perfectly  from  the  Tree  Box.  The  White  Pine  and  Nor- 
way Spruce  are  well  adapted  to  the  styles  shown  in  F  and 
/,  and  the  last  named  for  C,  G,  K,  and  either  this,  Hem- 
lock or  Arbor  Vitae  for  the  arbor  7/. 

In  producing  forms  like  the  arbor  L,  and  archway  J, 
after  the  tracs  have  become  well  established  in  their  places, 
a  stay  rod  of  iron  or  wood  is  required  at  a  suitable  hight 
against  which  to  tie  the  bended  tops  and  branches,  as 
necessary  daring  the  first  stages  of  the  work. 


HEDGES   AND   CLIPPED  TREES. 


235 


The  most  suitable  place  for  some  clipped  trees  in 
gardens  is  in  the  vicinity  of  any  portion  devoted  to 
the  formal  styles  of  planting.  A  pair  of  these  on  the 
sides  of  the  walk  near  the  entrance  gate,  or  at  the 
crossing  of  walks  at  right  angles,  or  one  placed  as  a 


Fig.  80. — FORMS   IN  WHICH  TREES  MAY  BB   OUPPKB. 

central  or  terminal  object  of  a  walk  or  drive,  or  a  few 
along  the  sides  of  these,  and  on  terraces,  may  be  very 
ornamental,  provided  always  they  are  well  sustained  by 
grass  or  by  other  prominent  features.  Yet  it  is  proper  to 
recommend  great  caution  against  introducing  them  too 
freely,  for  unquestionably  it  is  easy  to  overdo  the  matter. 


236  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 
GARDEN  STRUCTURES. 

Whatever  the  size  or  nature  of  a  garden,  there  is  al- 
most always  need  of  some  kind  of  architectural  struc- 
tures besides  the  main  buildings,  for  adding  to  its 
comfort,  security,  and  interest.  Among  these  are  fences, 
walls,  railings,  copings,  seats,  arbors,  shelters,  conserva- 
tories, lodges,  tool  houses,  bird  and  animal  houses,  vases, 
trellises,  fountains,  statuary,  terrace  walls,  sun  dials, 
swings,  bridges,  boat  houses,  and  sometimes  aqueducts, 
viaducts,  and  in  public  parks,  offices,  museums,  refecto- 
ries, amusement  halls,  etc. 

The  guiding  principles  to  the  introduction  of  these 
should  be,  first  their  apparent  need  ;  second  their  adap- 
tiveness  to  the  purpose  and  place  in  view  ;  third,  appear- 
ance of  stability  and  tasteful  design,  and  lastly,  due  re- 
gard to  a  right  balance  of  the  features  of  the  garden,  and 
especially  between  made  and  natural  ones,  to  see  that  the 
former,  which  may  be  introduced  chiefly  for  ornament, 
are  in  a  sense  subordinate  to  the  latter. 

As  to  fences,  walls,  etc.,  it  is  apparent  that  gardens, 
and  especially  cemeteries,  are  more  beautiful  for  exclud- 
ing these  from  the  scene.  Usually  the  less  we  can  have 
of  them  the  better  for  pure  garden  effect,  to  say  nothing 
of  expense  saved  in  their  construction.  Still  Ave  cannot 
get  along  entirely  without  them. 

Where  a  guard  is  needed  along  streets  and  boundaries, 
the  light  ornamental  iron  fences  now  manufactured  arc 
excellent  and  interrupt  the  view  but  little.  For  many 
places  hedges  are  very  suitable  instead  of  ordinary  fences 
along  the  street,  but  if  there  would  be  an  objection  to  a 
hedge  in  front  of  the  house  on  account  of  its  density,  then 
just  here  an  iron  or  other  fence  might  take  its  place. 


GABDEN   STRUCTURES.  237 

When  wooden  picket  fences  are  used,  as  they  common- 
ly are,  the  lighter  and  more  simple  they  are  in  design, 
the  better  their  appearance.  It  is  in  poor  taste  to  spend 
money  on  excessive  ornamentation  of  these  or  any  other 
kind  of  common  fences  of  wood  or  iron  i$i  the  manner 
often  seen. 

There  might  be  much  to  recommend  on  the  score  of 
fine  garden  effect,  in  the  custom  common  in  some  cities, 
of  having  no  front  fences  even  on  large  grounds.  But 
their  absence  never  allows  the  owner  who  thinks  much 
of  his  garden  surroundings,  containing  perhaps  rare  and 
prized  specimens,  to  feel  secure  against  intrusions  from 
quadrupeds,  children,  etc.  I  observe  that  while  a  few  years 
ago  this  custom  seemed  destined  to  prevail  generally,  now 
nearly  all  the  best  places  of  large  size  have  some  kind 
of  fence  or  guard  put  up  along  the  street. 

Hurdle  fences,  made  of  light  wrought  iron  posts  and 
bars,  as  often  seen  in  the  gardens  of  the  British  Isles,  can  at 


Fig.  81.—  COPING  AND  ENTRANCE  NEXT  TO  SIDEWALK. 

times  be  advantageously  used  in  parks  and  large  grounds. 
Instead  of  mowing  all  parts,  large  plats  some  distance 
from  the  house  or  prominent  drives,  may  be  surrounded 
with  these  and  cattle  and  sheep  be  allowed  to  pasture 
within.  By  this  course,  direct  use  may  be  had  of  some 
parts  of  the  grounds  without  the  expense  of  mowing,  and 
yet,  being  closely  cropped  by  the  animals,  these  areas  may 
have  the  same  appearance  as  the  mowed  parts.  The  in- 
troduction of  live  stock  in  this  way,  engaged  in  feeding 
or  resting,  adds  much  to  the  interest  and  effect  in  large 


238 


ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


grounds.  The  hurdles  may  be  so  lightly  constructed 
and  yet  strong,  as  to  escape  notice  a  short  distance 
away.  Where  there- are  groups  of  trees  or  shruhs  within 
the  pastured  plats,  a  line  of  hurdles  may  be  used  to  en- 
close them,  for  protection  from  the  animals.  Wire  fences 
can  also  be  used  for  such  purposes. 

A  simple  stone  coping,  as  shown  in  figure  81,  is  perhaps 
the  best  substitute  for  a  street  fence  where  the  latter  is 
not  desired.  Such  a  coping  scarcely  interferes  with  the 
garden  effect,  serves  to  mark  the  boundary  and  also 
to  turn  off  intruders,  be  they  brutes  or  persons.  A  very 


Fig.  82.— WALL  OF  STONE,   AND  BED  ATSD  YELLOW  BRICK. 

neat  street  guard  may  be  made  by  running  a  low  open 
iron  fence  along  the  top  of  a  coping,  like  that  illustrated 
in  figure  81,  or  on  a  low  brick  wall  one  to  two  feet  high. 

In  grounds  it  is  sometimes  desirable  to  separate  the 
kitchen-yard  or  garden,  or  the  cow-yard  from  other 
parts,  by  a  close  wall  or  fence ;  or  sometimes  these  are 
needed  for  shutting  out  unpleasant  views  on  rear  streets. 
Where  a  hedge  for  any  reason  is  inappropriate,  walls  of 
brick  or  stone,  or  of  both,  may  be  built,  or  if  something 
cheaper  is  preferred,  a  fence  can  be  erected  of  boards, 
either  rough  or  planed. 

Figure  82  shows  a  wall  of  brick  in  two  colors,  and 
stone,  and  figure  83  a  tight  board  fence,  made  of  boards 


GARDEN   STRUCTURES.  239 

four  to  eight  inches  wide,  lapped  on  each  other  as  shown 
in  the  engraving.  By  planting  Virginia  Creepers, 
Wistarias  or  other  climbers,  or  training  fruit  vines  and 


Fig.  83. — TIGHT  BOAKD  FENCE,   TOP  VIEW. 

trees   against  such  walls,   the   blankness  which  would 
otherwise  prevail  is  delightfully  obviated. 

Balustrades  and  railings  may  be  introduced  at  the 
head  of  a  terrace  slope,  in  situations  where  such  archi- 
tectural decorations  are  warranted  by  proximity  to  the 
house,  or  by  the  general  plan  of  the  place. 

SEATS,    ARBORS,    AND   SHELTERS. 

Seats,  arbors,  and  shelters  in  pleasure  grounds,  are  for 
both  comfort  and  beauty,  and  to  serve  these  ends  should 


Fig.  84.— OABDEN  SEAT  SHADED  BY  CLIMBERS. 

be  the  first  consideration  in  selecting  them.  Figure  84 
shows  a  garden  seat  which  is  shaded  by  an  arch  covered 
with  climbers.  For  a  neat,  cheap,  and  strong  garden 
seat,  what  is  called  the  "  Central  Park  Settee,"  or  some 


240  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

variation  of  it,  made  of  two  end  frames  of  iron  with  ash 
slats  for  bottom  and  back,  will  answer  well  for  almost  any 
place.  Eustic  chairs  and  settees  are  very  suitable  for  the 
garden.  In  selecting  these,  regard  should  be  had  to 
their  being  comfortable  as  seats  and  well  made,  for 
frequently  they  are  not  so;  one  of  the  great  objec- 
tions to  every  kind  of  rustic  furniture,  is  the  lack  of  dura- 
bility, especially  when  it  is  carelessly  put  together. 

Although  expensive,  perhaps  the  most  beautiful,  cer- 
tainly the  most  durable  material  for  garden  seats,  is 
stone,  for  one  of  which  figure  85  gives  a  good  design. 
They  may  be  made  curving  or  straight,  and  of  a 
length  to  suit  the  place  to  be  occupied. 

A  wooden  seat,  if  well  proportioned,  neatly  made,  and 
kept  thoroughly  painted  or  oiled,  answers  very  well  for 


Fi<?.  86.  WOODEN 


FOLDING   SEAT, 
Fig.  85.— A  GARDEN  SEAT  OP  STONE  OR  MARBLE.  END  SECTION. 

the  garden.  It  may  be  made  as  shown  by  figure  86,  with 
two  pieces  in  the  seat,  the  front  half  secured  to  the  risers, 
and  the  back  half  so  hinged  that  it  can  be  turned  over 
the  front  one,  as  the  dotted  lines  indicate ;  with  this 
there  may  always  be  a  dry  bench,  unsoiled  by  birds  and 
quadrupeds.  Any  good  house- joiner  could  make  such  a 
seat  in  a  short  time.  The  corners  of  the  hinges  that 
project  above  the  surface  of  the  seat  should  be  rounded 
off  with  a  file.  A  four-inch  strip  should  be  nailed  on 
the  back  half  of  the  bottom,  as  shown  in  the  engraving. 


GARDEN   STRUCTURES.  241 

For  a  structure  to  afford  shade,  there  can  be  nothing 
more  appropriate,  in  most  places,  than  a  simple  skeleton 
arbor,  as  shown  in  figure  44,  covered  with  a  heavy  mass 
of  some  rapid  growing  climber  like  Virginia  Creeper, 
Trumpet-vine,  etc.  If  the  pieces  comprising  the  struc- 
ture are  put  together  with  a  view  to  replacing  any  when 


Fig.  87.— A  RUSTIC   SUMMER-HOUSE. 

they  begin  to  decay,  by  taking  out  the  old  and  slipping 
in  new  ones,  they  may  be  kept  up  for  an  indefinite  time. 
Climbers  however,  that  twine  tightly  around  supports, 
like  the  Bitter  Sweet,  would  not  allow  this  plan  to  be 
carried  out,  but  many  others  will. 

There  are  instances  where  something  more  pretentious 
than  the  skeleton  arbor  is  wanted,  such  as  a  rustic  arbor ; 
figure  87,  which  represents  a  type  of  garden  architecture 
much  liked  when  well  made.  In  this  six-sided  urbor, 
three  of  the  sides  at  the  back  are  closed,  and  the  interior 
surface  of  these  as  well  as  of  the  ceiling  is  covered  with 
11 


242  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

small,  straight  branches  an  inch  or  so  in  diameter,  nearly 
uniform  in  appearance,  arranged  obliquely,  as  shown  in 
the  engraving.  The  outside  of  these  parts  is  covered 
with  sections  of  poles  about  three  inches  through  or 
more,  split  in  halves,  and  ai'ranged  with  the  bark  outwards, 
obliquely  or  otherwise  to  suit  the  taste.  One  of  the 
front  sides  affords  entrance,  and  two  others  are  about  half 
open.  The  roof,  in  this  instance,  is  heavily  thatched 
with  straw,  which  not  only  affords  perfect  protection  to 
the  structure,  but  being  nine  to  twelve  inches  thick,  it 
serves  to  render  the  arbor  cool  under  the  rays  of  a  mid- 
summer sun.  A  seat  is  arranged  against  five  sides  of  the 
interior.  Many  variations  from  this  style,  both  as  re- 
gards material  and  form,  will  suggest  themselves  to  the 
ingenious. 


Bridges  across  streams  or  ravines,  afford  a  fine  field 
for  the   display  of  taste  and  ingenuity  as  to  designs. 


Fig.  88. — RUSTIC  BRIDGE. 

Those  of  rustic  work  are  very  appropriate,  and  where 
taste  is  used  in  the  selection  and  combination  of  ma- 
terials, they  are  peculiarly  effective.  Figure  88  shows  a 
bridge  of  this  style.  This  being  raised  in  the  centre, 
not  only  allows  boats  to  pass  underneath  where  the  banks 


GARDEN   STRUCTURES.  243 

are  somewhat  low,  but  it  gives  a  commanding  appearance 
to  the  structure,  and  affords  a  good  out-look  over  the 
grounds.  The  elevated  portion  may  be  furnished  with 
seats,  and  even  converted  into  an  arbor  by  roofing  it,  as 
can  easily  be  done  by  carrying  the  posts  of  the  upper 
level  to  about  eight  feet  high,  to  support  the  roof. 

BIRD    HOUSES   AND   OTHER   SHELTERS. 

The  three  bird  houses  represented  in  figure  89,  are  of 
rustic  material,  and  suitable  for  placing  on  poles  or  in 
trees.  The  left  hand  one  consists  of  a  section  of  a  tree 
trunk,  dug  or  burned  out,  and  capped  with  a  roof  turned 
in  a  lathe  and  painted.  The  centre  one  is  made  of  bark- 


Fig.  89.— RUSTIC  BIBD  HOUSES. 

covered  slabs.  Houses  after  either  of  these  two  patterns, 
maybe  large  enough  to  accommodate  two  or  more  families, 
by  partitioning  them  off  into  apartments,  with  an  en- 
trance to  each.  The  right  hand  cut  shows  a  cluster  of 
four  houses,  made  of  sections  of  branches.  These  are 
fitted  up  to  accommodate  occupants,  by  making  a  cavity 
in  the  side  large  enough  for  the  nest,  and  to  get  in  and 
out;  afterwards  replacing  a  shell  of  bark  over  the  cavity 
to  close  it,  and  boring  a  hole  from  the  end  of  the  block 
for  a  door.  In  mounting  these,  the  sides  that  are  cut 
into  should  be  placed  downwards,  to  prevent  water  from 
entering.  Nothing  will  better  encourage  the  feathery 
songsters  to  be  at  home  in  the  garden,  than  good  houses 
like  these  and  others  they  may  suggest. 


244  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

Where  water  fowl,  deer,  and  other  quadrupeds  are  in- 
troduced, the  shelters  for  these  look  well  constructed  of 
rustic  material.  Rustic  vases,  window  boxes,  trellises, 
etc.,  are  also  desirable  for  ornament  in  certain  places. 
There  are  a  number  of  manufacturers  of  and  dealers  in 
rustic  work  in  the  country,  who  keep  a  regular  stock  of 
these  and  similar  articles  on  hand.  Every  thing  like 
overdoing  in  the  introduction  of  rustic  articles  in  the 
garden  should  be  carefully  avoided. 

BOAT   HOUSES. 

Where  the  body  of  water  in  a  garden  is  large  enough 
and  sufficiently  deep  for  boats,  these  are  generally  intro- 


«  Fig.  90. — DESIGN  FOB  A  BOAT  HOUSE. 

duced.  Figure  90  shows  a  boat  house  suitable  for  a  lake 
or  river  side  in  a  private  garden,  and  may  be  built  of  either 
brick,  stone,  or  wood.  Such  a  structure  affords  shelter  to 
the  boats,  a  place  for  getting  in  and  out  of  them,  and  in 
the  above  design,  an  observatory-room  and  veranda  over 
the  water.  The  upper  floor  is  fitted  for  comfort  by  heat- 
ing it  with  a  stove,  to  be  used  as  a  look-out  in  the  skat- 
ing season. 


GARDEN   STRUCTURES. 


245 


PLANT  HOUSES  AND   CONSERVATORIES. 

The  general  desire  to  render  our  homes  beautiful  by 
the  help  of  tender  plants  and  cut  flowers,  makes  one  more 
or  less  dependent  upon  plant  houses  suited  for  their  cul- 
ture. If  plants  are  not  grown  on  the  place,  they  are  bought 
of  the  florists,  and  this  is  generally  expensive,  if  a  good 
showing  is  wanted.  A  plant  conservatory  in  connection 
with  the  garden  and  home,  may  become,  at  a  reasonable 
cost,a  source  of  much  beauty  and  pleasure,as  well  as  profit 
the  entire  year  through.  The  common  bright  flowers 


Fig.  91. — DETACHED  CONSERVATORY  IN  GOTHIC  STYLE,  WITH  PLAN. 

may  be  had  freely,  and  the  rare  exotics  may  also  be  grown 
for  adorning  the  house  in  winter  as  well  as  the  garden  in 
summer.  In  addition  to  growing  plants  and  flowers, 
glass  structures  possess  an  ornamental  character  of  their 
own,  as  adjuncts  of  a  house  and  garden,  that  make  them 
very  desirable.  It  has  been  well  said  :  "  Glass  houses 
are  like  luminaries  in  pleasure  grounds,  they  spread  a 
sunshiny  gladness  over  all  the  other  improvements,  and 
make  them  look  more  delightful." 

A  detached  conservatory  in  the  gothic  style  is  shown  in 


246  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

figure  91,  with  also  the  ground  plan.  Such  a  conservatory 
might  be  sufficiently  large  to  meet  almost  every  demand 
of  a  complete  plant  house  for  a  moderate  sized  garden. 
A  recommendation  for  this  particular  style  is,  that  al- 
though exceedingly  handsome,  all  the  glass  surfaces  are 
straight.  It  would  be  difficult  to  give  such  or  a  similar 
structure  a  place  in  any  grounds  large  enough  to  properly 
hold  it,  and  not  have  it  contribute  effectively  to  the  gen- 
eral adornment.  For  small  grounds,  other  conservatories 


Fig.  92. — SMALL,  CHEAP,  LEAN-TO  GREEN -HOUSE. 

quite  as  pleasing  in  design  as  this,  may  be  planned,  but 
smaller  and  either  detached  like  this,  or  connected  with 
the  house. 

Figure  92  shows  a  small,  cheap,  lean-to  green-house, 
which  can  be  placed  in  almost  any  part  of  the  grounds 
against  a  building.  This  is  designed  to  meet  the  wants 
of  those  who  like  to  have  some  means  for  growing  plants, 
without  any  great  outlay  in  the  first  cost,  or  who  cannot 
readily  so  combine  one  with  the  house  as  to  form  a  feature 
of  its  design.  All  conservatories  attached  to  buildings 
should  command  a  sheltered  and  sunny  position. 

Some  of  the  other  architectural  objects  named  in  the 


PLANS   OF   PEIVATE   GROUNDS.  247 

beginning  of  this  chapter,  I  pass  by  without  giving  them 
special  attention.  Some  are  articles  that  are  purchasable, 
such  as  vases,  statuary,  sun  dials,  and  the  like,  others 
are  not  in  sufficient  general  demand  to  require  space 
here,  and  when  wanted,  the  landscape  and  building 
architect  will  be  able  to  furnish  suitable  designs.  On 
painting  garden  architecture  see  Part  IV. 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 

PLANS   OF   PEIVATE   GROUNDS. 

The  materials  used  in,  and  principles  governing  orna- 
mental garden-making,  are  mainly  the  same  for  every 
place,  but  different  gardens,  of  course,  vary  in  size, 
shape,  and  natural  character.  For  these  reasons,  I  pro- 
pose in  this  work  to  pay  special  attention  to  describing 
materials,  and  the  principles  which  should  direct  arrang- 
ing them  tastefully — so  that  one  who  has  a  place,  what- 
ever size  or  shape,  to  improve,  may  start  on  the  right 
track  for  doing  it  well.  I  prefer  to  do  this  to  giving 
many  complete  plans  of  grounds,  and  then  perhaps  it 
would  be  found,  that  not  once  in  a  thousand  times  would 
any  of  these  fit  this  or  that  particular  place.  Still,  some 
plans  may  serve  a  useful  end,  in  suggesting  the  uniting 
of  features  with  a  view  to  complete  effects,  therefore  I 
have  chosen  from  a  large  collection  such  plans  as  I  think 
will  best  answer  this  purpose. 

Beginning  with  plans  of  very  small  plats,  say  from  half 
a  rod  to  two  rods  each,  it  may  be  said,  that  here  is  a  class 
in  which  a  greater  degree  of  uniformity  prevails,  as  to 
size  and  shape,  than  in  larger  grounds,  hence  a  little 
more  attention  is  given  to  complete  plans.  Moreover, 
this  class  greatly  outnumbers  all  others  everywhere,  and 


248 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


are  oftener  totally  neglected  as  regards  embellishments 
than  larger  places. 

The  use  of  two  shrubs  only,  is  shown  in  figure  93  ; 
these  may  be  chosen  from  Weigela,  Althaea  (Rose  of 
Sharon),  Japan  Quince,  Privet,  and  others.  The  shrubs 
are  upon  a  grass  plat,  with  a  climber  over  the  door.  Fig- 
ure 94  suggests  the  use  of  more  shrubs  than  are  employ- 
ed in  the  last,  and  arranged  in  groups.  The  ground 
where  they  stand  may  be  somewhat  undulating  for  creat- 
ing as  much  variety  as  possible  with  good  taste.  Only 
few  shrubs  being  used,  the  selection  should  be  choice, 
consisting  of  those  that  afford  a  good  variety  in  tints,  in 
foliage,  flowers,  and  in  their  season  of  bloom.  Some  of 


Figs.  93  and  94. — SMALL  FRONT  LOTS  ADORNED  WITH  SHRUBS  AND  GRASS 

ONLY,  WITH  CLIMBEKS  OVER  THE  DOORS  OF  THE  HOUSES. 

the  number  might  be  dwarf  evergreens,  to  give  the  eye 
something  to  rest  on  in  winter.  Small  sized  shrubs  pro- 
portionate to  the  size  of  the  grounds,  are  usually  to  be 
chosen  for  such  places.  The  geometrical  or  straight  lines 
of  the  house,  street,  and  walks,  have  such  an  overpower- 
ing influence  here,  that  there  is  little  chance  to  work  for 
the  higher  garden  effects  of  breadth  and  freedom.  And 
yet  in  these  plans,  the  principle  upon  which  such  effects 
depend,  is  observed  to  the  full  degree  allowable,  and 
with  good  results. 

Plans  for  laying  out  small  lots,  using  flowers  freely  in 
addition  to  shrubs  and  grass,  are  given  in  figures  95  and 
96.  In  both  these  lots,  the  ends  farthest  from  the  walks, 


PLANS   OF   PRIVATE   GROUNDS. 


249 


as  well  as  the  border  projection  towards  the  walks,  may 
be  raised  to  be  slightly  mound-like.  When  speaking 
of  giving  a  rounded  elevation  to  such  borders,  I  would 
add  the  caution  to  not  raise  them  too  high.  From 


Figs.  95  and  96.— SMALL  FRONT  LOTS  ADORNED  WITH  GRASS,  SHRUBS, 

AND  FLOWEK8. 

six  to  eighteen  inches  at  the  highest  points  may  be 
about  right  for  the  smallest  sized  lots  thus  laid  out. 

Two  small  lots  planned  for  using  more  flowers  than 
anything  else,  are  represented  in  figures  97  and  98.     The 


Figs.  97  and  98.— SMALL  FRONT  LOTS  WITH  FLOWEBS  PREDOMINATING. 

spaces  between  the  flower-beds  may  be  filled  either  with 
grass  or  gravel,  the  former  being  decidedly  preferable. 
Such  arrangements  are  particularly  suitable  for  persons 
who  have  a  passion  for  growing  flowers,  and  no  other 
space  in  which  to  grow  them. 

To  carry  out  either  of  these  plans  in  small  places, 
ought  not  as  a  rule  to  cost  more  than  ten  or  fifteen  dol- 
lars for  each,  especially  if  those  who  are  to  use  them  do 


250  OKNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

the  work.  Not  much  is  thought  of  applying  such 
amounts  to  the  ornamentation  of  the  house,  yet  if  plans 
like  these,  or  similar  ones  suggested,  were  applied  to 
all  the  small  lots  of  a  neighborhood  or  a  town,  there 
would  follow  returns  in  the  form  of  pure  pleasure  and 
healthfulness  in  such  vicinities,  not  procurable  in  any 
other  manner,  or  so  cheaply. 

In  England,  and  elsewhere  in  Europe,  the  smallest 
sized  cottage  lots  are  oftener  improved  than  with  us.  To 
pass  along  the  streets  of  some  English  towns,  and  see 
rows  of  houses,  the  little  front  plats  of  each  tastefully 
laid  out,  planted,  and  well  kept,  one  can  easily  have  faith 
in  the  favorable  influences  of  such  improvements  on  the 
happiness  of  these  homes.  Contrasting  such  cottage 
grounds  with  the  neglected  ones  so  general  in  our  favored 
land,  one  is  impressed  with  the  wide  field  open  for 
improvements  in  this  class  of  places  everywhere  through- 
out America. 

While  the  plans  already  given  were  designed  for  lots  of 
the  smallest  sizes,  several  of  them,  for  example  those  of 
figures  93,  94,  and  96,  would  be  adapted  to  front  lots  of 
a  similar  shape  several  times  larger  than  those  indicated, 
say  from  two  to  three  square  rods  in  each.  Figure  94 
would  be  the  best  of  these,  because  the  central  portion 
of  the  lawn  is  open,  tending  to  impart  an  air  of  breadth 
and  repose,  a  matter,  the  importance  of  which  increases 
with  the  larger  size  of  the  plats. 

A  long,  narrow  front  yard  is  shown  in  figure  99  ;  it  is 
of  moderate  size,  in  which  many  shrubs  are  used,  yet 
there  is  considerable  open  lawn,  an  arbor,  several  flower- 
beds, and  a  shade  tree.  Such  an  arrangement  of  borders 
and  walks,  the  former  planted  with  shrubs  of  all  sizes 
and  in  large  variety,  with  hardy  and  tender  flowers, 
renders  a  small  place  exceedingly  interesting  to  any  lover 
of  natural  beauty  in  flowers,  shrubs,  and  trees.  Besides, 
such  improvements  may  make  a  place  seem  far  more 


PLANS   OF   PRIVATE   GROUNDS.  251 

ample,  than  if  laid  out,  as  are  many  similar  front  lots, 
with  only  a  straight  walk  through  the  center  from  the 
entrance  to  the  door  of  the  house,  and  perhaps  not  a  tree 
or  shrub  around.  If  desired,  a  vase  might  be  placed 


Fig.  99.— A     DEEP    FRONT    LOT,     LAID     OUT     TO     ACCOMMODATE     GRASS, 
FLOWERS,  SHABE  TREES,  AND  AN   ARBOR.— Scale,  4  feet  to  i  inch. 

in  the  center  of  the  oval  plat,  but  this  is  by  no  means 
required  for  general  good  effect. 

It  may  be  observed  by  the  plans  presented  in  this 
chapter,  that  I  am  a  strong  advocate  of  the  use  of  choice 
flowering  and  evergreen  shrubs  in  groups,  for  embellish- 


252  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

ing  home  grounds,  and  particularly  small  ones.  This  is 
because  it  is  found,  that  in  such  places  good  selections 
are  certain  of  giving  satisfaction,  if  the}'  receive  any- 
thing like  fair  treatment.  Elsewhere  I  have  called  atten- 
tion to  the  special  merits  of  this  class,  and  I  here  quote 
Mr.  Thomas  Meehan,  of  the  "  Gardener's  Monthly,"  re- 
garding the  same  point : 

*'  Shrubs  are  not  nearly  enough  employed  in  planting 
small  places.  By  a  judicious  selection,  a  place  may  be 
had  in  a  blooming  state  all  the  year  ;  and  they  besides 
give  it  a  greater  interest  by  their  variety,  than  is  obtained 
by  the  too  frequent  error  of  filling  up  with  two  or  three 
forest  trees  of  gigantic  growth.  Plant  thickly  at  first, 
to  give  a  place  a  finished  appearance,  and  thin  out  as 
they  grow  older.  The  average  planter  would  have  half 
a  dozen  plants  scattered  a  dozen  yards  apart,  because 
sometime  in  the  future  they  would  perhaps  touch  each 
other.  We  pass  continually  these  weak  conclusions,  the 
little  clumps  near  gate-ways  will  look  like  clumps  some 
day;  but  why  not  have  them  now  ?  It  is  as  easy  to  have 
the  perfect  body  as  the  ugly  skeletons  lying  around. 
Masses  of  shrubs  have  a  fine  effect  in  a  small  place.  The 
centers  of  such  masses  should  be  filled  with  evergreen 
shrubs,  to  prevent  a  too  naked  appearance  in  the  winter." 

Let  it  not  be  thought  that  belts  or  clumps  of  shrubs 
must  make  small  grounds  close  and  hot  in  summer  for 
want  of  breeze.  This  might  be,  if  these  were  wholly 
made  up  of  tall  shrubs  planted  thickly,  but  by  having 
the  margins  varying  in  width,  and  then  planting  the 
narrowest  parts  with  kinds,  that  in  an  age  can  not  ex- 
ceed a  hight  of  a  few  feet,  and  the  wide  parts  with 
large  growers,  this  need  not  happen.  More  than  that, 
by  having  enough  tall  kinds  here  and  there,  to  break 
the  force  of  the  wind,  diverting  it  in  different  directions 
through  the  garden,  a  place  may  be  all  the  more  agreeable. 

An  arrangement  of  shrubs  in  a  town  corner  lot  of 


PLANS   OF   PRIVATE   GROUNDS. 


253 


about  half  an  acre,  with  straight  stone  walks  and  drives, 
is  shown  in  figure  100.  The  walk  leading  to  the  side 
street  is  almost  hidden  as  seen  from  the  front  by  shrubs, 
while  the  back  walk  and  the  drive  are  entirely  hidden 
from  every  part  of  the  grounds,  by  shrubs  and  a  hedge. 
While  the  arrangement  provides  for  some  long  vistas,  to 
give  an  idea  of  extent,  the  projection  of  masses  in  a 
measure  divides  the  ground  into  front,  rear,  and  side 
portions.  Each  part  being  managed  in  a  separate  style, 
with  shrubs  and  trees  of  varied  character,  the  entire  plat 


Fig.     100.— CORNEK     LOT,    110     BY     220     FEET,   WITH     STRAIGHT     WALKS, 
PLANTED  WITH  A   PROFUSION   OF   SHRUBS  AND   FLOWERS. 

is  made  to  yield  a  great  degree  of  satisfaction.  The  lawn 
effects  are  ample;  although  the  borders  encroach  upon 
these  to  some  extent,  there  is  much  advantage  gained  in 
the  relief  and  support  that  comes  from  trees  and  shrubs. 
Then  in  the  long,  wavy  outlines  of  the  grass-plat  that 
meet  the  eye,  being  as  long  or  longer  than  the  boundary 
lines  themselves,  the  idea  is  conveyed  that  the  area  is 
much"  larger  than  it  really  is,  and  larger  than  it  would 
appear  without  the  improvements. 


254  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


Fig.  101.  —  GROUNDS  THREE-FOORTHS  OF  AN  ACRE  IN  EXTENT.  — 

A,  House;  B,  Front  Arbor;  6',  Entrance  Walk  tliroii^li  Slmiblvry:  D.  Conserva- 
tory; E.  Shed;  F,  ]{i-:u-  Arbor  coveix-d  willi  Climber;  G,  Wild  Garden;  H, 
Rockery;  7,  Clothes-dry  ing  Ground;  J,  Fruits  and  Vegetable*;  AT,  Mixed  Border. 


PLANS   OF   PKIVATE   GROUNDS.  255 

Figure  101  represents  a  garden  of  about  three-fourths 
of  an  acre,  with  the  walks  curving  instead  of  straight, 
as  seen  in  the  last.  As  may  be  seen  by  the  explanations, 
there  are  numerous  features  embodied  in  this  plan. 

The  front  arbor,  B,  might  be  surrounded  with  a  dis- 
play of  flowers,  and  some  of  these  could  also  be  intro- 
duced all  along  the  edges  of  most  of  the  shrubbery 
masses.  The  entrance  from  the  street  might  be  edged 
with  stones,  which,  especially  if  the  ground  of  the  shrub- 
bery masses  were  raised  to  be  mound-like,  could  be  built 
up  a  foot  or  more  to  retain  the  raised  earth,  and  thus 
creating  an  effect  quite  like  that  of  a  rockery.  There  are 
several  fine  open  lawns  adorned  with  flower-beds ;  there 
are  shade  trees  throughout  the  grounds,  and  altogether 
just  enough  intricacy  and  scattered  points  of  interest,  to 
lead  a  visitor  to  its  charms  by  giving  him  something  new 
at  every  turn. 

In  figure  102  is  shown  a  four-acre  plat  on  a  hillside, 
having  a  surface  with  a  difference  in  elevation  between 
the  front  and  rear  boundary  lines  of  seventy-five  feet — 
the  rear  being  the  highest.  In  these  grounds  rare  op- 
portunities were  afforded  for  introducing  a  great  variety 
of  features,  from  the  finished  grass  plats  and  Italian 
garden  with  its  clipped  trees,  architectural  embellish- 
ments and  hedge,  to  a  most  picturesque  wild  garden, 
with  thickets,  bluffs,  rill,  waterfall,  lakelet,  winding 
wood  paths,  etc.  A  picturesque  arbor  on  the  hillside, 
not  only  adds  a  pleasing  effect  to  the  grounds,  as  seen 
from  the  front,  but  it  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  lower 
parts  of  the  garden  and  distant  outside  scenery,  as  do 
also  the  walks  and  seats  of  lookout  plateau. 

The  plan  on  page  253,  figure  103,  is  of  a  five  and  one-half 
acre  garden.  Here,  in  ground  almost  level  throughout, 
there  is  sufficient  area  for  introducing  many  attractive 
features,  and  yet  preserving  enough  of  openness  for  fine 
garden  effects.  A  rill  of  water  through  the  rear  part, 


256 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


Fig.  102. — A  FOUR  ACRE  PLAT   ON   A   HILL-SIDE. 

Ji,  Carriage  Drive ;  B,  Front  Walk;     J),  Italian  Garden  on  Hillside;    E,  Stairs  In 

Walk:  F,  Kitchen  and  Fruit  Garden  ;  G,  Arbor  Vlt*  Hcdpe:  If,  Look-out  Plateau. 

75 feet  above  street  level;  /,  Rill  and  Cascade;     J,  Lakelet;    K,  Summer-House ; 

I*  Seat  on  Elevated  Point, 


PLANS   OF  PKIVATE  GROUNDS.  257. 

with  considerable  of  an  abrupt  rise  on  each  side,  afforded 
opportunity  for  excavating  a  small  lake.  On  the  left- 
hand  side  beyond,  but  not  far  from  the  foot  bridge,  a 
picturesque  rockery  is  formed,  including  a  cave,  through 
which  extends  a  walk,  that  is  broken  by  steps  at  the  en- 
trance, and  with  a  seat  in  the  middle.  A  sharp  knoll  is 
formed  here  on  the  edge  of  the  water,  partly  by  the  help 
of  the  cave  arch,  and  on  this  is  located  a  shady  rustic 
arbor,  the  top  of  which  is  seen  from  the  street.  This 
arbor  io  reached  from  the  rear  by  a  walk  with  steps.  The 
knoll  is  faced  on  one  side  with  rocks  rising  out  of  the 
water,  and  there  are  several  large  rocks  jutting  out  of  the 
water  near  the  opposite  shore.  On  the  cave  side  these 
are  arranged  to  allow  the  planting  of  shrubs,  vines,  and 
plants  among  them,  thus  forming  a  kind  of  rock-garden. 
While  in  some  places  of  the  rocky  knoll,  the  stones  over- 
hang the  water  as  seen  in  the  plan,  further  on  towards 
the  bridge,  the  rockwork  runs  back  somewhat  from  the 
water's  edge,  affording  walking  room  between.  Opposite 
the  arbor  across  the  lake  is  a  carriage  stand.  There  is  a 
small  wooded  isle,  towards  the  other  end  of  the  lake, 
with  a  boat  shelter  near.  At  several  places  about  the 
lake  are  opportunities  for  making  wild-gardens.  A  hedge 
of  spruce,  tmd  some  clumps  of  shrubs  and  trees,  cut  off 
tha  vegetable  and  fruit  garden,  carriage  house,  asd 
laborer's  cottage  from  the  garden,  as  shown  in  the  plan. 

One  objection  to  the  making  of  more  drives  in  small 
grounds  than  are  needed  to  reach  the  stable  is,  that  they 
are  apt  to  lack  dignity  through  being  too  tortuous.  While 
such  is  not  the  case  in  the  present  instance,  still  had  it 
not  been  for  the  unusual  attractiveness  of  the  rear 
grounds — proving  a  great  delight  to  visitors  in  carriages, 
the  back  drive  through  the  grounds  would  not  have  been 
planned  here. 

Much  could  be  said  in  favor  of  home  plats  and  pleasure 
grounds,  being  managed  on  a  joint  plan  for  making  them 


258 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


Fig.  103.— A    FIVE  AND  ONE-HALF  ACBE    GARDEN. 

The  location  of  some  of  the  leading  features'  are  shown  by  the  letters  as  fol- 
lows:— A,  House,  with  Conservatory  attached;  B,  Drives;  C,  Walks;  D,  Grapery, 
located  on  Floral  Lawn:  E.  Barn;  F,  Laborers'  Cottage;  G,  Arbors;  S,  Lake, 
with  Rockery  and  Wild  Garden  adjacent;  /,  Vegetables  aud  Fruit. 


PLANS   OF   PRIVATE   GROUNDS.  259 

more  attractive,  through  working  with  the  extent  of  area 
that  comes  from  throwing  a  number  of  them  together 
into  one.  The  common  trouble  with  the  average  garden 
is,  that  owing  to  limited  area,  and  then  the  detraction 
that  comes  from  positive  lines  of  boundaries,  buildings, 
and  walks,  it  is  not  easy  to  produce  free  garden  effects. 
The  larger  the  garden,  the  less  difficulty  we  meet  here, 
therefore  it  will  often  be  advisable  to  throw  a  number  of 
these  together  to  be  managed  and  enjoyed  jointly,  all 
with  a  view  to  having  finer  effects,  and  more  gratifying 
results  generally. 

Figure  104  shows  a  row  of  town  houses,  fifty  feet  back 
from  the  line  of  the  street,  with  the  ground  at  the  front 
treated  on  such  a  plan.  It  is  easily  seen  how  much  more 
satisfactory  such  a  garden  may  be,  in  almost  every  way, 


Fig.  104.  — GARDEN    FRONT   TO  A  ROW  OF  HOUSES,   USED    AND    KEPT    UP 
JOINTLY. 

than  several  narrow  ones  instead,  each  arranged  on  a 
plan  of  its  own.  From  any  house  of  this  row,  the  eye 
may  meet  a  beautiful  garden  scene,  possessing  breadth, 
character,  and  a  good  variety  of  embellishments  and 
bringing  pleasure  and  rest,  such  as  no  narrow  twenty  by 
fifty-foot  garden  or  any  number  of  them  could  afford. 
There  comes  a  gain  also,  in  the  items  of  expense  for 


260  OKNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

making  and  keeping,  by  such  an  arrangement.  Let  there 
be  one  garden  to  lay  out,  improve  and  keep  up,  and  it 
could  be  done  for  one-half  the  money  required  for  plant- 
ing and  keeping  the  same  piece,  if  cut  into  seven  gardens 
with  seven  plans,  and  calling  for  seven  bargains  for  con- 
struction and  keeping. 

If  real  estate  owners,  who  in  so  many  cases  put  up 
rows  of  dwellings,  would  plan  for  having  gardens  of  this 
kind,  the  increased  attractions  would  at  once  allow  of 
such  an  advance  in  rents,  as  could  easily  make  up,  and 
more  too,  for  the  land  and  the  expense  of  making  a  really 
fine  garden  and  caring  for  it.  In  such  a  case,  the  land- 
lord might  be  the  one  to  see  the  garden  cared  for.  If 
owned  by  the  people  who  occupy  them,  the  management 
could  devolve  upon  a  trustee  chosen  by  the  owners,  or 
they  could  themselves  take  yearly  turns  at  keeping. 

Figure  105  shows  how  three  long  lots  of  several  acres 
each,  side  by  side,  may  be  thrown  into  one,  and  treated 
as  a  good  sized  joint  garden,  possessing  many  delightful 
features.  All  the  parts  are  kept  up  and  used  jointly, 
excepting  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  each  house. 
There  are  three  arbors,  one  near  each  house,  which  are 
designed  for  private  use,  as  are  also  ample  clothes-drying 
lawns.  Each  proprietor  has  a  carriage  house,  two  of 
them  under  one  roof;  each  a  share  in  a  vegetable  garden, 
shown  in  the  upper  right-hand  corner. 

This  arrangement  has  much  to  recommend  it  in 
many  respects.  The  grounds  are  immeasurably  finer  in 
garden  effect  than  could  be  secured  in  working  with  di- 
vided areas.  There  is  a  grove  of  wood  at  the  left ;  a 
fair  lakelet  with  drive  crossing  it  by  a  bridge,  broad  areas 
of  lawn,  and  an  extended  carriage  drive  ;  not  one  of 
which  features  could  be  well  carried  out  on  a  third  por- 
tion of  the  whole,  while  by  this  plan  such  a  general 
amplitude  prevails,  that  all  the  families  can  have  abun- 
dant room. 


PLANS   OF   PKIVATE   GROUNDS.  261 

The  conservatory  is  three  in  one,  each  family  having  a 
wing  with  a  central  bed  for  show  plants,  contributed 
by  all,  and  is  large  enough  and  well  designed  for  creat- 


Fig.  105.— THREE  TOWN  RESIDENCES. 

The  rear  grounds  of  icliich  are  thrown  into  a  Park  and  Pleasure  Ground,  with 

Conservatory,  Vegetable  Garden,  etc..,  used  and  supported  conjointly.     Three 

Homes,  two  Stables,  Laborer's  Cottaqe,  Koat  Houses,  five  Arbors,  three 

of  which  are  private,  etc. 

ing  a  fine  effect  as  seen  from  all  parts  of  the  grounds. 
The  floral  circle  in  the  left  half  of  the  grounds,  is  another 
beautiful  feature,  owing  much  of  its  effect  to  the  large- 


262 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


ness  of  the  combined  gardens.  It  is  readily  reached  by 
both  walks  and  drives. 

There  are  two  carriage  and  four  foot  entrances,  all  of 
which  lead  conveniently  to  the  houses  and  the  rear  pleas- 
ure gardens. 

Of  course,  there  is  no  limit  to  the  variations  allowable 
in  carrying  out  this  system.  Any  number  of  houses  and 
gardens,  and  of  any  size,  might  be  embraced  where  suit- 
ably situated.  The  idea  of  both  a  front  and  rear  garden, 
as  shown  in  figure  104,  and  the  other  in  figure  105,  might 
sometimes  be  combined,  giving  place  for  a  close  row  of 
houses,  or  a  number  of  double  houses,  or  instead  of  having 


Fig.  106. — GROUNDS  NEAR  BUFFALO  PARK. 

the  houses  a  uniform  distance  from  the  street,  they  might 
be  scattered  over  the  grounds,  fronting  on  the  gracefully 
curved  drives. 

A  style  of  arranging  town  suburbs  and  summer  resorts, 
has  been  developed  in  connection  with  some  large  public 
parks,  both  in  America  and  England,  which  is  worth 
noticing  here. 

The  idea  is  well  illustrated  by  the  engraving,  figure 


PLANS   OF  PRIVATE   GROUNDS.  2C3 

106,  which  shows  a  section  of  Buffalo  Park  with  adjacent 
lands  called  "Parkside,"  planned  for  laying  out  with 
curved  drives  and  avenues,  and  irregularly  shaped  build- 
ing lots,  the  former  connecting  with  the  park  drives  and 
circles  at  convenient  distances. 

This  principle  is  applicable  to  suburbs  independent  of 
parks,  and  particularly  to  summer  resort  villages,  such 
as  are  now  springing  up  throughout  the  country,  where- 
ever  there  are  spots  possessing  natural  attractions,  out- 
lying large  towns  and  cities.  The  success  of  these  de- 
pends as  much  upon  the  joint  action  of  property  owners 
from  year  to  year,  as  upon  laying  out  the  grounds  origi- 
nally, to  have  graceful,  winding  highways,  instead  of  the 
usual  straight  streets  and  sharp  angles.  In  the  plan 
illustrated,  the  sections  formed  average  about  twelve  acres 
in  extent,  and  these  divide  up  into  from  three  to  twelve 
building  lots  each — large  enough  to  admit  of  carrying 
out  a  joint  system  of  laying  out  and  keeping  up  each  one 
with  fine  effect. 

As  wealth  and  a  love  for  ornamental  gardening  increase 
in  our  land,  there  are  more  persons  owning  farms  who 
enjoy  improving  them  in  matters  beautiful,  as  well  as 
useful.  A  good  deal  of  landscape  garden  beauty  may  be 
combined  with  most  farms,  without  impairing  their  value 
for  raising  crops  or  live  stock.  Figure  107  is  a  plan  for 
laying  out  a  small  farm  ornamentally.  As  shown  there 
are  six  fields,  besides  orchards,  groves,  kitchen  garden, 
and  grass  plats,  adorned  with  trees,  shrubs,  flowers,  etc. 
The  driveways  from  the  street  lead  gracefully  to  the  main 
buildings,  and  throughout  the  farm.  The  grass  plats  in 
front  of  the  house  and  the  bam,  as  well  as  any  others, 
may  be  kept  closely  clipped  with  the  lawn  mower,  or 
else  —  especially  the  larger  ones — they  may  be  mown 
three  or  four  times  .during  the  season  for  feeding  to  live 
stock.  In  such  a  plan  the  fields  may  be  surrounded  by 
hedges,  or  sometimes  advantageously  by  wire  fences.  By 


264  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


Fig.    107. — FARM    PLANNED  WITH    PARK-LIKE    DRIVES    AND    OTHER    OB- 
NAMENTAL  FEATURES. 

The  House  is  located  nearest  to  the  street,  a  trifle  to  the  right  of  the  center,  and 
the  Burn  a  little  further  back  to  the  left. 


PORTICO,    WINDOW,    AND   ROOF  GARDENS.        -  265 

running  a  wire  fence  around  the  plat,  immediately  back 
of  the  barn,  and  using  it  as  a  permanent  pasture,  it  will 
present  from  the  street  and  house  the  appearance  of  an 
extension  of  the  ornamental  grounds,  because  the  grass 
being  kept  closely  pastured,  will  look  as  well  as  if  shorn 
with  the  lawn  mower,  while  the  fence  may  be  so  incon- 
spicuous as  hardly  to  be  seen  a  short  distance  off. 

By  running  a  lane  from  the  pasture  down  through  the 
center  of  the  next  section  beyond,  to  the  farm  circle,  lo- 
cated in  the  most  distant  point  of  the  drive,  live  stock 
can  easily  be  driven  to  any  lot  of  the  farm  if  desired. 

In  the  plan,  a  walk  leads  from  the  house  to  the  right, 
past  a  flower  bed  in  the  lawn,  to  the  kitchen  garden, 
thence  near  the  drive,  with  shrubs  and  hardy  flowers  in 
places  at  the  side,  to  the  grove  on  the  right.  Here  is  a 
comfortable  arbor  to  afford  shelter,  both  from  sun  and 
rain.  An  arbor  somewhat  different  in  style  from  this  one, 
occupies  a.  grass  plat  in  the  center  of  the  rear  circle. 
Between  the  drive  and  fence  of  this  circle,  there  are  five 
spaces  of  grass  that  may  have  beds  cut  in  them  to  be 
filled  with  shrubs  and  plants. 

A  farm  of  any  size,  or  a  fruit  and  vegetable  garden, 
laid  out  on  some  such  plan,  may  prove  on  this  account 
in  itself  a  great  source  of  pleasure  to  the  residents  of 
the  place,  as  well  as  to  visitors. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 
PORTICO,  WINDOW,  AND  ROOF  GARDENS. 

Many  persons  live  in  houses  that  have  no  garden  plats 
attached  to  them,  but  there  is  no  need  of  their  being 
altogether  deprived  of  the  pleasure  of  growing  plants. 
Some  of  these  houses  have  porticoes,  all  have  windows, 
and  every  building  has  a  roof,  and  these  having  access  to 
12 


266  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

the  needed  air  and  light,  may  allow  a  great  deal  of  gar- 
dening above  terra  firma. 

Of  such  gardening,  that  done  in  outside  window 
boxes  and  portico  boxes  is  the  most  common,  because  the 
little  gardens  are  easily  prepared,  are  adapted  to  every 
place,  and  generally  prove  very  successful.  Figure  108, 
showing  one  of  the  former,  will  give  an  idea  of  the  man- 


Fig.  108.— WINDOW  BOX  WITH  CLIMBERS. 

ner  in  which  these  are  made  and  arranged.  For  win- 
dows, a  box  is  made,  measuring  for  inside  dimensions 
five  inches  and  upwards  deep,  and  the  same  in  width, 
and  of  a  length  corresponding  to  the  width  of  the  win- 
dow, the  sill  of  which  it  is  to  set  upon.  Portico  boxes 
may  be  the  same  as  regards  width  and  hight,  but  the 


POBTICO,    WINDOW,    AND   ROOF   GABDENS.          267 

length  is  usually  greater.  These  are  placed  on  the  rail- 
ing of  the  veranda,  or  on  the  floor  at  the  front  of  the 
railing,  sometimes  at  the  end  of  the  veranda  only,  but 
most  frequently  along  the  entire  front.  When  placed  on 
the  rail,  they  are  made  in  sections  to  fit  between  the 
posts,  but  if  on  the  floor  at  the  front,  they  may  be  con- 
tinuous. 

I  desire  to  impress  the  importance  of  ample  size  for 
such  boxes.  If  made  six  inches  high,  and  six,  eight,  or 
even  ten  wide,  the  plants  will  be  the  better  for  it.  Beauty 
here  depends  largely  on  their  being  well  filled  with  good 
sized,  vigorous  plants,  and  such  require  a  fair  bulk  of 
earth  in  which  to  grow.  Window  boxes  may  be  made 
with  a  bottom  outline  shaped  as  in  figure  109,  and  pro- 
ject beyond  the  window  sill  (indicated  by  the  dotted 


Fig.  109.  —  PLAN  OV  WINDOW  BOX. 

line),  both  in  front  and  at  the  ends.  In  this  shape  they 
can  be  plenty  large  enough,  and  will  look  well.  The  pro- 
jecting weight  may  be  in  part  sustained  by  a  wire  at  each 
end,  running  to  a  hook  or  strong  screw  at  the  top  of  the 
window  frame,  and  on  these  wires  climbing  plants  may 
be  trained. 

A  pleasing  arrangement  of  boxes  for  houses  built  with 
the  square,  regular  fronts,  so  common  in  towns,  is  to 
have  a  box  run  the  whole  width  of  two  or  more  windows, 
and  the  space  between,  or  along  the  entire  front,  resting 
on  the  sill  projections.  In  a  three  story  building  —  the 
first  floor  being  stores,  and  the  others  living  apartments, 
if  a  box  is  thus  run  the  entire  length  at  the  second  story 
windows,  and  then  for  the  third  story  a  single  box  is 
provided  for  each  window,  with  none  between,  the  effect 
as  seen  from  the  street,  is  very  fine. 


268  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

The  plants  most  suitable  for  such  boxes,  are  those  of 
drooping  habit  for  along  the  edges,  and  climbers  may 
Le  used  if  desired,  for  the  sides  of  windows,  or  posts  of 
the  veranda,  and  then  bright,  free-flowering  plants,  such 
as  Geraniums,  Heliotropes,  Cuphea,  Fuchsias,  and  showy- 
leaved  Dracaenas,  Begonias,  Aspidistra,  Coleus,  Achyran- 
thes,  Dusty  Miller,  Caladiums,  Cannas,  etc.  In  fact, 
where  space  and  sufficiency  of  soil  admit,  there  need  be 
no  particular  limit  in  the  selection. 

The  Hanging  Basket  is  a  well  known  ornament,  par- 
ticularly suitable  for  suspending  from  the  roof  of  the 
portico,  or  from  a  projecting  hook  in  front,  or  at  the  side 
of  a  window.  The  most  common  material  of  which  these 
are  made  is  wire,  the  basket  to  be  lined  with  moss, 
and  rustic  earthenware  or  fancy  crockery  ware.  Here  it 
should  be  observed  that  quite  a  number  of  plants  are 
brought  closely  together,  and  the  best  results  will  not  fol- 
low with  a  receptacle  for  earth  too  small  to  properly 
hold  them.  Whatever  their  kind,  those  measuring  ten 
inches  and  upwards  across,  unless  very  deep,  are  best. 
If  less  than  ten  inches,  they  may  look  well  when  started, 
but  with  hot  weather,  and  increased  growth,  they  will 
not  keep  thus,  but  die  out  quickly.  The  plants  named 
for  window  boxes,  are  also  suitable  for  hanging  baskets. 

PLANT     VASES,    BOXES,     AND    LARGE    PAINTED    FLOWER 
POTS. 

These  are  often  used  for  decorating  railings,  posts, 
roofs,  and  the  la\vn.  They  do  not  differ  materially  as  to 
their  planting,  from  the  hanging  baskets  and  window 
boxes.  In  all  attempts  at  growing  plants  in  these  recep- 
tacles, above  all  else  the  soil  should  be  in  fertile  condi- 
tion, for  be  it  remembered,  that  much  growth  and  beauty 
are  expected  from  a  small  bulk  of  earth,  consequently  it 
should  be  the  best  attainable.  Any  good  soil  of  loamy 
texture,  well  enriched  with  fine,  old  manure,  will  answer. 


PORTICO,  WINDOW,  AND  HOOF  GARDENS.     269 
EOOF  GAEDENS. 

A  garden  upon  the  roof  affords  a  means  of  plant-grow- 
ing, either  in  the  open  air  or  in  a  green-house,  that  we 
hope  to  see  made  much  of  in  the  near  future.  We  talk 
about  not  having  gardens  in  the  cities,  because  there  is 
no  room.  Is  there  less  superficial  area  exposed  directly 
to  the  lighb  of  the  heavens  after  building  than  before  ? 
The  area  is  the  same,  but  only  so  much  nearer  the  light 
and  pure  air.  In  most  cases,  where  there  are  flat  roofs, 
and  there  could  readily  be  more  of  them,  there  would, 
be  found  ample  opportunity  for  cultivating  a  fine  collec- 
tion of  hardy  and  tender  plants,  even  in  the  hearts  of 
cities. 

One  of  the  finest  public  gardens  in  Europe  is  the  Wa- 
verly  Garden  of  Edinburgh,  being  really  a  roof  garden 
over  a  market  building.  It  embraces  an  area  of  about 
seventy-five  by  four  hundred  feet,  all  of  which,  except 
where  there  are  some  sky-lights,  is  devoted  to  flowers, 
grass,  vases,  walks,  and  seats.  There  are  sixteen  bor- 
ders, averaging  some  seventy-five  by  four  feet,  besides  a 
number  of  smaller  square  beds,  and  altogether  using 
thousands  of  fine  plants.  There  is  also  a  large  bed  of 
grass  kept  neatly  mown. 

The  beds  and  borders  contain  about  a  foot  in  depth  of 
soil,  and  this  is  retained  by  a  neat  stone  coping  through- 
out. The  edge,  of  the  roof,  and  the  sky-lights,  are 
guarded  by  ornamental  railings,  with  posts,  and  these 
support  many  well  filled  vases  of  plants,  fully  one  hun- 
dred in  all.  Taken  altogether,  this  roof  garden,  with  no 
advantages  beyond  those  common  to  thousands  of  roofs 
throughout  our  cities,  is  a  most  charming  place,  afford- 
ing delight  to  all  who  visit  it. 

The  engraving  (fig.  110),  with  the  quoted-  matter 
which  follows,  appeared  in  the  "  American  Agriculturist '? 
some  time  ago  from  the  pen  of  Samuel  B.  Parsons,  Esq. , 


270  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

of  Flushing,  N.  Y.  They  bear  so  forcibly  upon  this 
subject,  that  I  present  them  here  : 

"  It  is  within  the  means  of  every  man  who  builds  a 
house  to  rent  for  eight  hundred  dollars  per  year,  to  have 
a  garden  on  the  roof,  which,  during  the  summer,  can  be 
filled  with  the  most  luscious  fruits,  and  in  the  winter 
with  plants,  the  beauty  of  which  will  afford  a  cbarm  far 
beyond  the  trifling  cost  of  maintenance. 

"A  glass  roof  costs  but  little  more  than  a  slate  or  tin 
one.  Let  the  roof,  therefore,  be  covered  with  glass,  and 
let  the  garret  floor  be  covered  with  concrete,  sloping 


Fig.  110.— A  ROOF  CONSEBVATOBY. 

gently  from  the  center  to  the  sides,  around  which  a 
slight  depression  in  the  floor  can  carry  the  moisture  or 
drip  into  the  leaders,  which  pass  from  the  roof  of  every 
house  to  the  ground,  and  with  slight  expense  a  perfect 
green-house  may  be  had.  Now  for  heating.  Every  one 
knows  that  the  upper  rooms  of  his  house  are  so  warm 
from  the  ascending  heat  of  his  furnace,  that  registers  are 
scarcely  needed.  Let  the  doors  be  kept  open,  and  the 
waste  heat  of  the  house  will  keep  the  green-house  at  the 
highest  'desirable  temperature  without  any  extra  trouble 
or  expenditure. 

"  Its  care  would  be  a  pleasant  recreation  for  any  of  the 


PORTICO,  WINDOW,  AND   ROOF   GARDENS. 


271 


family.  A  lady  fresh  from  such  occupations,  would  lend 
new  charms  to  the  evening  hours,  and  the  memory  of 
her  children  in  the  upper  air,  would  always  have  power 
to  bring  a  sparkle  to  her  eye,  or  a  glad  expression  to  her 
lip.  There  are  numerous  florists  in  every  city  who  would 
be  glad  to  keep  such  a  place  in  perfect  order  for  a  very 
moderate  compensation. 

"  If  a  little  extra  strength  is  given  to  tbe  beams  which 
sustain  the  upper  floor,  suf- 
ficient earth  could  be  placed 
there  to  lay  out  the  whole 
space  as  a  perfect  garden, 
with  winding  walks,  de- 
lightful carpets  of  green, 
and  ro&es,  camellias,  etc., 
planted  in  the  soil. 

"If  the  capabilities  of 
this  plan,  and  its  economy 
were  thoroughly  understood 
by  architects  and  proprie- 
tors, the  time  would  soon 
come,  when  a  roof  garden 
'would  be  considered  just  as 
essential  an  appendage  to 
a  house  as  a  bath-room." 

AN   ATTACHED  CONSER- 
VATORY. 

Figure  111  represents  a 
umall  conservatory,  built 
over  a  bay  window,  and 
reached  from  the  second 
floor.  Where  it  would  be  un- 
desirable to  have  a  conser- 
vatory or  garden  on  the  top  of  the  house,  such  a  one  from 
being  smaller,  as  well  as  more  convenient,  might  be  prefer- 


Fig.  111.— CONSERVATORY  OVER 
BAY-WINDOW. 


272  .  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

red,  and  it  would  be  practicable  to  combine  it  with  almost 
any  house  in  one  shape  or  another.  The  heating  could 
be  done  by  extending  the  warming  system  from  the  house 
into  the  plant  apartment.  With  the  beautiful,  irregular 
styles  of  houses  that  are  now  so  much  in  demand,  it 
would  be  no  trouble  to  plan  excellent  small  conservatories 
to  be  parts  of  them,  not  only  serving  to  make  the  home 
more  interesting  to  the  inmates,  but  adding  additional 
grace  and  brightness  to  the  building  as  seen  from  the 
street.  If  there  were  gardens  adjacent  to  the  house 
needing  bedding  plants  in  the  spring,  some  of  these  for 
the  summer  flower  beds  and  vases  could  be  propagated 
towards  each  spring,  in  addition  to  growing  flowers 
throughout  the  year,  and  the  space  thus  turned  to  a 
profitable,  as  well  as  a  pleasure  vielding  account. 


CHAPTER   XXVI. 

CHURCH,   SCHOOL,   ASYLUM,   HOTEL,  AND  RAILROAD 
GARDENS. 

It  is  gratifying  to  see  the  disposition  manifested  in 
some  places  to  improve  with  garden  embellishments  the 
surroundings  of  schools  and  other  institutions,  such  as 
are  named  in  the  heading.  There  is  room  for  good  work, 
for  I  can  think  of  nothing  that  can  go  farther  towards 
educating  the  people  to  appreciate  and  desire  fine  gar- 
dens, than  to  establish  them  in  places  where  they  are 
sure  to  be  seen  by  many  observers. 

It  is  painful  to  admit  that  perhaps  not  one  in  ten  coun- 
try school  houses  is  shaded  by  a  single  tree,  or  shows  any 
other  garden  embellishment  whatever.  In  fact,  a  school- 
house  may  usually  be  recognized  by  its  bleak  appearance, 
and  the  entire  absence  of  trees,  shrubs,  climbers,  and 


CHURCH,  SCHOOL,  ETC.,  GARDENS.  273 

flowers.  There  is  no  excuse  for  this,  because  the  stock 
necessary  to  improve  the  grounds,  need  not  cost  much,  if 
bought,  while  in  most  cases  no  outlay  would  be  required, 
as  native  plants  and  trees  could  be  had  for  the  digging. 
School  trustees  should  see  to  it,  that  the  work  is  done  in 
every  district,  not  by  planting  only,  but  also  by  properly 
protecting  the  trees,  etc. 

That  there  is  little  danger  that  trees  will  be  damaged 
in  school  yards  if  somewhat  protected,  and  with 
proper  rules  respecting  their  safety,  is  shown  by  the 
many  cases  of  city  school  yards  that  abound  in  shade 
trees.  Here,  in  fact,  may  sometimes  be  found  the  other 
extreme,  and  almost  as  objectionable  as  the  one  alluded 
to  above — namely,  too  many  trees. 

In  carrying  out  such  improvements,  the  best  way  is  to 
plant  the  trees  in  clusters,  so  that  plenty  of  air  and  sun- 
light, as  well  as  shade,  may  be  present. 

Figure  112  shows  a  school  yard  designed  to  present 
a  great  deal  of  natural  beauty  and  variety,  as  w,oil  as 
to  afford  comfort  to  the  children.  It  is  intended  that  the 
general  surface  be  finished  with  gravel,  q,r Bother  hard 
material,  instead  of  grass.  In  the  figurr  tf,  A,  represent 
shrubbery  and  flower  borders  abeut^'^ht  feet  wide,  well 
guarded  against  intrusion  from  the  Children,  by  a  stone 
or  brick  coping  one  foot  high,  with  or  without  an  addi- 
tional light  iron  guard  on  the  top.  B  is  an  ornamental 
raised  bed  or  terrace,  about  a  foot  high  at  the  lowest 
part,  with  the  soil  retained  by  a  coping  similar  to  that 
around  A,  A.  From  this  terrace,  which  is  grass-covered, 
a  second  one,  smaller  in  diameter,  rises  above  the  surface 
about  a  foot,  and  is  also  retained  by  a  coping  of  stone  or 
brick.  This  one  is  surmounted  by  low-growing,  bright 
flowers.  C,  C  are  grass-covered  slopes  of  about  two  and  a 
half  feet  rise,  and  surmounted  by  low-growing,  attractive 
shrubs.  By  the  novel  means  of  such  slopes,  some  grass 
for  beauty  may  be  had  in  perfect  order,  without  danger 


274 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


of  its  being  trampled  out  of  existence.  I)  is  a  strip  of 
grass,  on  which  is  planted  a  heavy  line  of  shrubbery,  to 
form  a  dividing  line.  There  are  also  four  shrubbery  and 
flower-borders  against  the  school-house  in  the  plan  as 
shown,  also  protected  by  copings.  Strong-growing  shade 
trees  are  scattered  about,  and  climbers  adorn  the  buildings, 
with  some  vigorous-growing  shrubs  or  evergreens  set  to 


Fig.  112. — SCHOOL  YARD  IMPBOVED  WITH  TREES,  ETC. 

hide  the  outhouses.  A  school  yard  like  this,  with  little 
attention,  proves  very  attractive,  and  when  it  is  tried  it 
is  surprising  how  soon  the  children  learn  to  respect  and 
love  the  adornments.  With  a  good  selection  of  trees, 
shrubs,  and  flowers,  there  may  be  an  abundance  of  bloom 
all  through  the  warm  season,  besides  grass  and  shade. 
Such  arrangements  in  the  school  yard  might  also  be  of 


CHUKCH,  SCHOOL,  ETC.,  GARDENS.  275 

great  service  in  furnishing   matarials   for  the  study  of 
botany. 

In  the  larger  grounds,  common  about  high  schools  and 
colleges,  usually  a  style  of  gardening  more  natural  in  its 
features  may  be  employed,  owing  to  the  more  favorable 
circumstances.  Sometimes  very  fine  displays  of  ornament- 
al gardening,  as  well  as  more  useful  botanical  gardens  are 
established,  as  at  Harvard  and  elsewhere.  Such  improve- 
ments find  appreciation  from  the  patrons  of  the  schools, 
and  may  readily  be  made  to  add  much  to  their  complete- 
ness as  educational  institutions. 

TREATMENT  OF  CHUECH  YARDS. 

In  adorning  church  yards,  the  aim  should  be  towards 
introducing  quiet  and  graceful  beauty,  consequently  such 
trees  as  the  Camperdown  Weeping  Elm,  Kilmarnock 
Willow,  Yellow  Wood,  Ginkgo,  and  the  evergreens  and 
flowering  shrubs  are  to  be  preferred.  There  should  be  a 
great  deal  of  clear  lawn  iu  proportion  to  other  embel- 
lishments. Whatever  trees  are  introduced  should  not 
be  crowded,  but  receive  a  free  setting  well  supported  by 
grass,  while  the  shubbery  and  evergreens  may  be  ar- 
ranged in  well  defined  clumps.  The  climbers  should  be 
freely  used  for  mantling  the  outside  walls  in  places,  and 
especially  in  those  numerous  cases  where  there  are  no 
garden  surroundings. 

GARDENS  FOR   HOSPITALS   AND    ASYLUMS. 

Some  of  the  most  successful  ornamental  gardens  in 
the  country  are  those  associated  with  hospitals,  insane 
and  other  asylums.  It  is  found  that  money  may  be  as 
profitably  spent  in  providing  fine  lawns,  trees,  shrubs, 
flowers,  green-houses,  etc.,  for  aiding  in  the  relief  of  un- 
fortunates, as  in  any  other  direction  for  rendering  these 
institutions  as  useful  as  possible. 


276  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

Mr.  Peter  Henderson,  in  writing  to  the  "American  Ag- 
riculturist" of  the  fine  gardens  connected  with  the  State 
hospitals  for  the  insane,  Mendota,  Wis.,  says:  "But 
the  most  important  feature  of  the  garden  operations  at 
this  asylum  is  the  employment  of  the  patients  as  work- 
men. An  average  of  fifteen  are  employed  in  the  summer 
months  during  the  growing  season,  who  work  on  an 
average  six  hours  each  day,  and  Mr.  Schatzka,  who  is 
evidently  a  careful  and  intelligent  observer,  assures  me 
that  the  effect  on  the  health  of  the  patients  is  marked. 
The  result  is  that  a  greater  number  of  the  garden  hands 
have  been  discharged  as  cured  in  proportion  to  numbers 
than  of  others.  Mr.  Schatzka  manages,  by  the  aid  of 
hot-beds,  to  fill  numerous  beds  that  are  laid  out  in  the 
lawn  in  front  of  the  hospital  with  flowering  plants. 
These  he  quaintly  terms  an  '  eye  pasture '  for  the 
patients.  These  beds  give  enough  flowers  to  form  bou- 
quets for  the  sick  wards  during  the  summer  months,  and 
thus  are  a  source  of  great  pleasure  to  scores  of  the  un- 
fortunates within.  Believing  in  the  soothing  effects  of 
flowers  on  some  species  of  insanity,  a  gentleman  recently 
left  a  fund  of  ten  thousand  dollars  for  erecting  a  winter 
garden  or  conservatory,  to  be  used  as  a  promenade 
ground  for  the  patients  at  an  insane  asylum  in  Ohio. 

"  Such  a  garden  might  be  attached  with  profit  to  vari- 
ous other  kinds  of  public  institutions,  for  in  nearly  all 
cases  the  labor  could  be  mainly  done  by  the  inmates,  not 
only  without  cost,  but  to  their  physical,  mental,  and 
moral  advantage.  The  grounds  surrounding  the  various 
public  buildings  on  Blackwell's  Island,  New  York,  and 
at  Flatbush,  Long  Island,  are,  and  have  been  so  for 
many  years,  models  of  excellent  cultivation,  and  reflect 
credit  on  the  management  ;  but  there  are  many  others 
in  the  suburbs,  and  hundreds  in  all  sections  of  the  coun- 
try, where  no  attempt  whatever  has  been  made,  and  in 
others  it  is  so  feeble  that  it  has  amounted  to  nothing. 


CHURCH,  SCHOOL,  ETC.,  GARDENS.  277 

There  is  no  excuse  for  this.  There  are  always  men  fitted 
to  take  charge  of  such  work  to  be  had  for  moderate  sal- 
aries, who,  with  the  free  labor  of  the  inmates  of  the  in- 
stitutions, many  of  whom  would  like  the  work,  could 
produce  results  that  would  add  vastly  to  the  comfort  and 
health  of  tho  inmates,-  to  say  nothing  of  the  saving  to  the 
county  or  State." 

Institutions  of  this  character  usually  embrace  a  consid- 
erable extent  of  farm  lands.  In  some  cases  these  may, 
with  good  effect,  be  laid  out  something  as  shown  in  fig- 
ure 107,  which,  while  allowing  the  land  to  be  utilized  for 
garden  and  farm  purposes  may  be  laid  out  with  reference 
to  landscape  garden  effects.  I  recently  made  plans  for 
laying  out  the  grounds  of  a  County  Poor  and  Insane  Asy- 
lum, the  large  buildings  of  which  stand  elevated  some  six 
hundred  feet  from  the  highway.  The  land  between  the 
buildings  and  the  street  was  the  best  on  the  farm  for 
gardening  purposes,  and  had  for  many  years  been  de- 
voted to  vegetable  growing.  In  the  new  plan,  while 
drives  and  walks  were  provided  for  through  the  front 
portion,  these  were  so  arranged  as  to  leave  several  large 
areas  in  this  front  part  for  garden  crops.  Between  the 
drives  and  these  plats,  liberal  breadths  about  thirty-five 
feet  wide  are  to  be  in  grass,  and  kept  nicely  mowed  as 
well  as  embellished  with  trees,  shrubs,  etc.  On  the 
whole  it  is  planned  for  having  about  as  much  of  the 
front  devoted  to  vegetables  as  to  ornamental  gardening, 
and  the  former,  so  long  as  the  garden  is  well  kept  up, 
detracts  very  little  from  the  ornamental  effect  of  the  place, 
while  practical  minded  tax-payers  enjoy  the  combination 
and  say  it  looks  better  thus. 

In  the  great  hotel  building  enterprises  of  the  day, 
there  is  often  a  good  opportunity  to  devote  a  part  of  the 
vast  outlay  to  rendering  them  attractive  by  introducing 
some  garden  features.  Where  it  is  possible  to  embrace  a 
small  garden  area  on  the  ground,  this  would  be  the  best 


278  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

form  of  ornament.  Otherwise  provision  could  be  made 
for  some  roof  and  veranda  gardens.  What  can  go  farther 
towards  making  a  hotel  attractive  to  the  guests,  than  to 
have  the  dining-room  and  other  windows  opening  upon 
a  garden  filled  with  neatly  kept  grass,  bright  flowers, 
and  beautiful  shrubs,  together  with  walks,  and  perhaps 
vine-covered  seats  or  arbors.  The  refreshing  beauty  and 
comfort  of  such  a  spot  would  be  appreciated  by  the  trav- 
elling public,  and  no  doubt  in  many  instances  would 
serve  to  make  a  hotel  a  favorite  over  rivals  not  having 
these  attractions. 

The  enterprise  manifested  by  some  of  the  great  rail- 
roads in  the  way  of  improved  stations  and  station  gar- 
dens, may  be  considered  as  a  beginning  in  the  right  di- 
rection in  what  may  be  called  "Railroad  Gardening," 
and  an  example  that  must  sooner  or  later  be  followed 
by  all  our  railroad  companies.  The  manner  of  keeping 
up  lands  along  railroad  lines  and  about  stations  in  Eng- 
land, and  elsewhere  in  Europe,  is  in  marked  contrast 
with  this  country.  There  nearly  all  railroad  lands  at 
the  side  of  the  tracks  are  made  even,  and  whether  level 
or  sloping  are  well  finished,  put  into  grass  and  mown 
like  a  park.  Masses  and  lines  of  trees  are  introduced  in 
some  places.  What  abundant  chances  for  improvement 
in  this  direction  are  afforded  by  the  American  railroads 
generally.  One  may  travel  thousands  of  miles  in  the 
United  States  and  see  little  besides  weeds,  thistles,  and 
brambles  scattsred  over  a  rough  surface,  and  through 
unshapely  ditches,  with  boulders  and  stumps  along  the 
tracks.  It  would  cost  something  to  bring  the  lands  into 
proper  shape  for  grass,  but  in  the  long  run,  improvements 
of  this  kind  would  pay,  aside  from  the  increased  attrac- 
tiveness of  the  road  to  travellers,  for  it  would  require 
less  expense  to  keep  the  surface  mowed  occasionally  (the 
grass  yielded  ought  to  pay  for  this)  than  is  now  required 
in  the  occasional  hacking  away  of  weeds  and  brush,  be- 


PUBLIC   PAEKS   AND   PLEASURE   GROUNDS.  279 

sides  there  would  be  less  danger  from  fire  should  the 
sparks  fall  on  the  grass  than  might  result  from  their 
dropping  in  the  dry  rubbish  so  common  by  the  sides  of 
the  track. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 
PUBLIC  PARKS  AND  PLEASURE  GROUNDS. 

The  subject  of  public  parks  and  pleasure  grounds  for 
recreation,  is  one  that  is  destined  to  grow  in  interest  in 
this  country.  The  making  of  these  is  now  only  in  its  in- 
fancy, yet  in  view  of  their  healthfulness  and  their  impor- 
tance to  the  public,  there  is  little  doubt  that  they  will  re- 
ceive increased  attention.  The  limits  of  the  present  work 
do  not  allow  much  space  to  be  devoted  to  these,  yet  an 
attempt  will  be  made  to  give  such  hints  and  suggestions 
as  may  be  useful  to  those  who  consider  the  subject. 

BOTH  PRESENT   AND  FUTURE  WANTS  TO  BE  CONSIDERED. 

In  all  cases  where  public  gardens  are  contemplated, 
the  scheme  should  be  comprehensively  conceived  and  ex- 
cuted.  Even  in  initiatory  discussions  of  the  subject,  it 
would  be  unwise  to  have  in  view  merely  the  present 
needs,  but  a  broad  view  of  the  probable  future  growth 
and  wants  of  a  town  should  enter  into  the  calculations. 
The  important  fact  that  results  which  follow  on  such 
improvements  reach  far  into  the  future  must  not  be 
lost  sight  of.  It  is  safe  to  assume  that  most  of  the  pub- 
lic parks  and  gardens,  laid  out  and  planted  now,  will 
figure  as  important  town  gardens  when  our  population 
will,  in  most  places,  have  increased  many  fold.  How 
quickly  that  time  may  arrive,  who  can  tell  ?  Sixty  years 
ago  our  entire  population  was  about  nine  millions,  with 


280  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

but  nine  cities  in  the  Union  of  more  the  ten  thousand 
inhabitants.  Now  we  number  abo.e  fifty  million  of  peo- 
ple, and  we  have  two  hundred  and  fifty  towns  of  more 
than  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  The  child  who  lives 
sixty  years  from  now  may  then  be  one  of  a  population  of 
one  hundred  and  fifty  millions  or  upwards,  in  the  whole 
country,  and  will  witness  a  proportionate  increase  in  the 
average  towns  as  great  or  greater.  Yet  sixty  years  is  a 
comparatively  short  period  in  the  life  of  an  ornamental 
garden.  In  Europe  there  are  many  gardens  that  are 
more  than  four  times  as  old.  Some  of  the  woody  resorts 
in  Kome  have  been  woody  resorts  from  the  time  of  the 
Caesars.  Oaks,  Chestnuts,  and  other  trees  that  enter 
into  gardens  and  parks  as  conspicuous  embellishments 
are  known  to  have  lived  from  five  hundred  to  two  thou- 
sand years,  and  many  of  these  are  only  in  full  prime, 
after  they  have  been  planted  for  a  generation  or  longer. 
All  these  points  suggest  that  the  work  of  public  garden 
making  should  be  fixed  on  the  broad  basis  of  adaptabil- 
ity to  the  wants  of  ages — so  far  as  these  may  be  con- 
jectured— rather  than  solely  to  immediate  needs.  The 
beauty  of  hundreds  of  American  cities,  of  the  next  and 
future  generations,  will  depend  in  a  large  mecasure  on  the 
manner  in  which  the  present  generation  shall  meet  the 
trust  of  initiating  town  embellishments.  The  subject  is 
one  that  ought  to  be  handled  as  wisely  as  its  importance 
deserves,  so  that  in  time,  the  average  of  our  towns  may 
be,  what  they  are  not  yet,  the  most  beautiful  on  the  face 
of  the  globe,  so  far  as  public  gardening  may  serve  to 
make  them  so. 

AN   IDEAL  SYSTEM   OF   PUBLIC  TOWN   GARDENING. 

What  maybe  considered  an  ideal  system  of  public  town 
gardens  ?  Briefly  it  is  one  that  for  the  least  outlay  se- 
cures the  greatest  benefits  in  the  way  of  wholesome  rec- 


PUBLIC    PARKS   AND    PLEASURE   GROUNDS.  281 

reation,  comfort,  beauty,  and  healthf illness,  to  the  greatest 
number  for  the  longest  time.  There  should  be  such  a 
distribution  of  garden  effects  as  to  ensure  accessibility 
from  all  parts  of  the  town,  those  inhabited  by  the  poor 
as  well  as  the  rich,  and  should  contribute  in  the  best 
possible  way  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  whole  place. 
Convenience  and  beauty  should  be  considered  as  import- 
ant in  helping  to  build  up  a  town  as  trade  and  manufac- 
tures are.  So  much  of  attractiveness  should  be  aimed  at 
by  means  of  gardens,  that  few  would  prefer  to  live  per- 
manently out  of  the  town  that  gives  them  their  business. 
And  then  only  that  system,  which  will  provide  for  future 
growth,  ought  to  be  acceptable  with  our  many  growing 
towns.  ' 

"BEAUTIFUL   PARIS "   AS  A   MODEL. 

Among  all  the  cities  of  the  globe,  Paris,  France,  per- 
haps, comes  nearest  to  possessing  such  an  ideal  as  has 
been  outlined.  What  has  given  to  her  the  proud  position 
of  being  the  most  beautiful  city  in  the  world,  has  been, 
as  much  as  anything,  the  admirable  arrangement  of  her 
streets,  gardens,  and  boulevards,  and  the  effective  location 
of  public  structures  throughout  the  city  in  relation  to 
these.  And  this  city,  beautiful,  convenient,  healthful,  and 
economically  governed,  should  prove  an  interesting  one 
for  our  people  to  look  to  as  an  example  in  the  present 
age  of  city  making  for  lessons  in  rendering  our  own  cities 
similarly  attractive. 

In  figure  113  is  shown  a  plan  of  the  boulevard  and 
public  garden  system  of  Paris  (inside  the  walls— more 
than  one  thousand  ordinary  streets  being  omitted),  which 
gives  an  idea  of  the  manner  in  which  these  open  up 
all  parts  of  a  vast  city  of  two  million  of  people,  bringing 
air,  sunshine,  grass,  and  trees — the  latter  in  numbers 
reaching  into  hundreds  of  thousands — so  as  to  leave  no 
part  of  the  town  far  from  some  of  them.  Go  where  one 


282 


ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


will  in  this  metropolis,  and  the  lengths  of  but  a  few 
blocks  can  be  passed  over  without  coming  upon  a  delight- 
ful, airy  avenue,  usually  from  one  hundred  to  two  hun- 
dred feet  wide,  partly  shaded  with  from  two  to  six  rows 
of  trees,  with  inviting  settees  at  close  intervals.  Small 
parks,  varying  from  three  to  forty  acres  each,  are  well  dis- 
tributed, and  mostly  excellent  models  for  town  gardens. 


Fig.  113.— BOULEVARDS  AND  PUBLIC  GARDENS  OF  PARIS. 

A.  the  Louvre  and  Gardens  of  t*io  Tuilories;  B.  Champs  Elys^es;  O,  Arc  of 
Triomphe;  D.  The  Bois  (Paikl  do  Boulogne:  K,  Pare  Mouceau  ;  /''.Square  dea 
Batienolles;  O.  Pare  <les  Butts  Chanmont:  //.  Place  do  la  Bast  le  ;  1,  Place  de 
la  Nation;  J,  Bois  (Park)  de  Viccunncs  ;  A'.  Garden  of  Plants  ;  L.  Luxem- 
bourg Garden;  M,  Pare  Monlsouris:  A,  Frocsdcro  Garden;  O,Wall  ekirted 
by  a  Boulevard. 

As  may  be  seen,  the  general  arrangement  of  boulevards 
was  made  with  a  view  to  convenience,  as  well  as  beauty. 
The  Louvre  at  A  being  the  central  point,  in  general  their 
courses  are  in  diverging  lines  from  this  part — opening 


PUBLIC    PARKS   AND   PLEASURE  GROUNDS.  283 

direct  communications  between  the  center  and  extremi- 
ties. Then  the  cross  boulevards  are  of  a  generally  cir- 
cular arrangement,  an  outer  one  running  along  the  wall, 
around  the  entire  city,  and  thus  every  part  within  the 
wall  is  in  direct  communication  with  every  other  part. 

The  plan  of  our  national  capital,  a  city  which  is  gain- 
ing a  wide  reputation  for  town  beauty,  in  many  respects 
resembles  that  of  Paris,  and  singularly  enough  the  plan 
originated  with  a  Frenchman,  Major  L'Enfant,  of  the 
French  army,  who  assisted  in  Revolutionary  times. 
General  Washington  approved  of  his  plan  and  it  was 
adopted,  the  wisdom  of  which  course  has  since  been  fully 
confirmed,  notwithstanding  that  for  many  years  the  plan 
of  wide  avenues,  circles  and  squares  was  unappreciated. 
Because  the  City  of  Washington,  thus  in  infancy,  secured 
a  plan  of  arrangement  adapted  to  future  growth,  and 
then  in  time  grew  to  fit  it,  she  is  destined  to  surpass 
many  other  cities  in  general  attractiveness,  because 
others,  in  time  past,  were  never  led  into  similar  steps. 
In  such  facts  as  these  may  be  found  lessons  well  to  be 
heeded  by  aspiring  American  towns  at  the  present  time. 

PARIS,    PAST,    PRESENT,    AND  FUTURE. 

So  far  as  details  are  concerned,  no  donbt  the  plan  of 
Paris  would  be  susceptible  of  many  improvements.  It 
must  be  remembered,  however,  that  this  city,  unlike  our 
own  cities,  is  one  of  great  age,  and  that  no  farther  back 
than  the  time  of  Napoleon  III  had  but  few  attractions  in 
the  way  of  town  gardens.  The  present  admirable  system 
of  boulevards  was  secured  only  by  piercing  broad  and 
clear  through  the  solidly  built  and  meanest  parts  of  the 
old  city,  bringing  in  air,  light,  and  trees,  and  working 
general  improvement. 

"It  is  not  many  years,"  says  M.  Robert  Mitchell,  of 
Paris,  in  speaking  of  these  improvements,  "since  the 


284  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

boundaries  of  Paris  inclosed  an  old  city  that  was  a  dis- 
grace to  our  civilization  ;  streets  or  rather  fissures,  with- 
out ventilation,  and  unhealthy  districts  where  an  entire 
population  of  poor  people  were  languishing  and  dying. 
Now,  however,  thanks  to  the  useful  and  important  works 
that  have  lately  been  carried  out,  the  sun  shines  every- 
where, streets  have  been  enlarged,  and  every  one  has 
sufficient  air  to  breathe. 

"Before  the  establishment  of  the  Paris  squares,  the 
existence  of  a  great  number  of  children  was  passed  in 
confined  and  unwholesome  districts.  The  fresh  air  for 
them  was  only  the  threshold  of  a  vitiated  atmosphere. 
They  were  obliged  to  walk  far  before  they  could  find  a 
patch  of  vendure,  or  a  bit  of  country.  The  children 
went  out  but  little,  it  was  thought  useless  to  dress  them 
or  make  them  clean.  How  many  times  have  we  not 
noticed  with  painful  emotions  these  little,  ragged,  pale 
creatures  who  never  apparently  thought  of  the  filth  in 
which  they  were  obliged  to  live. 

"Now,  thank  God,  this  dark  picture  has  become 
bright,  within  a  couple  of  steps  of  even  the  poor  man's 
house,  there  are  trees,  flowers,  and  gravel  walks  where 
the  children  can  run  about,  and  seats  where  their  parents 
may  sit  together  and  talk." 

Great  as  has  been  the  work  of  cutting  the  Paris  boule- 
vards, the  making  of  scores,  perhaps  hundreds  of  miles 
of  others  is  yet  contemplated.  Possessed  of  such  a  spirit 
of  improvement,  the  present  beauty  of  this  famous 
capital,  by  the  help  of  the  gardening  and  other  arts,  is 
easily  accounted  for.  But  Paris  will  go  on  increasing  in 
attractiveness,  and  must  continue  for  time  indefinite  to 
stand  as  a  marked  example  of  what  may  be  done  to  make 
beautiful  and  healthful  cities,  even  under  circumstances 
that  would  appear  on  their  face  most  adverse,  and  far 
more  so  than  anything  known  in  America. 

There  is  another  aspect  of  the  matter  that  ought  to 


PUBLIC   PARKS   AND   PLEASURE   GROUNDS.  285 

interest  us.  Strange  as  it  may  appear,  it  is  a  fact  that 
these  improvements  in  Paris,  have  not  only  been  made 
without  cost  to  the  town,  but  even  with  a  balance  on  the 
right  side,  the  vastly  increased  value  of  the  splendid  new 
sites  for  business  purposes  in  the  improved  parts,  having 
thus  far,  more  than  repaid  all  the  cost  of  the  work. 

THE   LESSON  FOR  AMERICAN  ENTERPRISE. 

Why,  with  our  wealth,  intelligence,  and  foresight,  we 
should  not  in  hundreds  of  instances,  acquire  the  Parisian 
spirit  of  town  improvement  is  hard  to  see.  If  the  means 
at  command  to  do  with,  should  measure  attainable  re- 
sults, it  would  not  always  be  said  that  Paris  is  the  most 
beautiful  city  on  the  face  of  the  globe.  Her  example  is 
now  being  followed  in  other  French  cities,  such  as  Lyons 
and  Rouen,  and  also  elsewhere  in  Europe,  but  where  can. 
we  expect  so  much  in  this  direction  as  in  our  own  land, 
preeminently  favored  in  innumerable  respects  ? 

With  the  majority  of  our  towns,  if  a  comprehensive, 
well  devised  plan,  admitting  of  extension  to  any  required 
degree  would  be  adopted  early,  taking  an  example  from 
Washington  City  in  this  respect,  gains  approximating  in 
character  to  those  acquired  by  Paris  might  soon  be 
reached  with  a  small  corresponding  outlay.  True,  the 
Paris  boulevards,  as  stated,  were  made  without  direct 
pecuniary  loss  on  account  of  the  buildings  that  were  de- 
stroyed, but  where  any  town  can,  by  judicious  action, 
achieve  equal  results  without  making  such  a  sacrifice  of 
property,  the  gain  must  be  greater  yet. 

It  is  on  precisely  these  grounds  that  growing  American 
towns  should  meet  the  case.  Much  of  the  land  needed 
for  complete  systems  of  boulevards,  squares,  and  parks, 
could,  in  many  towns,  be  secured  at  a  low  cost  now,  to  be 
laid  out  and  improved  in  final  details  as  the  place  grows, 
so  that  in  time  advantages,  proportionally  equal  if  not 


286  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

superior  to  those  of  Paris  would  result.  There  are  few 
places  that  could  not  undertake  such  improvements,  in 
some  effective  degree,  and  carry  them  out  successfully, 
without  any  one  greatly  feeling  the  burden.  To  take  a 
practical  view  of  the  matter,  it  may  be  seen  that  a  town 
of  one,  ten,  or  a  hundred  thousand  people,  paying  a 
special  tax  of  but  one  dollar,  for  instance,  per  capita  on 
an  average,  for  initiating  the  work,  and  then  afterwards 
say  twenty  to  fifty  cents  annually  for  improving  and 
keeping,  would  raise  a  sum  of  money,  that  with  the  help 
of  good  plans  and  prudent  management,  would  accom- 
plish results  that  Avould  soon  be  priceless,  and  of  which  all 
could  reap  the  benefit.  It  will  be  no  credit  to  American 
civilization  if  the  opportunities  of  hundreds  of  towns 
now  needing  these  improvements  are  allowed  to  pass  un- 
improved, in  this  latter  third  of  the  ninteenth  century, 
with  all  our  wealth  and  established  prosperity,  and  with 
such  examples  as  we  have  in  Paris  and  other  cities  before 
us — equivalent  lessons  of  which  Paris  herself  in  her 
pioneer  efforts  had  not  the  benefit. 

The  radiating  and  cross  principle  of  town  boulevards, 
such  as  the  French  capital  decided  upon,  should  in  some 
form  and  degree  be  considered  most  desirable  for  adop- 
tion by  our  growing  cities.  With  some  main  avenues 
radiating  from  the  center  outwards,  the  system  is 
adapted  to  a  growth  of  any  extent,  allowing  all  parts  to 
be  readily  reached  from  all  others  at  any  stage  of  growth. 
Besides  the  merit  of  convenience,  a  town  which  thus 
possesses  the  degree  of  irregularity  that  comes  from  such 
a  system  is  beautiful  in  general  appearance,  for  in  cities 
as  in  architecture,  the  prevalence  of  too  much  regularity 
in  the  plan  and  general  lines,  is  not  conducive  to  the 
finest  effects.  Where  it  might  be  found  necessary  for 
carrying  out  such  a  system,  to  open  highways  through 
any  old  thickly  settled  parts,  it  could  often  be  done  as 
advantageously  as  similar  work  in  Parir,  has  been  done. 


PUBLIC    PARKS   AND    PLEASURE   GROUNDS.  287 

THE   LARGE   PARK    SYSTEM. 

If  there  is  one  lesson  more  valuable  than  any  other 
to  be  learned  from  the  park  system  of  Paris — and  con' 
firmed  by  the  experience  of  other  cities  also — it  is  that 
cities  should  depend  upon  boulevards,  squares,  circles, 
and  moderate-sized  parks  for  town  gardens,  rather  than 
exclusively  upon  large,  and,  as  they  often  prove  to  be, 
enormously  expensive  parks.  The  inborn  American 
love  for  doing  great  things,  may  easily  lead  to  the  erroiC 
of  laying  out  large  parks,  when  smaller  ones  would  bet' 
ter  serve  the  purpose.  In  many  cases  a  small  park  of 
five,  ten,  or  forty  acres,  well  arranged  and  cared  for,  is 
capable  of  more  fully  serving  every  true  want  which  calls 
for  a  town  garden,  than  a  large  one  of  hundreds  of  acres. 

The  desire  for  large  parks  for  large  cities  need  not  be 
an  unworthy  one,  but  discrimination  should  be  made 
between  such  as  are  largely  made  up  of  artificial  decora' 
tive  garden  work,  and  very  costly  in  construction  and 
maintenance,  and  those  of  such  a  nature  that  a  large 
degree  of  a  natural  kind  of  park  attractions  and  benefits 
are  secured  for  a  comparatively  small  outlay. 

In  the  vicinity  of  almost  every  town  there  are  sites  not 
far  distant,  possessing  natural  beauty  in  landscape,  wood, 
and  water,  well  suited  for  a  park,  and  which  may  be 
bought  at  a  moderate  cost.  One  or  more  new  tracts  of 
such  land,  of  almost  any  extent,  may  be  secured  and  con^ 
verted  into  a  park  or  system  of  parks,  on  some  simple, 
well  considered  plan,  having  in  view  the  presenting  of 
nature  in  her  most  attractive  moods.  Such  a  park, 
if  so  managed  as  to  leave  it  mainly  in  a  wild  state, 
both  now  and  in  the  future,  may  be  made  most  de- 
lightful as  a  ground  for  public  recreation,  either  alone, 
or  as  a  part  of  a  system  embracing  some  more  highly 
improved  gardens  in  the  town.  The  wet  places  must  be 
drained,  some  graceful  driveways  with  a  natural  appear- 


288  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

ance  constructed,  making  them  either  of  substantial  mate- 
rial or  depending  in  a  measure  on  earth  roads  for  summer 
driving,  as  is  done  in  the  Eichmond  Park  in  the  outskirts 
of  London.  Trees,  shrubs,  and  plants,  for  desirable  new 
groves,  masses,  and  wilds,  may  be  planted,  shelters  erect- 
ed, and  other  improvements  introduced.  Then  under  cer- 
tain mild  regulations,  allowing  and  providing  for  forest  rov- 
ing,boating,  carriage  driving,  horse-back  riding  over  mead- 
ow and  hill,  and  other  privileges  of.  great  freedom,  such  a 
semi-natural  park  might  be  rendered  immeasurably  valu- 
able as  public  recreation  grounds.  By  introducing  herds 
of  cattle,  sheep,  or  deer,  restrained  by  hurdles  to  keep 
down  the  grass  of  meadows,  a  desirable  attraction  would 
be  gained,  and  at  the  same  time  the  expense  of  mowing 
such  portions  of  the  park  be  obviated. 

A  park  or  parks  of  such  character,  not  so  far  off  but 
that  they  might  be  reached  by  carriages,  street  cars,  or 
the  railroad,  and  then  several  small,  well  kept  parks  and 
boulevards,  in  and  near  the  town,  to  provide  garden 
beauty,  fresh  air,  and  comfort,  near  the  center  of  popu- 
lation, to  benefit  every  body  every  day,  it  is  believed  may 
together  afford  the  elements  of  a  complete  public  garden 
system,  more  fully  for  a  certain  expenditure  than  in  any 
other  way. 

GARDEN   BOULEVARDS. 

The  idea  of  the  Paris  boulevards  one  hundred  to  two 
hundred  feet  wide,  has  been  for  sometime  adopted  on  a 
small  scale  by  a  number  of  our  cities.  A  common 
width  of  these  is  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet, 
and  arranged  with  a  wide  center  space,  supporting 
four  rows  of  trees,  or  irregular  arrangements  of  trees, 
shrubs,  and  plants,  with  walks,  settees,  fountains,  etc., 
and  on  each  side  a  driveway  and  a  side  walk,  next  to  the 
private  property.  Narrower  boulevards  are  planted  with 
two  rows  of  trees  in  the  middle,  and  a  row  at  each  side, 


PUBLIC   PARKS  AND   PLEASURE  GROUNDS.          289 

while  still  wider  ones  sometimes  have  a  middle  and  two 
side  driveways,  with  trees  on  the  plats  between.  Such 
boulevards,  or  park-ways  as  they  are  also  called,  deserve  to 
be  far  more  widely  introduced,  as  means  of  augmenting 
town  beauty,  and  creating  air  spaces,  where  pure  breezes 
may  have  some  vantage  ground  in  cities. 

But  there  is  an  enlarged  form  of  boulevard  that  is  enti- 
tled to  consideration  in  American  town  gardening,  where- 
ever  something  more  stately  and  complete  is  desired.  I 
refer  to  the  Grand  Garden  Boulevard,  about  four  hun- 
dred feet  wide,  and  of  which  in  Paris  there  are  several 
illustrations.  One  of  these  might  even  be  introduced  as 
a  substitute  for  a  city  park  ;  possessing  all  of  its  advan- 
tages, and  a  number  in  addition,  with  but  few  of  its 
disadvantages. 

In  such  a  grand  boulevard,  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
or  more  wide,  a  breadth  and  length  of  base  is  secured, 
that  affords  a  chance  for  various  garden  effects  impos- 
sible in  a  narrower  area.  Long,  ample,  and,  if  desired, 
winding  drives,  approximating  closely  to  those  of  a  large 
park,  are  attainable,  while  the  liberal  width  allows  of  a 
free  arrangement  of  walks,  bridle  paths,  groups  of  trees, 
shrubs,  and  flowers,  and  open  areas  of  lawn.  Even  lake- 
lets, rockwork,  arbors,  etc.,  in  varied  extent,  maybe  in- 
troduced with  little  loss  of  fine  effects,  as  compared  with 
large  parks. 

Figure  114  illustrates  a  garden  boulevard,  four  hundred 
and  thirty  feet  wide,  with  great  and  small  circles,  and 
narrow  boulevards  and  streets,  that  open,  into  it  of  two 
hundred,  one  hundred  and  fifty,  and  one  hundred  feet  in 
width.  The  plan  shows  two  styles  of  laying  out :  the 
lower  part  in  the  park,  and  the  upper  in  the  avenue  style. 
But  in  both,  the  natural  style  of  arrangement  mostly 
prevails.  In  addition  to  the  main  garden  drives,  there 
are  walk-bordered  roadways  for  traffic  along  each  side, 
and  into  which  private  walks  and  drives  open. 
13 


290 


ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


Such  an  avenue  gar- 
den, in  good  shape,  ex- 
0    *S«S  tending  either  as  a  main 
JUT  ""Jl  jl  y£223  fcature  of  a  system  of 
^     B^a    //   9//        boulevards  and  parks  or 
s^^^^^^v        not,  for  one  or  any  num- 
,    ^«^PV??5v?^    ber  of  miles  through  a 

town,  with  wide  circles 
at  central  points,  sup- 
porting town  halls,  art 
galleries,  museums,  con- 
servatories, or  other  edi- 
fices, and  small  circles 
at  junctionswith  streets, 
containing  monuments, 
statuary,  or  fountains, 
present  an  array  of  fine 
qualities  difficult  to 
equal.  Add  to  this  the 
area  that  on  each  side 
throughout  the  length, 
is  embraced  by  private 
grounds,  with  residences 
setting  back,  let  us  sup- 
pose, at  an  average  dis- 
tance of  about  thirty 
feet,  and  altogether  a 
garden  is  presented  in 
effect,  about  five  hun- 
dred feet  wide,  from 
house  to  house,  and 
stretching  far  away, 
which  for  grandeur, 
richness,  variety,  and 
healthf  ulness,  stands  un- 
equalled by  any  other 
Fig.  HI-GARDEN  BOULEVARD.  kind  of  town  garden. 


PUBLIC   PARKS   AND   PLEASURE   GROUNDS.          291 

The  roomy  circles  shown  in  the  plan  are  features  of 
this  system  that  must  not  be  underrated.  Any  structures 
of  pleasing  proportions  built  on  these,  will  show  to  the 
best  possible  architectural  advantage,  and  the  value  of 
any  such  in  contributing  to  the  effective  appearance  of  a 
town,  is  virtually  multiplied  by  the  number  of  streets 
centering  here — opening  up  vistas  through  which  they 
are  seen  from  a  distance.  Let  us  imagine  the  effect  on  a 
town  of  having  its  imposing  edifices  located  on  great  cir- 
cles, like  the  one  shown  at  the  top  of  figure  114,  into 
which,  in  this  case,  twelve  streets  and  avenues  open  from 
different  directions.  The  beauty  of  a  structure  placed 
here  would  benefit  a  large  part  of  the  town,  because 
in  effect,  belonging  as  an  objective  point  to  each  street 
diverging  from  it.  Yet  we  constantly  build  towns  in 
such  a  way  that  much  of  our  attractive  architecture  is 
buried  between  masses  of  buildings  and  is  only  to  be  seen 
when  it  is  reached.  The  secret  of  the  magnificence  of 
cities  like  Paris,  Edinburgh,  and  Washington,  is  largely 
found  in  such  an  arrangement  of  streets,  edifices,  and 
gardens,  that  they  all  contribute  their  full  worth  to- 
wards producing  a  grand,  harmonious  effect,  with  many 
of  the  avenues  leading  towards  imposing  structures,  which 
then  are  seen  through  vistas  of  tree  and  garden  beauty, 
that  afford  refreshing  relief  to  the  architecture. 

It  is  for  growing  towns  to  note,  that  the  city  which 
succeeds  by  proper  plans  to  so  dispose  of  leading  streets, 
public  edifices,  town  gardens  and  parks,  that  each  is 
used  to  the  best  advantage,  is  the  one  that  secures  the 
greatest  amount  of  town  attractiveness,  and  with  the 
least  expenditure  of  material  and  money. 

Not  least  among  the  advantages  of  garden  boulevards, 
is  economy  in  the  area  employed,  in  proportion  to  the  ef- 
fects gained.  A  smaller  number  of  acres  is  required  for 
a  given  length  of  these  than  might  be  supposed.  One 
four  hundred  and  thirty  feet  wide,  would  require  to  the 


292  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING, 

mile,  about  forty  acres  of  land,  not  counting  the  two 
side  roads,  which  are  required  as  highways  in  any  case. 
How  could  a  better  use  for  say  one  hundred  and  twenty 
acres  be  imagined  as  a  large  town  garden,  than  in  one 
such  a  broad  garden  boulevard,  with  all  its  varied 
beauty  and  numerous  circles,  supporting  attractive  archi- 
tecture, stretching  away  for  three  continuous  miles? 

A  GLANCE  AT  CENTRAL  PARK,  NEW  YORK. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  note  here  that  out  of  seven 
hundred  and  fifty  acres — the  area  embraced  by  the  well 
known  Central  Park  of  New  York,  there  could  have  been 
made  boulevards  of  the  great  length  of  six  miles,  and 
four  hundred  and  thirty  feet  wide  (not  counting  side 
drives),  and  fourteen  miles  of  boulevards,  from  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  to  two  hundred  feet  wide,  besides 
six  parks  of  from  fifteen  to  forty  acres  each,  and  still 
have  fifty  acres  for  large  circles,  and  leaving  sixty  acres 
for  the  purpose  of  securing  a  large,  natural  park  at  some 
distance  away. 

If  the  equivalent  of  Central  Park  area  had  been 
managed  on  a  plan  something  as  shown  by  figure  115,  af- 
fording superior  sites  for  museums,  fountains,  statuary, 
etc.,  and  also  for  other  town  buildings,  that  are  mostly 
now  hidden  away,  can  it  be  doubted  that  far  better  ef- 
fects would  have  been  secured  for  the  beauty  of  the  city, 
and  adding  in  many  ways  to  its  desirability  as  a  place  of 
residence,  than  has  been  wrought  by  the  present  system? 

In  considering  the  subject  of  Public  Gardens  generally, 
one  may  be  pardoned  for  questioning,  as  they  see  the 
state  of  neglect  and  decay  so  conspicuous  in  late  years  in 
this  noted  garden,  what  its  future  is  to  be,  and  what  its 
influence  upon  the  development  of  upper  New  York. 

If  the  blame  for  this  is  laid  to  corruption  in  the  man- 
agement, more  than  to  the  circumstances  of  its  make  up, 


PUBLIC   PARKS    AND   PLEASURE   GROUNDS. 


293 


size  and  location,  it  may  be  said  that  as  the  complete  boul- 
evard and  small  park  system  afford  in  great  measure  a  reme- 
dy against  the  defects  of  the 
latter  nature,  so  the  same 
system  affords  certain  safe- 
guards against  extreme  mis- 
management not  possessed 
by  large  parks.  The  garden 
avenues  extending  a  great 
length  through  a  town,  are 
in  all  their  details  brought 
face  to  face  with  a  large 
body  of  taxpayers,  and  mis- 
management is  exposed  and 
becomes  intolerable.  At 
best  but  a  small  portion  of 
all  the  people  of  a  town 
can  visit  the  large  parks 
often,  hence  wholesale  mis- 
management frequently  goes 
on  without  detection  or 
check  for  a  long  time.  And 
it  is  significant  that  if  parks 
once  happen  to  fall  into  a 
state  of  neglect  and  decay, 
they  are  liable  to  be  shun- 
ned even  by  many  of  the 
otherwise  regular  visitors. 
A  lesson  may  be  taken  also 
from  the  unpleasant  reputa- 
tion which  to  some  extent 
is  associated  with  Central 
Park  as  a  resort  of  the  vici- 
ous classes,  against  con-  Fjg- 115.— CENTRAL  PARK  AS  IT 

,  ,  .  ,  MIGHT    HAVE   BEEN. 

structing  any  large  parks, 

abounding  in  much  close  wood  near  the  present  or  future 


294  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

centers  of  large  towns.  It  is  a  question  whether  this  is 
not  a  state  of  things  hard  to  disassociate  from  such  a 
combination  of  circumstances  in  any  place.  In  propor- 
tion as  any  system  o!  centrally  located  town  gardens  can 
dispense  with  all  woody  solitudes  (for  such  the  clumps  of 
woods  become  after  nightfall),  and  instead  have  much 
openness,  with  small  clumps  of  trees  and  shrubs,  this 
serious  fault  is  lessened.  One  great  recommendation  for 
boulevards  and  small  parks,  in  the  midst  of  cities,  is,  that 
from  their  comparative  narrowness  and  openness,  they 
offer  few  special  attractions  to  the  viciously  inclined. 

Turning  from  all  that  has  been  done  in  Paris  ill  im- 
proving the  city,  by  opening  up  the  boulevard  and  small 
park  system,  there  would  be  nothing  wild  in  the  idea  of 
adopting  in  New  York  now,  a  system  of  parks  and  boule- 
vards, something  as  shown  in  figure  115,  and  just  sug- 
gested, dispensing  entirely  with  Central  Park  as  it  now  is. 
Such  a  move  in  New  York  would  no  doubt  be  attended, 
as  something  similar  in  Paris  ha3  been,  by  many 
important  advantages,  not  excepting  that  of  profit 
from  a  financial  point  of  view.  The  present  marvel- 
lously attractive  Pare  Monceau,  of  Paris,  was  formerly 
much  larger  than  it  now  is,  but  the  improvers  of  the  city 
saw  the  policy  of  cutting  it  down,  and  along  with  other 
improvements,  reduced  it  to  less  than  half  its  former  size, 
selling  the  cut  off  portions  for  residences  at  enormous  rates. 
By  a  similar  course  with  the  larger  New  York  Park, 
the  city  would  gain  directly  in  two  ways,  first  by  getting 
rid  of  a  park  that  in  more  than  one  respect  is  too  large, 
considering  its  location,  and  instead,  drawing  it  out,  so  to 
speak,  in  order  that  it  may  contribute  beauty,  healthful- 
ness,  and  convenience  to  many  parts  now  deprived  of  them. 

SMALL  TOWN    PARKS. 

These,  if  well  arranged,  may  be  made  to  afford  a  good 
and  varied  show  of  park-like  features,  in  a  compass  so 


PUBLIC   PARKS  AND    PLEASURE   GROUNDS.  295 

limited,  that  in  large  towns  tne  land  may  be  secured  at 
points   that  are 'readily  accessible  by  the  masses,  while 


Fig.  116. — PLAN  OF  A  TEN- ACHE  PARK. 

A.. Main  Grass  Plat ;  B,  Lakelet;  C,  Rill,  f  »d  by  Spring  from  Fockwork  at  D ;  E,  Bridge; 
F,  Arbor ;  6,  Drive ;  H,  Concourse;  I,  Walks  enlarged  In  Shady  Places ;  J,  Urinal. 

small  towns  and  villages  that  could  not  afford  extended 
garden  systems,  may  have  one  or  more  parks  of  this  kind. 


296  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

Undoubtedly  many  small  cities  and  .towns  are  to-day 
debarred  from  having  a  park,  from  the  false  notion  that 
one  such,  to  be  worthy  of  the  name,  must  be  large,  or  at 
any  rate  very  expensive.  Such  is  not,  however,  the  case. 
Figure  116  is  a  plan  of  a  ten-acre  park,  showing  how 
much  of  garden  and  landscape  attractiveness  even  a  small 
area  like  this  may  be  made  to  yield.  Here  are  some 
hundreds  of  trees  and  flowering  shrubs ;  open  areas  of 
lawn,  the  largest  one  about  two  acres  in  size,  lakelet, 
rill,  spring  (natural  or  artificial),  mound,  rockery, 
bridges,  arbors,  flowers,  ample  walks,  play  grounds,  etc., 
all  disposed  in  a  simple  and  largely  natural  style,  and  for 
showing  boldness  of  character  throughout.  A  short 
drive  is  also  introduced.  In  parks  of  fifteen,  twenty-five, 
or  more  acres,  these  may  be  brought  in  more  freely,  and 
there  is  greater  latitude  for  creating  fine  garden  effects. 

A  glance  at  the  map  of  Paris,  figure  113,  shows  a  wise 
distribution  of  small  parks  through  a  large  city.  In 
that  city  about  two  hundred  acres,  divided  into  a  dozen 
parks  of  from  three  to  forty  acres  each,  are  thus  employ- 
ed. These  exquisite  gardens  are  productive  of  an  im- 
mense amount  of  comfort,  pleasure,  and  healthfulness  to 
the  Parisians,  and  undoubtedly  far  more  so,  than  if  all 
were  instead  included  in  a  single  large  town  park. 

It  is  a  great  recommendation  for  small  town  parks, 
that  in  our  hot,  dry  summers,  they  could  in  many  places 
be  kept  watered,  with  the  effect  of  constantly  having 
fresh,  green  lawns  and  foliage,  a  thing  proportionally 
more  difficult  as  a  park  is  larger.  In  fact  it  is  just  at 
this  season,  when  of  all  others  we  most  enjoy  cool,  green 
lawns,  that  the  large  parks  are  so  parched  up  as  to  be 
quite  disagreeable. 

Where  Botanical,  Zoological,  or  other  collections  are  to 
be  secured,  small  sized  parks,  if  not  too  small,  are  well 
adapted  to  accommodating  them. 


PUBLIC   PARKS   AND   PLEASURE   GROUNDS.  297 

TOWN    SQUARES. 

No  parts  of  a  town  have  greater  need  of  garden  spots, 
than  those  that  are  thickly  settled.  Often  there  is  a 
square  of  one  or  several  acres,  or  one  could  be  made  in 
places  not  admitting  a  larger  square.  But  such  plats  are 
susceptible  of  being  rendered  much  more  attractive  than 
they  usually  are.  They  should  neither  be  exclusively 
devoted  to  trees  for  shade,  nor  be  barren  of  them.  A 
mean  between  the  two,  providing  for  an  abundance  of 
air,  breeze,  and  sunshine,  by  keeping  them  well  open  in 
parts,  and  then  grass,  masses  of  trees  and  shrubs,  flowers 
and  walks  tastefully  arranged  here  and  there  should  be 
secured. 

Figures  117  and  118  represent  two  small  squares,  laid 
out  on  simple  geometrical  plans.  The  first  has  a  grassy 


Fig.  117.  Fig.  lia 

DESIGNS  FOB  SMALL  TOWN  SQUARES. 

center,  with  a  continuous  flower-bed  next  to  the  walk, 
save  a  narrow  strip  of  grass  between.  Seats  may  be 
placed  in  the  depressions  shown  in  the  walks  on  four 
sides.  The  woody  growths  may  be  both  shrubs  and 
trees,  arranged  in  masses  as  shown  in  the  plan.  Figure 
118  has  a  square  gravelled  surface  in  the  center,  upon 
which  is  located  a  drinking  fountain,  piece  of  statuary, 
or  candelabrum. 

As  a  rule,  the  more  simple  a  plan  of  this  kind  is,  the 


298  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

better.  Sometimes,  owing  to  strong  architectural  in- 
fluences, the  introduction  of  terraces,  elaborate  flower- 
beds, and  other  similar  features  is  proper  in  squares. 
But  even  then  the  plan  should  be  essentially  simple  as  it 
whole. 

To  have  a  small  square,  or  park  of  any  size,  in  fine  con- 
dition in  thickly  settled  parts,  and  abounding  in  refresh- 
ing natural  attractions,  it  must  above  all  else  be  properly 
protected  by  a  fence  with  gates,  after  the  universal  Euro- 
pean fashion.  This  is  absolutely  necessary  for  keeping  out 
that  greatest  of  all  enemies  to  low  flowers,  shrubs,  and 
evergreens,  dogs.  These  enjoy  running  and  playing  in 
such  places,  and  by  their  lawless,  and  worst  of  all,  filthy 
habits,  in  time  kill  every  fine  shrub  or  plant.  But  fences 
may  be  made  inconspicuous,  and  not  more  than  three  or 
four  feet  high,  if  built  of  pointed  pickets.  A  single 
width  of  coarse  wire  netting,  with  meshes  two  or  three 
inches  wide,  fixed  against  the  fence  next  to  the  ground, 
will  keep  out  all  small  animals,  and  besides  protect  the 
place  from  paper  and  litter  that  are  swept  along  the 
streets  by  the  wind.  Then  the  admission  of  dogs  at  the 
gates  should  be  strictly  prohibited,  unless  they  are  led 
by  a  cord  or  chain. 

PLANTING   PUBLIC   HIGHWAYS. 

All  over  this  land,  both  in  city  and  country,  there  is 
an  inexcusable  lack  of  shade  and  ornamental  trees  at  the 
road  sides.  Foreigners  wonder  at  this,  as  they  find  here 
a  land  rich  in  fine  native  trees,  and  an  apparent  lack  of 
appreciation  of  their  value.  Throughout  Europe  the 
country  roads  are  very  commonly,  and  often  for  many 
miles  in  a  stretch,  made  beautiful  and  comfortable  by  the 
use  of  trees. 

If  a  persistent  effort  were  made  at  once  to  plant  trees 
along  the  highways,  and  to  care  for  them,  the  next  fifty, 


PUBLIC   PARKS  AND   PLEASURE   GROUNDS.  299 

or  even  ten  years,  would  mark  a  greater  change  for  the 
better  in  the  general  appearance  of  our  rural  districts, 
then  has  taken  place  since  the  lands  were  cleared.  Such 
an  improvement  would  tend  to  greatly  increase  the  values 
of  lands,  and  besides,  who  can  measure  the  increase  of 
comfort  to  be  gained  for  every  living  thing ;  in  summer 
by  abundant  shade  ;  in  winter  by  breaking  the  force  of 
piercing  winds,  not  to  speak  of  advantages  as  effecting 
rainfalls  and  drouths. 

In  some  of  the  States  of  late,  laws  have  been  made  to 
encourage  tree  planting,  by  paying  a  bounty  from  the 
State  treasury,  to  those  who  plant  and  protect  trees.  In 
Connecticut  an  act  provides,  that  any  person  planting 
and  protecting  forest  trees  for  one-quarter  of  a  mile  or 
more  along  any  public  highway,  may  receive,  for  ten 
years,  one  dollar  per  annum  for  each  quarter  of  a  mile  so 
planted.  In  some  instances,  public  spirited  individuals 
have  offered  prizes  of  forty,  twenty-five,  twenty,  and 
fifteen  dollars  for  the  best  and  largest  rows  of  trees  along 
any  public  road  of  a  town,  the  award  to  be  made  by 
three  non-resident  experts.  It  is  shown  that  bounties 
and  prizes  thus  offered  stimulate  a  great  interest  in  the 
work  of  planting  trees  on  public  roads. 

In  planting  street  trees,  the  common  arrangement  in 
rows  with  the  trees  at  equal  distances  apart,  is  not  the 
only  one,  or  perhaps  not  always  the  best.  Too  mnch  of  such 
planting  tends  to  monotony.  The  rows  should  be  broken 
now  and  then,  by  setting  the  trees  more  irregularly, 
placing  some  close  together  on  both  sides  of  the  walk  to 
form  clumps,  and  then  leaving  open  spaces  elsewhere. 
In  figure  107,  and  also  in  the  lower  half  of  figure  114, 
this  idea  is  illustrated.  Monotony  may  be  further  broken 
by  introducing  different  kinds  of  trees,  keeping  each 
somewhat  by  itself. 

A  common  fault  in  this  work  is,  to  plant  so  close  that 
the  trees  have  no  chance  to  develop  their  beauty.  This 


300  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

often  comes  from  a  desire  to  have  a  plenty  of  shade  at 
once.  The  better  way  is  to  plant  some  trees  to  be  per- 
manent, say  at  thirty-five  or  forty  feet  apart  for  Elms,  and 
twenty-five  for  other  kinds  of  forest  trees,  and  then  to 
set  rapid-growing  kinds,  like  the  Poplars,  Silver  Maple, 
Ailanthus,  Catalpa,  and  European  Alder,  between  these, 
to  be  removed  when  the  better  kinds  need  the  space.  If 
but  two  trees  are  needed  in  front  of  any  premises,  plant 
three,  the  middle  one  a  fast  grower,  to  be  removed  before 
many  years. 

BUBAL   IMPBOVEMENT   ASSOCIATIONS. 

The  movements  on  foot  in  some  places  for  establishing 
these  associations,  and  having  in  view  as  a  chief  object 
the  beautifying  of  towns  and  villages,  by  planting  trees, 
improving  roadsides,  and  town  gardens,  is  a  most  worthy 
one,  and  their  universal  introduction  would  soon  work 
great  changes  in  the  appearance  of  towns  and  villages. 
Through  the  kindness  of  the  Hon.  B.  F.  Northrop,  of 
Clinton,  Conn.,  who  has  been  prominent  in  establishing 
these  associations,  I  am  able  to  present  the  following  plan, 
which  was  adopted  by  the  village  in  which  he  lives. 

CLINTON  RURAL  IMPROVEMENT  ASSOCIATION. 

1.  This  Association  shall  be  called  "  The  Rural  Improvement 
Association  of  Clinton." 

2.  The  object  of  this  Association  shall  be  to  cultivate  public 
spirit,  quicken  the  social  and  intellectual  life  of  the  people, 
promote  good  fellowship,  and  secure  public  health  by  better 
hygienic  conditions  in  our  homes  and  surroundings,  improve 
our  streets,  roads,  public  grounds,  side-walks,  and  in  general  to 
build  up  and  beautify  the  whole  town,  and  thus  enhance  the 
value  of  its  real  estate  and  render  Clinton  a  still  more  inviting 
place  of  residence. 

3.  The  officers  of  this  Association  shall  consist  of  a  President, 
a  Vice-President,  a  Treasurer,  a  Secretary,  and  an  Executive 
Committee  of  fifteen,  six  of  whom  shall  be  ladies. 

4.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  Executive  Committee  to  make 


GARDEN    CEMETERIES.  301 

all  contracts,  employ  all  laborers,  expend  all  moneys,  and 
superintend  all  improvements  made  by  the  Association.  They 
shall  hold  meetings  monthly  from  April  to  October  in  each 
year,  and  as  much  of tener  as  they  may  deem  expedient. 

5.  Every  person,  who  shall  plant  three  trees  by  the  road  side, 
under  the  direction  of  the  Executive  Committee,  or  pay  three 
dollars  in  one  year,  or  one  dollar  annually,  and  obligate  himself 
or  herself  to  pay  the  same  annually  for  three  years,  shall  be  a 
member  of  this  Association. 

6.  The  payment  of  ten  dollars  annually  for  three  years,  or  of 
twenty-five  dollars  in  one  sum,   shall   constitute  one  a  life 
member  of  this  Association. 

7.  Five  members  of  the  Executive  Committee  present  at  any 
meeting  shall  constitute  a  quorum. 

8.  No  debt  shall  be  contracted  by  the  Executive  Committee 
beyond  the  amount  of  available  means  within  their  control, 
and  no  member  of  the  Association  shall  be  liable  for  any  debt 
of  the  Association,  beyond  the  amount  of  his  or  her  subscription. 

9.  The  Executive  Committee  shall  call  an  annual  meeting, 
giving  due  notice  of  the  same,  for  the  election  of  officers  of  this 
Association,  and  at  said  meeting,  shall  make  a  detailed  report 
of  all  moneys  received  and  expended  during  the  year,  the 
number  of  trees  planted  under  their  direction,  and  the  number 
planted  by  individuals,  length  of  side-walks  made  or  repaired, 
and  the  doings  of  the  Committee  in  general. 

10.  This  constitution  may  be  amended  at  any  annual  meeting 
by  a  two-thirds  vote  of  the  members  present  and  voting. 


CHAPTER    XXVIII. 

GARDEN  CEMETERIES. 

So  excellent  in  almost  every  respect  are  many  of  the 
large  garden  cemeteries  of  our  country,  that  all  that  may 
be  said  in  praise  of  them — and  much  praise  is  thus  be- 
stowed botli  at  home  and  by  foreigners — is  usually  well 
merited.  But  what  on  the  other  hand  can  be  said  of  the 
strongly  contrasted  condition  of  thousands  of  small,  old- 


302  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

fashioned  grave-yards,  which  we  all  have  met  throughout 
the  land,  in  a  terribly  neglected  condition,  overgrown 
with  weeds,  rank  grass,  and  tangled  brush.  The  only 
way  in  which  the  condition  of  these  can  be  reconciled,  is 
to  look  upon  them  as  relics  of  a  pioneer  period.  They 
are  like  the  "log-huts"  of  past  generations,  old  and 
faulty,  but  endeared  to  us  by  the  ties  that  bind  the  de- 
parted dead  to  the  living.  Everywhere  in  the  older  sec- 
tions of  the  country,  log-houses  and  barns  have  given 
place  to  tasteful  and  often  costly  buildings,  representatives 
of  the  increased  prosperity  of  the  community,  but  many 
times  in  the  same  community  the  burial  place  is  still  in 
the  "log-hut "style. 

If  the  people  were  satisfied  to  have  them  thus,  no 
words  of  condemnation  of  such  grounds — suggestive  of 
cold  and  selfish  forgetfulness — would  be  too  strong.  But 
believing  that  the  dissatisfaction  with  these  is  wide- 
spread, and  that  the  present  condition  is  due  more  to  not 
knowing  what  to  do,  than  to  a  disposition  against  doing, 
we  may  feel  hopeful  of  better  things  in  time  to  come. 

Indeed,  we  think  there  is  enough  love  for  the  beautiful, 
enough  wealth  and  enterprise,  and  enough  respect  for  the 
dead  in  every  section  of  country,  to  make  and  keep  the 
burial  places  nearly  or  quite  as  well  as  those  of  the  large 
cities  to-day  are  kept.  These  grounds  are  usually  of  a 
few  acres,  but  the  joint  property  of  hundreds  of  able  per- 
sons, and  actually  representatives  in  every  community  of 
large  sums  of  money.  The  arguments  that  force  them- 
selves upon  every  one's  good  sense,  in  favor  of  having 
these  small  areas  in  good  and  even  beautiful  shape,  out 
of  respect  for  their  hallowed  use,  ought  to  be  overpower- 
ing in  aid  of  any  movement  in  the  direction  of  their  im- 
provement, and  in  every  neighborhood  there  ought  to  be 
the  persons  ready  to  lead  in  and  encourage  the  work. 

That  which  contributes  most  largely  to  the  beauty  of 
the  improved  city  cemeteries,  are  the  garden  features  in- 


GARDEN   CEMETERIES.  303 

troduced.  How  appropriate  in  this  country  of  cheap 
land  is  the  idea  to  have  all  burial  places,  fair-sized, 
roomy,  landscape  gardens,  varied  with  wood,  groves, 
and  single  trees,  lawns  and  flowers,  arranged  in  good 
taste,  with  simple  memorials  to  indicate  the  places  of 
interment. 

The  key  to  the  superior  appearance  of  our  leading 
cemeteries,  is  the  fact  that  the  prices  at  which  all  lots 
are  sold,  are  fixed  with  a  view  to  the  expense  of  per- 
petually keeping  the  cemetery  in  order.  This  must  be 
looked  upon  as  one  of  the  most  important  points  con- 
nected with  improved  cemetery  management.  To  the  ob- 
servance, or  non-observance  of  this  is  due  the  vast  differ- 
ence between  the  best  and  the  poorest  of  our  rural  ceme- 
teries. 

As  the  incidental  expenses  of  keeping  up  any  cemetery 
lot  by  sodding,  mowing,  etc.,  are  very  light,  when  many 
are  taken  care  of  together,  only  a  small  increase  in  the 
prices  of  lots  is  required  to  form  a  general  fund,  the  in- 
terest of  which  provides  perpetually  for  their  care.  In 
the  beautiful  Forest  Lawn  Cemetery,  of  Buffalo,  con- 
taining two  hundred  and  thirty  acres,  the  price  of  lots  is 
fixed  at  fifty  cents  per  square  foot,  while  in  the  new 
Buffalo  City  Cemetery,  a  few  miles  further  from  the  city, 
the  price  is  but  twenty-five  cents  per  square  foot.  These 
prices  apply  to  all  parts  of  the  cemeteries,  but  then  some 
sections  accommodate  lots  of  only  one  size,  and  others 
allow  of  lots  of  other  sizes.  Of  course  where  land  is 
cheap,  the  price  can  be  kept  at  even  lower  figures  than 
either  of  those  named. 

How  is  the  work  of  cemetery  improvement  in  any  case 
to  be  inaugurated  and  carried  out  ?  First,  let  persons 
of  public  spirit  carefully  look  over  the  matter,  determin- 
ing what  improvements  are  desirable,  as  to  size  of 
grounds,  and  whether  it  is  better  to  change  the  old  or  to 
start  an  entirely  new  cemetery.  If  an  old  association 


304  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

exists,  that  can  be  strengthened  for  carrying  out  the  new 
purpose,  let  it  be  done  and  put  to  work,  if  not,  then  a 
new  organization  should  be  formed. 

As  to  cemetery  officers,  there  should  be  a  Board  of 
Trustees,  composed  of  from  five  to  twelve  men,  to  be 
chosen  by  the  lot  holders.  The  election  should  be  yearly, 
aud  the  term  of  office  not  less  than  three  years,  with  an 
"rrangement  by  which  one  or  two  trustees  go  out  each 


Fig.    119.— A  GARDEN  CEMETERY  OF  FIFTEEN   ACRES. 

year,  and  the  same  number  of  new  or  re-elected  ones 
come  in.  All  affairs  of  the  Association  and  the  property, 
should  be  managed  by  this  Board,  the  members  acting 
without  compensation.  In  addition  to  the  trustees,  a 
secretary  and  treasurer  should  be  appointed  by  the  Board. 
Reports  should  be  required  annually  from  the  officers  by 
the  lot- holders.  There  are  laws  in  the  different  States 


GARDEN   CEMETERIES.  305 

bearing  upon  cemeteries,  and  these  should  be  procured 
to  aid,  where  necessary,  in  perfecting  the  organization. 

As  regards  the  location  of  the  improved  cemetery,  if 
lands  can  be  procured  for  enlargement  of  the  old  grave- 
yard, lying  directly  adjacent,  there  are  obvious  reasons 
why  this  should  be  done,  making  such  alterations  as  to 
adapt  it  to  the  new  plan.  If  this  cannot  be  done,  some 
advantages  might  be  found  in  starting  a  new  cemetery, 
but  this  would  in  part,  at  least,  be  offset  by  tho  trouble 
incident  to  keeping  up  the  old  one  and  making  removals. 

The  size  and  plan  of  the  cemetery,  are  matters  so  inti- 
mately associated  with  the  needs  of  respective  communi- 
ties, and  with  the  style  of  arrangement,  that  anything  said 


Fig.  130. — A   GARDEN   CEMETERY  OF  THREE   ACRES. 

on  this  point  must  be  general.  There  are  several  things 
that  should  have  weight  in  deciding  as  to  size  of  the 
grounds,  such  as  the  probable  wants  of  the  future,  taking 
growth  of  population  into  consideration.  A  scant  area 
limits  the  possibilities  of  the  gardener  in  producing  broad, 
pleasing  effects.  On  the  other  hand,  the  larger  the  area, 
the  more  expensive  will  it  be  to  keep  up.  It  would  in 
every  instance  be  the  best  and  cheapest — considering  the 
permanent  nature  of  such  work,  and  the  desirability  of 
doing  well  what  is  done  at  all,  for  the  Board  to  secure  the 
services  of  a  skillful  landscape  architect  to  help  decide  these 


306 


OBNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


points,  as  well  as  to  prepare  a  plan  of  the  grounds,  select 
and  mark  out  the  arrangement  of  the  trees  and  shrubs, 
and  other  matters.  Under  any  circumstances  there 
should  be  a  definite  plan  devised  for  guiding  operations, 
and  th6  arrangement  from  the  start  should  be  so  complete 
as  not  to  require,  in  a  great  many  years,  any  important 
changes. 

The  grounds,  of  the  cemetery  should  be  divided  and 
sub-divided  into  sections  and  plats,  with  such  aven- 
ues and  walks  as  may  be  deemed  necessary.  A  map 
should  be  kept  where  it  can  be  readily  inspected. 

The  lots  should  be  of  various  sizes,  generally  with  those 
of  the  same  size  together.  They  may  vary  from  the  size 


Fig.  121.— PLAN  FOR  DIVIDING   CEMETEKT  GROUNDS. 

of  single  graves  to  several  thousand  square  feet  each,  the 
more  desirable  sections  usually  being  laid  out  in  largest 
lots.  Dispensing  with  gravel  or  other  walks  throughout 
the  cemetery,  having  in  their  stead,  grass  walks  only,  ex- 
cepting some  main  walks  and  drives,  is  much  preferable  to 
cutting  up  the  ground  with  the  former.  By  this  means 
there  is  a  saving  of  expense  in  first  construction  ;  the 
aftercare  of  the  place  is  easier,  and  such  a  plan  tends  to 
increase  the  garden  effect.  Figure  121  shows  one  of  the 
best  plans  for  dividing  cemetery  lawns  into  lots  and  grass 
walks.  The  boundaries  are  marked  by  small  stone,  metal, 


GARDEN   CEMETERIES.  307 

or  oaken  slabs,  so  sunk  down  with  the  tops  even  with 
the  ground,  that  the  mower  can  pass  over  them.  This 
plan  is  drawn  to  a  scale  of  four  feet  to  one-fourth  of  an 
inch. 

No  fences,  rails,  or  walls,  are  now  allowed  around  indi- 
vidual lots  in  the  best  cemeteries.  In  case  anything  of 
this  kind  is  needed,  it  should  be  a  low,  stone  coping  or  a 
low  evergreen  hedge. 

The  planting  of  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers  in  cemeteries 
should  only  be  allowed  under  the  direction  of  an  intelli- 
gent superintendent ;  the  injudicious  bringing  in  of  what 
were  intended  as  adornments,  has  spoiled  the  beauty 
of  many  a  cemetery.  Flowers,  as  a  rule,  should  be 
arranged  either  in  beds  along  the  drives  and  walks,  or 
else  on  plats  not  used  for  burials. 

The  plan  of  regulating  somewhat  the  size  and  form  of 
tombstones,  by  keeping  them  within  certain  limits,  is  a 
good  one,  for  the  wide  variations  that  often  prevail  in 
these,  is  not  conducive  to  good  effects. 

Kulcs  and  regulations  to  be  observed  by  lot-holders  and 
visitors,  should  be  posted  up  in  one  or' more  conspicuous 
places.  These  may  apply  to  the  admission  of  non-lot- 
holders  ;  prohibition  of  fast  driving,  driving  on  the 
grass,  leaving  horses  unattended  or  unfastened,  the  pick- 
ing or  injuring  of  flowers,  shrubs,  and  trees,  the  feeding 
or  disturbing  of  water  fowls  or  birds,  forbidding  children 
to  come  in  unattended,  or  persons  with  refreshments, 
lire-arms,  or  dogs,  or  omnibuses,  equestrians,  etc. 


PART  IV. 

CONSTRUCTING  GARDENS. 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 
PLANNING  GARDEN  IMPROVEMENTS. 

No  one  who  plants  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs,  or 
otherwise  permanently  improves  his  land,  can  forsee  how 
far  the  results  of  his  work  will  live  into  the  future. 
This  thought  suggests  the  importance  of  doing  well 
whatever  is  done,  as  it  is  done  but  once  for  an  indefinite 
time.  In  building  our  houses,  the  appearance  of  the 
finished  structure  is  thoroughly  studied  from  plans  be- 
fore construction  ;  we  should  act  as  wisely  with  the  gar- 
den improvements,  which  endure  quite  as  long.  Trees 
and  shrubs  look  small  at  the  start ;  they  will  not  be  so 
always,  and  after  developing  into  conspicuous  objects,  we 
can  scarcely  count  on  replacing  or  moving  them,  if  badly 
located  at  first.  Obviously  the  proper  time  to  avoid  bad 
garden  effects  is  before  the  work  is  begun. 

This  can  be  done  by  the  help  of  good  plans,  prepared 
beforehand,  in  ample  time  to  guide  every  operation  in 
garden  making.  It  is  better  to  have  such  plans,  even  if 
procured  at  some  cost  of  time  and  money,  and  if  they 
show  nothing  more  than  the  locating  of  the  principal  ob- 
jects, than  to  start  work  with  no  plan,  or  a  poor  one, 
and  to  regret  the  results  for  years  long  to  come. 

Where  one  prefers  to  make  his  own  plans  for  garden 
improvements,  the  way  to  proceed  is,  to  prepare  a  map  of 
the  place  as  it  now  is,  drawing  it  to  some  scale,  such  as 
(308) 


PLANNING   GARDEN  IMPROVEMENTS.  309 

sixteen  or  thirty-two  feet  to  the  inch.  Upon  this  all  the 
existing  objects,  such  as  buildings,  entrances,  trees,  etc., 
should  be  located,  giving  each  its  exact  position.  Then 
with  a  pencil,  the  planning  of  improvements  may  be 
done,  making  and  erasing  as  necessary,  until  something 
satisfactory  is  reached.  Every  object  intended  to  be 
brought  in  should  be  given  its  proper  size  according  to 
the  scale.  As  the  work  progresses,  the  plan  should 
often  be  viewed  from  various  directions,  by  holding  the 
upper  surface  of  the  paper  nearly  in  line  with  the  eye. 
This  will  better  show  how  it  will  appear  on  the  grounds 
when  finished,  than  if  looked  at  obliquely  from  above, 
because  naturally  we  view  our  gardens  not  as  if  we  were 
in  a  balloon,  but  with  the  eye,  nearly  on  their  own  level. 
Sufficient  time  ought  to  be  given  to  this  work,  so  that  all 
features  may  be  deliberately  studied  in  their  relation  to 
the  whole.  Kemember,  it  is  always  a  serious  matter  to 
make  blunders  in  planning  a  garden,  for  when  the  work 
is  once  executed,  and  the  trees  are  growing,  they  will 
stand  as  monuments — who  can  tell  how  long — pointing 
either  to  wise  or  unwise  decisions  on  the  part  of  the  one 
who  made  the  plan. 

To  secure  the  best  results,  with  the  fewest  chances 
of  failure,  the  services  of  a  skilled  landscape  architect 
should  by  all  means  be  employed.  A  matter  of  such  far 
reaching  importance  should  be  entrusted  only  to  a 
thoroughly  competent  person.  There  is  no  better  field 
for  ignoramuses  and  outright  imposters,  than  that  of 
gardening,  because  results  are  often  years  in  developing, 
giving  the  imposters  time  enough  to  depart  before  their 
incompetency  is  discovered.  As  a  rule,  if  a  person  can- 
not draw  a  plan  that  is  graceful  and  pleasing  to  the  eye, 
he  is  not  to  be  trusted  to  plan  the  garden  itself.  This 
test,  while  generally  reliable,  is  not  always  so,  for  a  grand 
plan,  in  addition  to  appearing  smooth  and  graceful  on 
paper,  must  fit  the  place  upon  which  it  is  to  be 


310          OBNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

employed.  A  knowledge  of  materials  is  quite  indis- 
pensable on  the  part  of  the  architect.  He  should  be 
familiar  with  the  natures  and  merits  of  all  the  plants  he 
sets  out ;  the  proper  selections  to  make,  and  the  soils  and 
exposures  most  suitable  for  each  ;  the  effects  of  sunshine, 
shade,  moisture,  dryness,  upon  them,  the  sizes  and  forms 
they  attain  at  maturity,  the  shades  of  foliage,  colors  of 
flowers,  and  a  multitude  of  other  things  in  order  to  pro- 
duce lasting  good  effects. 


CHAPTEE  XXX. 
LAYING  OUT  THE  GROUNDS. 

From  the  time  the  first  spade  is  struck,  until  the 
garden  is  completed,  there  will  bo  frequent  need  of  con- 
sulting the  plan  for  guidance.  It  must  be  early 
determined  where  excavations  for  walks,  foundations, 
etc.,  are  to  come,  that  the  material  from  these  can  be 
utilized  in  rough  shaping.  The  soil  of  borders  for  trees 
and  shrubs,  as  well  as  of  flower  beds,  ferneries,  etc.,  will 
probably  need  special  preparation,  and  that  is  often  best 
made  while  the  rough  work  is  in  progress.  Any  rockeries, 
terraces,  lakes,  etc.,  to  be  introduced,  must  be  located 
early. 

All  improvements  and  objects  being  in  place  on  the 
map,  their  exact  location  on  the  grounds  should  be 
determined  with  the  measuring  tape  and  marked  with 
stakes.  Usually,  in  laying  out,  a  place  must  be  gone  over 
a  number  of  times  in  parts,  because  stakes  get  disturbed 
or  covered  up,  and  the  surface  keeps  varying  more  or 
less  during  construction. 

While  most  points  are  readily  located  by  measurement, 
this  is  more  difficult  in  the  case  of  walks  and  other  curves, 


LAYING  OUT  THE   GROUNDS.  311 

except  as  regards  their  starting  places  and  general 
position.  In  getting  the  curves,  the  practised  gardener 
trusts  much  to  his  eye,  but  a  person  of  no  experience 
finds  this  is  not  easy.  A  rope  can  be  used  for  such  pur- 
poses to  good  advantage,  by  fastening  one  end  at  some 


Fig.  133.— THE  CTJBVE  BOD. 

definite  point  along  the  line,  and  then  drawing  on  it,  in 
a  way  to  produce  the  desired  sweep,  defining  it  after- 
wards with  stakes. 

The  curve-rod  shown  in  figure  122  is  a  useful  implement 
in  this  work.  It  consists  of  a  six-foot  rod  with  a  wire  hook 
on  one  end,  a,  and  a  cross  piece  with  holes  in  it  at  the 
other,  c,  with  a  notch  at  the  center,  b.  To  use  it,  we 
start  with  a  stake  at  the  hook  at  a,  and  one  in  the  notch 
at  b,  a  third  one  is  then  put  through  one  of  the  holes  of 
fche  cross  piece,  say  the  outer  one  for  instance.  Then 
the  rod  is  lifted  leaving  the 
stakes  to  stand,  and  is  moved 
forward  into  position,  b,  d,  set- 
ting a  fourth  stake  at  d.  After  / 
this  we  bring  into  position,  c,  e,  • 
with  a  stake  at  e,  and  so  on.  ( 
Such  a  course  then  leaves  the  V 
stakes  on  a  good  curve.  By  Ss^  -""' 

using  the  one  or  the  other  end 

,       7,  . ,  Fig.  123.— FORMING  AN  OVAL. 

of    the   cross-piece   the  curve 

may  be  turned  to  the  right  or  the  left,  or  it  may  be 

lengthened  by  inserting  stakes  in  nearer  the  center. 

A  simple  method  of  laying  out  an  oval  on  the  ground 
is  shown  in  figure  123.  Two  stakes  are  set,  say  at  six, 
ten,  or  any  number  of  feet  apart — this  being  governed 


312  ORNAMENTAL   GABDENING. 

by  the  required  size — around  these  a  stout  cord  is  placed 
of  such  a  length,  that  when  the  ends  are  tied,  a  loop  will 
be  formed  about  one-fourth  longer  than  the  distance  be- 
tween the  stakes.  By  placing  a  marking  stake  in  the 
end  of  the  loop  drawn  taut,  it  will,  with  moving  it  around 
— being  guided  by  the  loop,  as  shown  in  the  engraving — 
form  a  perfect  ellipse  on  the  ground.  A  little  experi- 
menting will  enable  one  to  construct  a  wider  or  narrower, 
larger  or  smaller  oval. 

All  small  circles,  squares,  triangles,  and  so  forth,  are 
readily  laid  out  with  the  use  of  line,  tape  measure,  or 
ten-foot  pole  and  stakes. 


CHAPTEK  XXXI. 
THE  WORK  ON  THE  GROUNDS. 

After  a  first  laying  out  of  the  grounds,  operations  may 
commence,  by  passing  over  and  roughly  shaping  them, 
excavating,  filling  in,  etc.,  as  alluded  to  in  the  last  chap- 
ter. 

Whatever  alterations  are  made  in  the  surface,  it  should 
be  laid  down,  as  a  rule  never  to  be  disregarded,  that  as  fin- 
ished, at  least  six  inches  of  good  loamy  soil — and  as  much 
more  as  possible — should  overlay  every  part  of  the  place 
that  is  to  be  planted  or  made  into  lawn.  Wherever  con- 
siderable cutting  down  is  necessary,  the  good  surface  soil 
should  first  be  stripped  from  such  parts,  and  placed  at  one 
side,  and  after  moving  enough  subsoil  to  effect  the  needed 
reduction,  return  the  top  soil  again.  In  mound-making, 
instead  of  heaping  up  earth  on  the  natural  top  soil,  this 
should  first  be  stripped,  and  then  the  body  of  the  mound 
be  made  of  subsoil,  afterwards  replacing  the  surface  soil 
on  the  top. 


THE  WORK   ON   THE   GROUNDS.  313 

Another  way  of  doing  such  work,  is  to  do  it  along 
with  the  operation  of  trenching  (described  in  connection 
with  figure  124).  As  each  section  of  surface  soil  is  thrown 
over,  laying  bare  the  subsoil,  add  to  or  take  from  the 
latter  enough  material  to  effect  the  desired  grade,  after- 
wards replacing  the  top  layer. 

Where  the  walks,  drives,  foundation  Avails,  fountains, 
etc.,  come,  some  earth  will  need  excavating,  and  this 
may  be  used  in  general  shaping.  The  good  surface  soil 
from  such  places  should  be  kept  separate  and  prized  for 
use.  By  opening  up  for  walks  and  drives  at  this  stage, 
a  convenient  place  is  found  for  depositing  any  stones 
that  turn  up.  If  there  are  many  of  these,  often  the  best 
and  cheapest  way  to  get  rid  of  them,  is  by  excavating 
deeply  for  walks  and  drives,  and  filling  them  in  there; 
they  will  thus  serve  both  as  foundation  and  for  drainage. 

The  best  season  for  rough  levelling,  draining,  and 
other  coarse  operations,  is  late  summer  or  fall.  The 
earth  is  then  likely  to  be  dry — a  great  point  in  economi- 
cal moving — and  no  injury  can  possibly  arise  from  the 
trampling  of  teams  and  packing  of  the  soil  by  wheeling. 
Then,  also,  the  earth  has  a  chance  to  settle  well  by 
spring,  so  that  the  work  of  planting  and  lawn  making 
may  be  commenced  early,  which  is  a  great  advantage. 
In  filling  in,  ample  allowance  must  be  made  for  settling, 
by  leaving  the  ground  in  its  loose  state,  somewhat  higher 
in  deep  places  than  in  others.  In  case  filling  in  must 
be  done  in  the  spring,  to  be  followed  soon  by  finishing 
the  improvements,  the  materials  nesd  to  be  firmly  com- 
pacted by  beating  or  rolling  to  prevent  settling  out  of 
shape. 

DRAINAGE. 

The  thorough  drainage  of  the  soil  is  important  in  the 
pleasure  ground.     Few  plants  will  succeed  in  cold,  damp, 
undrained  soil,  and  little  comfort  or  satisfaction  can  be 
14 


314  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

had  from  a  garden  in  this  condition.  Warmth  and  air 
at  the  roots  are  essential  for  their  growth,  and  these  can 
never  be  well  secured  in  und rained,  wet  soil. 

In  the  work  of  draining,  usually  common  drain  tiles, 
or  pipes,  are  laid  in  lines  twenty  to  forty  feet  apart, 
and  three  or  four  feet  deep  for  loamy  soils,  and 
fifteen  feet  and  upwards  apart,  and  about  three 
feet  deep  for  heavy  soils.  Land  naturally  open  and 
dry  may  not  require  draining.  The  best  style  and  size 
of  tile  is  the  round,  with  collars,  and  these  may  be  from 
one  and  one  half  to  two  inches  inside  diameter  for  com- 
mon tiles,  with  the  cross  mains  two  to  four  inches. 
The  smaller  the  tiles,  if  they  answer  their  purpose,  the 
less  liable  are  they  to  become  obstructed,  because  the 
flow  is  more  concentrated.  The  tiles  should  be  so  hard 
burned  that  they  will  give  a  clear  ring  when  struck,  but 
not  over  burned.  It  will  pay  to  carefully  examine  the 
tiles  and  accept  only  such  as  come  up  to  this  standard, 
for  soft  tiles  are  not  durable,  while  those  that  are  hard 
burned,  warped,  or  melted,  make  defective  drains.  Like 
a  chain,  the  effectiveness  of  a  drain  is  only  measured  by 
its  poorest  parts. 

Drains  may  also  be  may  of  rubble  stone  or  broken 
rocks,  two  or  three  inches  in  diameter,  placed  to  a  depth 
of  fifteen  inches  in  the  bottom  of  a  trench.  "Wooden 
drains,  made  of  ordinary  rough  boards,  cut  into  strips 
four  inches  wide  and  nailed  together,  by  using  three 
pieces,  into  a  triangular  box  or  pipe,  breaking  the  joints. 
These  drains,  which  answer  very  well  for  small  jobs., 
should  be  laid  with  a  point  downward  like  the  letter  V. 

The  bottoms  of  drains  must  be  even,  and  have  suf- 
ficent  fall  throughout  their  length  to  make  a  ready  flow 
towards  the  outlet.  Generally  the  sewers  from  the 
buildings  may  be  made  a  part  of  the  sewage  system  of 
the  garden,  in  which  to  lead  the  water! 


THE   WORK   ON  THE   GROUNDS.  315 

PREPARING   THE   SOIL. 

To  secure  a  satisfactory  growth  of  all  trees,  shrubs, 
flowers,  and  grass  in  the  garden,  the  soil  must  be  rich  and 
deeply  worked.  That  attempts  at  gardening  may  prove 
failures  from  other  causes  is  possible,  but  lack  of  atten- 
tion to  these  points  is  the  most  common  reason  why 
many  places  never  look  well— all  the  trees  and  plants 
having  an  unthrifty,  half-starved  appearance. 

Few  soils  are  so  stubborn  that  draining  and  a  thorough 
breaking  up  and  manuring  will  not  properly  prepare 
them  for  planting.  Such  soils  must  be  prepared  by 
trenching  or  subsoiling  to  fifteen  or  more  inches  deep, 
at  the  same  time  working  in  from  thirty  to  fifty  loads  of 
good  stable  manure  to  the  acre.  Top-dressing  in  alter- 
nate years  will  be  required  afterwards;  this  treatment 
will  produce  grand  results  with  whatever  is  planted.  If 
the  soil  should  happen  to  be  a  heavy  clay,  or  just  opposite, 
a  light  sand  or  gravel,  by  mixing  in  some  material  of  an 
opposite  nature,  for  instance,  with  the  clay  using  sand, 
loam,  or  lime,  and  with  the  sand  or  gravel,  using  marl, 
clay,  peat,  leaf -mould  or  loam  in  addition  to  the  above 
treatment,  the  effect  would  be  greatly  beneficial. 

Deep  culture  promotes  growth,  by  giving  the  roots 
ample  room  for  extension,  and  the  soil,  if  properly  broken 
up,  retains  moisture  the  entire  depth  to  which  it  is 
loosened,  preventing  to  an  astonishing  degree,  injury 
from  severe  drouths.  In  the  most  ordinary  ntethod  of 
culture,  the  surface  soil  only  is  overturned,  leaving  the 
subsoil  below — usually  of  a  compact  sterile  nature — un- 
broken. But  when  the  best  results  are  desired,  the  sub- 
soil should  be  broken  up,  keeping  both  the  surface  soil 
and  the  subsoil  separate. 

For  places  large  enough  to  admit  the  plow,  a  subsoil 
plow,  following  in  the  furrow  of  the  common  one,  and 
run  down  deep,  is  used  to  secure  deep  culture.  In 


316  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

smaller  places  trenching  with  the  spade  takes  its  place. . 
Figure  124  shows  how  this  operation  is  done.  First,  the 
surface  soil  occupying  the  space  A,  to  the  width  of  about 
six  feet  across  the  plot  is  thrown  out  entirely,  and  the 
subsoil  underneath,  a,  is  turned  with  the  spade  at  the 
same  time,  working  some  manure  into  the  subsoil.  Then 
the  section  of  soil  of  space  B  is  thrown  over  into  space  A, 
and  the  soil  of  space  I  now  brought  to  light,  is  treated  as 


Fig.   124.— TBENCHING. 

that  of  a  was.  This  way  of  procedure  is  followed  with 
successive  strips  across  the  entire  ground.  The  opening 
remaining  at  the  end  after  the  other  side  is  reached,  is 
filled  up  with  the  soil  first  thrown  out. 

FINAL  SHAPING  OF  THE  SURFACE. 

Shapeliness  of  the  surface  is  one  of  the  distinguishing 
marks  of  a  good  garden,  be  it  even,  crowning,  or  undulat- 
ing as  to  the  top.  In  going  over  the  grounds  to  apply 
the  final  touches,  a  careful  eye  to  observe  the  work  of 
evening-up,  is  in  many  cases  all  that  will  be  needed.  But 
where  the  eye  cannot  be  trusted,  or  if  great  precision  is 
desirable  in  the  final  contour,  then  a  line  and  stakes  for 
small  grounds,  and  regular  levelling  instruments  for 
large  ones  will  be  needed. 

In  using  the  line  and  stakes  for  this  purpose,  in  com- 
mon sized  lots,  first  drive  a  stake  at  each  corner  of  the 
lot,  a,  b,  c,  d,  in  figure  125,  and  corresponding  ones  at  the 


ILffAL  SHAPING   OF  THE  SURFACE. 


317 


corners  of  the  house,  a,  b,  c,  d,  of  the  same  figure,  all  to 
project  say  two  feet  above  the  ground.  Then  determine 
where  the  final  grade  line  is  to  be,  at  the  point  where  each' 
stake  stands,  marking  the  same  on  the  stake.  Now 
measure  up  on  each  stake  one  foot  from  the  grade  mark, 
and  cut  a  notch.  By  next  stretching  a  line — or  sighting 


Fig.   125.— FINAL  SHAPING  OF  THE  SURFACE. 

for  long  distances — from  notch  to  notch  thus  made  on 
any  two  stakes,  such  a  line — called  the  datum  line — it  is 
plain,  will  be  one  foot  above  the  desired  grade  as  marked 
on  the  corner  stakes.  By  setting  a  row  of  stakes  at  in- 
tervals of  say  twenty  feet  between  the  corner  stakes,  along 
the  border,  and  a  corresponding  number  which  will  come 


318  .          ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

closer  together  along  the  house  as  shown  by  the  letter  5 
in  the  cut,  we  may  indicate  the  desired  grade  throughout 
on  these,  by  simply  measuring  down  one  foot  from  the 
datum  line  at  any  point,  provided  it  is  intended  to  keep 
the  desired  grade  straight.  But  most  likely  it  ought  to 
be  a  departure  from  a  straight  line  to  some  extent,  with 
probably  a  crowning  point  midway  between  corners.  In 
such  case,  the  measure  should  be  something  less  than  a 
foot,  say  ten  or  eight  inches  downwards  on  the  stake  at 
the  most  crowning  point,  and  then  gradually  increasing 
the  length  of  the  measure  in  proceeding  towards  the  cor- 
ners, in  order  to  make  a  generally  curving  contour,  even 
if  slight. 

With  a  row  of  an  equal  number  of  stakes  between  cor- 
ner and  corner  all  around  the  lot,  as  well  as  around  the 
house,  marked  with  the  desired  grade  in  the  manner  de- 
scribed, we  may  now  proceed  to  run  lines,  shown  by  dots 


Fig.   126. — GUAGE   FOB  SLOPES. 

in  the  figure,  across  the  plot  between  the  stakes  of  the 
boundary  row  and  corresponding  ones  at  the  house. 
Along  these  cross  lines  the  desired  grade  may  also  be 
marked  on  the  stakes,  which  should  also  be  twenty  feet 
apart.  By  passing  over  the  entire  grounds  in  this  way, 
the  new  grade  will  be  shown  on  stakes  about  twenty  feet 
apart  all  over  the  area,  and  the  finishing  of,  the  grading 
may  be  guided  by  these. 

It  remains  for  those  having  the  work  in  charge  to  de- 
cide on  how  much,  if  at  all,  the  general  contour  shall 
vary  from  the  straight  line  in  all  parts.  The  presence 
of  any  desired  undulations  here  andv  there  about  the 
grounds,  need  not,  with  due  allowance,  interfere  with  this 


FINAL   SHAPING   OF  THE   SUBFACE.  319 

work.  Terraces  and  slopes  may  be  shaped  very  perfectly 
as  regards  their  surface  on  this  principle.  If  these 
are  to  be  straight  in  each  part,  and  the  angles  and  out- 
lines all  straight,  it  will  not  be  difficult  to  indicate  the 
desired  grade  on  rows  of  stakes  at  the  top  and  bottom  of 
any  slopes,  and  at  the  margins  of  terraces.  Where  the 
outlines  of  terraces  are  curving,  a  little  more  difficulty 
attends  the  laying  out  and  shaping.  For  such  work, 
and  in  fact  for  all  cutting  of  slopes,  the  slope  guage  shown 
in  figure  126  is  a  great  help.  By  laying  out  the  upper 
curve  of  the  slope,  marking  it  clearly  on  the  ground  of  the 
upper  level,  and  then  using  this  guage  the  work  of  cutting 
down  the  slants  is  easily  done.  Slopes  should  seldom  be 
made  of  a  greater  angle  than  forty-five  degrees. 

In  thus  shaping  up  the  grounds,  as  directed,  it  is 
calculated  that  at  this  time  the  soil  is  distributed  pre- 
cisely as  it  shall  appear  when  finished  and  clothed  with 
grass.  But  if  in  any  case  the  surface  has  become  har- 
dened by  trampling  or  driving,  it  may  be  best  now  to 
carefully  go  over  all  with  a  spade,  or  in  large  pieces  the 
plow,  and  work  it  over  very  evenly,  preparatory  to  receiv- 
ing the  trees,  shrubs,  plants,  and  grass.  This  I  repeat 
should  be  carefully  done,  with  a  view  to  changing  the 
lay  of  the  land  as  slightly  as  possible.  No  attention 
need  be  paid  to  the  stakes  now,  as  these  are  no  more 
needed.  In  plowing  this  time,  the  soil  from  the  first 
furrow  is  thrown  above  the  common  level,  after  the 
piece  is  overturned  it  should  be  drawn  into  the  open  fur- 
row that  is  left  by  the  plow  in  finishing,  that  all  may 
become  even  again.  A  heavy  harrow,  along  with  a  roller, 
should  then  be  applied  until  the  surface  is  thoroughly 
fined  down.  The  roller  serves  to  settle  the  soil,  and  re- 
veal small  mounds  and  deficiencies  which  may  need  cor- 
recting with  the  shovel  and  rake.  In  small  plats  that 
have  been  spaded,  the  rake  and  hand-roller  will  be  used 
in  place  of  the  harrow,  etc. 


320  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

An  earth  float,  made  of  a  piece  of  common  3  by  4  or  2 
by  6-inch  rough  scantling,  with  one  handle,  for  a  float  nine 
feet  long,  is  shown  in  figure  127.  Two  handles  are  needed 
for  one  sixteen  feet  long.  This  will  be  found  to  be  a  use- 
ful implement  for  the  final  shaping  of  the  ground,  by 
drawing  it  back  and  forth  over  the  surface  a  number  of 
times  in  different  directions.  The  walks  being  not  yet 


Fig.  137.— A  FLOAT. 

made,  all  stones  and  surface  gravel  can  still  be  deposited 
in  the  openings  for  these.  After  this  last  plowing,  all 
driving,  and  wheeling  should  be,  if  possible,  confined  to 
the  drives  and  walks. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 
PLANTING. 

All  things  considered,,  spring  is  the  best  time  to  plant 
trees  and  shrubs,  and  the  earlier  it  can  be  done,  after  the 
soil  is  dry  enough  to  work,  the  better.  Still  with  great 
care  being  observed  in  not  letting  the  roots  be  exposed 
to  the  air  for  a  moment  more  than  is  absolutely  necessary, 
there  is  no  reason  why  success  should  not  follow,  even 
when  the  trees  aro  considerably  started.  I  have  planted 
Horse  Chestnuts,  Maples,  Japan  Quince,  Althaeas,  and 
many  others,  that  were  in  full  leaf,  and  scarcely  lost  one. 
But  when  any  are  so  far  advanced  as  this,  it  is  necessary 
to  remove  most  of  the  leaves  and  to  do  the  work  with  great 


PLANTING.  321 

painstaking.  The  Larch,  Birch,  Beech,  and  some  others 
cannot  be  transplanted  thus  late  with  any  prospect  of 
success.  All  the  evergreens  may  be  set  several  weeks 
later  than  deciduous  trees.  Fall  planting  of  deciduous 
trees  is  generally  successful  if  done  in  October — there 
being  more  risk  with  delicate  kinds  than  with  others. 
This  is  the  preferable  season  for  setting  all  of  the  robust, 
hardy  flowering  plants,  and  especially  Pasonies.  But  fall 
planting  of  every  kind  should  be  done,  if  possible,  as 
early  as  the  month  of  October,  in  order  to  give  the  roots  a 
chance  to  "get  hold  of  the  ground,"  as  gardeners  say, 
and  store  up  some  strength  against  the  winter. 

Let  us  suppose  that  the  stock  for  planting  that  was 
ordered  from  the  nursery,  has  just  arrived,  and  we  find 
the  garden  not  quite  ready  for  setting  them  immediately. 
The  trees  should  be  taken  from  the  shipping  boxes  and 
carefully  heeled-in  for  a  twofold  purpose.  First,  to 
preserve  the  roots  from  drying  ;  second,  to  so  arrange 
them  that  the  labels  can  be  examined,  and  any  requisite 
tree  be  readily  taken  out  for  planting.  The  heeling-in 
should  be  done  by  digging  a  trench  about  a  foot  deep, 
and  two  feet  wide,  in  a  convenient  spot.  The  roots 
should  be  set  into  this  trench,  and  fine  earth  sprinkled 
upon  them,  to  come  in  contact  with  all  parts,  finishing 
by  filling  the  trench  with  the  earth  first  thrown  out. 
The  soil  should  then  be  firmed  with  the  feet,  so  that  it 
will  be  in  close  contact  with  all  the  roots. 

Success  in  planting  depends  upon  not  letting  the  roots 
dry.  More  trees  are  killed  from  this  cause  than  most 
people  are  aware.  From  the  time  that  trees  are  lifted 
in  the  nursery,  until  they  are  finally  planted,  every  means 
should  be  employed  to  guard  against  drying  of  the  roots. 
They  often  suffer  when  heeled-in,  by  having  the  soil  too 
loose  about  the  roots.  Evaporation  goes  on  from  the 
tops,  the  juices  dry  out,  and  under  such  circumstances 
they  cannot  draw  in  the  moisture  needed  to  make  up  for 


322  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

the  loss.  Evergreens,  particularly,  often  suffer  much 
from  this  cause. 

When  ready  to  plant,  first  go  over  the  ground  with 
the  working  plan  in  hand,  and  set  a  stake  wherever  a  tree 
or  shrub  is  to  be  planted.  The  work  may  be  simplified 
by  writing  the  name  of  the  kind  on  each  stake.  Holes 
should  be  dug  of  ample  size  to  accommodate  the  roots 
when  spread  out  naturally,  and  the  soil  should  be  care- 
fully kept  in  piles  at  the  side  of  the  holes  and  not  need- 
lessly scattered. 

As  the  trees  are  being  set,  or  preferably  before,  they 
should  be  pruned.  This  operation  should  be  governed 
somewhat  by  the  loss  of  roots  in  digging,  but  as  all  trees 
and  shrubs  lose  some  roots  during  that  process,  and  as 
we  do  not  know  just  how  many,  a  safe  rule  for  most 
kinds  will  be,  to  cut  away  about  one  third  to  one  half  of 
the  last  season's  growth.  Any  long  roots  may  be  also 
shortened  a  little,  and  the  ends  of  all  roots  that  were 
bruised  in  digging,  should  be  cut  off  smooth.  Evergreens 
should  also  be  pruned  somewhat  when  planting  them. 

Set  the  trees  GO  that  when  the  earth  is  filled  in,  they 
will  be  as  deep  as  they  stood  in  the  nursery.  The  prin- 
cipal feeding  roots  of  the  trees  are  near  the  surface,  and 
to  plant  it  deep  is  not  to  do  the  tree  justice.  An  excep- 
tion to  this  rule  is  to  be  made,  however,  with  such  things 
as  budded  roses,  and  dwarf  pears,  which  should  be 
planted  with  the  union  of  stock  and  cion  two  inches  be- 
low the  surface. 

The  tree  or  shrub  being  in  place,  fine  soil  should  be 
quickly  sprinkled  over  the  roots,  and  the  plant  so  worked 
or  shaken,  that  the  earth  will  get  well  around  and  under- 
neath all  of  the  roots.  The  good  planter  gets  down  and 
works  the  soil  in  between  the  roots  with  his  fingers  or 
with. a  small  pointed  stick,  and  on  account  of  this  care 
he  seldom  loses  a  plant.  Before  much  soil  is  filled  in 
upon  the  roots,  it  should  be  pressed  firmly  with  the  feet, 


PLANTING.  323 

or  even  a  rammer.  Such  firming  is  a  most  important 
part  of  the  work,  and  probably  has  more  to  do  with  the 
success  of  the  planting  than  any  other  one  thing.  If  at 
planting,  the  soil  happens  to  be  dry,  or  the  tree  is  con- 
siderably started,  do  not  fill  the  hole  quite  full  at  once, 
but  run  water  into  the  opening  to  thoroughly  soak  the 
soil,  finally  filling  in  the  earth  the  next  morning. 

When  trees  are  set  singly,  a  space  several  feet  across 
should  be  kept  clear  of  grass  for  a  few  years.  This  space 
should  be  a  little  lower  than  the  surrounding  surface, 
in  order  that  the  tree  may  be  perfectly  watered  in  dry 
weather,  and  the  soil  worked.  Where  they  are  planted 
in  masses  or  borders,  the  whole  area  they  cover  may  be 
kept  in  cultivation,  and  the  soil  being  in  a  thoroughly 
pulverized  condition  on  the  surface,  admitting  air  and 
moisture,  they  will  do  better  than  they  otherwise  possibly 
could. 

In  some  grounds,  especially  such  as  have  been  cut  down 
by  grading,  sometimes  nothing  but  the  poorest,  gravelly, 
sandy  or  clayey  earth  is  available,  although  a  facing  loam 
from  six  inches  upwards  may  be  provided  for  making  a 
lawn.  It  would  be  worse  than  useless  to  attempt  to  grow 
trees,  shrubs,  etc.,  in  such  a  place  without  special  prepara- 
tion for  whatever  may  be  planted.  Wherever  a  tree  is  to  bo 
set,  one  half  to  a  cubic  yard  of  the  earth  should  be  dug 
out,  and  the  opening  filled  in  with  the  same  quantity  of 
good  soil  from  elsewhere,  in  which  the  tree  should  be 
planted.  Where  groups  of  trees  and  shrubs  are  to  be 
planted,  the  entire  area  may  be  thus  treated  to  a  depth 
of  one  and  a  half  or  two  feet. 


324  ORNAMENTAL   GAKDENING. 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 
LAWN  MAKING. 

There  are  two  ways  of  making  a  Aawn,  the  one  by  sod- 
ding or  turfing,  the  other  by  sowing  grass  seeds.  For 
small  gardens,  the  former  is  undoubtedly  the  best,  while 
for  larger  areas,  seeding  is  necessarily  done,  as  it  gener- 
ally makes  a  good  lawn,  and  is  much  cheaper,  although 
more  time  is  needed  to  bring  it  to  perfection. 

If  it  can  be  done,  the  ground  to  be  put  into  grass  ought 
to  be  allowed  to  settle  during  one  or  two  good  rains  after 
the  last  grading  spoken  of  in  Chapter  XXXI,  and  then  be 
sodded  or  seeded.  Otherwise  some  slight  unevenness  may 
appear  after  thorough  settling.  If  the  rain  cannot  be 
waited  for,  the  earth  may  be  settled  with  the  roller.  An 
earth  rammer  may  also  be  brought  into  use,  and  if  it  is 


Fig.    128. — AN    EAKTU-KAMMER   AND    SOD-BEETLE. 

found  that  any  spots  are  softer  than  others,  they 
should  be  firmed  by  this  tool,  afterwards  evening-up 
the  surface  as  may  be  needed,  by  the  use  of  the  rake. 
Figure  128  shows  an  easily  made  earth-rammer  and  sod- 
beetle  combined,  that  will  be  found  useful  in  a  garden. 
For  firming  earth  it  is  used  mostly  in  a  perpendicular 
position,  striking  the  soil  with  the  heaviest  end ;  but  in 
setting  sods  evenly,  these  are  struck  mostly  Avith  one  of 
the  flat  sides.  It  is  worked  out  of  a  solid  piece  of  five  by 
live  scantling,  and  about  four  and  a  half  feet  long. 

In  laying  sod,  the  surface  of  the  ground  should  first  be 
slightly  loosened  with  a  rake  to  make  a  bed  for  the 
grass  roots,  and  if  dry,  sprinkled  as  fast  as  the  turf  is 
brouhgt.  The  best  turf  is  that  taken  from  a  pasture  lot 
or  roadside,  that  has  been  kept  low  by  grazing.  That 
where  sheep  have  been  pastured  is  preferred,  as  these 


MAKING.  325 

animals,  by  their  habit  of  biting  close  to  the  ground,  de- 
stroy the  coarse  weeds.  The  better  way  of  taking  up  the 
turf  is  to  have  the  sods  in  long  pieces,  and  to  roll  them 
up.  In  cutting  the  sod  some  gardeners  use  the  line,  and 
others  a  board  with  a  straight  edge,  in  order  that  the 
cutting  may  be  accurate.  The  board  has  this  advantage, 
that  it  may  be  a  foot  wide,  and  then  it  can  serve  as  a 
guage  for  width  without  any  further  measuring,  by  cut- 
ting closely  along  the  sides.  First,  the  cut  should  be  made 
lengthwise  with,  a  sharp  spade  or  turfing  iron.  Then 
starting  at  one  end,  one  man  with  a  sharp  spade  should 
cut  the  roots,  so  that  the  sod  will  be  about  an  inch  and  a 
half  thick,  the  assistant  grasping  the  end  and  rolling  it 
up,  the  grass  side  inwards,  keeping  on  as  the  cutting 
proceeds,  until  a  roll  as  large  as  it  is  convenient  to  han- 
dle is  gathered.  Where  one  man  works  alone,  he  may 
separate  the  sod  by  thrusting  the  spade  in  from  the  side, 
afterwards  rolling  it  up.  These  rolls  are  readily  trans- 
ported, and  quickly  unrolled  and  laid,  leaving  the  lawn 
surface  with  few  seams,  as  compared  with  cutting  the 
turf  in  square  pieces.  Sodding  may  also  be  as  well 
done  by  using  square  sods  that  are  cut  about  a  foot  or 
fifteen  inches  square. 

In  laying  the  sod,  join  all  edges  carefully,  using  a  large 
knife  in  cutting.  As  the  laying  proceeds,  if  some 
portions  of  the  turf  happen  to  be  a  little  thinner  than 
others,  soil  should  be  worked  underneath  such  parts. 
The  different  pieces  should  all  be  snugly  pushed  together 
as  the  work  goes  on.  After  being  properly  laid,  all  parts 
should  be  beaten  with  a  wooden  beetle,  and  afterwards 
•well  rolled.  All  of  these  operations  are  to  be  followed  by 
a  heavy  sprinkling  of  water  to  encourage  a  new  growth. 
Along  the  line  of  walks,  drives,  and  borders,  the  turfing 
should  be  carried  a  little  beyond  the  line,  as  it  will  be 
when  finished,  so  that  in  dressing  down  the  edges 
afterwards,  the  cutting  will  be  through  good,  strong  sod. 


326          ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

Where  lawns  are  made  by  seeding,  the  work  is  com- 
menced by  turfing.  All  along  walks,  drives,  borders, 
and  wherever  there  is  a  termination  in  the  grass  plat,  not 
otherwise  bounded,  a  strip  of  turf  about  a  foot  wide 
should  be  laid  down,  as  suggested  in  the  preceding  para- 
graph, for  making  a  firm  edge.  But  the  ground  where 
this  edging  strip  of  turf  comes,  should  be  cut  down  the 
thickness  and  width  of  the  sod  that  its  surface  may  be 
even  with  the  part  to  be  sown.  Do  not  remove  the  soil 
quite  as  deep  as  the  sod  is  thick,  as  some  allowance  should 
be  made  for  compression  in  beating.  All  terrace  slopes 
must  be  sodded  also  over  their  entire  surface. 

When  ready  to  sow  the  seed,  the  surface  should  be 
passed  over  with  the  rake  and  mellowed  up  a  little  on  the 
top  to  receive  the  seed.  It  is  a  common  error  to  use 
grass  seed  too  sparingly.  It  is  better  to  use  four  or  more 
bushels  to  the  acre,  than  less  than  four. 

As  to  kinds,  where  it  is  known  that  any  one  sort  does 
well,  it  is  best  to  sow  only  that  one  kind,  as  a  rule  Ked 
Top  or  Bent  grass,  or  Blue  grass,  are  generally  preferred. 
Where  it  is  thought  best  not  to  depend  on  one  alone,  then 
several  kinds  should  be  mixed.  Some  always  sow  a  little 
White  Clover  with  the  grass  seed,  for  the  greenness  it 
maintains  in  drouths,  but  wherever  lawns  are  kept 
watered  this  should  not  be  added.  The  different  grasses 
and  their  adaptability,  are  described  in  Chapter  IV,  of 
Part  II. 

In  sowing,  the  seed  should  be  divided  into  two  por- 
tions, half  to  be  sown  by  passing  over  the  land  in  one  di- 
rection, and  then,  after  lightly  raking  over  the  surface, 
pass  over  the  piece  again,  sowing  the  remaining  half 
cross-wise.  After  the  seed  is  sown,  the  rake  should  be 
again  applied  lightly,  or  else  the  surface  should  be  gone 
over  with  a  brush  harrow,  and  after  this  let  a  thorough 
rolling  be  given. 

The  earlier  the  lawn  can  be  seeded  in  the  spring,  pro- 


WALKS   AND   DKIVES.  32? 

vided  the  ground  is  dry  enough  to  work  well,  the  better. 
By  sowing  in  March,  or  early  in  April,  a  respectable 
lawn  may  usually  be  established  by  mid-summer.  The 
great  advantage  of  early  sowing  is,  that  the  seeds  and 
young  plants  have  the  benefit  of  spring  rains  and  cool, 
growing  weather.  I  have  made  fair  lawns  by  sowing  in 
the  middle  of  June,  in  hot,  dry  weather,  with  the  use  of 
plenty  of  water  and  a  sprinkler,  but  at  best  it  is  up-hill 
work  at  such  a  time.  Early  fall  sowing  is  generally  suc- 
cessful. Some  advise  the  sowing  of  a  thin  sprinkling  of 
oats,  along  with  the  grass  seed  to  shade  the  young  grass. 
This  sometimes  has  a  very  favorable  effect. 

As  the  grass  starts  up,  and  weeds  with  it,  the  mower 
must  be  kept  at  work  on  the  new  lawn.  The  weed  seed 
lying  in  the  ground  usually  comes  up  quickly,  and  will 
prove  annoying  for  a  while,  but  if  the  grass  was  sown 
thickly  enough,  and  the  mowing,  together  with  going 
over  the  lawn  and  cutting  out  coarse  growing  weeds, 
is  attended  to  for  the  first  season  or  two,  the  lawn  will 
come  out  all  right  in  the  end. 

On  the  general  care  of  lawns  see  Part  V. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

WALKS  AND  DRIVES. 

Good  dry  walks  and  roads  are  a  great  comfort  about 
the  home.  As  soon  as  the  lawn  is  sown  or  sodded,  with 
an  edging  of  firm  turf  along  the  roads  and  walks,  the  work 
of  construction  may  commence.  The  first  thing  to  do  in 
the  way  of  putting  down  walks  or  drives  is  to  cut  the 
turf  edge  to  the  exact  width  desired.  In  principle  of 
construction  there  is  little  difference  between  the  two  ; 
but  the  walk  being  narrower  and  not  subject  to  so 
severe  usage  as  the  driveway,  there  may  be  a  little  differ- 
ence in  details. 


328  ORNAMENTAL   GAEDENING. 

Stone  flagging,  asphaltum,  and  other  composition 
walks  are  generally  put  down  by  those  who  follow  mak- 
ing them  as  a  business,  hence  there  is  no  need  of  direc- 
tions concerning  their  construction. 

For  ordinary  walks  and  drives  in  pleasure  grounds, 
those  made  of  gravel  are  most  common  in  all  but  small 
lots,  and  are  perhaps  the  best.  They  are  comparatively 
inexpensive,  pleasant  in  use  and  easy  to  make.  They 
should  be  constructed  with  a  view  to  firmness,  and  with 
such  a  shape  of  surface,  that  water  from  rains  and 
melting  snows  will  be  absorbed  or  promptly  pass  off. 

The  depth  of  excavation  in  making  a  walk,  will  depend 
somewhat  on  the  nature  of  the  sub-soil.  If  this  be  dry 
and  absorbent,  such  as  gravel  or  on  high-lying  rock  with 
seams,  then  an  excavation  of  a  foot  deep,  or  even  less 


Fig.    129. — DRAINS   TO  ROADS. 

will  be  sufficient  for  walks,  and  no  attention  need  be  paid 
to  under-draining  them.  But  if  the  subsoil  be  retentive, 
such  as  clay,  and  requiring  drainage,  then  the  depth  in 
the  lowest  parts  where  the  drains  come  (see  fig.  129), 
should  be  about  fifteen  inches  deep,  and  one  foot  deep  in 
the  highest  parts  of  the  bottom.  Underdraiuage  to 
walks  may  be  provided  as  shown  in  figure  129,  either  in 
the  center  or  at  the  sides.  In  this  figure,  two  styles  of 
drains  are  shown,  one  of  tile  and  the  other  formed  of 
stones.  Often  such  surface  drainage  as  is  described  a 
little  further  on  in  speaking  of  drives,  is  all  that  is  pro- 
vided for  walks,  and  with  satisfactory  results,  making  a 
saving  in  the  labor  of  construction. 

Before  laying  any  underdrains  for  walks,  the  surface 
of  the  opening  should  be  so  shaped  as  to  descend  towards 


WALKS   AND    DKIVES.  329 

the  drains.  The  drains  for  walks  may  be  made  to  com- 
municate with  "a  general  system  of  drains.  After  being 
laid,  the  excavations  are  to  be  filled  up  with  stones,  large 
gravel  and  similar  materials,  to  within  four  or  six  inches 
of  the  top.  The  lower  layer  of  stones  may  be  set  regu- 
larly on  their  ends,  as  shown  in  figure  129,  and  if  this  is 
well  done,  the  finer  stones  and  gravel  working  into  the 
chinks  will  cause  them  to  bind. 

The  space  above  the  coarse  material  should  be  filled  in 
with  good  gravel  of  a  size  ranging  from  that  of  peas  up 
to  that  of  marbles.  This  may  be  obtained  by  screening, 
if  gravel  of  the  right  size  is  not  at  hand.  Any  coarse 
gravel  that  comes  from  screening,  may  go  at  the  bottom. 
In  putting  down  the  gravel,  a  little  still  firmer  material, 
such  as  sand  or  a  sprinkling  of  loam,  or  even  fine  clay, 
should  be  incorporated  with  it — all  excepting  a  finishing 
coat  to  be  laid  on  last — to  cause  it  to  pack.  The  gravel 
as  it  is  wheeled  in  should  be  leveled  with  shovel  and  rake, 
and  then  thoroughly  rolled  with  a  heavy  roller,  wetting 
it  freely  as  the  rolling  goes  on,  to  aid  in  the  packing. 
By  such  a  course  a  walk  can  be  made  that  will  feel  almost 
as  firm  to  the  foot  as  stone  and  be  easier  to  walk  on. 

The  walk  as  finished  should  come  up  to  within  half  an 
inch  or  an  inch  of  the  grass  at  the  edges,  and  it  should  be 
rounded  up  to  be  some  higher  in  the  middle,  just  how 
much  higher  may  be  a  matter  of  taste,  as  well  as  one 
governed  by  the  width  of  the  walk.  Straight  walks  are 
not  generally  made  as  rounding  as  curved  ones.  If  we 
take  an  inch  and  a  half  as  the  average  increase  of 
hight  in  the  center  for  a  six-foot  walk — going  above  this 
for  serpentine  walks,  but  a  little  less  for  straight  ones, 
the  hight  will  not  be  far  out  of  the  way.  On  width  of 
walks  and  drives  see  Part  III. 

In  road  making,  while  the  general  material  may  be  the 
same  as  that  used  in  walks,  the  proportions  throughout 
are  on  a  heavier  scale.  As  a  rule,  provision  for  draining 


330 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


Fig.  130. — STONE  PAVEMENT 
ON  SAND. 


of  roadways  is  made  by  surface  drainage — that  is,  gutters 
are  constructed  along  the  sides,  and  sufficient  roundness 
cf  surface  of  the  road  is  maintained  to  easily  incline  the 
water  into  these. 

Figure  130  shows  the  con- 
struction of  a  common  stone 
pavement  bedded  in  sand.  In 
Europe  one  often  meets  with 
paved  walks,  made  of  narrow 
stone  chips,  with  the  surface 
that  comes  to  the  top,  dressed  straight.  These  pave- 
ments are  comfortable  to  walk  on,  neat  looking,  and 
there  is  no  wear  out  to  them. 

Figure  131  represents  a  cross  section  of  the  favorite 
roadway  for  pleasure  grounds,  parks,  and  cemeteries, 
known  as  the  Telford  Road. 
An  excavation  is  made  from 
eighteen  inches  to  two  feet 
deep,  to  receive  the  material 
of  the  road.  The  body  consists 
of  large  stones  set  regularly 
over  the  bottom,  then  broken 
stone,  averaging  the  size  of  a 
hen's  egg,  makes  a  middle  course,  and  on  top  of  this 
is  placed  a  finishing  coat  of  about  four  inches  of  gravel. 
The  whole  is  made  firm  by  hammering  and  rolling  as 
the  work  proceeds.  The  gutters  consist  of  small  sized 
paving  stones  at  the  surface,  set  in  a  water-settled  body 
of  sand. 

In  all  roads  or  walks  with  gutters  at  the  sides,  as  well 
as  at  any  low  places,  provision  should  be  made  for  carry- 
ing away  the  accumulation  of  surface  water.  For  this 
purpose  silt  basins  or  lodges  constructed  of  brick  and 
connecting  with  drains  in  the  ground,  are  placed  at 
required  points.  In  figure  131,  the  cross  sectional  out- 
line of  such  a  reservoir  is  shown.  It  should  have  a  mova- 


Fig.  131. — SECTION  OF  TEL- 
FORD  KOAD. 


PREPARATION   FOR   SPECIAL    PURPOSES.  331 

ble  silt  grate  on  the  top,  placed  on  a  level  with  or  a  little 
lower  than  the  bottom  of  the  gutter.     The  basin  maybe 
eighteen  inches  or  more  across  and  three  to  five  feet  deep. 
The  pipe  connecting  this  with  the  drain  below,  should 
start  from  the  basin  at  a  foot 
and  a  half    or  more   above  the 
bottom,  and  in   this  space,  any 
gravel   or    other    washings    can 
sink,  to  be  removed  occasionally 
Fig.  133.—  SECTION  OF      by  lifting  the  grate  away. 

MCAPAM  ROAD.  g(}c_ 


tion  of  the   true  McAdam  road,  a  road  built  up  solid 
with  small  broken  stones  firmly  rolled. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 
PREPARATION  FOR  SPECIAL  PURPOSES. 

As  the  shelter  of  masses  of  wood  in  breaking  the 
gales  of  winter,  admits  of  our  growing  a  much  larger  va- 
riety of  ornamental  trees  and  plants,  than  would  be  possi- 
ble without  it,  so  too  we  may  further  enlarge  the  list  of 
suitable  garden  materials  by  attention  to  some  of  the 
special  wants  of  plants  as  to  soil  and  other  conditions. 

ORDINARY   BORDERS   AND   FLOWER   BEDS. 

The  soil  best  suited  to  the  large  majority  of  all  flower- 
ing plants,  shrubs  and  trees,  is  one  that  is  not  too  heavy, 
is  friable,  deeply  dug,  and  well  enriched  with  decomposed 
manure.  Many  failures  in  plant-growing  come  from  not 
having  the  beds  rich  enough.  In  making  new  borders  or 
preparing  flower  beds,  the  wild  garden,  etc.,  if  the  soil 
was  not  well  manured  at  the  first,  then  a  coat  of  two  or 
three  inches  of  old  and  fine  manure  should  be  applied  and 


332  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

well  worked  in.     Some  fine  leaf  mould  from  the  woods 
could  not  fail  to  be  greatly  beneficial. 

FERNS,    RHODODENDRONS,    ETC. 

The  plants  brought  under  the  head  of  "Ferns  and  other 
Shade-loving  Plants  "  in  Part  II,  as  well  as  Rhododen- 
drons, Kalmias,  Andromedas,  and  some  others,  to  do  well, 
require  a  soil  largely  composed  of  vegetable  matter,  such  as 
leaf  mould  or  peat.  These  plants  mostly  have  fine,  delicate 
roots,  that  like  coolness  and  moisture,  hence  the  soil 
should  be  rather  light  in  texture,  and  if  not  naturally  so, 
should  be  improved  by  the  addition  of  sand,  together  with 
other  materials.  A  composition  of  equal  parts  of  light, 
sandy  loam,  and  leaf  mould  taken  up  in  hollow  places  in 
dry  woods,  or  else  good  peat,  and  all  thoroughly  mixed, 
would  suit  them.  Good  drainage  is  also  needed  for  this 
class  of  plants,  and  yet  they  must  never  be  allowed  to  suf- 
fer from  excessive  dryness  in  seasons  of  drouth,  but 
should  receive  an  occasional  thorough  watering  at  such 
times. 

Many  of  this  class  of  plants  prove  to  be  so  delightful, 
and  do  so  well  in  a  prepared  soil,  that  it  is  worth  while  to 
be  at  some  expense  and  pains  to  meet  their  wants  by 
special  preparation.  Even  if  land  is  naturally  heavy, 
money  spent  on  making  excavations  two  or  more  feet 
deep,  and  filling  them  with  the  soil  they  need,  will  be 
well  spent.  Most  of  these  plants  like  partial  shade,  but 
some  do  not.  Different  beds  may  therefore  be  made  in 
both  the  shade  and  sun,  and  then  all  can  be  accommodat- 
ed. The  soil  described  is  well  suited  to  the  Japan  and 
other  Lilies,  but  these  require  sun. 

THE   ROOKERY,    ALPINES,  ETC. 

There  is  a  considerable  list  of  Alpine  and  other  beauti- 
ful plants,  natives  mostly  of  high  elevations,  that  do  bet- 


PREPARATION   EOR   SPECIAL   PURPOSES.  333 

ter  and  are  more  effective  if  planted  on  rocky  or  other 
mounds  than  elsewhere. 

The  important  points  to  be  observed  in  preparing  rock- 
eries for  plants,  is  to  have  the  right  kind  of  soil,  and  to  so 
place  the  rocks  that  the  roots  of  the  plants  can  penetrate 
the  soil  to  any  desired  depth.  Usually  the  roots  of  this 
class  of  plants,  are  fibrous  and  of  great  length.  The  soil, 
therefore,  should  be  light  and  easily  penetrable,  as  well 
as  moderately  rich.  Some  fibrous  peat,  leaf  mould, 
gritty  sand,  and  fine,  sharp  stones  may  be  used  in  it  to 
good  advantage. 

Figure  133  will  show  the  manner  of  arranging  the 
stones  in  such  places.  Even  if  but  little  space  is  left  in 
any  places  between  the  stones,  so  long  as  a  layer  of  soil 


Fig.    133. — LA.TING  IJP  A  ROCKWORK. 

extends  fully  through  to  and  connects  with  the  body  of 
soil  below,  it  will  answer.  This  is  the  important  point 
in  making  rockwork  of  any  kind.  A  pocket  between 
rocks,  with  but  a  few  handfuls  of  earth  will  dry  out 
quickly,  while  one  of  similar  appearance,  but  with  the 
soil  opening  downwards,  to  give  the  roots  access  to  mois- 
ture below,  will  keep  the  plants  in  good  order  in  the 
dryest  season. 

Archways  of  rocks  should  be  so  constructed  as  to  have 
some  soil  overlaying  these,  and  some  crevices  filled  with 
earth,  however  small  in  quantity,  extending  back  to  the 
body  of  soil;  this  will  allow  sedums,  trailing  tradescan- 
tias,  and  such  plants  to  grow  beautifully  if  started  in 
the  crevices.- 

Most  of  the  Alpines  delight  in  the  sun  and  the  lack 


334:  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

of  much  moisture,  liable  to  occur  in  mounds.  But 
where  a  rockery  is  made  in  the  shade,  many  of  the  ferns 
and  wood  plants  are  well  adapted  to  the  place. 

In  building  rockwork,  the  stones  should  be  arranged 
with  a  view  to  suffering  as  little  displacement  from  freez- 
ing in  winter  as  possible.  Those  buried  in  the  soil  should 
have  a  large  portion  of  their  bulk  underneath  the  surface. 
The  ground  being  generally  elevated  in  such  works,  and 
therefore  dry,  there  is  less  danger  of  displacements  than 
if  it  were  wet. 

AQUATICS  AND   BOG   PLANTS. 

Provided  the  necessary  water  or  moisture  can  be  sup- 
plied, these  plants  in  some  or  all  of  their  kinds,  prove  in- 
teresting in  the  garden.  Where  there  are  ponds,  rills, 
etc.,  in  the  grounds,  very  little  preparation  will  be  needed 
to  accommodate  them.  The  aquatics  may  be  planted  in 
the  water  where  it  is  about  two  feet  deep,  by  anchoring 
their  roots  to  a  stone  and  allowing  them  to  settle  to  the 
bottom  together.  Bog  plaffts  may  be  set  at  the  borders 
of  the  water.  If  the  ground  is  heavy  along  the  shore, 
some  sand  and  peat,  muck  or  sphagnum,  should  be  worked 
into  it  wherever  plants  are  to  be  set.  Sarracenias  and 
many  orchids  especially,  are  benefited  by  having  these  ma- 
terials, if  not  present  naturally,  incorporated  with  the 
soil  in  goodly  quantity. 

But  it  is  easy  to  grow  any  of  the  aquatics,  even  the 
much-admired  fragrant  Water  Lily,  without  having  a 
natural  body  of  water  on  the  grounds.  Any  contrivance 
that  will  hold  sufficient  water,  from  a  tank  of  masonry 
work  to  a  wooden  tub  or  second-hand  barrel — a  molasses 
cask  cawed  in  two  would  be  excellent — will  answer  to 
grow  1  hem.  In  the  famous  Kew  Gardens,  near  London, 
there  i3  a  very  successful  aquarium,  growing  a  large  col- 
lection of  hardy  species,  and  it  consists  of  a  simple  brick 


GARDEN    ARCHITECTURE.  335 

wall  laid  up  with  cement,  to  make  a  water  tank  about  two 
feet  deep,  with  the  walls  strengthened  by  buttresses,  at 
short  distances  apart  along  the  sides. 

In  artificial  constructions  of  this  kind,  six  or  eight 
inches  of  loam,  leaf  mould,  or  swamp  muck,  should  be 
placed  in  the  bottom  in  which  to  set  the  plants.  They 
may  be  held  in  place  by  placing  a  few  stones  over  the  roots. 

A  soil  that  is  not  naturally  disposed  to  hold  a  great 
amount  of  moisture,  may  be  prepared  by  adding  to  it  such 
materials  as  sphagnum,  leaf  mould  or  peat.  If  such  a  soil 
is  kept  constantly  charged  with  moisture  by  watering,  bog 
plants  may  be  made  to  thrive  in  any  part  of  the  grounds. 
Certain  plants  of  this  kind  are  so  attractive  that  any  at- 
tention paid  to  securing  them  and  supplying  their  wants 
will  be  well  rewarded. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 
GARDEN  ARCHITECTURE. 

Not  having  space  in  this  book  to  treat  on  Garden  Archi- 
tecture at  any  length,  I  pass  over  the  subject  with  only 
noting  some  brief  points. 

Whatever  is  introduced,  we  should  aim  at  having  it  of 
good  quality  and  workmanship.  Nothing  is  more  an- 
noying to  cultivated  taste  than  a  cheap  effort  at  having 
something  elaborate.  Better  have  but  little  garden  archi- 
tecture, even  if  there  is  room  for  it,  and  let  it  be  well 
made,  than  to  have  more  structures  of  a  cheap,  flimsy 
character.  Work  simple  in  design,  but  substantial  in 
quality,  harmonizes  best  with  garden  scenery. 

All  structures,  from  a  stone  coping  to  an  elaborate  con- 
servatory, should  have  a  deep,  well  laid  foundation. 
Even  the  garden  vase  or  piece  of  statuary  should  not  be 
used  without  a  substantial  foundation  or  base.  The 
depth  of  foundations  of  buildings  will  depend  somewhat 


336  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

upon  the  nature  of  the  soil,  but  six  feet  is  safe  in  any 
place,  and  four  feet  may  do  for  light,  open  soils.  In  set- 
ting copings,  the  pieces  of  which  are  of  considerable 
length,  foundations  need  only  be  made  at  the  places 
where  the  joints  or  ends  of  the  stones  come,  instead  of 
along  the  whole  length. 

Foundations  for  plant  houses,  arbors,  or  other  wooden 
structures  should  be  carried  well  above  the  surface,  to 
ensure  dryness  to  the  sills.  A  base  board  may  be  allowed 
to  project  down  over  the  stone  work  if  it  be  desired,  to 
hide  it,  and  this  can  be  replaced  whenever  it  begins  to 
show  signs  of  decay,  where  it  comes  in  contact  with  the 
earth. 

All  planed  wood-work  should  be  thoroughly  painted  or, 
if  finished  with  the  natur«l  surface,  oiled.  Oil  finish  is 
very  pleasing  about  the  garden,  but  in  time  it  turns  to  a 
dull,  dark  color,  and  then  it  may  be  painted.  The  best 
colors  for  garden  work  are  plain,  unobtrusive  ones.  The 
grays  and  browns  of  stones,  rocks,  and  tree  trunks,  show 
what  colors  are  most  in  harmony  with  natural  garden 
beauty.  Such  faint  colors  may  be  aimed  at,  and  if 
lightened  or  otherwise  varied  to  please  the  taste,  are 
usually  satisfactory.  The  bright  green  often  met  with  in 
urns  and  trellises  is  in  poor  taste.  It  is  a  color  for  wire  bas- 
kets that  are  to  be  hid  in  a  protruding  lining  of  moss,  or 
may  be  tolerated  in  light  wire  screens,  to  be  covered  with 
verdure,  but  not  elsewhere.  Bronze  is  unobjectionable 
for  garden  iron  work. 

In  employing  rustic  work  in  the  garden,  whether  it  is 
constructed  on  the  grounds  or  bought  ready  made,  let  it 
be  firmly  put  together,  and  braced  with  all  the  nails 
clinched.  In  its  manufacture,  the  material  is  irregular 
and  hard  to  nail  or  fasten,  especially  in  hard-wood,  and 
so  far  as  appearances  go,  that  which  is  poorly  put  to- 
gether may  look  as  well  as  the  best,  while  in  point  of 
durability  it  is  really  very  inferior. 


PART    IV. 
MAINTENANCE. 

GARDEN  OPERATIONS  ARRANGED  BY  MONTHS. 

Half  the  secret  of  keeping  a  pleasure  garden  in  proper 
condition,  consists  in  duly  regarding  the  little  things 
that  ought  to  be  done,  and  of  doing  all  work  at  the  right 
time.  In  the  pages  which  follow,  the  matters  that  relate 
to  keeping  up  a  garden  are  classified  by  months  for  the 
entire  year,  as  a  convenient  guide  to  the  work.  It  may 
not  always  be  found,  with  our  variable  seasons  and  climate 
in  different  parts  of  the  country,  that  the  work  under 
each  month  will  be  appropriate  to  that  month  for  every 
place,  but  the  arrangement  at  the  least  is  valuable  as 
showing  about  what  needs  doing  at  any  time.  The 
great  merit  of  such  a  calendar  is,  that  it  enables  the 
manager  of  the  garden  to  anticipate  the  work,  so  that 
when  the  time  arrives  for  doing,  be  it  a  little  earlier  or 
later  than  indicated,  there  may  be  preparations  for  it. 


CHAPTER  XXXVH. 
JANUARY. 

AN   OUTLOOK. 

At  this  season  we  stand  on  middle  ground,  between 
the  past  summer  and  the  one  to  come,  and  it  is  an  ex- 
cellent time  to  consider  any  improvements  it  would  be 
desirable  to  make  during  the  new  year.  Flower  beds  to 
be  filled  with  bedding  plants  may  be  studied  for  new  ar- 
15  (337) 


338  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

rangements  of  their  contents,  as  it  is  desirable  to  make 
changes  here  at  times.  Plans  to  guide  such  work  are 
given  elsewhere,  and  these  may  be  the  means  of  suggest- 
ing still  other  forms.  Some  of  the  most  attractive  beds 
are  those  planned  by  their  owners.  And  yet  original  or 
untried  plans  should  always  be  entered  upon  guardedly, 
as  sometimes  plants  which  look  well  on  paper,  fail  to  be 
satisfactory  on  the  grounds.  Look  over  the  lists  of  gar- 
den materials  with  a  view  to  new  introductions.  Much 
pleasure  comes  from  extending  ones  acquaintance  among 
trees,  shrubs,  and  plants,  and  the  true  lover  of  a  garden 
hardly  feels  satisfied  unless  making  some  additions  to  the 
collection  every  year. 

PRELIMINARY   PROVISIONS   FOR   STOCK. 

The  »arrangement  of  the  garden  for  the  coming  year 
being  decided  upon,  then  guage  all  purchasing  of  stock 
accordingly.  Where  many  bedding  plants  are  to  be 
bought,  usually  by  going  to  a  florist  now  with  the  lists, 
contracts  can  be  made  for  stock  to  be  delivered  at  plant- 
ing time,  at  lower  rates  than  if  bargained  for  at  that 
time,  besides  the  advantage  of  being  able  to  get  just  what 
is  wanted,  a  thing  not  so  sure  in  the  spring.  Any  hardy 
nursery  stock  that  may  be  needed,  had  better  be  ordered 
soon,  as  early  comers  receive  attention  first  at  the  nur- 
series, and  it  is  a  great  advantage  to  have  such  stock  at 
hand  early  in  the  spring.  The  same  principle  will  apply 
to  ordering  seeds,  and  most  other  supplies  for  the  garden. 

OUTSIDE    WORK. 

Little  can  be  done  outside  in  the  garden  this  month  in 
the  North.  Whenever  mild  weather  allows,  pruning  may 
be  done,  directions  for  which  appear  under  February. 
It  is  a  good  time  to  lay  in  a  stock  of  manure,  and  cal- 
culations should  be  made  for  such  a  supply,  so  that 
some  which  is  old  and  rotten  may  always  be  on  hand. 


FEBRUARY.  339 

PESTS. 

If  rabbits  trouble  trees,  some  blood  sprinkled  about, 
or  liver  or  bloody  meat  rubbed  on  the  trunks,  will  keep 
them  off.  Mice  sometimes  girdle  trees  and  shrubs  under 
the  snow,  which  may  be  prevented  by  trampling  down 
the  snow  close  to  the  tree.  Now  is  a  good  time  to  trap 
these  pests,  as  their  food  is  scarce  and  they  are  easily 
tempted  by  bait.  Destroy  the  eggs  of  the  destructive 
caterpillar  if  any  are  seen  around  the  twigs  of  trees,  near 
the  ends. 


CHAPTER     XXXVIII. 

FEBRUARY. 
PRUNING   DECIDUOUS    TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

In  the  South,  pruning  of  all  kinds  of  deciduous 
growths  may  take  place  at  any  time  in  the  winter,  while 
at  the  North  mild  weather  in  February  and  March  is  the 
preferred  time  with  most  gardeners.  Pruning  is  an 
operation  not  invested  with  mystery,  as  is  too  much  sup- 
posed. The  cutting  is  based  upon  this  principle:  as 
trees  and  shrubs  develop  buds  along  the  branches,  so  the 
cutting  away  of  any  part  of  a  branch  necessarily  con- 
fines future  growth  to  the  remaining  buds,  and  with  the 
effect  usually  of  improving  both  the  shape  and  vigor  of 
the  growth.  It  is  necessary,  to  be  sure,  to  exercise  judg- 
ment as  to  where  the  cuts  should  be  made,  and  the  opera- 
tion must  also  be  adapted  to  different  kinds  of  plants 
and  for  different  purposes,  but  beyond  this  there  is  no 
secret  about  this  matter. 

Trees,  which  it  is  desirable  to  make  bushy,  should  have 
the  ends  of  their  branches  cut  back  occasionally.  Al- 
most the  entire  list  of  moderate  sized  trees  may  be  kept 


340  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

of  compact  and  beautiful  proportions — adapting  such  as 
would  otherwise  increase  to  be  too  large  for  small  spaces 
— by  this  means.  The  Alders,  Globe  Acacias,  Flowering 
Peaches,  Camperdown  Elm,  Fountain  Willow,  and  some 
others  have  need  of  a  frequent  or  annual  going  over,  to 
keep  them  symmetrical  and  shapely  where  such  a  form 
is  desired.  Rapid,  slender  growing  trees,  like  the  Silver 
and  Cut-leaved  Maples,  Scarlet  Oaks,  Weeping  Linden, 
etc.,  should,  while  young  and  growing  fast,  be  headed-in 
several  times  to  cause  them  to  grow  bushy.  By  such  a 
course,  there  will  be  less  danger  of  their  limbs  breaking 
from  the  ice  and  snow  which  sometimes  gathers  on  them. 

Trees  near  the  house,  or  in  streets,  should  usually  have 
high  heads,  to  allow  of  good  views  from  the  house  and  a 
free  circulation  of  air.  These  should  rarely  be  cut  back, 
but  a  thinning  out  of  lower  branches  before  they  become 
large,  should  be  resorted  to  to  effect  openness  underneath. 

In  any  case  where  large  branches  need  pruning  away, 
the  cut  should  invariably  be  made  close  to  the  trunk. 
To  prevent  splitting  of  the  stump  and  possible  injury  to 
the  tree  by  the  weight  of  the  branch  at  falling,  first  cut 
or  saw  half  through  the  branch  from  below,  about  nine 
inches  out;  after  this  saw  in  from  the  top  near  to  the 
tree  until  the  limb  falls,  and  then  make  a  new  clean  cut 
close  to  the  trunk,  afterwards  thoroughly  coating  the 
surface  with  thick  paint,  melted  grafted  Avax,  or  shellac 
varnish,  to  keep  out  air  and  moisture.  By  such  means 
the  formation  of  new  growth  over  the  scar  is  encouraged, 
and  in  time  this  wound  may  have  the  appearance  of  any 
other  part  of  the  trunk — a  vast  improvement  over  the 
horrid  stubs  of  branches,  which  are  often  seen  projecting 
out  a  foot  or  two  from  the  tree.  Should  the  coating  re- 
ferred to  be  neglected,  permanent  injury  may  easily  come 
to  the  tree  from  rain  soaking  in  through  the  scar,  caus- 
ing it  to  rot  at  the  heart.  These  instructions  may  in 
general  apply  also  to  the  cutting  away  of  small  branches. 


FEBRUARY.  311 

In  simply  heading-in  small  shoots  of  either  trees  or 
shrubs,  it  is  well  to  make  the  cut  just  above  and  rather 
close  to  a  bud,  so  that  no  wood  will  project  beyond  after 
the  buds  starts  into  growth. 

Almost  all  kinds  of  trees,  with  close-growing  heads, 
may  by  pruning  low  at  the  start,  be  kept  shrub-like  in 
general  form,  with  the  head  starting  at  the  ground.  In 
any  large  garden  some  Maples,  Oaks,  Beeches,  Planes, 
Horse-chestnuts,  etc.,  are  very  pleasing  in  this  shape, 
when  growing  on  knolls  or  at  one  side  of  ample  areas  of 
grass. 

In  shrubs,  while  the  careful  training  of  some  to  par- 
take of  tree-like  forms,  with  low,  clean  trunks,  is  desir- 


Fig.  134.— NEGLECTED  SHRUBS.   Fig.  135.— SHRUBS  PROPERLY  PRUNED. 

able  for  the  sake  of  variety— and  almost  any  kind  can  be 
thus  grown  if  pains  are  taken — still  the  bush  form  is  or- 
dinarily the  preferable  one. 

Figure  134  shows  forms  of  shrubs  often  met  with, 
which  have  been  allowed  to  grow  at  random  and  strag- 
gling by  inattention.  Lilacs,  Snowballs,  Purple  Fringes, 
etc..  of  this  shape  abound;  by  pruning,  they  might  ex- 
actly as  well  be  kept  in  such  pleasing  forms  as  are  indi- 
cated in  figure  135.  While  generally,  rounded  outlines 
like  these  must  be  regarded  as  the  finest  for  the  flowering 
shrubs,  each  kind  has  peculiarities  of  habit,  which  should 
be  preserved  in  a  measure  when  the  knife  is  used  among 
them. 


342  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

Those  not  familiar  with  the  pruning  of  shrubs,  often 
err  from  not  cutting  enough  at  each  time  the  job  is 
done.  So  long  as  a  small  number  of  buds  are  allowed  to 
remain  towards  the  base  on  any  young  branch  of  one  or 
several  season's  growth,  there  is  little  danger  of  prun- 
ing too  severely  for  the  good  of  the  plant.  In  the  en- 
gravings, figures  136  and 
137,  two  single  stem 
shrubs  are  shown  by  the 
entire  lines — or  they  may 
serve  to  represent  branches 
at  pruning  time,  and  two 
places  of  cutting  such 

\  fy  \v  \>s  IjJ!  //     stems,  are    indicated    by 

\^  f'f  v%;;  '//       cross  lines.     The  first  of 

these,  figure  136,  is  badly 
Fig.  136.—  Fig.  137.—         cut    as    a    timid     pruner 

BADLY  PRUNED.  PROPE ELY  PRUNED,  might  do  the  work.  The 
second  shows  the  right  principle  of  cutting,  where 
a  fine  bushy  growth  is  desired.  By  cutting  away 
only  at  the  top,  an  ill-shaped,  top-heavy  new  growth,  as 
indicated  by  the  dotted  lines  of  figure  136  results,  be- 
cause upper  branches  have  a  tendency  to  grow  strongest. 
But  if  we  make  the  cut  away  down,  vigorous  branches, 
and  fewer  start  out,  and  near  the  base,  causing  a  low 
and  vigorous  growth  as  figure  137  shows. 

This  principle  applies  to  the  pruning  of  about  every 
ordinary  kind  of  vegetable  growth,  and  amateurs  should 
heed  it  as  they  are  about  handling  the  knife  and  shears. 
But  at  the  outset,  in  pruning  shrubs,  a  certain  differ- 
ence of  habit  in  the  various  kinds  as  to  the  manner  of 
flowering  should  be  observed,  if  we  would  gain  the  best 
results.  One  class  of  shrubs  produce  their  flowers  from 
buds  that  were  formed  in  the  previous  season.  Another 
class  flower  from  buds  that  appear  on  the  new  wood  of 
the  current  season.  Of  the  first  class,  those  of  which 


FEBRUARY.  343 

the  flower-buds  are  prepared  beforehand,  some  of   the 
principal  are  : 

Lilacs.  Dwarf  Almond. 

Weigelas.  Snowy  Mespilus. 

Mock  Oranges.  Leatherwood. 

Calycantlms.  Privets. 

Cornelian  Cherry.  Viburnums. 

Golden  Bell.  Rhododendrons. 

Honeysuckles.  Kalmias. 

Flowering  Currant.  Andromedas. 

Flowering  Peach.  Azaleas. 

Deutzias.  Daphnes. 

Dogwoods.  Dwarf  Horse-chestnut. 

Japan  Quince.  Flowering  Crab. 

If  these  shrubs  are  pruned  at  this  season,  the  flowers 
will  all  be  cut  away.  If  the  last  year's  growth  of  wood 
was  strong,  some  pruning  of  the  branches  by  shortening- 
in  may  be  done,  and  yet  enough  buds  remain  for  a  fair 
show  of  flowers.  But  the  best  way  to  prune  these,  is  to 
give  them,  once  in  every  three  or  four  years,  such  a  severe 
heading-in,  in  whole  or  part,  as  may  be  needful  to 
establish  a  good  general  form,  and  then  regulate  the 
growth  year  by  year,  with  summer  pruning.  (See  notes 
for  June). 

Of  shrubs  that  flower  upon  the  current  season's  growth, 
the  following  are  leading  kinds  : 

Rose  of  Sharon,  or  Althasas.       Coronillas. 
Burning  Bush.  Amorpha. 

Hypericums.  Bladder  Senna. 

Fall-flowering  Spiraeas.  Genistas. 

Hydrangeas.  Roses. 

Flowering  Locusts. 

The  pruning  of  theso  may  be  as  close  as  you  choose 
at  this  season,  without  detriment  to  the  flower  crop.  In- 
deed, most  of  the  kinds  will  flower  all  the  more  freely 


344  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

during  the  coming  season,  if  closely  cut  back.  Some, 
like  the  Altheas  and  the  Punicled  Hydrangea,  need  this 
every  year  to  prevent  them  from  growing  unshapely. 

By  discriminating  between  these  two  classes  of  shrubs, 
and  adapting  the  pruning  to  the  peculiar  habits  of  each, 
then  heeding  the  instructions  on  Summer  Pruning  given 
in  June,  no  one  ought  to  find  any  difficulty  in  pruning 
his  shrubs  satisfactorily. 

Climbers  on  buildings,  arbors,  etc.,  need  but  little, 
and  in  fact  as  a  rule  no  regular  pruning.  If  they  get 
thin  and  straggling,  then  the  free  use  of  the  knife  will 
work  good  results  in  the  way  of  closer  growth.  Those 
on  trellises  and  other  places  of  limited  extent,  can  be 
controlled  to  any  desired  degree  by  the  use  of  the  knife. 

Deciduous  Hedges  may  be  trimmed  at  this  time.  The 
notes  under  April  on  trimming  evergreen  hedges  are  ap- 
pliable  in  a  large  measure  to  these  also.  Honey  Locust 
and  Osage  Orange  hedges  may  be  formed  of  a  good  size 
soonest  by  allowing  the  plants  to  grow  untrimmed,  until 
they  are  an  inch  through  at  the  ground,  and  then  cut- 
ting them  down  almost  to  the  ground,  somewhat  as  is 
shown  in  figure  137.  Such  treatment  causes  a  vigorous 
new  growth  to  start  up,  which  will  develop  into  a  well 
formed  hedge  very  quickly.  Such  hedges  in  after  years 
must  be  trimmed  annually  the  same  as  any  other  kinds 
of  hedges. 

MANURE. 

Whether  gardening  for  pleasure  or  profit,  the  ground 
must  not  be  cropped  year  after  year,  not  even  of  grass  on 
the  lawn,  without  returning  some  equivalent  in  the  shape 
of  manure.  Hauling  in  a  year's  supply  of  manure  may 
be  done  at  any  time  during  the  winter.  Every  garden, 
unless  a  very  small  one,  should  have  its  manure-heap  in 
some  out-of-the-way,  yet  convenient,  place.  As  to  kinds, 
well  decomposed  stable  manure,  if  it  can  be  procured, 


FEBRUARY.  345 

even  at  a  good  deal  of  trouble,  should  be  preferred  to  all 
others.  Guano  and  superphosphates  in  moderate  quan- 
tity are  well  enough,  but  if  used  alone — especially  in 
heavy  land — they  do  not  provide  that  openness  of  the 
soil  that  tends  to  the  retention  of  moisture,  and  the  ad- 
mission of  air,  so  essential  to  perfect  vegetation.  Cow 
droppings,  a  year  or  upwards  old,  that  have  been  turned 
occasionally  to  aid  in  decay,  form  the  best  of  all  ma- 
nures. In  time  it  will  become  as  fine  as  the  soil,  and 
provision  should  be  made  to  have  a  supply  of  this  on 
hand  for  top-dressing  the  lawn,  mixing  with  potting 
soils  and  other  uses.  Of  the  artificial  manures,  those 
composed  largely  of  bone  and  other  animal  matter  should 
be  preferred.  True  and  so-called  Guanos  of  different 
kinds  are  in  the  markets,  and  these  are  mostly  very  good. 
Sometimes  good  street  scrapings  or  similar  matters  are 
easy  to  procure;  these,  if  allowed  to  lay  a  while,  with  an 
occasional  working  over,  prove  valuable  for  mixing  with 
the  soil  or  sub-soil.  Kefuse  hops  from  breweries,  after 
laying  awhile  and  being  forked  over  a  number  of  times, 
become  as  fine  and  useful  a  manure  as  can  well  be  found; 
it  possesses  high  fertilizing  properties.  The  same  is  true 
of  decayed  leaves  from  the  woods,  excepting  that  it  takes 
a  much  longer  time  for  these  to  become  reduced  to  a  fine 
friable  mould. 

RUSTIC   WOBK,    TRELLISES,    ETC. 

Repairing  and  improving  of  these  should  be  done  before 
the  press  of  other  spring  work  comes  on.  Root  rustic 
work,  having  shaved  surfaces,  ought  to  receive  a  coat  or 
two  of  linseed  oil  yearly.  Vases,  trellises,  or  other  painted 
garden  work  may  now  be  put  in  order,  by  cleaning  and 
painting.  Prepare  new  trellises  in  good  season.  Plant- 
boxes,  stakes,  labels,  and  such  things  as  will  be  needed 
during  spring  and  summer,  should  now  be  made  ready. 


346  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 
MARCH. 

THE     LAWN. 

As  soon  as  the  snow  and  frost  leave  the  ground,  and  a 
few  dry  days  have  taken  off  the  excess  of  moisture,  all 
grass  plats  should  be  cleaned  of  any  remaining  fall-ap- 
plied manure  or  other  litter,  by  the  use  of  the  rake,  and 
rolled  to  remove  the  roughness  they  usually  present  after 
winter.  In  many  places  fall  manuring  of  the  lawn  is 
very  reasonably  objected  too  on  account  of  the  presence 
of  the  unsightly  coat  for  so  many  months.  Where  this 
is  the  case,  manure  may  be  applied  as  soon  as  the  snow 
leaves  in  the  spring,  and  by  leaving  it  on  through  the 
spring  rains  the  benefits  derived  will  nearly  equal  those 
of  fall  manuring,  and  the  lawn  be  disfigured  for  a  few 
weeks  only. 

GRAVEL  WALKS. 

Go  over  with  a  heavy  roller,  after  the  frost  is  gone,  to 
settle  them.  Once  in  every  three  to  five  years  the  sur- 
face of  the  gravel  ought  to  be  turned  over  and  rolled 
down  again  to  give  it  new  shape. 

SHRUBS   AND   TREES. 

There  need  be  no  hurry  to  uncover  tender  or  newly 
planted  shrubs  and  trees  that  have  been  protected.  The 
alternate  freezing  and  thawing  they  are  subjected  to  in 
severe,  late  springs,  is  very  injurious.  When  uncovered, 
they  should  at  once  receive  any  pruning  they  may  need. 
If  the  general  pruning  of  the  hardy  shrubs  and  trees  has 
not  yet  been  done,  it  should  receive  early  attention. 


MARCH.  347 


After  hard  freezing  weather  is  over,  roses  should  be 
pruned.  In  the  South  this  may  be  done  earlier  than 
March,  in  the  North  April  may  not  be  too  late.  When  the 
winter  covering  is  removed,  pruning  should  follow;  this 
should  be  governed  by  the  kinds  and  the  objects  in  view. 
Most  of  the  monthly  roses,  such  as  the  China,  Bengal, 
and  Noisettes,  that  may  have  wintered  safely,  should  be 
cut  back  to  mere  stumps,  leaving  one  to  three  eyes  on 
each  stem.  The  strength  of  the  plant  will  then  go  into 
these,  making  strong  shoots,  loaded  with  an  abundance 
of  flowers.  With  the  Bourbons  and  Hybrid  Chinas,  the 
shoots  should  be  left  with  six  or  eight  eyes,  and  by  bend- 
ing down  the  lower  shoots  they  will  form  fine  heads. 

The  Hybrid  Perpetual  and  Jane  Roses  should  have  all 
decayed  and  weak  wood  cut  out.  Any  crowded  branches 
that  will  prevent  the  light  and  air  from  freely  penetrat- 
ing to  the  center,  should  be  cut  out.  The  remaining 
shoots,  which  are  to  produce  flowers,  should  then  be  cut 
back  to  about  six  eyes  from  the  base,  or  if  the  shoots  are 
very  strong,  a  few  more  may  be  allowed  to  remain.  The 
pegging  down  system  of  managing  these  and  the  Bourbon 
Roses  is  usually  very  satisfactory.  All  shoots  older  than 
those  of  last  year,  should  be  cut  away,  and  these  that  re- 
main should  be  bent  down,  with  the  ends  pegged  to  the 
ground  or  tied  to  stakes.  By  this  treatment  no  other 
cutting  back  is  needed,  except  to  trim  away  weak  and 
unshapely  shoots. 

Moss  'Roses  will  bear  about  the  same  treatment  as  the 
last  named  class,  whether  grown  as  bushes  or  pegged 
down,  and  they  may  be  yet  closer  pruned.  But  this  will 
not  apply  to  the  Princess  Adelaide  variety,  which  must 
not  be  severely  pruned. 

The  Yellow  Roses  scarcely  require  any  pruning,  fur- 
ther than  to  remove  dead  and  weak  shoots.  If  the  plants 


348  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

assume  an  unshapely  form,  they  should  be  so  pruned  as 
to  make  a  better  head,  even  if  it  be  at  the  expense  of 
some  flowers  for  the  following  season. 

The  Climbing  Roses  need  only  to  have  the  poor  wood 
cut  away,  and  the  strongest  shoots  shortened  in.  Nail 
and  re-nail  as  needed,  before  the  young  growth  starts. 

BORDERS. 

Early  in  the  spring,  any  covering  that  was  put  on 
these  in  the  fall,  should  be  removed.  Do  not  dig  the 
soil  until  it  is  dry  enough  to  work  up  loosely.  Each 
spring,  at  the  first  working  of  the  soil,  a  little  rich  ma- 
nure— the  older  and  finer  the  better,  should  be  dug  in. 

IMPROVEMENTS. 

Any  contemplated  garden  improvements  should  be 
completed  as  soon  as  the  ground  will  work  well.  Avoid 
working  the  soil  when  it  is  wet,  as  bad  effects  will  be 
manifest  for  the  entire  season.  Sodding  may  be  done 
very  early  in  the  spring. 

ANNUALS  AND   BULBS. 

As  soon  in  the  spring  as  the  soil  will  work  up  finely, 
whether  now  or  later,  bulbs  of  the  Gladiolus  for  an 
early  crop  of  flowers,  may  be  planted,  and  seeds  of  most 
of  the  hardy  annuals  be  sown  in  the  open  border.  For 
this  purpose  drills  from  one  to  two  inches  deep  should  be 
opened,  in  which  the  seeds  should  be  scattered  along 
quite  thickly,  afterwards  covering  them  with  earth.  If 
the  soil  where  the  drills  are  made  is  inclined  to  be  lumpy, 
cover  the  seeds  with  some  light  mould  that  has  been  run 
through  a  fine  sieve,  and  to  which  some  sand  has  been 
added.  After  covering,  press  the  soil  quite  firmly  with 
the  back  of  a  hoe,  or  by  patting  it  with  the  garden 


APRIL.    '  349 

trowel.  If  the  soil  in  which  the  seeds  are  sown  is  quite 
damp,  watering  it  afterwards  is  not  necessary,  but  other- 
wise this  should  be  done,  afterwards  scattering  a  slight 
covering  of  clean  straw,  hay,  or  moss,  over  the  watered 
parts,  to  retain  moisture  and  prevent  baking  by  the  sun. 
But  this  covering  must  be  taken  off  as  soon  as  the  young 
plants  appear.  Sometimes  I  have  watered  the  bottom 
of  the  drill  before  dropping  the  seeds  ;  after  covering 
with  fine  soil  no  further  watering  is  necessary ;  this 
method  has  always  resulted  well. 

INSECTS,    ETC. 

Canker  worms  begin  to  ascend  the  trees  as  soon  as  the 
ground  thaws.-  Any  protector  that  is  so  contrived  that 
they  cannot  get  over  it,  placed  around  the  tree,  is  the 
only  sure  preventive  against  their  ravages.  Mosses  and 
Lichens  on  the  bark  of  trees  may  be  washed  off  with  ley 
or  soap  suds. 


CHAPTER   XL. 
APRIL. 

PLANTING. 

Early  April,  whenever  the  season  is  open,  is  the  best 
time  for  planting  trees,  shrubs,  and  hardy  plants,  and 
the  work  should  go  on  as  soon  as  the  soil  is  in  good  con- 
dition and  the  stock  is  at  hand.  If  trees,  etc.,  are  set 
now,  while  the  vegetation  is  yet  inactive,  there  is  achance 
for  the  roots  to  become  established  in  a  more  natural 
way,  than  if  the  setting  is  deferred  considerably  later, 
and  the  chances  against  loss  are  greatly  lessened.  Ever- 
greens may  be  set  several  weeks  later  than  deciduous 
trees,  but  the  sooner  even  these  are  planted  the  better. 
For  directions  on  planting  see  Part  IV. 


350  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

LAWNS. 

New  lawns  may  be  started  by  seeding  or  sodding.  Old 
lawns  should  be  well  rolled  and  thoroughly  raked  to  re- 
move the  dead  grass  or  manure,  and  to  liven  up  the  sur- 
face. The  grass  will  start  rapidly  with  warm  weather, 
and  the  mower  should  be  put  in  action  as  soon  as  needed. 

PRUNING   EVERGREENS. 

Now  is  a  good  time  for  this  work.  If  Spruces,  Hem- 
locks, Firs,  Arbor  Vitaes,  Junipers,  and  Japan  Cypress, 
are  in  places  too  contracted  to  allow  of  their  full  develop- 
ment, they  may  be  clipped  every  year  and  kept  at  almost 
any  desired  size.  By  thus  cutting  them  they  grow  dense 
and  handsome,  which  is  very  desirable,  especially  with 
that  general  favorite,  the  Norway  Spruce,  for  this  tree, 
without  pruning,  in  time  assumes  an  open  style  of  growth 
not  pleasing  for  small  grounds.  In  gardens  and  cemeteries 
it  is  best  to  treat  this  tree  by  heading  it  back,  at  about 
twelve  feet  in  high  t,  to  form  dense  rounded  specimens.  The 
Pines  are  rarely  better  for  pruning,  although  some  kinds, 
like  the  White  Pine,  are  very  tractable  under  the  shears. 
Whatever  kinds  are  being  pruned,  their  natural  form  of 
growth  should  usually  indicate  the  shape,  such  as  trim- 
ming the  conical  growers  to  a  cone,  and  so  on. 

As  a  rule,  no  cutting  should  be  done  further  back  than 
the  last  year's  growth,  although  no  harm  is  likely  to  come 
from  so  doing,  if  for  any  reason  it  seems  best.  Always 
cut  a  branch  back  to  some  strong  bud,  so  that  the  new 
growth  may  start  apparently  from  the  end  of  the  re- 
maining part.  If  the  growth  ought  to  be  stopped  in 
any  direction,  with  a  view  to  securing  symmetry  or  to 
have  the  tree  thicken,  this  may  be  effected  without  the 
blemish  of  a  cut,  by  simply  removing  the  center  bud. 

If  any  kind  of  evergreen  is  becoming  bare  at  the  base, 


APKIL.  351 

it  may  be  improved  by  severely  cutting  the  leader  and 
side  branches.  The  beauty  of  an  evergreen  depends 
much  upon  being  furnished  with  branches  to  the  ground, 
and  it  is  a  very  ungardener-like  practice,  intolerable  to 
every  correct  notion  of  evergreen  beauty,  to  prune  away 
the  lower  branches  and  expose  a  naked  trunk. 

Sometimes  Pines  are  inclined  to  turn  up  a  side  shoot 
as  a  new  leader.  Such  should  be  cut  away,  and  in  time 
the  leader  will  come  in  the  right  place.  If  a  leader  in 
any  conifer  is  lost  by  accident,  another  one  may  be  had  in 
its  place,  by  tying  a  side  shoot  in  an  erect  position.  The 
American  Arbor  Vitae,  some  of  the  Firs,  as  well  as  others, 
are  inclined  to  form  several  leaders,  and  if  allowed  to  do 
this  they  will  assume  a  bad  shape.  By  trimming  all  the 
branches,  excepting  the  main  one,  that  will  be  strengthened 
and  better  able  to  retain  its  position  as  leader. 

EVERGREEN"  HEDGES  AND   CLIPPED  TREES. 

The  most  perfect  form  of  a  hedge  for  pyramidal  grow- 
ing kinds,  is  one  that  slopes  more  or  less  on  the  sides,  as 
in  figure  78,  A,  p.  232,  thus  admitting  sun  and  light  to 
the  bottom,  as  well  as  the  top.  This  should  generally  be 
the  form  for  long  hedges.  The  same  engraving  gives 
several  forms  suitable  for  shorter  hedges  of  various  kinds. 
In  trimming,  shears  should  be  used,  and  the  operation  may 
be  guided  by  the  help  of  a  stretched  line,  where  precision 
is  desirable,  pains  being  taken  to  give  it  an  even,  unhag- 
gled  appearance.  To  allow  a  hedge  to  go  un  trimmed  for 
a  number  of  years,  is  certain  to  soon  injure  it  beyond  all 
remedy.  Most  hedge  plants  naturally  grow  to  forty  or 
more  feet  in  hight,  and  to  allow  a  row  of  these  standing 
close  in  the  hedge,  to  shoot  up  without  check,  is  to  bring 
disaster  to  the  row  in  time. 

The  trimming  of  trees  that  are  kept  to  definite  forms, 
is  not  materially  different  in  principle  from  that  of  hedges. 


352  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

It  should  be  done  with  care  with  a  view  to  good  form  and 
evenness,  going  over  the  work  several  times  if  need  be. 
Box  Edging  may  be  reset  in  April  or  earlier.  The 
ground  where  the  line  is  to  come  should  be  rendered  firm 
by  treading  or  beating.  Then  a  narrow  trench  is  cut 
with  great  precision,  the  unbroken  part  on  the  line  of 
the  desired  edging.  The  box  plants  pulled  apart  may 
have  the  ends  of  roots  and  tops  clipped  off  a  little,  and 
then  should  be  set  along  in  the  trench  close  together, 
and  projecting  an  inch  above  the  surface  of  the  soil. 
Loose  soil  is  then  filled  in  by  layers,  and  firmly  trodden 
against  the  plants,  until  the  trench  is  full.  The  edging 
should  have  the  gravel  of  the  walk  brought  up  against  it, 
so  that  no  soil  will  show  on  the  walk  side  of  the  line. 
If  box  edging  is  kept  small  by  clipping — say  to  four  or  six 
inches  in  night,  it  may  last  ten  years  without  resetting. 
The  edgings  should  be  clipped  annually  at  this  season. 

HARDY   PLANTS. 

These  are  benefited  by  being  lifted,  and  divided  if 
large,  and  set  in  new  positions  every  three  years  for 
strong  growers,  and  every  five  years  for  others.  Clumps 
of  such  kinds  as  make  many  fibrous  roots  and  numerous 
buds,  may  be  divided  with  a  sharp  spade,  leaving  half  a 
dozen  or  more  eyes  on  each  piece.  Those  that  have  large 
or  coarser  roots  need  more  care.  A  knife  should  be  used 
on  these,  taking  care  that  each  piece  of  root  to  be  reset 
has  at  least  one  eye. 

FLOWER  BEDS. 

Those  to  be  planted  with  tender  bedding  plants  may 
be  worked  over  and  made  friable  as  a  preparation  towards 
receiving  the  plants  later.  By  doing  this  now,  the 
ground  will  be  in  a  fine  condition  at  planting  time,  be- 
sides the  beds  will  look  better  if  thus  treated.  See  An- 
nuals under  March. 


MAY.  353 

WEEDS. 

The  fight  against  weeds  should  commence  with  their 
first  appearance.  Some  kinds,  like  the  Chickweed,  and 
Shepherd's  Purse,  start  up  early,  and  soon  develop  flowers 
and  seeds,  to  make  trouble  afterwards  if  not  kept  down 
by  cultivation.  See  Weeds  under  May. 

EOCKWOEK. 

If  the  rocks  have  become  disturbed  by  the  action  of 
the  frost  during  winter,  they  should  at  once  be  put  in 
order. 

HAEDY  AQUARIUMS. 

The  ground  in  these  should  be  kept  covered  with  water 
in  increasing  quantity  as  the  plants  start  into  growth. 


CHAPTER  XLI. 

MAY. 
THE   LAWK. 

The  care  of  the  lawn  will  be  about  the  same  for  every 
month,  from  now  until  the  end  of  the  season,  and  will 
consist  chiefly  in  keeping  it  properly  mown,  watered,  and 
free  from  weeds.  When  the  grass  grows  rapidly  it  will 
be  necessary  to  mow  about  every  week.  It  is  always 
bother  and  more  economical  of  labor,  to  cut  the  grass 
when  only  two  inches  high,  than  to  wait  until  it  is  four 
or  six.  The  present  hand  lawn  mowers  are  greatly  pref- 
erable to  the  scythe  for  mowing  even  quite  small  places. 
On  large  grounds  the  horse  mowers  may  be  used  with 
economy.  Still,  in  mowing  some  parts,  as  about  thickets 
and  trees,  the  scythe  and  sickle  are  indispensable  helps. 


354:  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

In  running  a  lawn  mower,  the  operator  should  be  par- 
ticular to  always  set  both  sides  at  the  same  hight,  so  that 
the  surface  of  the  grass  may  be  even  when  the  work  is 
done.  That  no  lines  of  uncut  grass  should  be  left,  ought 
to  occur  to  every  mower,  yet  lawns  may  sometimes  be 
seen  that  show  defects  of  this  kind. 

WEEDS. 

A  large  share  of  the  annoyance  in  gardening  comes 
from  weeds.  It  is  really  surprising  how  soon  slight  neg- 
lect will  show  multitudes  of  weeds  in  lawn,  walks,  and 
elsewhere.  A  little  labor  judiciously  applied,  will  easily 
keep  a  place  clear  of  these.  A  great  secret  is  to  attack 
weeds  when  they  are  small,  so  small  that  they  will  not 
require  removal  when  cut  off.  If  this  is  done  at  the 
right  time,  it  will  be  less  work  to  keep  a  garden  thoroughly 
clean  than  to  keep  it  half  clean.  Now  weeds  arc  gross 
feeders,  and  rob  the  garden  plants  of  food  and  moisture. 

The  best  way  to  remove  spreading  weeds,  like  plantain, 
dandelion,  docks,  etc.,  from  the  lawn,  is  to  cut  them  off 
just  below  the  crown,  disturbing  the  soil  as  little  as  pos- 
sible. Any  holes  that  appear  should  be  filled  with  earth, 
and  the  grass  will  soon  spread  over  these  spots.  By  cut- 
ting out  every  two  weeks  all  that  appear,  every  noxious 
weed  may  soon  be  exterminated,  for  no  plant  can  live  if 
its  leafy  or  above  ground  portion  is  persistently  destroyed 
every  time  it  appears.  Coarse  grasses,  unfit  for  lawns, 
sometimes  start  up  from  seeds  carried  in.  by  the  wind, 
and  these  must  be  treated  as  any  other  weeds.  Allowing 
any  kinds  of  weeds  to  go  to  seed  in  the  ornamental  gar- 
den is  the  hight  of  mismanagement. 

For  ridding  walks  of  weeds,  salting  is  the  best  plan, 
except  near  the  edges,  where  salt  will  kill  the  roots  of 
grass  or  plants  that  come  near,  hero  they  must  be  hand- 
picked. 


MAY.  355 

PLANTING  OUT. 

Every  year  there  are  those  who,  in  their  haste  to  see 
the  tender  flowers  in  bloom,  subject  them  to  the  exposure 
of  chilly,  windy  days  or  frosts,  only  to  enfeeble  them 
and  injure  their  future  usefulness.  As  a  rule,  in  the 
North,  few  tender  green-house  plants  or  half-hardy  annu- 
als should  be  set  earlier  than  May  25th,  while  long  experi- 
ence shows  that  nine  times  out  of  ten,  all  tender  things, 
like  Coleus,  planted  as  late  as  the  first  of  June,  will  go 
ahead  and  excel  in  size  and  beauty,  those  that  were  set 
two  weeks  earlier.  Verbenas,  Hoses,  Carnations,  Pinks, 
Stocks,  and  other  plants  that  are  not  affected  by  a  slight 
frost,  may  be  planted  out  several  weeks  earlier.  Gladi- 
olus, Tigridias,  and  Dahlias,  may  be  planted  any  time  in 
the  month.  Tuberoses  should  not  go  out  before  the 
20th  of  the  month. 

SUB-TKOPICAL  GARDENS  AND   ROCKERIES. 

The  former  may  be  arranged  for  the  season,  and  the 
latter  brightened  with  tender  flowering  kinds,  and  those 
with  showy  foliage,  as  soon  as  warm  weather  is  established. 

SEED  SOWING. 

Seeds  of  all  the  hardy  and  half-hardy  annuals  may  be 
sown  any  time  during  the  month,  and  those  of  tender 
annuals  after  the  10th  of  the  month,  and  earlier  in  the 
South. 

ROSES,    INSECTS,    ETC. 

To  \vards  the  end  of  May,  and  later,  insects  will  begin 
to  trouble  rose  bushes.  The  Rose  Saw-fly,  especially  in 
its  caterpillar  state,  known  as  the  Eose  Slug,  is  one  of  the 
most  annoying  pests,  but  with  attention  to  keeping  them 
down,  the  plants  maybe  saved  from  serious  depredations. 
In  the  fly  state  they  are  of  a  shiny  black  color,  about  one- 
fifth  of  an  inch  in  length,  and  found  mostly  on  the  un- 


356  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

der  side  of  the  leaves,  or  flying  from  bush  to  bush.  The 
first  young  slugs  hatch  out  usually  about  June  1st,  and 
increase  in  number  during  the  month.  These  are  of  a 
pale  green  color,  almost  transparent,  and  feed  upon  the 
leaves,  which  soon  look  as  if  they  had  been  burned.  Dry 
slaked  lime  scattered  over  the  leaves  while  wet  with  dew 
is  a  most  convenient  remedy  that  often  proves  effectual  ; 
but  a  more  sure  one  may  be  had  in  frequently  syringing 
the  plant  with  whale  oil  soap  dissolved  in  water  in  the 
proportion  of  one  pound  to  eight  gallons  of  water ;  many 
of  the  flies  can  also  be  destroyed  with  this  solution  if 
applied  when  they  first  appear.  The  Kose  Chafer,  or 
Rose-bug,  is  a  troublesome  insect,  a  small  beetle,  with 
a  slender  body,  tapering  before  and  behind,  measuring 
near  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  length,  and  covered  with 
ashen-yellow  down.  They  usually  appear  towards  the 
middle  of  June,  and  remain  from  four  to  six  weeks. 
About  the  only  way  of  destroying  these  is  to  pass  over 
the  plants  daily,  shake  or  brush  them  into  tin  vessels 
containing  water  upon  which  a  little  kerosene  is  floating, 
or  they  may  be  gathered  on  sheets  and  burned. 

Mildew  is  a  fungoid  growth  which  shows  itself  upon 
the  leaves  and  small  twigs.  It  has  a  gray  mould-like  ap- 
pearance, and  seems  to  be  invited  by  anything  that  causes 
the  growth  of  the  plant  to  be  suddenly  checked.  The 
ordinary  agent  for  destroying  mildew  is  flowers  of  sulphur 
dusted  upon  the  leaves  after  wetting  them,  every  few  days, 
until  no  more  is  seen.  Eust  frequently  troubles  Roses  in 
the  garden,  appearing  on  the  leaves.  Cut  off  and  burn 
the  infected  branches. 

SUMMER    MULCHING. 

Borders  containing  Rhododendrons,  Lilies,  and  other 
plants  that  love  coolness  and  moisture  at  the  roots, 
should  early  in  the  season  receive  a  heavy  mulch  of 
leaves,  cut  straw,  bog-hay,  or  tanbark. 


JUNE.  357 

CHAPTER  XLII. 
JUNE. 

PLANTING  OUT. 

Early  June  should  see  all  the  beds  planted,  as  now 
everything  may  be  trusted  outside.  Those  who  wait 
until  the  present  month  for  setting  out  their  tender 
plants,  have  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  them  start  off  with 
a  vigorous  growth  from  the  first. 


This  is  the  great  Eose  month.  After  the  Remontanta 
or  Hybrid  Perpetuals  have  bloomed,  by  shortening  in  the 
branches  somewhat,  the  plants  will  be  inclined  to  flower 
better  in  the  autumn.  Monthly  Roses  flower  more  freely 
as  a  rule,  for  having  the  branches  pegged  to  the  ground. 
Observe  last  month's  notes  on  insects. 

SPROUTS,    SUCKERS,    AND    "SPORTS." 

All  through  the  growing  season  a  look-out  should  be 
kept  for  sprouts  that  may  start  up  from  the  roots  of 
shrubs  like  Lilacs,  Oleasters,  etc.,  or  from  strong-grow- 
ing kinds  of  stocks,  such  as  are  used  for  grafting  or  bud- 
ding. The  stocks  of  Kilmarnock  and  other  Willows, 
Weeping  Poplar,  Roses,  and  many  others,  often  throw  up 
such  shoots.  These  should  be  removed  as  they  appear, 
for  if  allowed  to  get  a  start  they  draw  vitality  from  the 
tree,  at  the  expense  of  the  budded  or  grafted  part.  Many 
persons  are  deceived  by  such  shoots,  and  permit  them  to 
grow,  which  of  course  in  the  end  can  only  result  in  dam- 
age or  outright  death  to  the  improved  and  always  some- 
what feebler  part.  We  may  sometimes  meet  a  coarse, 
wild  Willow  or  Rose  in  pleasure  grounds,  that  made  its 


358  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

start  in  this  way,  the  improved  part  of  which  died  long 
ago.  Some  handsome  shrubs  like  the  Waxberry,  bend 
down  the  tips  of  the  branches,  which  take  root ;  the 
plants  thus  formed  should  be  treated  as  weeds,  unless  it 
is  desired  to  multiply  them,  when  they  should  be  removed 
and  cultivated  elsewhere  for  later  planting.  .  . 

Most  of  the  shrubs,  trees,  and  plants,  with  variegated, 
cut,  or  curled  leaves,  are  what  are  called  "sports" — that 
is,  they  are  departures  from  the  ordinary  forms  of 
the  plants,  and  which  have  been  propagated  for  these  pe- 
culiarities which  are  more  or  less  distinctly  fixed.  There 
is  sometimes  an  inclination  in  such  growths  to  revert  to 
the  normal  form,  and  this  should  be  prevented  by  cut- 
ting out  any  parts  that  fail  to  show  the  peculiarity.  The 
beautiful  variegated-leaved  Kerria  and  Waxberry,  need 
rather  close  watching  on  this  account. 

CONTROLLING  THE   HABITS   OF    TREES  AND   SHRUBS. 

The  Junipers  of  erect  habit  are  striking  garden  orna- 
ments if  of  good  forms.  But  sometimes  they  are  disposed 
to  spread  out  and  receive  damage  by  the  lodging  of  snow 
in  the  centers.  A  few  wires  placed  closely  around  them 
will  obviate  this  trouble,  and  lead  to  good  forms.  Weep- 
ing trees,  like  the  American  Willow,  Poplar,  Ash,  etc., 
may  be  improved  in  symmetry  by  extending  a  large  hoop 
around  the  tree,  to  which  the  branches  are  brought  and 
secured.  When  a  tree  is  crooked  or  is  disposed  to  lean 
from  the  perpendicular,  it  should  be  straightened  while 
young,  by  tying  it  to  a  stake  driven  in  at  its  side,  or  if  it 
merely  leans  over,  by  the  less  conspicuous  means  of  set- 
ting a  short  stake  a  little  ways  off,  drawing  the  tree 
towards  it  by  means  of  a  wire,  one  end  of  which  is 
attached  to  the  tree  by  means  of  a  leather  strap,  and  the 
other  end  wound  around  the  stake.  It  may  be  noted 
that  crooks  in  young  tree  trunks  naturally  decrease  as 


JUNE.  359 

the  tree  grows.  Honeysuckles  and  other  climbers,  grown 
as  standards,  by  stopping  the  leading  shoots  at  five  or  six 
feet,  should  be  furnished  with  stakes  or  supports  as 
needed. 

SUMMER   PRUNING. 

Those  shrubs  which  flower  on  last  season's  growth  (seo 
Pruning  under  February),  and  which  if  pruned  severely 
in  winter,  are  robbed  of  flower  buds,  may  have  their 
growth  controlled  by  summer  pruning.  This  is  best . 
done  by  shortening  back  the  old  wood  just  after  flowering, 
cutting  out  entirely  any  branches  that  seem  to  be  useless 
and  in  the  way.  By  these  means  a  free  growth  of  young 
wood  for  flowering  the  next  year  will  be  promoted.  Then 
later,  throughout  the  growing  season,  any  shoots  that 
grow  too  rank  may  be  pinched  back  to  control  the  form 
of  the  shrub.  The  tendency  of  Fir  trees  to  run  up 
tall  and  lose  their  lower  branches,  may  be  overcome  by 
cutting  back  the  leading  shoots  occasionally.  Early 
summer  pruning  of  the  Norway  Spruce,  cutting  away 
one  half  of  the  young  growth  now,  will  lead  to  the  starting 
of  many  side  buds  on  each,  causing  the  tree  to  become 
very  compact. 

HEDGES  AND   CLIPPED   TREES. 

Any  treatment  that  tends  to  check  the  growth  of  these, 
without  impairing  healthfulness,  is  desirable.  Shearing 
either  evergreens  or  deciduous  kinds,  just  as  the  present 
season's  growth  begins  to  harden,  has  some  such  an  effect. 

THE   LAWN. 

Pains  should  be  taken  to  have  it  well  and  evenly  mowed. 
Keep  all  verges  properly  clipped  along  the  walks,  borders, 
and  buildings.  To  leave  this  undone,  is  to  give  a  place 
a  slovenly  appearance.  See  under  May  and  July. 


360  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

WALKS   AND  DRIVES. 

Keep  them  clear  of  weeds  and  litter.  Roll  those  of 
gravel  occasionally,  and  keep  the  edges  tidy.  Sprinkling 
the  walks  tends  to  agreeable  coolness. 

BORDERS  AND   FLOWER  BEDS. 

Tender  bedding  plants  of  every  description  should  now 
be  out.  Hyacinths  and  Tulips  produce  better  flowers  if 
the  bulbs  are  lifted  after  the  foliage  begins  to  wither, 
keeping  them  in  a  dry,  cool  place  during  summer,  and 
resetting  them  again  in  October.  Annuals  that  were 
sown  in  the  border,  should  be  thinned  where  they  are 
crowded.  Work  the  soil  frequently  to  keep  down  weeds, 
and  promote  the  growth  of  the  plants.  Small  borders 
kept  open  around  trees,  need  careful  attention  as  regards 
this.  See  Flower  Beds  under  July. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Save  seeds  from  Pansies  and  other  plants,  and  for  fall 
flowers  of  Pansies,  sow  towards  the  end  of  the  month.  In 
the  Wild  Garden  remove,  or  keep  in  check,  coarse  weeds. 
Keep  Hardy  Plant  Aquariums  supplied  with  water.  Peg 
down  Verbenas  and  Monthly  Eoses.  Any  young  trees  of 
a  delicate  nature  are  benefited  by  having  their  trunks 
protected  from  the  hot  sun  for  a  few  years,  by  matting 
bound  around  them,  and  a  mulch  over  the  roots.  Pro- 
vide Sweet .  Peas  with  trellises,  and  all  other  climbers 
with  the  needed  support. 

INSECTS. 

Sometimes  the  white  grub  works  much  damage  to  the 
roots  of  plants.  If  plants  in  the  beds  or  border  that  were 
healthy,  are  seen  to  turn  yellowish  and  cease  growing, 


JULY   AND   AUGUST.  361 

suspect  the  presence  of  the  white  grub  and  dig  down, 
find,  and  kill  it.  Angle,  and  other  worms,  sometimes 
trouble  lawns,  and  may  be  killed  by  slaking  a  half  peck 
of  lime  in  a  barrel  of  water,  and  after  it  is  well  settled 
applying  the  clear  liquid  freely  with  a  watering  can. 
This  lime  water  will  also  destroy  the  aphides  that  attack 
the  roots  of  trees  or  plants,  and  in  fact  all  soft  bodied 
worms  and  insects,  and  do  the  most  delicate  plants  no 
harm.  If  Plant  Lice  or  Wooly  Aphides  appear  on  the 
stems  and  leaves,  bend  these  down  into  a  pail  of  tobacco 
or  quassia  water ;  if  on  the  trunks  and  branches,  use  a 
brush,  and  vigorously  apply  the  liquid.  Ants  are  often 
troublesome,  and  may  be  destroyed  by  putting  some  fresh 
bones  or  a  sponge  saturated  with  sugar  water  in  places 
where  they  resort,  and  after  they  collect  upon  and  cover 
these,  which  they  soon  will  do,  drop  them  into  boiling 
water  or  burn  them.  This  should  be  repeated  until  all 
the  ants  are  gone. 


CHAPTER   XLIII. 

JULY    AND    AUGUST. 

SUMMER    WATERING. 

Nothing  can  go  farther  towards  making  our  gardens 
pleasant  in  summer,  than  to  have  the  grass,  plants,  and 
trees  in  green,  vigorous  condition  during  the  hot,  dry 
spells,  so  common  at  this  season.  Where  water  is  plenty 
this  is  easily  accomplished.  In  watering  lawns,  means 
must  be  provided  to  conduct  the  water  to  all  points  where 
it  is  needed,  and  a  contrivance  must  be  provided  for  dis- 
tributing it  properly.  Stands  and  distributing  nozzles 
for  this  purpose  are  for  sale  by  dealers.  Late  in  the  day 
is  the  best  time  to  have  the  sprinkler  in  operation.  Ter- 
16 


362  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

race  slopes  require  some  extra  care,  to  have  them  properly 
watered  at  this  season. 

Trees  and  shrubs  if  thoroughly  watered  at  times  during 
dry  weather,  will  repay  the  trouble,  in  greatly  increased 
growth  and  beauty.  Thorough  watering  is  the  means  of 
getting  large  trees  in  a  few  years.  The  best  time  to 
water  trees  is  during  or  immediately  after  a  rain,  because 
the  atmosphere  being  then  charged  with  moisture,  water 
at  the  root  does  more  good.  Water  thoroughly  by  giving 
each  tree  a  half  dozen  or  more  bucketfuls.  If  there  is 
no  depression  around  the  tree  to  hold  water,  puncture 
the  soil  with  the  tines  of  a  spading  fork,  for  a  space  as 
far  across  on  the  ground  as  the  top  of  the  tree  is  wide. 
In  cultivated  borders,  the  soil  can  be  drawn  back  from 
each  plant  or  tree  to  be  watered,  forming  a  basin  about 
it,  and  filling  it  again  and  again  with  water,  until  there  is 
enough.  The  next  day  the  basin  may  be  covered,  and 
the  surface  of  the  soil  mellowed  with  a  rake. 

In  watering  Flower  Beds,  where  plants  stand  close  to- 
gether, the  digging  fork  may  be  used  for  puncturing  the 
soil  to  admit  the  water.  Rockwork  and  the  out-door 
fernery  will  require  occasional  waterings  during  dry 
weather.  Supply  hanging  baskets,  plant  boxes,  and 
vases  with  plenty  of  water  at  all  times.  Enough  water 
should  be  used  on  these  to  thoroughly  moisten  every  por- 
tion of  the  soil  each  time  it  is  applied.  Do  not  be  satis- 
fied when  the  surface  looks  wet,  but  be  sure  the  earth  is 
soaked  to  the  very  center. 

Where  there  are  no  public  water- works  and  connections 
for  summer  watering,  every  garden  should  have  a  handy 
water- barrow.  For  large  grounds,  the  best  form  to 
choose  is  one  with  a  removable  tub,  so  that  while  one  tub 
is  being  emptied  another  may  be  filling.  The  pumping 
of  water  by  wind  or  other  power  into  tanks  sufficiently 
elevated  to  give  a  head  for  forcing  the  water  through 
pipes  and  hose,  all  around  a  place,  is  easily  arranged, 


JULY  AND   AUGUST.  3G3 

affording  a  complete,  economical,  and  independent  water- 
works in  every  garden. 

FLOWER    BEDS. 

These  ought  now  be  nearly  or  quite  at  their  best,  and 
the  keeping  of  them  in  presentable  shape  will  be  one  of 
the  chief  cares  at  this  time.  Carpet  beds  should  be  gone 
over  every  week,  and  the  plants  carefully  clipped  with  a 
view  to  keeping  them  low  and  solid,  and  maintaining 
clearly  denned  lines  between  the  different  kinds  in  the 
design.  This  is  work  upon  which  a  great  deal  of  skill 
may  be  expended.  Common  shears,  or  sheep  shears, 
having  a  spring  to  open  them,  are  used.  All  clip- 
pings should  be  removed,  as  well  as  any  weeds  that  may 
start  up.  To  reach  all  parts  of  beds  that  are  closely 
covered,  a  bridge  consisting  of  a  large  plank  supported 
at  the  ends  must  be  used. 

Cut  away  the  fading  flowers  of  all  plants ;  if  allowed 
to  ripen  seed,  the  flowering  will  be  impaired — besides, 
faded  flowers  mar  the  beauty  of  collections.  Double 
Balsams  are  more  attractive  if  they  have  some  pruning. 
Leave  one,  three,  or  five  branches,  as  best  suits  the  fancy, 
and  cut  away  the  others.  If  the  first  spikes  of  strong 
Gladiolus  are  cut  when  fairly  in  flower,  they  will  usually 
throw  up  a  number  of  new  spikes. 

SEED   SOWING   AND   PLANTING. 

There  are  a  number  Oi  hardy  plants  that  ripen  their 
seeds  by  mid-summer,  and  if  it  is  desired  to  propagate 
these,  the  seeds  should  be  sown  soon  after  they  are  ripe, 
or  any  time  before  the  middle  of  September.  Then  the 
seedling  plants  will  be  strong  enough  to  winter  over  in 
safety  and  flower  the  next  season.  Sow  in  a  seed-bed  of 
fine  soil;  keep  watered  and  shaded  until  the  plants  are 
up.  The  Common  or  White  Lily  (Lilium  candidum), 


364  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

should  be  transplanted  now,  as  this  is  its  natural  season 
of  rest. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Read  instructions  en  care  of  lawn,  walks,  weeds,  etc., 
of  previous  months.  Dahlias,  Gladiolus,  Hollyhocks, 
and  all  tall-growing  plants,  should  be  provided  with 
stakes  as  needed.  Let  them  be  simple,  neat,  and  painted  of 
some  inconspicuous  color.  Remove  .the  seed-pods  of  Rho- 
dodendrons early  after  flowering.  Borers  in  Acacia  and 
fruit  trees  should  be  dug  out,  whenever  there  are  signs 
of  their  presence  near  the  root.  Aquariums  must  be 
kept  filled  with  water  to  make  up  for  evaporation.  On 
Summer  Pruning  read  the  notes  under  June. 


CHAPTER  XLIV. 

SEPTEMBER. 

EAELY   FROSTS. 

In  this  month,  in  many  parts  of  the  country,  we  may 
look  for  the  first  touches  of  frost.  As  there  is  usually  a 
good  deal  of  fine,  warm  weather  after  the  first  frosts, 
flower-beds,  plants,  vases,  etc.,  should  be  covered  on 
nights  when  frost  is  threatened,  with  a  view  to  keeping 
up  the  beauty  for  such  later  delightful  spells  of  weather. 

PLANTING    DUTCH   BULBS. 

Planting  at  the  approach  of  the  fall  and  winter  season 
seems  so  contrary  to  the  general  order  of  things  to  many, 
that  this,  the  only  course  for  securing  fine  collections  of 
Tulips,  Hyacinths,  etc.,  is  often  neglected.  The  plant- 
ing of  such  bulbs  may  be  done  at  any  time  during  the 


OCTOBER.  365 

months  of  September,  October,  and  November,  or  even 
later,  provided  the  ground  remains  unfrozen.  It  is  best, 
however,  to  not  defer  the  work  much  after  the  first  of 
October.  Set  Tulips  five  or  six  inches  apart,  and  about 
five  inches  deep.  Hyacinths  may  be  planted  six  or  eight 
inches,  and  Crown  Imperials  at  a  foot  or  more  apart,  and 
at  the  same  depth  as  for  Tulips.  Crocuses  and  Snow- 
drops need  not  be  more  than  two  or  three  inches  apart, 
and  about  the  same  depth.  Planting  these  in  clumps  is 
the  most  effective  way  to  arrange  them.  Crocuses  and 
other  low-growing  kinds  may  be  planted  about  the  lawn 
in  the  grass,  and  will  thus  produce  a  pleasing  effect  early 
in  the  season. 

HARDY   PLANTS. 

Such  kinds  as  have  finished  flowering  and  are  past 
active  growth,  may  be  taken  up,  divided,  and  reset  dur- 
ing this  month  and  the  next.  See  notes  on  these  under 
April.  By  doing  this  early,  the  replanted  portions  have 
a  chance  to  become  established  before  winter,  and  flower 
better  the  next  year  than  if  divided  in  spring.  This  is 
particularly  true  of  Paeonies,  which  should  be  divided  in 
October. 


CHAPTER  XLV. 

OCTOBER. 

THE  LAWN. 

Grass  usually  grows  with  vigor  during  this  month,  and 
the  mowing  must  be  kept  up  as  needed.  Because  the 
end  of  the  season  is  near,  do  not  allow  weeds  to  start  up 
and  disfigure  the  grass  plat ;  keep  late  weeds  from  the 
walks,  drives,  and  borders. 


366  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING- 

BORDERS   AND   FLOWER  BEDS. 

Read  the  directions  on  Bulb  Planting  and  Hardy  Plants 
for  last  month.  Take  up  Tuberoses,  Dahlias,  Gladiolus, 
Cannas,  Caladiums,  Tigridias,  Madeira  Vines,  Erythriuas, 
a  few  days  after  the  frosts  have  blackened  the  plants. 
All  of  these,  excepting  Erythrinas,  should  be  dried  off  in 
the  shade,  and  when  perfectly  dry,  stored  until  spring. 
The  best  place  for  them  is  one  that  is  cool  and  dry,  and 
there  is  nothing  better  to  pack  them  in  than  dry  sand. 
Gladiolus  and  Tigridias  may  go  into  paper  bags. 

As  soon  as  the  flower-beds  become  disfigured  by  frosts, 
clear  them,  coat  the  surface  with  manure,  and  dig  them 
over  for  the  winter,  leaving  the  clods  of  earth  from  the 
spade  or  digging  fork  unbroken  during  this  operation, 
so  that  the  air  and  frost  may  have  full  effect  on  the  soil 
during  winter.  The  freezing  of  the  water,  held  by  the 
earth  in  this  shape,  causes  its  small  particles  to  be 
rent  asunder,  just  as  the  freezing  of  sap  In  plants  lacer- 
ates the  vessels,  and  makes  the  texture  of  the  soil  more 
friable  the  next  year.  In  borders,  where  shrubs  and 
hardy  plants  are  growing,  the  digging  should  not  be 
done  near  to  them  so  deeply  as  to  injure  the  roots. 

AUTUMN   SEED   SOWING. 

Early  in  October,  seeds  of  Sweet  Alyssum,  Callirrhoe, 
Candytuft,  Centaurea,  Clarkia,  Larkspur,  Lupines,  Mig- 
nonette, Nemophila,  Portulaca,  and  lawn  grasses,  may 
be  sown  wherever  the  soil  is  well  drained  and  not  heavy. 
Then  they  will  start  up  early  in  the  spring,  and  in  the 
case  of  the  annuals,  will  flower  freely,  much  earlier  than 
will  spring  sown  ones.  In  the  South  and  on  the  Pacific 
Coast,  all  hardy  and  half-hardy  annuals  may  be  sown  in 
the  Tall,  and  Gladiolus  be  planted. 


OCTOBER.  367 

SEEDLINGS. 

Pansies  and  other  plants  from  seeds  sown  in  the  sum- 
mer, will  be  showing  up  well  by  this  time.  Early  in  the 
month  they  may  be  pricked  out  into  beds  of  fine  soil,  at 
a  "distance  of  several  inches  apart  each  way,  to  allow 
them  to  develop  into  strong  plants  by  winter.  These, 
in  the  spring,  may  be  set  where  wanted  for  flowering. 
Pricking  out  or  dibbling  small  plants  is  frequently  done  in 
the  garden.  The  dibble  may  be  merely  a  smooth-pointed 
stick  for  small  plants,  as  large  as  a  finger.  In  using  the 
dibble  a  hole  is  made,  and  in  this  the  seedling  is  held, 
while  the  dibble  is  thrust  into  the  soil  a  second  time,  in  a 
way  to  crowd  the  earth  firmly  against  the  roots,  after- 
wards pricking  a  little  soil  into  hole  number  two,  to  even 
the  ground.  If  a  tip  of  a  leaf  will  break  when  pulled, 
without  bringing  up  the  plant,  it  is  considered  firmly 
enough  planted.  After  being  thus  set,  the  plants  should 
be  well  watered. 

IMPROVEMENTS. 

Usually,  now  is  the  season  of  the  yearr  to  make  improve- 
ments and  alterations,  in  the  line  of  grading,  draining, 
trenching,  etc.  The  soil  is  often  dry  at  this  time,  and 
the  air  cool  and  bracing,  a  state  of  things  under  which 
men  and  teams  will  do  almost  double  the  work  they 
would  if  land  is  loaded  with  water,  and  the  weather  dis- 
agreeable. 

Trees,  shrubs,  and  hardy  plants  may  be  planted  in 
October,  where  everything  is  ready  for  it.  The  earlier  it 
is  done  after  the  tenth,  the  better,  in  order  that  they 
may  gather  up  strength  before  winter.  If  the  leaves  re- 
main at  planting  time,  they  should  be  stripped  off  before 
taking  up  the  trees,  etc.  Evergreens  seldom  do  well 
planted  in  the  fall. 


368  ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 

CHAPTER    XLVT. 

NOVEMBER  AND  DECEMBER. 
FALL   MANURING. 

Every  other  year,  or  every  three  years,  the  lawn  should 
receive  a  top-dressing  of  manure,  and  provided  the  right 
article  of  this  is  at  hand,  the  fall  months  is  the  best  time 
to  apply  it.  The  best  top-dressing  is  an  inch  deep  of 
thoroughly  decayed  manure,  and  if  so  old  and  fine  that 
there  will  be  nothing  left  to  rake  off  in  the  spring,  all 
the  better.  Objections  to  fresh  manure  are  its  offen- 
siveness,  and  that  it  is  liable  to  contain  weed  seeds,  which 
will  make  trouble.  If  such  manure  is  at  hand,  the  apply- 
ing of  it  may  be  deferred  until  February  or  March,  for 
the  sake  of  not  having  it  on  so  long,  while  some  prefer 
that  time  for  applying  any  kinds  of  fertilizers.  Bone 
manures  are  excellent  for  the  lawn  and  free  from  weeds. 
Manure  should  also  be  applied  occasionally  as  a  surface 
dressing  under  plantations  of  all  evergreen  and  decidu- 
ous trees  and  shrubs.  Put  on  several  inches  here,  and  it 
will  tell  in  increased  vigor  very  perceptibly.  Where  it 
is  desirable  to  do  an  extra  job  on  specimen  trees,  the  sod 
may  have  four  or  more  cuts  made  into  it  in  diverging 
lines  from  the  tree,  as  far  out  as  the  limbs  extend,  and' 
then  each  section  of  sod  between  the  cuts  be  lifted  and 
rolled  up  outwards  all  around,  so  as  to  expose  the  soil 
below.  Then  remove  three  or  four  inches  of  the  soil, 
throw  in  some  fine  old  manure  at  the  bottom  of  the 
opening,  and  afterwards  fill  in  the  earth  again  and  roll 
the  sods  in  their  place,  to  firm  them  down. 

FALL    PROTECTION. 

The  best  time  to  apply  any  fall  protection  is  in  the  last 
days  before  winter  sets  in,  which  is  usually  about  the 
latter  part  of  November.  There  are  many  trees,  shrubs, 


NOVEMBER   AND    DECEMBEB.  369 

and  plants,  that  are  hardy  after  they  become  well  estab- 
lished, and  the  roots  have  had  a  chance  to  push  below 
the  frost  line,  that  should  be  protected  for  a  few  years. 
Partial  protection,  by  covering  the  surface  over  the  roots 
with  a  mulch  of  straw,  hay,  or  leaves,  will  be  all  that 
is  needed  by  many  kinds.  Such  a  covering,  four  inches 
thick,  is  enough,  and  more  might  cause  mildew.  Shrubs 
that  are  tender,  should  also  be  protected  with  straw  or 
matting  above  the  ground.  Bring  the  branches  together, 
lash  a  cord  around  them,  and  place  the  straw  about  them 
for  their  entire  length,  completing  by  winding  strong 
twine  around  the  whole  with  the  turns  at  short  distances 
apart.  If  a  tree  with  branches  too  large  to  be  brought 
together  into  one  bundle,  is  to  be  protected,  then  a  num- 
ber of  different  bundles  nrny  be  made,  afterwards  drawing 
these  together  somewhat  and  binding  them.  Eoses  and 
other  plants  that  can  be  bent  to  the  ground,  by  taking 
away  a  spadeful  of  earth  at  the  root  on  one  side,  may  be 
protected  by  completely  covering  them  with  six  inches 
of  soil. 

Many  evergreen  trees  cannot  well  be  brought  together 
to  bind  with  straw  ;  these  may  have  boughs  of  any  kind 
of  evergreens  placed  over  and  against  them  to  keep  off 
sun  and  wind,  which  more  than  anything  else  injure 
evergreens  in  winter.  A  hood,  made 
of  seven-eighth  inch  matched  stuff,  as 
shown  in  figure  138,  may  also  be  used 
for  such  purposes.  The  lower  growing 
evergreens  may  be  covered  by  strewing 
straw  over  them.  Globe-headed  ever- 
greens,  like  the  dwarf  Arbor  Vitaes,  and 
some  others,  are  at  times  liable  to  suffer  from  snow  lodging 
in  the  tops,  causing  the  branches  to  spread  out  of  shape. 
This  may  be  prevented  by  nailing  two  boards  of  a  suit- 
able length  into  the  form  of  a  letter  V,  and  then  invert- 
ing this  over  them,  lashing  a  cord  around  both,  to  bring 


370  ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 

in  the  side  branches  somewhat.  In  protecting  with  ever- 
green boughs,  thrust  the  ends  into  the  earth,  so  that 
they  will  freeze  fast  and  keep  their  positions. 

Hardy  Plants  in  the  borders  are  benefited  by  a  slight 
covering  over  the  roots  during  the  winter.  In  nature 
they  are  usually  protected  by  leaves.  Cover  the  surface 
with  a  light  coat  of  straw,  coarse  manure,  or  leaves,  and 
the  plants  will  flower  all  the  stronger  for  it.  Fall-planted 
bulbs,  like  Hyacinths,  should  receive  special  attention  in 
this  respect.  Such  rather  tender  plants  as  Pampas  Grass, 
the  tender  kinds  of  Liatris,  Erythrina,  Tritomas,  etc.,  may 
be  lifted  and  stored  for  the  winter  in  dryish  earth  in  the 
cellar,  or  any  cool  place  where  it  does  not  freeze  hard. 

Artificial  plant  aquariums  and  fountains,  that  are  in 
danger  of  being  damaged  by  the  water  in  them  freezing, 
should  have  it  emptied,  and  a  shed  of  boards  placed  over 
the  basins  to  keep  out  wet  and  snow.  Before  putting  on 
this  cover,  fill  up  beneath  with  some  straw  or  leaves,  to 
keep  the  frost  from  injuring  the  masonry. 

Heavy  snows  may  injure  shrubs  and  trees,  if  allowed 
to  remain  on  them.  Shake  out  accumulations  of  it,  that 
are  liable  to  freeze  fast  or  turn  into  ice.  If  sleet  gathers 
on  the  trees  and  there  is  danger  of  injury  to  them,  prop 
up  the  branches  in  good  time  to  obviate  this.  Young 
trees  in  places  subject  to  sweeping  winds,  should  be  se- 
cured to  stakes  in  the  winter,  to  prevent  injury  by  their 
being  whipped  and  wrenched  about. 


INDEX. 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


Alpine  Plants  

.332 

.348 
156 

Ferns,  Hardy  218 
Ferns,  Soil  for      332 

Fertilizers                                               345 

April,  Operations  in  
Aquatic  Plants  

.34!» 

.as4 

.  14 
.161 
300 
.361 
.281 
.214 

Float  for  Leveling  320 
Flower  Beds  331-3U3 
and  Borders.                      366 

Arrangement  
Associations,  Rural  Improvement 
August.  Operations  in  
"  Beautiful  Paris,"  a  model  
Beds.  Raised  Geometric  

Desi"iis  for                                   211 

Location  of  216 

Flowers,  Misuse  of.  ..     209 
Flowering  and  Ornamental  Plants.  206 
Fountains  230 

Beetle,  Sod  

324 
.243 
.244 
.216 
215 
215 

Front  Lots,  Adorning  Small  249 
Frosts  Early                                   .    364 

Boat  Houses  

Garden  Architecture  ;  335 

Gardening,  Ornamental,  American 
Progress  in                     ...      12 

Ribbon 

Scroll 

Borders  

.331 
360 

283 

Materials  of  23 
Past,  Present,  and  Future  9 
Profltsof.  16 
Requirements  of  American  10 
Time  Required  for  Effects  21 
Gardens,  Constructing  308 
Hospital  and  Asylum                   275 

Boulevards,  Garden  

Boundaries,  Planting  of  

.196 

Boundary  Wall,  Hidden  
Box  Ed"in<* 

177 
352 
.226 
.242 
.207 
213 

Bridge  of  Rocks  

Hotel          277 

Bridges  
Carpet  Beddiii" 

Public  Town                                 280 

Railroad  Station  278 
School                                            273 

Carpet  Beds.  Plants  for  

Cemeteries,  Garden. 

.301 
.275 
.  20 
205 

Grass,  Creeping  Bent  24 
Do"'s  Tail                                    24 

Church  Yards  

Cities,  Shade  Trees  in  

GruenorJnne  24 
Kentucky  Blue  24 
Perennial  Rye                               24 

as  Screens  and  Arches  
on  Arbors  
on  Fences  and  Gate-posts.  .  .  . 
on  Houses  

on  Verandas    . 

.204 
.803 
200 
.201 
.203 
.344 
169 

Red  Fescue  24 
Red  Top             ...                    24 

Rhode  Island  Bent  24 
Sweet.  Vernal  24 
Tall  Fescue                                    24 

Pruning  of  

Uses  of  

Clipped  Trees  2« 
Clover,  White  
Conservatories  
Conservatory,  Detached,  Gothic.. 
Conservatory  over  B:iy  Window.  . 
Coping,  Stone  

1-351 
24 
.245 
.245 
.271 
.238 
.215 
.311 
.311 
368 

Yellow  Oat  24 

Affroslif  alba.  var.  stolonifera  .  .  .  24 
Agrostis  vulyaru  24 
Antfmxranthum  odoratum  -4 
Avenaficivesceng  24 
Cyruxmrus  crtitatm  24 
feftuca  elatim    ..                   .24 

Curve  Rod  
Curves,  to  Lay  Out  
December,  Operation)'  in 

Fextuca  ovina,  var  rubra  24 
Loliwn  perenne  24 
Pkalaris  arundinacea  24 
Poa  praiensix                                24 

Draining  

.313 
.327 
.364 
.350 
.  18 
..339 
239 
.236 
.237 
.177 

Drives   
Dutch  Bulbs.  Planting  of  

Gravel  Walks.  Can;  of.  346 
Green-house.  Lean-to  24(5 
Grotto  Artificial                            .   .224 

Farms.  Tree  Planting  on  
February,  Operations  in  
Fence,  Tight  Board  
Fences  
Hurdle  ..   . 
Sunken      . 

Ground,  The,  and  the  Grass  23 
Grounds.  A  Corner  Lot  253 
A  Deep  Front  Lot  251 

and  Street  Level..   .              170 

(371) 


372 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


Fiiuil  Shaping....                ...   .316 
Farm  made  Park-like  203 
Five  and  one-half  Acre  Garden.  355 
Four  Acres  on  Hillside  255 
Garden  Front  to  Row  of  Hoases.259 
Laving  Out  .310 
Three-fourths  of  an  Acre  254 
Three  long  Lots  form  a  Joint 
Garden                                          200 

work,'  'Making.  '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.' 

....220 
333 
227 

Roof  Gardens  

....  209 

Roses  347 
Insects  on  355 
Rural  Improvement  Association  300 
Rustic-work.  330-345 
Seat,  Folding  240 
Garden  Shaded                            2:J,n 

Work  on                                        312 

Hanging  Bat-kelp  268 
Hardy  Plants                      .     .      351-3(15 

Stone  or  Marble  
Seedlings  
Seed  Sowing  
Autumn.  
September,  Operations  in  .  . 
Shrubs,  Comparative  size  of. 
Deciduous  
Rate  of  Growth  of  
Scatterings  of  
Use  in  Small  Places.  . 
Utility  of.  
Slopes,  Gauge  for  
Snows,  Danger  from  
Soil,  Preparing  The  

210 
307 
303 
306 
304 
.    ...     25 
.    .       .27 
21-22 
1!)5 
252 
185 
319 
370 
...315-331 
3o7 
233 
336 
218 
357 
241 
167 
159 

Hodges  '-'31 

Pruning  344 
Stiles  for                                          233 

Highways,  Planting  298 
Home  Buildings  106 
Hood  for  Protecting  Plants.    309 
Improvements,  Planning  308 
Insects  301 
Canker  Worms                             349 

January,  Operations  in  337 
July,  Operations  in  301 

Lakelet,  Improved  228 
Lawn,  Care  of  346-353 

Stiles    
Siructnres,  Foundations  for. 
Subtropical  Gardens  

Seedinc  326 

Lawns,  French  Method  with  217 
Major  and  Minor  Embellishments.  .162 
Manure  344 
Manuring,  Fall  368 
March,  Operations  in  346 

Snmmerhouse,  Rustic  
Surface.  The  
Tender  Perennials  
Terraces,  Shaping  
Town  Squares,  Small  
Towns,  Park  System  for  
Trees  and  Shrubs,  ControLii 
its  of 

319 
297 
287 
g  Hab- 
358 
223 
25 
27 
197 
186 
3'Jl 
20 
18 
.    ..  21-22 
Group- 
189 

May,  Operations  in  353 
Miscellaneous  Natural  Materials...  160 

Mature  as  a  Teacher  161 
November,  Operations  in...          ..308 
October,  Operations  in  365 

Trees,  Clipped  
Comparative  Size  of.... 
Deciduous  
Future  Size  of  
Grouping  of  
Ileeling-in    
Planting  in  Cities  
Piantinsr  on  Farms  
Rate  of  Growth  of  
Trees,  Shrubs,  and  Flowers. 

Ovals,  to  Form  311 
Park    Central                                        292 

Parks  Small  Town                            294 

Pests  339 
Plant  Houses  245 

Planting,  Manner  of.  322 
Planting,  Time  for  320 
Plants,  Aquatic  and  Bog  &34 
Plants.  Plantingont  Tender  355 
Paris,  Past,  Present,  and  Future..  2S3 
Parks,   Pnblic  279 

Trellises  
Trenching  

Turf,  Cutting,  and  Laying.  .. 
Undulating  Borders  
Walks  
and  Drives  
as  Embellishment.  .'  
Curved  and  Straight.... 
Objective  points  in  
WallofBrick  

345 
315 
...      .  3->4 
168 
3^7 
177 
181 
178 
182 

Protection,  Fall  368 
Pruning  Deciduous  Shrubs  341 
Deciduous  Trees  339 
Summer  359 
Rabbi  ts  and  Mice  339 
Rhododendrons  332 
Rill.  Improved  229 
Road-making  329 
Me  Adam  330 
Stone  in  Sand  330 
Tel  ford  3:0 

Water  Fowl  
Water  in  Gardening  

231 

227 
230 

Watering  in  Summer  
Weeds          

361 
354 
2'8 
297 

255 
....  Xft 

Rock  Archway  224 
Border  ...221 
Ri-id"e  220 
Garden....             221 

Wild  Garden  
Window  Boxes  for  Plants.  . 
Window'  Gardens  
Woodwork,  Care  of.... 

INDEX. 


373 


INDEX   OF  TEEES  AND   SHRUBS. 


Ailanthus     
Alder,  Black  
Common  Cut-leaved  
European  
Ha  w  i  horn-leaved  
Hoary  
Imperial  Cut-leaved  
Linden-leaved  
Oak-leaved.  

53 
83 
55 
54 
55 
55 
54 
55 
55 
55 

Large  American  Weeping 
Azalea,  Clammy  

....  85 
95 

95 

Hybrids  
Oriental  
Purple.. 

...     95 
....  72 
95 

Smooth  

.   ...  95 

Balsam  Fir  
Barberry,  American  .  . 

....104 
.  86 

86 

Speckled  
Almond,  Double  White.  .  .   . 

55 
64 
64 

Evergreen  

....117 
....  86 
86 

Purple-leaved  

Violet-fruited 

Flowering  
Andromeda,  Catesby's  . 
Free  Blooming  
Marsh  
Angelica  Tree  

64 
97 
97 
97 
73 
60 

Basswood  
Bayberry  
Beech 

....  46 
.   .    98 
40 

American  
Broad-leaved  

....  41 
....  41 
41 

Aralia,  Mandschurian  
Arbor  Vitue,  American  
Bulst's 

72 
107 

108 

Crested-leaved  
Cut-leaved  

...  42 
....  42 
41 

Burrow's  
Chinese.  .•  
Golden 

.   ..   .108 
110 
110 
110 
110 
108 
108 
108 
109 

Fern-leaved  
Golden  Variegated  

....  42 
....  41 
41 

Rollinsons  
Weeping  Chinese  
Dwarf  Dense  
Geo.  Peabody  
Globe-headed  

Purple-leaved  

41 

Purple.  Rivers'  
Weeping    . 

....  41 
41 

Bilstecl        .... 

53 

57 

Cherry  ... 

57 

Heath-leaved  
Hoopes'  Dwarf  
Hovey's  
Nee's  Plicate 

.   ..108 
....109 
108 
108 

Cut-leaved  Weeping  
Downy-leaved  
Elegant  Weepin"        .... 

....  57 
....  57 
57 

56 

Oriental  
Parsons'..  

110 
108 

108 

Graceful  Weeping  
Indian  Paper    ... 

....  57 
58 

Nettle-leaved 

57 

Round  headed  
Siberian  

109 
108 
109 

Paper  

57 

Purple-leaved  

....  57 

57 

Upright  
Vervoene  s  
Weeping 

108 
108 
108 

Sweet  

57 

Yellow  

....  58 
57 

You  ii"'  s  Weepiii" 

Ash,  American  White  
Aucuba-leaved. 

Bosc's. 

44 

44 

44 

Black  Alder  °..    ... 

Bhickberry,  Cut-leaved  
Double 

....   83 
.   ..  94 
91 

Cloth-like  leaved  
European  
Dwarf  Crisp-leaved 

44 
45 
45 

Bladder-nut,  American  
Asiatic  

..     81 
....  81 
..  .  81 

•..'.Si 

....  81 
117 

Dwarf  Globe-headed.. 
Golden-harked  
Hooded-leaved 

45 
45 
45 

Bladder  Senna,  Aleppo  

Common  
Oriental     .                     .  .   . 

Single-leaved  
Variegated-leaved  
Weeping  
Willow-leaved 

45 
..    .   .  45 
45 
45 

Box 

Box  Elder  

...  40 

Bramble,  Purple  

White                ... 

....  94 
94 

Flowering  
Gold-spotted-leaved  

45 
44 
44 

Buckthorn  

....  68 

Burning-bush  
Broad-leaved  

....  73 
....  73 
73 

Showy 

45 

Walnut-leaved..  . 

...  4-1 

Purple-leaved  — 

.   .  73 

374 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


Button-bush  

83 

Dentzin,  Graceful  

....  95 
96 

Buckeye..  . 

32 

Dogwood,  Alternate-leaved 
European  

.  .    66 

....  67 
....  6H 
...     67 
....  67 
....  67 
66 
(it! 

Dark  Red  

34 

Flowering  
Osier 

33 

Long-racemed  
Ohio...  
Purple 

84 
33 
34 

Red-branched  
RodSiberiiin  
Round-leaved  
Weepiii"- 

Small 

34 

Whitley's  
Yellow           

84 
33 

Elder,  American  

.  ...  71 
....  71 
71 

Cut-leaved  

85 

Calycanthus  

84 

Golden-leaved  

.'.'..'  71 
..  .  27 

70 

Variegated-leaved  
Elm  

Carolina  Allspice  

S4 

Common  
Dwarf,  American  
Golden 

45 
42 
43 
43 

American,  White  
Ash-coiored  
Belgian  

27 
...29 
...  28 
29 

Hardy 

43 
43 

29 

Kaempferi  

Cedar,  California  White... 
Deodar 

...  28 

107 
107 

D.-nnpier's  Pyramidal  

...  29 

29 

Indian  

107 

107 

En"lish 

27 

27 

Mount  Atlas 

107 

27 

107 

Cork-barked  
Curled-leaved  

...  27 

...  28 
28 

Whi'te 

.  106 

Dwarf 

106 

Variegated  
Cercidiphyllum  

106 
50 
63 

Nettle-leaved  
Plume-like  

....  28 
28 

Double-flowering  
European  Bird  
Weeping;  
Cinquefoil,  Shrubby  
Cloth  ra  
Acuminate-leaved.   .  . 
Cletlira,  Alder-leaved  

63 
63 
63 
98 

.'.'."..'"  85 
85 

Serrate-leaved  

....  28 

Twiggy  
Variegated-leaved  

...  28 

Webb's  Curled-leaved.... 
Weeping  Cork-barked  
Weeping,  Small-leaved... 
Monumental  
Red 

...27 
.   .  27 
..  27 
....  28 
...  29 
29 

Corchorus  

97 
67 

Variegated  

67 

Scotch  
Crisp-leaved  Weeping.  .  .  . 
Huntingdon's.  .  .    ....    .... 
Rough-leaved  Weeping.. 
White  Margined  

...  28 
...  29 
...  29 
..  29 
.   .  29 
29 

Cotoneaster,  Box-leaved.. 

88 

.  88 

Frigid  

LJose-flowered  
Money-wort-leaved  
Round-leaved  

88 
.  88 

88 

weefe:::::  ::.::::  ::: 

Weepin<* 

...  29 
27 

Crab,  Chinese  Double,  Ros 

^-flower- 
60 

Weeping  Camperdown  
Wych  

...  28 

.  ..    28 
89 

Garland,  Flowering... 
Riven?'  Semi-double.. 
Currant,  Crimson-flowered 
Gordon's 

60 
61 
87 

87 

Fir,  Hudson's  Bay  Dwarf  
Pinsapo  
Flowering  Apple  
Forsythia,  Fortune's.  

...105 
....105 
...  60 
...  84 

84 

Missouri  
Yellow-flowered  
Cypress,  Lawson's  
Pyramidal  
Silver-leaved  

87 
87 
106 
106 
.106 

Weepin"  

.     84 
....  85 
66 

French  Mulberry  

Upright 

106 

106 

Garland  Flower 

98 

Weepimr..'.'. 
Nootka  'Sound  

106 
106 
52 

Golden  Bell  
Golden  Chain                      .  .     . 

...  84 
...  64 
...48 
..  49 

Chinese  Weeping  

52 

B'road-ieaved  

Weeping  

Variegated-leaved  
Hackberry..  

...  49 
.   .  60 

Deutzia,  Crenate-leavcd.  .  . 

96 

INDEX. 


375 


Hazelnut,  American  
Constantinople  
Cut-leaved..  

...  84 
...85 
...  84 

Reeves'  
Robust  Irish  

S:ivill  

Cvpro  s-leaved  
Tamarisk-leaved  
Vnrtayaied-leaved  

Scaled  
Swedish  
Kentucky  Coflee  Tree  

....112 
.111 

...111 
...111 
...111 
..   Ill 
...112 
..111 
...  53 
65 

Purple-  leaved  
Hemlock  Spruce  
Dwarf  
Dense  
Sargent's  Weeping  
Small-leaved  
Hercules'  Club  
Hickories  
Hickory.  Common  
Shell  Bark  
High  Bush  Cranberry  
Hobble  Bush  
Holly,  American  
Honey  Locust  
Ciispian  
Chinese  

...  84 
.   .104 
...104 
...104 
...104 
.   .104 
73 

...   36 
...  36 
.   .  36 
..  76 
.     77 
...113 
...  59 
...  59 
.      59 
..  59 
..  59 
...  77 
...78 

Laburnum.  Alpine  
Alschinger's  
Common  

...  65 
...  64 
...  64 
..     65 
...  65 
...•64 
.   .  65 
..     65 
...44 

Large-leared  
Oak-leaved  
Park's  

Purple-flowered  
Scotch  
Larch,  American  

Thornless  
Weeping  
Honeysuckles,  Bush  
English  Fly  

European  

..  43 
43 

Weeping  

...  43 

Japan  
Laurel,  Broad-leaved  
Narrow-leaved  
Lead  plant  
Leather-leaf    
Lilac,  Chinese  
Common  
Emod's  
French  Red  
Golden-leaved  
Josika's. 

...  44 

..114 
...114 
...  83 
...  97 
...  70 
...69 
...70 
70 
...  69 
70 

Fragrant  

.  .     77 
77 

Mountain  
Standish's  
Tartarian  
Hop-Hornbeam  
Hop-Tree  
Hornbeam,  American  
English.  .  .  . 

...  78 
.   .  78 
...77 
...  65 
...  72 
...  65 
..     65 

Hop      
Horse-chestnut  
Chinese  

...  65 
...  32 
...  33 
...  32 
...32 
..  32 
...  32 
32 

Persian  
Rouen.     
Verschaffelt's 

..  69 
...70 
..    70 
.    46 
46 

Cut-leaved  
European  
Double  Red  
Double  White  
Van  Hontte's  Dwarf.. 

Lime  

Linden,  American.... 

Broad-leaved 

46 

..  46 
...  46 
..     48 
...47 
...46 
...  47 
...47 
...  46 
...47 
...  46 
...  4rt 
...  46 
...47 
.   .  47 
...  53 
...  58 
...  58 
59 

Memminger's  
Red-flowering  
Golden  
Dwarf  

..  32 
..     32 
..  32 
...32 

Broad-leaved.     . 
Fernleaved  
Golden  Broad  leaved  
Grape-leaved  
Hairy  styleJ  
Pyramidal  
R-d  Cut  leaved  
Rerl-i  wigged..  . 
Small-leaved  
Whiic  leaved  . 
White-leaved  Weeping...  . 
Yellow-twigged  
Japan  
Liquidambar  
Locn-t,  Besson's  
Black  

Hydrangea.  Changeable  

.  86 
...  86 
...  86 
...43 
...  96 
83 

Large-flowered  
Panicled 

Indian  Bean  

Indian  Currant  

Inkberry  
Ironwood.          
Japan  Globe  Flower  

.  ..  83 
...  65 
...  97 
.     65 
...  66 
.   .  62 
...111 
..  110 
...112 
...110 
..112 
..112 
.     Ill 

Oriental  
June-berry  
Juniper,  American  Pyramidal.  .  . 
Canadian  Trailing  
Chinese  

Globe  

...  5S 
58 

Golden  

59 

Daurian          ,   

Moss    .. 

..  59 

...  58 
58 

Globular                   

Parasol  
Pyramidal- 

Irish 

..112 
...112 
...112 

...  59 
...  68 
36 

Lee's  

Yellow  
Madeira  Nut  

Polish... 

...111 

Magnolia.... 

...  49 

37G 


ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


Magnolin,  Chinese  White  
Cucumber  
Ear-leaved  
Great  Laurel  

50 
49 
50 
50 

Mountain  Ash,  Hybrid  
Oak-leaved  
Weeping  
Mulberry.  Black      . 

....   01 
.     til 
...   (il 
5-> 

Great-leaved  
Hall's  Japan  
Heart-shaped 

50 
51 
50 

Downing'  s  Ever-bearing... 
Japan  

....   55 
....   56 
56 

Lenne's  

52 

Red  .. 

55 

Norbert's  
Purple  
Showy-flowering  
Slender-growing  
Soulange'8  

51 
50 
52 
....  51 
52 
50 

White  
Nettle  Tree,  American  
European  
Nut-bearing  Trees  
Oak.  Burr.  

.   ..  55 
60 
....  50 
....  36 
30 
30 

Long-leaved  
Thompson's  

Umbrella 

50 
52 
50 

Cut-leaved....  
English  Royal  

....  30 
...  30 
31 

Very  Dark  Purple  

..   ..  51 

Curled  Pyramidal 

31 

Mahonia.         ..                 .  . 

..     117 

Cut  leaved 

31 

Maiden  Hair  Tree 

45 

Dark  leaved 

31 

Maple  
Ash-leaved  
Curled  
Variegated  
Black  Sugar  
Cork-barked  
Curled-loaf  

....  37 
40 
40 
..   ..  40 
37 
..    ..  40 
.    ...  38 

Golden-leaved  
Large-leaved  

Louett's  
Purple-leaved.  ..   
Pyramidal  
Silver-leaved  
Weeping  

...    31 
....  31 
....  30 
....  31 
....  31 
.    ..  31 
31 

38 

31 

37 

31 

Eagles  Claw  
English  

'.'.'.'.'.  40 

Mossy  cup  
Pin  
Red 

....  30 
...     30 
30 

Golden-leaved  

38 

Scarlet.   

....  30 

Japanese.  

39 
.   .    40 

Shingle  

....  30 
30 

Lorberg's.  
Norway  
Cut-leaved..             

38 
....     37 
88 

Swamp,  White  
Turkey  
White  

....  30 
....  31 
30 

40 

Willow. 

30 

Red  
Red  Colchicnm  
Schwerdler's  
Silver-leaved  

37 
39 

'.'..  38 

Oleaster,  European  
Garden  
Silver-leaved  
Osage  Onmife  

'."!  82 

...   82 
61 

Crisp-leaved  
New  Cut  -leaved 

38 
..    38 

Paper  Mulberry  
Panlownia     .. 

....  5f> 
.  56 

Warner's  Cut-leaved 

33 

Peach    Bloorl-leavml 

64 

Striped  
Sugar  

40 
37 

37 

Flowering  
Pea-tree,  Arborescent  

....  64 
....  71 
.  80 

39 

Siberian  

70 

Tartarian..  . 
Velvety 

40 
39 

Pepperidge  

....  54 
!>9 

Medlar        

.   ..62 

European  .  .    

60 

Mespilus  
Mezereum  

62 

98 

Japan  
Pine.  Antrim  

fit) 
....  99 

Mist-Tree 

68 

100 

Mock  Orange        

75 

Black  

99 

Dwarf  

75 
75 

California  Mountain  
Cluster 

....101 
..  100 

75 

ii'.i 

Golden-leaved  
Gordon's  Late  
Large-flowering  

....     75 
76 
76 
76 

Dwarf,  or  Mountain  
Heavy-wooded  
Highland  
Jeffrey's  

..  .100 

::::» 

....101 

Mountain  Ash  
American.  
Eldfr-leaved 

60 
...   .   61 
61 

Lofty  Bhot...n  
Mugho  

....101 
....100 
110 

EuroDcan  .... 

...  61 

Pitch.... 

....101 

INDEX. 


377 


SabineV 

101 

Yellow  or  Austrian 

..  92 

Scotch 

100 

<>r  Sharon 

74 

Short-leaved,  Yellow  
S.viss  Stone 

..100 
..102 

St.  Johns-wort  
Kalm's 

89 
89 

Table  Mountain 

100 

Shrubby 

89 

Tauriun  
Weyinouth  

White 

..100 
..101 
101 

Sassafras  
Service-berry  
Shad-flower 

61 
62 
62 

Compact  White  

.  101 

Shrubby  Althaea  

74 

Silver-while  

..101 
37 

Shrubby  Trefoil.  
Silver-bell  Tree 

72 
71 

Oriental  

.   37 
63 

Silver  Fir  Ccphulonian  
Cilician 

105 
105 

63 

Great 

105 

34 

105 

Abe'le  .'.'  ' 
Athenian  Weeping  

.     35 
.  35 

Noble  
Nordiuimn's  

105 
105 

Balsam  

.  35 

Siberian  

105 

35 

Smoke-tree  

68 

"  Eugenie" 

35 

Snowball 

.  76 

Cotton  wood  

..  35 

Japan  

76 

Gray 

35 

96 

35 

62 

Necklace  
Parasol  do  St  Jiilieu 

.  35 
35 

Sophora,  Japan  

54 
54 

Silver  
Weepiii"  

.  35 

.  35 

Sour  Gum  
Spice  Bush  

54 
72 

White 

35 

Spindle  Tree        

73 

Spireea 

89 

82 

Billard's 

90 

82 

Douglas's           

...  90 

go 

90 

Oval-leaved  
Weepiii" 

.  82 

82 

Golden-leaved  

90 
91 

White-berried  

.  82 

Plum-leaved  

«.»0 

Purple  Fringe 

68 

90 

87 

90 

Red-bud...     

.  65 

Spruce,  Black    

103 

Red  Cedar 

111 

Colorado  Blue             .   . 

103 

Bedford's 

112 

.     104 

Light  Green  

.112 

Doumets'  

103 

Silvery-leaved  
Variegated    alba 

.111 
112 

Dwarf  White  

103 
.  .103 

112 

Hemlock 

104 

111 

104 

Reti  nisponC  obtuse-leaved  

.109 
109 

Menzies'  

103 
102 

Golden      

.109 

Barry's  

102 

Heath-like 

109 

103 

Thready-branched  
Plume-like  

.109 
.109 

Conical  
Ellwan<*er'8  Dwarf  

103 
103 

Silver-tipped  
Gold-tipped 

.108 
109 

Finedon  Hall  

102 
.   103 

109 

103 

Rhododendron,  American  
Hybrids 

.116 
116 

Maxwell's  
Piorov  Dwarf    

103 
103 

Pontic 

116 

Pyramidal 

102 

93 

103 

i)3 

....104 

China 

93 

.104 

Climbin"- 

.  92 

Smith's  

104 

Hybrid  Noisette 

93 

White           ....I  

108 

92 

.  97 

Tea 

93 

73 

9-2 

Stnartia                

::::::.  ™ 

Moss..   . 

..  92 

Styrax,  Japan  

89 

Prairie  , 

93 

Sumach,  Cut-leaved  

...  69 

378 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


Sumach,  Fragrant  
Osbeck's  Chinese  

68 
...  68 
69 
68 
53 
85 
84 
47 

Wild  Olive  
Willow,  American  Weeping.. 
Babylonian  
Fountain  
Goat  

82 
48 
47 
48 
47 
48 

Venetian  
Sweet  Gum  
Sweet  Pepper  Bush    
Sweet-scented  Shrub  
Syrin«a  

Weeping  
Golden  ...     
Japan  Weeping  
Kilmarnock  Weeping.... 

47 
47 
48 
..   ..47 

44 

Tamarisk                       

72 
67 
.    ...  67 
113 
...113 

Thorn,  Common  Hawthorn. 
Evergreen  

Torreya.  California!!  
Florida 

Laurel-leaved  
Palm-leaved  
Ring-leaved 

48 
48 
.  ...     48 
48 
48 
47 
48 
48 
48 

Rosemary-leaved  
Royal  
Salmon's  Weeping  
Shiny-leaved  
Silky  Weeping  

113 

Umbrella  Pine  
Viburnum,  Lantana-leaved.  . 
Nepal  

113 
77 
77 

77 

Rough-leaved  
Virgilia  .  
Walnut,  Black  

77 
54 
36 
36 

Wolsey's  Weeping  ....... 
Winterberry,  Common  
Smooth  leaved  
Witch  Hazel  

84 
83 
83 
68 
.   ...  77 
63 

Cut-leaved  

36 
36 

Withe-rod  
Yellow-wood      

Wax-berry  
WaxMyrtle  
Way-faring  Tree  

96 
98 
77 
80 

Yew,  American  
Beautiful  

114 
114 
114 

English 

114 
....114 
114 

Variegated-leaved  
White-flowered 

80 
80 
85 
106 
107 
68 

GoTden  
Irish  

White  Alder  
White  Cedar  
"White  Cedar"  
Wig-Tree 

144 

Weeping  

.   ...110 
15 

fiilaii  

ERBACEOUS   PLANTS. 
Blecdinnr  Heart  

127 

INDEX   OF   H. 

Acanthus  

iRDY  H 

134 

138 

....135 
140 

142 

Acorns  
Adam's  Needle  

134 
137 
127 

Boltonia  
Bowman's  Root  

Brodseia  
Brunella 

....  140 
140 

135 

Aletris  
Alfredia  Nodding  
Allium,  Golden  
Alstrsemeria  
Amiant  liium  

138 
125 
138 
138 
138 
139 

Bugle,  Blue-flowered  
Red-leaved  . 

138 
135 

Bupthalmum  
Buttercup  
Butterfly  Tulip  
Weed  
Callirrhoe  

135 
144 
140 
139 
....   140 
126 

Anemone  

.125,  139 

Anthericnm  

.125 
135 

Campanula  

Canada  Tick-Trefoi  1  
Candytuft.  Perennial  
Cardinal  Flower  
Catch  -fly      .          

.   ...128 
..       128 
143 
131,  133 
144 

135 

Asphodel  
Aster  

139 
139 
125 

Catnip   Mussin's 

Avon*.  Scarlet  

142 

Centaurea  

140 
140 
144 

Biineberry  
Baptisia  
Bee-Balm   
Bell-Flower  

138 
139 
144 
126 

Chelone..  

Clary,  Silver  , 
Clematis,  Erect  

...   .137 
140 

Bell  wort  
Berlandiera      

145 
140 

Clintonia  
Colchicum    

...   .140 
12<i 

Bitter  Vetch  
Blazing  Star.  ' 

131 
129 

Colic  Root  
Columbine  

...   .138 
.....125 

INDEX. 


379 


Compass  i  Plant".  

....  137 

Lotus 

143 

Cone-Flower  

141 

Lungwort  

..132,  143 

140 

143 

Coronilla  

141 

Lvchnis                   .  . 

131 

Co-tinary  

145 
141 

Mallow,  Moren's  

143 

138 

Cianesbill  

142 

Meadow  Ru"   .'?   

145 

Crocus  
Crowfoot  
Crown  Imperial  

126 
144 
127 

Meadow  Saffron  
Meadow-Sweet  
Milfoil  

126 
133 
138 

Cupidoue      

140 

Milkweed 

139 

Cup  Plant 

137 

144 

Daffodil  
Daisy                           

131 
125 

Mint.  Variegated  

136 
144 

Damn's  Violet 

.   128 

143 

Day  Li  ly 

128  136 

Monkey  Flower 

144 

...     .  128 

.     134  138 

Do"-'s  Tooth  Violet 

127 

Moss  Pink 

182 

Doronicnm  

141 
...  144 

Mountain  Everlasting  

139 
144 

Drop  wort...-  

133 

Nierembergia  

144 

Erin-o          

...lai 

Pachysandra  

144 

.  142 

Pseony 

131 

144 

Pansy 

134 

False  Indigo  

139 
.132 

Pasque  Flower,  American.. 
Pea  Perennial 

139 
129 

Fla<* 

.129 

132 

Flame-Flower  

133 
143 

Pentstemon,  Scarlet  

144 
.134 

Fleabane.  Rose  

142 

Plilox,  Perennial  

132 

FleurdeLis  

129 

Pink.     . 

127 

Flower  of  Jove  
Forget-Me-Not  

131 
131 

Pink  Root  
Plantain  Lily  

133 
....127,136 

Fraxinolla 

.127 

144 

Fiinkia  

127 

Poppy,  Perennial  

132 

142 

132 

142 

132 

142 

133 

Qilleiiia        

142 

Pyrethrum  

132 

Globe  Thistle 

135 

.  133 

.141 

Ka<r"cd  Robin 

131 

Golden  Rod     

145 

Ranunculus  

144 

Grass,  Ribbon  

184 
.  135 

Red-hot  Poker  Plant  
Reed 

183 
135 

Greek  Valerian  

132 

Rhubarb  

136 

Groundsel  •--. 

144 
.142 

Rocket  Flower  

128 
143 

Harebell 

126 

132 

143 

"Varie<'»ted  

137 

134 

St  Bernard's  Lily 

144 

Hedge  Nettle  
Hollyhock    

145 
126 

St.  Bruno's  Lily  
Satin  Flower  

125 
145 

Hoi-semi  nt                   

144 

Sea  Pink    

.145 

Hyacinths 

.128 

144 

143 

140 

129 
.132 

Sisyriuchium  
Skullcap 

145 
144 

Jonquil 

129 

145 

Knotweed  

144 
126 

Snake's  Head  
Sneezewort,  Double 

140 
138 

137 

128 

Liatris                

129 

Snowflake  

...  130 

Lilies                      

ISO 

Speedwell      

134 

Lily  of  the  Valley  
Lobelia       

126 

143 

Spi<;elia  
Spiraeas,  Herbaceous  

183 
133 

141 

Spurge  

....148 

380 


ORNAMENTAL   GARDENING. 


Stuchys  

145 
145 

Uvularla  
Valerian  .  . 

M5 
145 
140 
145 
134 
134 

StarGrass  ".     
Star  of  Bethlehem  
Stokesia.  Blue  
Stork'sBill  

138 
131 
133 
142 
142 
136 

Red  
Verbena,  Hardy  
Veronica..  
Violet.  

Virginia  Cowslip  
White  Cup  

143 
....144 
.136 

Graceful 

Sweet  William 

127 

Thalictrnm  
Thrift                           .  . 

145 
145 

Winter  Aconite  

142 

Wood  Hyacinth 

133 
.125 

Thyme    Variegated 

137 

Trefoil,  Bird's-foot  ... 

143 

135 

Triteleia 

..  145 

..   ..138 

133 

Yucca 

...137 

Tulips  133 

INDEX  OF 

Actinidiapolygama..  122 
Akebia  quinata                                 1*2 

CLIMBEKS. 

....190 

...  123 

"  American  Ivy  "  
Ampelopsis  
Clematis  
Climbin<*  Bittersweet 

118 
118 
121 
122 

Jessamine,  White  

...   .123 

Moonseed,  Canadian  

123 
118 
.   ...122 
122 
118 
.   ...119 

StarfTree  
Trumpet  Vine  
Virginia  Creeper.  
Wistaria 

Cocculus  Carolina  
Dutchman's  Pipe  

123 
122 
123 

Grecian  Silk  
INDEX  OF 

Acantholimon  
Alyssnm  
Arabia 

123 
ALPINE 

146 
146 
146 

Woodbine,  Common  
AND  ROCK   PLANTS. 

Milfoil,  Woolly  
Mitchella 

....  120 

146 
.   ..147 
146 

Mouse-ear  Chickweed 

146 

Opuntia  
Partridge  Berry  .  
Phlox  
Pine-barren  Beauty  
Prickly  Pear  
Pyxidanthera 

.   .   .147 
147 
...    .147 
148 
147 
148 

Aubrietia  

146 

147 

Bluets  

147 

Bnlbocodinm  
Camassia  

146 
146 
149 

Ouamash  
Rock  Cress  
Sandwort 

146 
146 
146 

Catchfly,  German  
Cerastium  
Claytonia 

147 
146 
147 

Saxifrage 

148 

Clematis,  Herbaceous  
Columbine,  Wild  
Epimedium  
Erinus,  Alpine  

147 
146 
147 
147 

Sednm  

149 
149 

148 

Speedwell,  Alpine  
Spring  Beauty  

149 
147 
149 

Gentian,  Stemless  
Geum,  Mountain  
Golden  Tuft 

147 
147 

146 

149 

Ground  Ivy  

147 

Thrift,  Common  
Prickly           .   . 

146 
146 

Harebell  
Houseleek  

146 
149 
147 

147 

Tunica,  Rock  
Waldsteinia  
Wallflower.  Alpine  
Wood  Sorrel 

149 
149 
147 
146 

Kidney  Vetch  
Live-for-ever.  

146 
149 
147 

Meadow  Saffron,  Spring.  .  . 

146 

INDEX. 


381 


INDEX   OF  AQUATIC  AND  BOG   PLANTS. 


Arrow  Head  
Calopogon  
Caltua  
Caly  pro.  Northern  
Cardinal  Flower  
Cat-Tail 

...155 
.  .  .  .  153 
....153 
.  .  .  153 
....l-]4 

Grass  of  Parnassus  
Green  Dragon  

154 
153 
154 
153 
154 
153 
154 

Habeiiaria  
Ladies'  Slipper  
Marsh  Calla  
Marsh  Marigold  

Centaury  
Cypripedium  

...154 
....153 
....  154 

..  ..154 
....151 
155 
154 

Pickerel  Weed  
Pitcher  Plant  
Pitcher  Plant,  California.  .  . 
Pogonia  
Pontederia  
Trollius 

155 
155 
154 
154 
155 
155 
155 
154 

Fringed  Orchis  

Sabhatia 

Sarraceoia  
Sundew  
Sweet  Flag  

....1.55 
....154 
...153 

Typha  
Water  Lily. 

WaterShield  

....153 

INDEX  OF  FERNS 
Adam  and  Eve  

AND 

....150 

...  150 
150 

SHADE-LOVING   PLANTS. 

Liverleaf  152 
May  Apple                      ....              IRS 

Anemone  

152 
152 
153 

Asarum  
Bloodroot  
Bunch-berry  
Christmas  Rose  
Club  Moss  . 
Cornus,  Dwarf  
Cowslip,  American  
Cypripedium  
Dodecatheon  
False  Solomon's  Seal  
Ferns  
Fritillaria  

....  150 
....15i 
....150 
...   152 
..    152 
.  .  .  150 
...  150 
....150 
....150 
....152 
....151 
.    ..152 

Orchis,  Showy  

Polygala,  Fringed  
Ramnndia  
Rattlesnake  Plantain 

152 
152 
152 

Rbexia  

152 
152 
150 

Selaginella  
Shooting  Star 

Smilacina  
Snakeroot,  Canada  
Snakeroot,  Virginian    
Solomon's  Seal,  False  
Trailing  Arbutus  
Trillium  
Violet. 

152 
150 

150 
152 
150 
.  .  152-153 
153 
.  .  152-153 
,...153 

Hellebores  
Helonias,  Spiked  
Hepatica  
Jack  in  the  Pulpit  
Lady's  Slipper  

....152 
....152 
....  152 
.   ..150 
....150 

Wake  Robin  
Wood  Lily.... 

INDEX  OF  THE  BOTANICAL  OR   SCIENTIFIC  NAMES 
OF   THE  TREES,   SHRUBS  AND   PLANTS. 


INDEX  OF  THE  BOTANICAL  NAMES  OF  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


103 

amabilie  
baluamea  

...   105 
104 
104 

var.  foliis  anreis  32 
var.  nana  33 

var.  dun  s.i  

104 

Oolcbicum  rubrum  38 

vnr.  microphylla  
var.  nana  
var.  Sargentii  
Ceplialonica  
Cilicica  
Douglasii  
excelfti  
var.  Barryii  

....104 
....104 
....104 
...  105 
....105 
104 
....102 
....102 
.102 

dasycarpum  38 
var.  cri  spurn  novum  38 
vnr.    huteroplivllum    lacinia- 
tum  .'  38 
var.  Wagneri  38 
macrophyflum  40 
palmatuiu  40 
Pennsylvaiiicum  40 

var.  inverta.  
var.  Finedonensis  
var.  Gregoriana  
var.  Maxwelliaua  
var.  pyramidalis  
Fraseri,  var.  Hudsonica... 
erandis  

,...1U2 
...  102 
....  103 
....  104 
..   .102 
.    ..105 
....1)5 
....  10.J 

var.  cucullatum.         .  38 
var.  dissectum  38 
var.  luciniaium  38 
var.  Lorbergii  38 
var.  Schwerdlerii  as 
polymorphum  39 
Psendo-Platanus  38 

nigra  

....  l.,3 
....  1  J3 

var.  Douglaei  38 
var.  purpurea  39 

...105 

var.  vclutiimm.     .  .                .39 

.105 

104 

orientalis 

...104 

pectinata  
var.  compacia  
var.  pendula!  
Pichta  
polita  
Pinsapo  

...   1J5 
...  10.j 
...1115 
...   105 
104 
....105 
101 

eaccharinum  37 
vnr.  nigrum  37 
Tartaricum  40 
Ailanthus  L'laudulosus  '.  53 
Alnus  glatinosa  54 
var.  laciniata  imperialis  54 

Acacia  Nemu  
^Esculus...  
carnea  superba  
Chinensis  
flava  
glabra.  

....  59 
....  :« 
....  34 
....  3J 

....  :;:i 
....  33 
",->. 

var.  rubro-nervis  55 
incana  55 
var.  laciniata  55 
tiliacea  55 
Amelancliicr  Canadensis  62 
var.  Botryapium  62 
vul-'ari-"                                        62 

var.  ttore  ploiio  
var.  rubra  fl.  pi  
var.  laciniata  
var.  nana  Van  Houttei.  . 
Memmingeri  

...  32 
....  32 
....  3i 
.  .     32 
...     3-> 
34 

Amorpha  (  anescens  83 
I'rut  icosa  83 
var.  angusti'olia  83 
Andromeda  floribunda  97 
Mariana  97 
poli  folia                                         ')7 

Pavia 

33 

var.  atrosanguiuea  
var.  carnea  pubescens..  . 

33 
...  33 
34 

var.elata  72 
spinosa  73 

var.  Whitleyi  ... 

....  34 

calendulacea  95 

(382) 


INDEX. 


383 


Azalea  mollis  

.  .  95      Colutea  arborescens  
.  95    |          cruenta  ... 
.     95    '          Halepica  
..117       Cornus  alternifulla  
t-6             circinata 

...  81 
...81 
...81 
...  t!6 
66 

viscosa  
Berberis  Aquif  olium  

vuigai-is  var.  purpureti  
var.  fructu  violacea  
Bctulaalba  

..  86    1          florida  
..  86    j          Mas  
.  .  56    i        .     var.  varlegata  

...  btt 
..     67 
...67 
67 

var.  foliis  purpureis  
vii  r.  pondula  tlegans  

..  57 
..  57 
57 

Sibirica  var.  variegate  
Corylus  Americana  
Avellana,  var.  purpurea  
var.  laciniata  
Colurna  
Cotoneaster  affluis  
buxifolia  
Msfida  
laxiflora 

..    «7 
.    84 
..    84 
..    84 
..     85 
..     88 
..     88 
..     88 
88 

var.  pendula  Youngii  
var.  popuhfolia  
var.  pubescens  
var.  trisiis  

..  57 
.     57 
.     57 
..  57 

var.  urtici/olia  
Bhojpaltra 

..  57 
..  58 
..  58 
..  58 
57 

costiita  
lutea..   . 
lentil 

microphylla  
nummnlaria  

...  88 
88 

..  57 
..  58 
..107 
..  56 

...67 
..67 
106 

pumila  
Biota 

Pyiacantha  

Brou^sonetia  papyrifera  

var.  argf  ntea  

..  106 
...106 
106 

Buxus  BI  mpervirens  
C'eplialanthus  occidentals  
Callicarpa  Americana  
purpurca  
Calycanthus  elougatus  

.  117 
..  83 

..  85 
..  85 
.    84 
84 

var.  erecta  

var.  pyramidalis  
var.  variegata  
thyoide;<  

..10(i 
..   106 
..   100 

var.  nana  

...106 

100 

glaucus  .*.  .   . 
Eevigatus  
macrocarpus  
Cafagana  Altagana  

::3 

..  84 
..  84 
..  70 
71 

Cryptomeria  Japonica  
Cytisus  purpureus  
Dapbne  Cneorum  

...107 
...  64 
...  98 
...  98 
...  96 

Chamlagu      

.    70 
.  65 
..  65 

Deutzia  crenata  

*Betulus  

var.  fl.  nib.  pi  
var    purp.pl  

...  96 
...  !Mi 
06 

var.  pendula  .  . 
Oarya  al  ba  

..  65 
..  36 

Cassandra  calyculata  
Castanea  vesca  
var.  Americana  
Jnponica  
pumila  

..  97 
..  34 
.     34 
..  34 
..  34 
.     43 
..  43 
..  43 
.     43 
..  43 
..  43 
.     43 
85 

vrnhrii  
Dicrvilla  arborea-grandiflora.  .  .  . 
candidn. 

...  96 
...80 
80 

hortensis  nivca  

Dimorphantnus  Mandshiiricns.  . 
Diogpyros  Kakl  
Lotus  
Virginiana  
Elcugnus  argentea  
liurtcnsis  
Eaonymns  alatus  
Americanus  
ntroparpnreus  
Europscus  
var.  at  ri  ipurpnruus  
latifolius  
Exochorda  graudiflora  
Fagus  fori-uginca  
sylvaiica  
var.  aurea  variegata  
var.  cristata  
var.  cuprea  
var.  laciniata  
var.  macrophylla  
var.  pendnla  

..    80 
...  80 
...72 
...  60 
...60 
.  .  .  59 
...  82 
...82 
...  73 
...73 
..     73 
..     73 
...  73 
...  73 
...  89 
...41 
...41 
...41 
...  4,2 
...41 
...42 
...  41 
...41 

speciosa  

var.  aurea  

Cephalotaxus  drnpracea  
Cedrns  Allan  tica  
Doodara  
Libani  
Celtis  nustralis 

.  115 
..107 
..107 
.  107 
..  60 
..  00 
..  60 
..  65 
.     66 
.     66 
..  66 
..  53 
..  85 
..  85 

occidentalis  
Ccrcidiphylliira  Japonicum  
Cercis  Canadcnsis  
Japonica  
Chiuensis  
Chionanthus  Virginica  
C'ladrastis  tinctona  

Clethra  acumlnata  
aluifolia.... 

var.  aspleniifolia...  . 

.  49 

384 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


Fainis  sylvatica  
var.  parpurea  
var.  purpnrea  major  
var.  purpurea  Rivers:!  

..  41 
..  41 
..  41 
..  41 

.  84 

84 

Juniperns8abina  
var.  alpina  
var.  ciipruHsil'ulia.  ..,  
vars.  tamariscifolia  
var.  variegata  

11* 
....111 
Ill 
Ill 
..  ..Ill 

viridissima  

..  &4 

•\Tirgiiiiana  
var.  Bedfordiana  
var.  glauca  
var.  pendula  
var.   Schoitii  
var.  variegata  alba  
var.  variegata  aurea  
Jnglans  cinerea  

Ill 
....ill 
..   .111 
112 
....  112 
...112 
....   112 
36 
36 
....     36 
36 
36 
118 
113 
97 
Ii5 
64 
64 
64 

Fraxinus  Americana  

..  44 
..  44 
..  44 
.  .  44 
..  44 
..  44 

var.  Boscii      
var.  JagiandllbliB  
var.  nairaon  

var.  rulii  

..  44 
45 

.  .  45 
..  45 
..  45 
..  45 

regia  
var.  laciniata  
var.  praeparturieiiB  
Kalmia  angiiBtilblia  
latifolia  

var.  atrovirens  
var.  aurea  
var.  aurea-pendula  

var.  ciiciillata  
var.  globo^a  
var.  pemlula  
var.  ealicilolia  
var.  concavsefolia  variegaia. 

..  45 
..  45 
..  45 
..  45 
..  45 
45 

Keel  re  n  ten  a  paniciilata  
Laburnum  alpionm  
Alscliingeri....  

var.   scolopendrifolia  
Ginkgo  udianiifolia   
Glyptostrobns  pendulum  
GyinnocladiiB  Canadensis  
GlediiecliiaCaspica  
Sinensis 

..  45 
.     45 
.  58 
.  52 
.     53 
59 

var.  niacrophylla  
var.  Parkii  
var.  quercifolia  
Larix  Americana  

64 
64 
...     64 
44 
48 

43 
43 
....     44 
..   ..  97 
107 
82 
82 

triacantlios  
var   Bujotii  

..  59 
..  59 
..  59 
..  79 
..  71 
..  68 
74 

var.  pendula  
Icptnlepis...;  
Leiicotlio*  Categbaei  
Libocedrns  decurrens  
Ligustrnm  laiirifolinm  

var.  inermis  

tetraptera  

lljiinain?e            K 

82 
.    ...  82 

...     82 

'.".  72 
53 
36 
..    ..78 

...   .   77 
77 

HTdr»iM.'«a  arborescens  
Horiensia  
luutlculata  grandiflora  
qnercifolia  
mdiata  

..  87 
..  86 
..  86 
..  87 
..  87 
..  89 
.  89 
83 

var.  buxifolia    
var.  leucocarpa  
var.  pendnla  
Lindcra  Benzoin  
Liquidainbar  styracifliia  
Liriodendron  Tulipifera  
Lonicera  caerulea  

Hypericnin  Kalmianum  
proliflciun  

,~  ^.       

'.'ll3 
..  83 
..112 
.110 
110 
..110 
..110 
..111 
.  Ill 
..111 
..111 
.110 
..111 
..112 
..112 
112 

Ledebourii  

opaca  
vrrticillala  
JunipeniB  Barbadensis  
CanadenBis  
ConiimiiiiB  
var.  alpina  
var.  alpina  pyramidalie  
var.  Uracovica  
var.  Hibernica  
var.  Hibernica  robnsta  
vnr.  nana  
var.  Suecica  

Siandisaii  
Tartar!  ca  

...  78 
77 
78 

Macluini  anrantiaca  
Magnolia  acnminata  

61 
49 
50 

cordiita  

::-:s 

...    .  50 
....  50 
....  50 
5-i 
51 
..    ..  52 
50 
51 

Fraseri  
glanca  
var.  longifolia  . 

grandiflora  
liypoleiica  
Leniu-i  
macrophylla  
Norboriiana  

var.  Japonica  
var.  Lccana  

Danrica  
liemisphaerica  
Occidental!*,  var.  venusta.  .  . 
pr-istrala  
Sabiiia.... 

...112 
.   112 
..112 
..113 
..112 

purpuiva  
Sonlangeana  
vnr.  gracilis  
ppiTiosa    
stellata  

50 
.      52 
51 

'.'.'.  51 

INDEX. 


385 


Magnolia  Thompgoniann  
Umbrella  

....  52 
...  50 
02 

Ouercns  
alba  

.  -JO 

.  :;o 

30 

Moms  alba    
var.  fastigiata  
ni<'ra 

..     55 
...  55 
55 

Cerris  
coccinea...  
Daimio. 

.  31 
.  30 
31 

55 

31 

Tokwa  
Myrica  ct'rifura  
Nijgundoaceroides  
var.  crisptnn  
var.  foliis  argetituis  

....  56 
...98 
.    .  40 
...40 
..     40 
54 

imbriearia  
lyrata  
inacrocarpa  
M','"S('!ica  
palustris  
Pliellos 

80 

.  :;o 
80 
81 

.  30 
30 

Osirya  Vir-rinica  
I'aiilownia  imperial!*...  
Finns  Auatriaca  

...  65 
...   56 

...100 

Prinus  
var.  laciniata  
Kobur  . 

80 
80 
80 

Buiithamiana  
Cembra  

....100 
...102 
102 

var.  argentca  vuricgata  
var.  atropnrpurea  

31 
31 

;u 

101 

31 

Jeffrey!  

...101 
100 

var.  cncullaia  :  

31 
31 

Laricio  
mitis  
Mu-'ho 

...100 
...100 
101 

var.  laciniaia  
var.  latifolia  cucullata  

81 
81 

31 

Pallasiann  
PiiiiiBter  ...»  
ponderosa.      
pumilio  
imngens  

...100 
...100 
...101 
...  100 
...100 
.  100 

vnr.  macrophylla  
var.  nigricaii!--  
var.  pendiila  
rubra  
Rosa  Bonrboniana  

31 
31 
31 
80 

<>:! 
'(•^ 

sylvestris  
var.  horiznntalig  
Podocarpus  Japonic:!  
Potent  illaiYiiticosa  
Pyrns  Japonica  .      .. 
Phtladerphos  oofouarlna  
var.  nana  
(lianthiflora  
Gordo'.iianus  
grandiflorus  
nivalis  
Bangui  nuns  

..  100 
..  .100 
...114 

...  98 

.'.'.'  75 

.   .  75 

...  7<; 

...  7(5 
...  7(5 
...76 
...  7(5 
35 

Damascffiiia  
Indica  
Iiulica  udorain  
Indica  odorala  hybrida  
lutea.  
Noisetliana  hybrida  
Riibus  fruticoRiis  
var.  lac,iiiiatii!>  
Niitkanus  
odoratiiB  
Retinispora.—  (Sec  Thuja.; 
Rbamuua  catlmrticus..,  

n 
ea 

98 

n 

M 

ea 

in 
in 

M 
!M 

(IS 
(iS 

var    ni  vert  

...  35 

Cotinus. 

liS 

baliWinifera  
dilat-ita  
Gra-ca  pendiila.  

...35 
...  35 
.  .  .   35 
..  35 

glabra,  var.  laciniata  
Osbeckii  
typhina.  .  .  ,  

60 
88 
09 

S7 

monililera  

35 

Gordonianuin  

NT 

tremuloides  ,...   . 

...35 

87 

Primus  avinin,  fl.  pi  
doinMtica,  fl.  pi  

..  63 
.    .  (53 
64 

Robinia  hispidu  
var.  <:randiflora  

BO 

n 

58 

Padus  

Sinrnsis 

...  63 
.  (53 

var.  aurea  

n 

E8 

spinosu,  fl.  pi....  
tomentosu  '.  .    ..."!.. 
trllobn 

..     63 
...  63 
63 

vnr.  Bella-rosea  
var.  fastigiata  

58 

58 
5S 

Ptclea  trilbliata  
Pynis  Amcricann.  
nncnparia  

...  72 
...  61 
...  61 
01 

var.  inermis  rnbra  monstrosa. 
var.  pyramidalis  
var.  spcctabilis  

58 
58 
B8 

50 

coronana  
hybrida  

...60 

...  61 
61 

Salisburia  
Salix.  alba  var.  vitellina  

ni 
47 

47 

Kimbuc.i  folia  
suoclabilis  

.     61 
...  (50 

var.  Salmonii  
var.  annularis.     . 

47 
4S 

386 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


var.  tricolor  

....  48 

var.fllifera  
obtusa  
Bquarrosa  
occidentals  
var.  alba  

109 
109 
110 
107 
108 
108 
108 

Japonica  pendula  
laurifolia  
lucida 

...  48 
....  48 
...     48 
....  48 

palmicfolia  

purpurea  pendula  
regalis  
rosmarinifolia  
sericea  pendnla  
Wolseyana  pendula  
Sambucus  Canadensis  

....  48 
....  48 
....  48 
....  48 
....  48 
71 
71 

var.  aurea  
var.  Burrowil  

var.  conica  densa  
var.  compacta  
var.  crisiata... 

108 
108 
108 

var.  ericoides  
var.  <:lobosa  
var.  Hackerii  

108 
107 
109 

var.  aurea  

71 

var.  laciniata  
Sassafras  offlcinalis  
Sciadopitys  verticillata  
Sophora  Japonica  
var.  pendula  
Spirsca  callosa  

....  71 
....  61 
....113 
....  54 
....  54 
....  90 

var.  Iloveyi  

108 

var.  nana  

109 

var.  pendula  
var.  plicata  
var.  pyramidalis  
var.  rotundaia  
var.  Sibirica  

108 
108 
108 
109 
108 
108 

Douglasii  
Fortunei  

90 
....  90 
90 

var.  Warreana  
Tilia  Americana  

108 
.     46 

prunifolia  
Reevesiana  
salicifolia  var   fl  pi 

....  90 
..       90 
90 

46 

cordata  
Buropoea  
var.  alba 

47 
46 
46 

Billardi  
sorbifolia  
Thunbergii 

...  90 
....  91 
90 

var.  alba-pen  du!a  
var.  dasystyla  

46 
47 
46 

Staphylwa  Colcbica  

....  81 

81 

trifolia 

....  81 

...    78 
....  79 
....  89 
....  70 
70 

var.  laciniata  rubra  
var.  microphyllu  
var.  platyphlla  
var.  platyphylla  aurea.  .  . 
var.  pyramidalis  

46 
46 
46 

47 
47 
47 

Stuartia  pentagyna  
Vlrginica    :..,  
Styrax  Japonica  
Syriiifra  Chiuensis  
dubia 

Emodi  

....  70 
...  70 

.'.'.'.  70 
....  70 
70 

var.  sulpburea  
var.  vitifolia  
Torreya  California*  

47 
46 
113 

Persica  

var.  alba  
Rothomagensis  
Verschaffeltii  

nucil'era  
taxifolia 

113 
113 

Ulmus  campestris  

28 

28 
28 

vulgaris  
var.  variegata  
Tamarix  Galiica 

....  69 
....  69 
72 

var.  aurea  
var.  Bel<*ica 

var.  Cornubiensis  
var.  cticullata  
var.  monnmentalis  

28 
28 
28 
28 

Tnuiopsis  dolabrata  
Standishii  

....115 
....115 
....  52 
..   .52 
....  52 
114 

distichu  tii  pendulum  
Sinense  pendulum  

var.  purpurea  
var.  serratifolia  
var.  subcrosa  pendnla.  .  . 
var.  nrticaefolia  ...  
var.  Yftriegftta  argcntca. 
var.  viminalis  
fulva 

...    .28 
28 
28 
.....  28 
28 
28 
29 
29 
.  29 

baccata  

..  .114 

var.  aurea  
var.  Canadensis  

....114 
....114 
114 

var.  fastigiata  
Thuja  
(Biota)  orientalis  

....114 
....107 
....110 

var.  pendula  
DoviPi. 

nioiuaiia  

28 

var.  eleeantissima  
var.  flliformis  pendula  — 
var.  semper  aun-a  

....110 
....110 
.    ..110 

var.  Camperdowni  

28 
27 

var.  crispa  

..     29 

(Retinispora),  plnmosa  
plumosa  
var.  argeutea  
var.  aurra.  .  .  . 

...109 
...109 
....109 
...109 

var.  Huntingdon!  
var.  latifolhi  
vrr.  pendula  
var.  uendiihi  ni"osa.   . 

...    .29 
..    ..  29 
29 

...  29 

INDEX. 


387 


var.  pyramidalis  Uampieri....  29 
var.  superba  29 
Viburnum  Opnlus  76 

plicatum  

76 

77 

rngrosum  

73 

var.  sterilis  

76 
77 

BOTANICAL 
CEOUS   I 

134 

Virgilia  

54 

NAMES  OF  HAEDT 

LA  NTS. 

HEKBA- 

139 

INDEX  OF    THE 

Acanthu«  latifolins 

mollis  
Achillca  filipendula.... 
millelblium  rosemii 
Ptannica  fl.  pi...   . 
Achlys  triphylla  

\?A 
138 
138 
133 
138 
134 

australis.   ... 

139 

125 

Burlaiidiera  tonientosa.... 
Bctoiiica  offlcinalitf  
Bocconia  cordata  

140 
.140 
135 

Boltoniaglastilblia  
Brodiaea  congcgta  

140 
140 
140 

Japonicum  
Napellus  

138 
138 
134 

Brunella  t^randi  flora  
Biipthalinum  speciostim  .. 
Callirrhoealcaeoides  
involncrata   
triangnlata  
Calochortus  Guiiiiisoni.  .. 
Campanula  persicasfolia.  .  . 

140 
135 
140 
140 
140 
140 
.     126 

Actsea  alba  

13S 

138 

.138 

Atlonis  vernalis  
Ajuga  pyramiclalis  
reptans  

125 
138 
155 

Aletris  aurea  138 
farinosa  188 
AlCrudia  cernua  105 
AlliumMoly  138 
Alstrsemeria  aurantiaca  138 
Amianthiuni  luuecftetoxlcniu  13  i 
Amsonia  angUi-tifolia  139 
Tabernseniontana  139 

Tracheliiim  

126 
126 

126 
140 

Cassia  Marilandica  

C'atanaiicho  cserulca  
Ccntaurea  macroct-phala.  . 
inontana  
Ci'iitrantlius  rnber  

140 
140 
140 
140 
140 
140 
140 
140 
140 
126 
126 
147 
126 
141 
135 

cylindrica  
Japonica  
var.  alba  
patens,  var.  Niutal 
ucnioro?a,  fl.  pi  
Pounvylvanlc*  
ranunculoitles  
eylvestris  
Antennaria  dioica  
Autliericuin  Lilia"o... 

139 
123 
125 
iana  139 
125 
139 
139 
13!» 
139 
1^4 

Chrysopsis  Mariana  
.Clt-matia  erecta  
integrifolia    
Cliiitonia  borealis  
Colcbicum  aiitiiinnalc  
Couvallaria  majalis  
Coronilla  vnrla  
Crocus  veruus  
Crucianella  ftylosa  
Daciylis  gloinrnna.  .   . 

1  ili  as  trim  i  

125 
US 

Delphiniiun  aziin-uiii  
cielstinmn 

12« 

Aqnilcgia  cserulea 
chrysantha  

.   l-i5 
125 
125 
125 

funnosuni  
graiidiflornin  

120 
127 

127 

Skiimeri 

128 

caryophylloides.  .  .  . 
vulgarls  
Armeria  villains..  
Artemusia  Sielk-riana. 

125 
lio 
1-15 
135 
135 

Diantbus  barbatus  .   . 
dcltoidi-s  
dentosii!'  

127 
127 
127 

])liiraariiis  
(iiierterii 

127 
127 

135 

127 

Asclepias  tubcrosa.  .  . 
verticillata  

139 
139 
125 

spectabilis  

127 

DiclamnnsFraxiuella.  .  .. 

127 
127 

Aster  lonjnlblius  
Novae  Anfrliffi  
Novi  Bcl-rii  
oblonjrlfolltif 

139 
139 
1:59 
13»> 

Doroiucnin  Caucasicuia.  . 

141 
141 

Ecliinops  Ritro  

135 
136 

Astilbc  Japonica  

125 

Erantliis  hyenmlis  

142 

388 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


Erianthus  Ravenna?  
Krigeron  macranthitm  

....135 
....142 
142 

Lilium  Catesbooi  

....  130 
130 

Krameri  
longiflorum  
Pomponium  

130 
130 
130 
130 

liryiigium  amethystinum  

....135 
.   ..135 
127 

Ainuricauuin  
Dens-canis  

Kulalia  Japonica,  varieguta  

127 
127 
....135 
.  .  .  .  135 

superbum  
tenuifolium  

130 
130 
130 

130 

Enpatorium  ageratoides  
Euphorbia  corollata  
Myrsinites....  

142 
....142 
....142 
....135 

Liniira  perenne     
Lobelia  cardinalis  

143 

143 
143 

Lopanthus  anisatus  
Lotus  corniculatus  
Lupinus  polyphyllus  

143 
.     ..143 
143 
131 
.    ..  131 

m 

131 
131 
143 
143 

Fritillaria  imperialis  
Finikiaalba  

....127 
....128 
12S 

Japonica  
Sieboldii 

123 
....128 
..   ..136 
....128 
....142 
....142 
112 

.142 

Flos-cuctili.... 
FloB-Jovis  
Haagcana  
Viscaria,  fll.  pi  
Lysimachia  clethroidcs  

undulata  medio-picla  
Galaiithus  nivalis  
Gaur:i  anguMi  folia.  .   
Gentiana  Andrewsii  
cruciata  
Geranium  ptety  petal  Dm  

vulgaris  
Ly  thrum  Salicaria  

....   143 
129 
143 

Geuin  coccinemn  
Gillenia  trifoliata  
Gyneritim  argenteam  
Gypsopliila  acutifolia    

....  142 
142 
....IS! 
....142 
..142 
....142 
142 
....136 
....128 
....128 

Montlia  rotundifolia,  var  
Mcrtensia  pauiculaia  
Virginica  
Mimulus  cardinali.-  
Monarda  didyma  
Muscari  botryoides.  .  .     ...     . 
comosum  

13li 
143 
...   143 
144 

....144 
128 
128 

Hulianthns  angustifoliiw     
mollis  
orgyalis  
HenH-rocallis  flava  

moscliatum  
Myosotis  dissitiflora  
Narcissus  Joiiquilla  

128 
131 
1-29 

Kwanso,  var  
Hesperis  matronalis  
Hibiscus  Califoniicus  
grandiflorus  
Moscheutos  
Hieracium  anraiitiacuni  
Hyacintlius  oriental's  

IlvSfnpllS   officillllli*  

....136 
....128 
.    ..143 
143 
...  143 
....143 
....128 
....143 
128 

Nepeta  Masseni  
Nierembergia  rivularis  
(Enothera  Missouricnsis  
speciosa  
Omithogaluin  pyramidalo.  .   .. 
umbellatum  
Orobus  vernus  
Pavonia  Moutan  
offlcinalis 

.    ...144 
.144 
144 
.....144 
...131 
131 
..   ..131 
....131 
..    ..131 
132 
144 
.   .  135 
....   141 
.    ..134 
132 
132 
132 
144 
.   ..  126 
...   .132 
132 
..145 
145 
.     ..144 
..   ..144 
141 
132 
.   ..132 
..    ..132 
144 
144 

Gibfaltarica  

....128 

tennifolia  
Pachysandia  procumbcn-  
Panicum  vireatnm  
Pentstemon  barbatus        .   ... 
Phalaris  arundinac^vi.  var.  .  . 
Phlox  divaricata  
reptans  
subulaia           
Pbysost'^'ia  Virginiana  
Platycodon  grand  i  flora  ra.  . 
Polcmoninm  c.cruleuiii  
reptans  
Polygonatum  vnlgarc  
var.  macranthum  
Polygonum  cnspidutuin  
vaccinifolium  
Potentilla  pyroniaca  
Primula  vulgaris  
Pulmonari.-i  angu-tifolia  
maculata  
Pyretlirum  Tchihatchcwii  

sempervirens  ..   . 
Iris  Florentina  

....128 
.     129 
....129 

Ibirica  
Ka'mpfcri 

..   .129 
....129 
.    ..129 
.       129 
....129 
.   ..129 
.    .   129 
....129 
....  129 
...129 
...130 
....130 
....  130 
....129 
.    .   129 
....129 

li-vigata  
Pavonia  
pnmila  
reticulata  
xiphioides  
Xiphiura  
Lathyrus  granditlorus  
Inlirolius  
Lencnjum  icstivum  
autumnalis  
vernum  
Liatris  clegans  
pumila  
spicata  

Lilium  aiiratum  ... 
Canadense  
candidnm  

....130 
....130 
...   130 

fascicularis.  .  .  . 

...  1  14 

INDEX. 


389 


Rheum  Einodi  

...106 
136 

Symphytum  offlcinale,  var  
Tauacetum  Balsamiia.  
Thalictrum  aquilegifolium  
spetiostim  
Thymus  citriodorus  .  .  .  . 
Serpyllum,  var  
Tradescantia  Virginica  
Triteleia  uniflora  
Tritoma  Uvaria  

..137 
..145 
..145 
..145 
..137 
137 
.133 
.   145 
..133 
..145 
.145 
..145 
..134 
.  134 
134 

Rudbeckia  maxima  
nitida  
Salvia  argentea  
azurea  
officinal!  s  tricolor  
Santolina  Cbamiecyparissue  .... 
Sedum  cruciatum  

.  .  .  141 
..  142 
...137 
..137 
...137 
...137 
..137 

spectabilis  
Senecio  aureus  
Sileue  maritima  
orientalis  
Pennsylvania  
Schafta  
Silphium  laciniatum  
pi-rfoliatum  
Sisyrinchium  grandiflorum  
Spigelia  Manlandica  
Spinea  ArtmcQS  

..137 
...145 
...133 
...133 

.  .  .  m 

...133 
...137 
...137 
...145 
...133 
...133 
133 

Valeriana  offlcinalis  
Verbena  bipumatiflda  
montana,  
Veronica  amethystina  
gentianoides  

Vinca  major  
minor  
Viola  blanda 

..134 
..134 
134 

..134 
..134 
134 

pedata  

Japonica  
venusta  
Stachys  coccinea  
lanata  

INDEX   OF  THE   EOT 

...125 
...133 
.  .  .  145 
...145 

ANIC. 

...122 
...122 
...122 
118 

Wahlenbergia  grandiflora  
Yucca  angustif  olia  

..126 

..137 
137 

fllamentosa  
iL   NAMES   OF   CLIMBEKS. 

Lonicera  Periclymenum  
sempervirens  

..137 

..120 

..120 
120 

Akebia  quinata     
Aristolochia  Sipho  

var,  minus  
Standiehii  

..120 
..121 

indivisa  
quinquefolia  

Roylii 

.  .118 
...118 
118 

Mentepermnm  Canadense  

..122 
123 

tricuspidata  
Veitchii  
Celagtrus  scandens  
Clematis  coccinea  
Jackmanii  
Virginiana  
Cocculus  Carolina?  
Hi'dera  Helix  var  Hibernica 

...118 
...118 
...122 
...121 
...121 
...121 
.   .123 
.124 

Tecoma  radicans  

..122 
..122 
..123 

grandiflora  

Vitis  wstivalis  

cordifolia  

..123 
122 

indivisa  

.  123 

vnlpina  
Wistaria  bracbybotrys 

..123 
.119 
.119 
..119 
..119 
..119 
...119 
..119 
..119 
'..119 
..119 

D 

..146 

146 

Jasniinum  offlcinale  

...123 

frutescens  

Lonicera  brachypoda  
var,  reticulata  
Caprifolium,  var.  pjillida..  .. 
flava  
var.  Canadensis  

...120 
...120 
...120 
...120 
...120 
100 

var.  alba  
var.  masrnifica  
Japonica  alba  

Sinensis  

var.  alba  

....120 
...121 

NICA 
OCK   I 

...146 
146 

var.  Belgica  — 
INDEX  OF  THE  BOTA 
R 

Acantholtraon  glumacenm  ..... 

var.  alba  
L  NAMES  OF  ALPINE  AN 
'LANTS. 
Bulbocodinm  vemnra  

Alyssum  saxatile  
var.  compactum  

....146 
...146 
146 

tomentosum  

..146 
..146 
..146 
...146 

Camassia.  sp  
Campanula  Carpatica  
isophylla  

Aqnilegia  Canadensis  
Arabis,  cp  
Arenarin.  sp  
Anneria  plantaginea  
vulL'aris  
Aubrietia,  ep  

...146 
...146 
...146 
...146 
..   .146 
...146 

rotundifolia  

..146 
...147 
..147 
147 

Cheiranthns  alpinus  

Epimcdium  alpiuum  

..147 

390 


ORNAMENTAL  GARDENING. 


Epimedinm  pinnatum  147 

Saxifraga  cordifolia  

148 
148 

Gentiana  acaulis  147 

ligulata  

148 

Virginiensis  

148 

149 

serpyllifolia  147 

Kara  tscbati  cum  
populifolium  
puicbellum  
Sieboldii  
spectabile  

149 
149 
149 
149 
.  .149 

Linaria  alpina  147 

Visearia,  var.  splendens  147 
Mitchella  repens  147 
Nepeta  Gleclioma  147 

Telunhium  

149 

Oxalis  violaceii  147 
Puntsteinon  acuminatus.   147 
Phlox  amcena                                        148 

Sempervivtun,  sp  
Silent;  alpestris  
Tunica  Saxifraga  
Veronica  alpina...  

149 
l-i<» 
149 
149 
149 

AND 

152 
152 

Douglasii  147 

Pyxklanthera  barbiilata  148 
Sapouaria  ocymoides  148 

INDEX  OF  THE  BOTANICAL 
BOG   PI 

Adiantum  pedatum  151 
Anemone  Apeuuina  150 
nemorosa   150 
var.  bracteata...   .   150 
Aplectrum  hyemale                    .    ...  150 

Waldetenia  fragarioides. 

NAMES  OF  AQUATIC 

jANTS. 

Goodyera,  sp  
Helleborus  atrorubens 

152 

Helonias  bullata  
Hepatica,  sp  

158 

152 

151 

AristolochiaSerpentaria  150 
Asanim  Canadense  150 
caiulatuni  150 
Virginicum  150 
Aspidium  frap-rans        151 
acrostichoidea                              151 

Orcbis  spuctabilis  
Pellsea  atropurpurea  
Pterisaquilitia  
Podopliyllum  peltatmn  

152 
152 
152 
153 

Polygala  pauci  fol  ia  
Polypodium  vnlgare  
RamondiaPyrenalca  

152 
152 
152 

Asplenium  ebeneum  151 

Camptosorus  rhizopliyllus  151 
Cheilanthcs  tomentosa  151 

Rbexia  Virginica  
Sanguinaria    anadense  
Selaginella  ep  
Smihicina  stellata  
Trillium  cernuum  
erythrocarpnm  
grancliflorum  
nivale  
Viola  Canadensis  

152 
152 
152 
152 
152 
153 
153 
153 
153 
153 

Cypripedium  acaule  150 
Calceolus  150 
Dodecatheon  Meadia  150 
var.  lancifolium  150 
Epigsea  repens  150 
Fritillaria  atropurpurea  152 

153 
152 

AND 

154 
154 
154 
154 
154 
154 
154 
155 
154 
154 

Woodsia  Ilvensis  
^.L  NAMES  OF  FERNS 
NG   PLANTS. 
Habenaria  flmbriata  
psycodes  

INDEX   OF  THE  BOTANIC^ 
SHADE-LOVl 

Acorns  Calamus  .  .  153 
Arissema  Dracontium  ....153 
Brasenia  peltata  153 
Callapalustris  154 
Calopogon  pnlchellus  153 
Caltba  palnstris  153 
Calypso  borealis  153 
Cypripedium  arietinutn  154 

Lobelia  cardinalis  
Nympbaea  odoruta  
Nupbar  advena  
Orontium  aquaticum  
Parnassia  asarifolia.   ...... 
Pontederia  cordata  
Pogonia,  sp  
Sabbatia  chloroicles  

parviflorum  154 

spectabile  -   .-153 
DarlinKtonia  Californica  154 
Drosera  filiformis  154 
rotnndi  folia....  154 
Ilabenaria  blepharMottis       154 

Sagittaria  variabilis.  
Sarracenia  purpurea  

154 
155 
155 
155 

Typha  angustifolia  
latifolia  

155 
155 

ciliariB....                                ,...154 

SENT    FREE    ON    APPLICATION. 


DESCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE 

— :  OF  : — 

RURAL  BOOKS, 

Containing  116  8vo  pages,  profusely  illustrated,  and  giving 
full  descriptions  of  nearly  600  works  on  the  following  subjects: 

FARM  AND  GARDEN, 

FRUITS,  FLOWERS,  ETC., 

CATTLE,  SHEEP,  AND  SWINE, 
DOGS,  ETC.,  HORSES,  RIDING,  ETC., 

POULTRY,  PIGEONS,  AND  BEES, 

ANGLING  AND  FISHING, 
BOATING,  CANOEING,  AND  SAILING, 

FIELD  SPORTS  AND  NATURAL  HISTORY, 

HUNTING,  SHOOTING,  ETC., 
ARCHITECTURE  AND  BUILDING, 

LANDSCAPE  GARDENING, 

HOUSEHOLD  AND  MISCELLANEOUS, 

PUBLISHERS   AND   IMPORTERS. 

ORANGE    JUDD    COMPANY, 

52  &  54  Lafayette  Place,  New  York. 


2  STANDARD    BOOKS. 

Mushrooms.    How  to  Grow  Them. 

For  home  use  fresh  Mushrooms  are  a  delicious,  highly  nutritious  and 
•wholesome  delicacy;  and  for  market  they  are  less  bulky  than  eggs, 
and,  when  properly  handled,  no  crop  is  more  remunerative.  Anyone 
who  has  an  ordinary  house  cellar,  woodshed,  or  barn  can  grow  Mush- 
rooms. This  is  the  most  practical  work  on  the  subject  ever  written, 
and  the  only  book  on  growing  Mushrooms  ever  published  in  America. 
The  whole  subject  is  treated  in  detail,  minutely  and  plainly,  as  only  a 
practical  man,  actively  engaged  in  Mushroom  growing,  can  handle  it. 
The  author  describes  how  he  himself  grows  Mushrooms,  and  how  they 
are  grown  for  profit  by  the  leading  market  gardeners,  and  for  home 
use  by  the  most  successful  private  growers.  The  book  is  amply  and 
pointedly  illustrated,  with  engravings  drawn  from  nature  expressly 
for  this  work.  By  Win.  Falconer.  Is  nicely  printed  and  bound  in 
cloth.  Price,  post-paid 1.50 

Allen's  New  American  Farm  Book. 

The  very  best  work  on  the  subject ;  comprising  all  that  can  be  con- 
densed into  an  available  volume.  Originally  by  Richard  L.  Allen. 
Revised  and  greatly  enlarged  by  Lewis  F.  Allen.  Cloth,  12mo. . .  2.50 

Henderson's  Gardening  for  Front. 

By  Peter  Henderson.  New  edition.  Entirely  rewritten  and  greatly 
enlarged.  The  standard  work  on  Market  and  Family  Gardening. 
The  successful  experience  of  the  author  for  more  than  thirty  years, 
and  his  willingness  to  tell,  as  he  does  in  this  work,  the  secret  of  his 
success  for  the  benefit  of  others,  enables  him  to  give  most  valuable 
information.  The  book  is  profusely  illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo.--  2.00 

Fuller's  Fractical  Forestry. 

A  Treatise  on  the  Propagation,  Planting,  and  Cultivation,  with  a  de- 
scription and  the  botanical  and  proper  names  of  all  the  indigenous 
trees  of  the  United  States,  both  Evergreen  and  Deciduous,  with  Notes 
on  a  large  number  of  the  most  valuable  Exotic  Species.  By  Andrew 
S.  Fuller,  author  of  "Grape  Culturist,"  "Small  Fruit  Culturist,"  etc. 

1.50 

The  Dairyman's  Manual 

By  Henry  Stewart,  author  of  "The  Shepherd's  Manual,"  "Irriga- 
tion," etc.  A  useful  and  practical  work  by  a  writer  who  is  well 
known  as  thoroughly  familiar  with  the  subject  of  which  he  writes. 
Cloth,  12mo . 2.00 

Truck  Farming  at  the  South. 

A  work  giving  the  experience  of  a  successful  grower  of  vegetables  or 
"  grain  trucK*'  for  Northern  markets.  Essential  to  any  one  who  con- 
templates entering  this  promising  field  of  Agriculture.  By  A.  Oemler, 
of  Georgia,  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

Harris  on  the  Fig. 

New  edition.  Revised  and  enlarged  by  the  author.  The  points  of  the 
various  English  and  American  breeds  are  thoroughly  discussed,  and 
the  great  advantage  of  using  thoroughbred  males  clearly  shown.  The 
work  is  equally  valuable  to  the  farmer  who  keeps  but  few  pigs,  and  to 
the  breeder  on  an  extensive  scale.  By  Joseph  Harris.  Illustrated. 
Cloth,  12mo  ._.* 1.50 

Jones's  Peanut  Flant— Its  Cultivation  and  TJses. 

A  practical  Book,  instructing  the  beginner  how  to  raise  good  crops 
of  Peanuts.  By  B.  W,  Jones,  Surry  Co.,  Va.  Paper  Cover, 50 


STANDARD    BOOKS.  .  3 

Barry's  Fruit  Garden. 

By  P.  Barry.  A  standard  work  on  fruit  and  fruit-trees  ;  the  author 
having  had  over  thirty  years'  practical  experience  at  the  head  of  one 
of  the  largest  nurseries  in  this  country.  New  edition,  revised  up  to 
date.  Invaluable  to  all  fruit-growers.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo.  2.CO 

The  Propagation  of  Plants. 

By  Andrew  S.  Fuller.  Illustrated  with  numerous  engravings.  An 
eminently  practical  and  useful  work.  Describing  the  process  of  hy- 
bridizing and  crossing  species  and  varieties,  and  also  the  many  differ- 
ent modes  by  which  cultivated  plants  may  be  propagated  and  multi- 
plied. Cloth,  12mo :...... 1.50 

Stewart's  Shepherd's  Manual. 

A  Valuable  Practical  Treatise  on  tho  Sheep,  'or  American  fanners  and 
sheep  growers.  It  is  so  plain  that  a  farmer,  or  a  farmer's  son,  who 


has  never  kept  a  sheep,  may  learn  from  its  pages  how  to  manage  a 
flock  successfully,  and  yet  F.O  complete  that  even  the  experienced 
shepherd  may  gather  many  suggestions  from  it.  The  results  of  per- 


sonal experience  of  some  years  with  the  characters  of  the  various  mod- 
ern breeds  of  sheep,  and  the  sheep-raising  capabilities  of  many  portions 
of  our  extensive  territory  and  that  of  Canada— and  the  careful  study  of 
the  diseases  to  which  our  sheep  are  chiefly  subject,  with  those  by  which 
they  may  eventually  be  afflicted  through  unforeseen  accidents— as  well 
as  the  methods  of  management  called  for  under  our  circumstances,  are 
here  gathered.  By  Henry  Stewart.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

Allen's  American  Cattle. 

Their  History,  Breeding,  and  Management.  By  Lewis  F.  Allen.  This 
Book  will  be  considered  indispensable  by  every  breeder  of  live  stock. 
The  large  experience  of  the  author  in  improving  the  character  of 
American  herds  adds  to  the  weight  of  his  observations,  and  has 
enabled  him  to  produce  a  work  which  will  at  once  make  good  his 
claims  as  a  standard  authority  on  the  subject.  New  and  revised 
edition.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo 250 

Fuller's  Grape  Culturist. 

By.  A.  S.  Fuller.  This  is  one  of  the  very  best  of  works  on  the  culture 
of  the  hardy  grapes,  with  full  directions  for  all  departments  of  propa- 
gation, culture,  etc.,  with  150  excellent  engravings,  illustrating  plant- 
ing, training,  grafting,  etc.  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

White's  Cranberry  Culture. 

CONTENTS  :— Natural  History.— History  of  Cultivation.— Choice  of 
Location. — Preparing  the  Ground. — Planting  the  Vines. — Management 
of  Meadows.— Flooding— Enemies  and  Difficulties  Overcome.— Pick- 
ing.— Keeping. — Profit  and  Loss. — Letters  from  Practical  Growers. — 
Insects  Injurious  to  the  Cranberry.  By  Joseph  J.  White.  A  practi- 
cal grower.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo.  New  and  revised  edition.  1.25 

Herbert's  Hints  to  Horse-Keepers. 

This  is  one  of  the  best  and  most  popular  works  on  the  Horse  in  this 
country.  A  Complete  Manual  for  Horsemen,  embracing:  How  to 
Breed  a  Horse ;  How  to  Buy  a  Horse ;  How  to  Break  a  Horse  ;  How 
to  Use  a  Horse  ;  How  to  Feed  a  Horse ;  How  to  Physic  a  Horse  (Allo- 
pathy or  HomcBpathy) ;  How  to  Groom  a  Horse ;  How  to  Drive  a 
Horse  ;  How  to  Ride  a  Horse,  etc.  By  the  late  Henry  William  Her- 
bert (Frank  Forester),  Beautifully  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo...  1.75 


4  STANDARD    BOOKS. 

Henderson's  Practical  Floriculture. 

By  Peter  Henderson.  A  guide  to  the  successful  propagation  and 
cultivation  of  florists'  plants.  The  work  is  not  one  for  llorists  and 
gardeners  only,  but  the  amateur's  wants  are  constantly  kept  in  mind, 
and  we  have  a  very  complete  treatise  on  the  cultivation  of  flowers 
under  glass,  or  in  the  open  air,  suited  to  those  who  grow  flowers  for 
pleasure  as  well  as  those  who  make  them  a  matter  of  trade.  The 
work  is  characterized  by  the  same  radical  common  sense  that  marked 
the  author's  "Gardening  for  Profit,"  and  it  holds  a  high  place  in  the 
estimation  of  lovers  of  agriculture.  Beautifully  illustrated.  New  and 
enlarged  edition.  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

Harris's  Talks  on  Manures. 

By  Joseph  Harris,  M.  S.,  author  of  "  Walks  and  Talks  on  the  Farm," 
"Harris  on  the  Pig."  etc.  Revised  and  enlarged  by  the  author.  A 
series  of  familiar  and  practical  talks  between  the  author  and  the  dea- 
con, the  doctor,  and  other  neighbors,  on  the  whole  subject  of  manures 
and  fertilizers  ;  including  a  chapter  specially  written  for  it  by  Sir  John 
Bennet  Lawes,  of  Rothamsted,  England.  Cloth,  12mo 1 1.75 

Waring' s  Draining  for  Profit  and  Draining  for  Health. 

This  book  is  a  very  complete  and  practical  treatise,  the  directions  in 
which  are  plain,  and  easily  followed.  The  subject  of  thorough  farm 
drainage  is  discussed  in  all  its  bearings,  and  also  that  more  extensive 
land  drainage  by  which  the  sanitary  condition  of  any  district  may  be 
greatly  improved,  even  to  the  banishment  of  fever  and  ague,  typhoid 
and  malarious  fever.  By  Geo.  E.  Waring,  Jr  Illustrated,  Cloth  12mo. 

1.50 

The  Practical  Babbit-Keeper. 

By  Cuniculus.  Illustrated.  A  comprehensive  work  on  keeping  and 
raising  Rabbits  for  pleasure  as  well  as  for  profit.  The  book  is  abun 
dantly  illustrated  with  all  the  various  Courts,  Warrens,  Hutches, 
Fencing,  etc.,  and  also  with  excellent  portraits  of  the  most  important 
Bpecies  of  rabbits  throughout  the  world.  12m.o 1-50 

ftuinby's  New  Bee-Keeping. 

The  Mysteries  of  Bee-keeping  Explained.  Combining  the  results  of 
Fifty  Years'  Experience,  with  the  latest  discoveries  and  inventions, 
and  presenting  the  most  approved  methods,  forming  a  complete  work. 
Cloth,  12mo  -- -  1.50 

Profits  in  Poultry. 

Useful  and  Ornamental  Breeds  and  their  Profitable  Management.  This 
excellent  work  contains  the  combined  experience  of  a  number  of  prac- 
tical men  in  all  departments  of  poultry  raising.  It  is  profusely  illus- 
trated and  forms  an  unique  and  important  addition  to  our  poultry  lit- 
erature. Cloth,  12mo - - 1.00 

Barn  Plans  and  Outbuildings. 

Two  Hundred  and  Fifty-seven  Illustrations.  A  most  Valuable  Work, 
full  of  Ideas,  Hints,  Suggestions,  Plans,  etc.,  for  the  Construction  of 
Barns  and  Outbuildings,  by  Practical  writers.  Chapters  are  devoted, 
amona;  other  subjects,  to  the  Economic  Erection  and  Use  of  Barns. 
Grain^Barns,  House  Barns,  Cattle  Barns,  Sl^eep  Barns,  Corn  Houses, 
Smoke  Houses,  Ice  Houses,  Pig  Pens,  Granaries,  etc.  There  are  like- 
wise chapters  upon  Bird  Houses,  Dog  Houses,  Tool  Sheds,  Ventila- 
tors, Roofs  and  Roofing,  Doors  and  Fastenings,  Work  Shops,  Poultry 
Houses,  Manure  Sheds,  Barn  Yards,  Root  Pits,  etc.  Recently  pub- 
lished. Cloth,  12mo 1.50 


STANDARD    BOOKS.  5 

Parsons  on  the  Rose. 

By  Samuel  B.  Parsocs.  A  treatise  on  the  propagation,  culture,  and 
history  of  the  rose.  New  and  revised  edition.  In  his  work  upon  the 
rose,  Mr.  Parsons  has  gathered  up  the  curious  legends  concerning 
the  flower,  and  gives  us  an  idea  of  the  esteem  in  which  it  was  held  in 
former  times.  A  simple  garden  classiiication  has  been  adopted,  and 
the  leading  varieties  under  each  class  enumerated  and  briefly 
described.  The  chapters  on  multiplication,  cultivation,  and  training 
are  very  full,  and  the  work  is  altogether  one  of  the  mcst  complete 
before  the  public.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo 1.00 

Heinrich's  Window  Flower  Garden. 

The  author  is  a  practical  florist,  and  this  enterprising  volume  em- 
bodies his  personal  experiences  in  Window  Gardening  during  a  long 
period.  New  and  enlarged  edition.  By  Julius  J.  Heinrich.  Fully 
Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo 75 

Liautard's  Chart  of  the  Age  of  the  Domestic  Animals. 

Adopted  by  the  United  States  Army.  Enables  one  to  accurately  de- 
termine the  age  of  horses,  cattle,  sheep,  doge,  and  pigs 50 

Pedder's  Land  Measurer  for  Farmers. 

A  convenient  Pocket  Companion,  showing  at  once  the  contents  of 
any  piece  of  land,  whe:i  its  length  and  width  are  known,  up  to  1,500 
feet  either  way,  with  various  other  useful  farm  tables.  Cloth,  18mo; 

.60 

How  to  Plant  and  What  to  Do  with  the  Crops. 

With  other  valuable  hints  for  the  Farm,  Garden  and  Orchard.  By 
Mark  W.  Johnson.  Illustrated.  CONTENTS  :  Times  for  Sowing  Seeds  : 
Covering  Seeds;  Field  Crops;  Garden  or  Vegetable  Seeds,  Sweet 
Herbs,  etc.;  Tree  Seeds  ;  Flower  Seeds  ;  Fruit  Trees;  Distances  Apart 
for  Fruit  Trees  and  Shrubs  ;  Profitable  Farming ;  Green  or  Manuring 
Crops  ;  Root  Crops ;  Forage  Plants  ;  What  to  do  with  the  Crops  ;  The 
Eotation  of  Crops;  Varieties  ;  Paper  Covers,  post-paid 50 

Your  Plants. 

Plain  and  Practical  Directions  for  the  Treatment  of  Tender  and  Hardy 
Plants  in  the  House  and  in  the  Garden.  By  James  Sheehan.  The 
above  title  well  describes  the  character  of  the  work — "  Plain  and  Prac- 
tical." The  author,  a  commercial  florist  and  gardener,  has  endeavored, 
in  this  work,  to  answer  the  many  questions  asked  by  his  customers,  as 
to  the  proper  treatment  of  plants.  The  book  shows  all  through  that 
Its  author  is  a  practical  man,  and  he  writes  as  one  with  a  large  store 
of  experience.  The  work  better  meets  the  wants  of  the  amateur  who 
grows  a  few  plants  in  the  window,  or  has  a  small  flower  Garden,  than 
a  larger  treatise  intended  for  those  who  cultivate  plants  upon  a  moro 
extended -scale.  Price,  post-paid,  paper  covers 40 

Husmann's  American  Grape-Growing  and  Wine-Making. 

By  George  Husmann  of  Talcoa  vineyards,  Napa,  California.  New  and 
enlarged  edition.  With  contributions  from  well-known  grape-growers, 
giving  a  wide  range  of  experience.  The  author  of  this  book  is  a 
recognized  uthority  on  the  subject.  Cloth,  12mo... 1.50 

The  Scientific  Angler. 

A  general  and  instructive  work  on  Artistic  Angling,  by  the  late  David 
Foster.  Complied  by  his  Sons.  With  an  Introductory  Chapter  and 
Copious  Foot  Notes,"by  William  C.  Harris,  Editor  of  the  "  American 
Angler."  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 


0  STANDARD    BOOKS. 

Keeping  One  Cow. 

A  collection  of  Prize  Essays,  and  selections  from  a  number  of  other 
Essays,  with  editorial  notes,  suggestions,  etc.  This  book  gives  the 
latest  information,  and  in  a  clear  and  condensed  form,  upon  the  man- 
agement of  a  single  Milch  Cow.  Illustrated  with  full-page  engrav- 
ings of  the  most  famous  dairy  cows.  .Recently  published.  Cloth, 
12mo 1.00 

law's  Veterinary  Adviser 

A  Guide  to  the  Prevention  and  Treatment  of  Disease  in  Domestic 
Animals.  This  is  one  of  the  best  works  on  this  subject,  and  is  especi- 
ally designed  to  supply  the  need  of  the  busy  American  Farmer,  who 
jean  rarely  avail  himself  of  the  advice  of  a  Scientific  Veterinarian.  It 
is  brought  up  to  date  and  treats  of  the  Prevention  of  Disease,  as  well 
as  of  the  Remedies.  By  Prof.  Jas.  Law.  Cloth,  Crown  8vo 3.00 

Guenon's  Treatise  on  Milch  Cows. 

A  Treatise  on  the  Bovine  Species  in  General.  An  entirely  new  trans- 
lation of  the  last  edition  of  this  popular  and  instructive  book.  By 
Thos.  J.  Hand,  Secretary  of  the  American  Jersey  Cattle  Club.  With 
over  100  Illustrations,  especially  engraved  for  this  work.  Cloth,  12mo. 

The  Cider  Maker's  Handbook. 

A  complete  guide  for  making  and  keeping  pure  cider.  By  J.  M.  Trow- 
bridge.  Fully  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo 1.00 

Long's  Ornamental  Gardening  for  Americans. 

A  treatise  on  Beautifying  Homes,  Rural  Districts,  and  Cemeteries.  A 
plain  and  practical  work  at  a  moderate  price,  with  numerous  illus- 
trations, and  instructions  so  plain  that  they  may  be  readily  followed. 
By  Elias  A.  Long.  Landscape  Architect.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo. 

2.00 

The  Dogs  of  Great  Britain,  America  and  Other  Countries. 

New,  enlarged  and  revised  edition.  Their  breeding,  training  and 
management,  in  health  and  disease  ;  comprising  all  the  essential  parts 
of  the  two  standard  works  on  the  dog,  by  "  Stonehenge, "  thereby  fur- 
nishing for  $2  what  once  cost  $11.25.  Contains  Lists  of  all  Premiums 
given  at  the  last  Dog  Shows.  It  Describes  the  Best  Game  and  Hunt- 
ing Grounds  in  America.  Contains  over  One  Hundred  Beautiful  En- 
gravings, embracing  most  noted  Dogs  in  both  Continents,  making  to- 
gether, with  Chapters  by  American  Writers,  the  most  Complete  Dog 
Book  ever  published.  Cloth,  12mo 2.00 

Stewart's  Feeding  Animals. 

By  Elliot  W.  Stewart.  A  new  and  valuable  practical  work  upon  the 
laws  of  animal  growth,  specially  applied  to  the  rearing  and  feeding 
horses,  cattle,  diary  cows,  sheep  and  swine.  Illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo. 

How  to  Co-operate. 

A  Manual  for  Co-operators.  By  Herbert  Myrick.  This  book  describes 
the  how  rather  than  the  wherefore  of  co-operation.  In  other  words  it 
tells  how  to  manage  a  co-operative  store,  farm  or  factory,  and  co-op- 
erative dairying,  banking  and  fire  insurance,  and  co-operative  farmers' 
and  women's  exchanges  for  both  buying  and  selling.  The  directions 
given  are  based  on  the  actual  experience  of  successful  co-operative  en- 
terprises in  all  parts  of  the  United  States.  The  character  and  useful- 
ness of  the  book  commend  it  to  the  attention  of  all  men  and  women 
who  desire  to  better  their  condition,  12mo.  Cloth.,,,, 1-50 


STANDARD    BOOKS.  7 

Batty's  Practical  Taxidermy  and  Home  Decoration. 

By  Joseph  H.  Batty,  taxidermist  for  the  government  surveys  and 
many  colleges  and  museums  in  the  United  States.  An  entirely  new 
and  complete  as  well  as  authentic  work  on  taxidermy — giving  in 
detail  full  directions  for  collecting  and  mounting  animals,  birds,  rep- 
tiles, fish,  insects,  and  general  objects  of  natural  history.  125  illus- 
trations. Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

Stewart's  Irrigation  for  the  Farm,  Garden,  and  Orchard. 

New  and  Enlarged  Edition.  This  work  is  offered  to  those  American 
Farmers,  and  other  cultivators  cf  the  soil,  who  from  painful  expe- 
rience can  readily  appreciate  the  losses  whicli  result  frovnthe  scarcity 
of  water  at  critical  periods.  By  Henry  Stewart.  Fully  illustrated. 
Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

Johnson's  How  Crops  Grow. 

New  Edition,  entirely  rewritten.  A  Treatise  on  the  Chemical  Compo- 
sition, Structure,  and  Life  of  the  Plant.  Revised  Edition.  This  book 
is  a  guide  to  the  knowledge  of  agricultural  plants,  their  composition, 
their  structure,  and  modes  of  development  and  growth  ;  of  the  com- 
-plex  organization  cf  plants,  and  the  use  of  the  parts  ;  the  germination 
of  seeds,  and  the  food  of  plants  obtained  both  from  the  air  and  the 
soil.  The  book  is  an  invaluable  one  to  all  real  students  of  agricul- 
ture. With  numerous  illustrations  and  tables  of  analysis.  By  Prof. 
Samuel  W.  Johnson,  of  Yale  College.  Cloth,  12mo 2.00 

Johnson's  How  Crops  Feed. 

A  treatise  on  the  Atmosphere  and  the  Soil,  as  related  in  the  Nutrition 
of  Agricultural  Plants.  The  volume — the  companion  and  complement 
to  "Bow  Crops  Grow,"— has  been  welcomed  by  those  who  appreciate 
scientific  aspects  of  agriculture.  Illustrated.  By  Prof.  Samuel  W. 
Johnson.  Cloth,  12mo - 2.00 

Warington's  Chemistry  of  the  Farm. 

Treating  with  the  utmost  clearness  and  conciseness,  and  in  the  most 
popular  manner  possible,  of  the  relations  of  Chemistry  to  Agriculture, 
and  providing  a  welcome  manual  for  those,  who,  while  not  haying 
time  to  systematically  study  Chemistry,  will  gladly  have  such  an  idea 
as  this  gives  them  of  its  relation  to  operations  on  the  farm.  By  R. 
Warington,  F.  C.  S.  Cloth,  12mo - 1.00 

French's  Farm  Drainage. 

The  Principles,  Process,  and  Effects  of  Draining  Land,  with  Stones, 
Wood,  Ditch-plows,  Open  Ditches,  and  especially  with  Ties ;  includ- 
ing Tables  of  Rainfall,  Evaporation,  Filteration,  Excavation,  Capacity 
of  Pipes,  cost  and  number  to  the  acre.  By  Judge  French,  of  New 
Hampshire.  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

Hunter  and  Trapper. 

The  best  modes  of  Hunting  and  Trapping  arc  fully  explained,  and 
Foxes,  Deer,  Bears,  etc.,  fall  into  his  traps  readily  by  following  his 
directions.  By  Halsey  Thrasher,  an  old  and  experienced  sportsman. 
Cloth,  12mo --  75 

The  American  Merino.    For  Wool  or  for  Mutton. 
A  practical  and  most  valuable  work  on  the  selection,  care,  breeding 
and  diseases  of  the  Merino  sheep,  in  all  sections  of  the  the  United 
States.     It  is  a  full  and  exhaustive  treatise  upon  this  one  breed  of 
sheep.    By  Stephen  Powers.    Cloth.  12mo 1.50 


8  STANDARD    BOOKS. 

Armatage's  Every  Man  His  Own  Horse  Doctor. 

By  Prof.  George  Armatage,  M.  R.  C.  V.  S.  A  valuable  and  compre- 
hensive guide  for  both  the  professional  and  general  reader  with  the 
fullest  and  latest  information  regarding  all  diseases,  local  injuries, 
lameness,  operations,  poisons,  the  dispensatory,  etc  ,  etc.,  with  practi- 
^  cal  anatomical  and  surgical  Illustrations.  New  Edition.  Together 
'with  Elaine's  "Veterinary  Art,"  and  numerous  recipes.  One  large 
8vo.  volume,  830  pages,  half  morocco. 7.50 

Dadd's  Modern  Horse  Doctor. 

Containing  Practical  Observations  on  the  Causes,  Nature,  and  Treat- 
ment of  Diseases  and  Lameness  of  Horses— embracing  recent  and  im- 
proved Methods,  according  to  an  enlightened  system  of  Veterinary 
Practice,  for  Preservation  and  Restoration  of  Health.  Illustrated. 
By  Geo.  H.  Dadd,  M.  D.  V.  8.,  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

The  Family  Horse. 

Its  Stabling,  Care,  and  Feeding.  By  Geo.  A.  Martin.  A  Practical 
Manual,  full  of  the  most  useful  information.  Illustrated.  Cloth, 
12mo - 1.00 

Sander's  Horse  Breeding. 

Being  the  general  principles  of  Heredity  applied  to  the  Business  of 
Breeding  Horses  and  the  Management  of  Stallions,  Brood  Mares  and 
Foals.  The  book  embraces  all  that  the  breeder  should  know  in  regard 
to  the  selection  of  stock,  management  of  the  stallion,  broodmare,  and 
foal,  and  treatment  of  diseases  peculiar  to  breeding  animals.  By  J. 
H.Sanders.  12mo,  cloth 2.00 

Coburn's  Swine  Husbandry. 

New,  revised  and  enlarged  edition.  The  Breeding,  Rearing  and 
Management  of  Swine,  and  the  Prevention  and  Treatment  of  their 
Diseases.  It  is  the  fullest  and  freshest  compendium  relating  to  Swine 
Breeding  yet  offered.  By  F.  D.  Coburn.  Cloth,  12mo 1.75 

Dadd's  American  Cattle  Doctor. 

By  George  H.  Dadd,  M.  D.,  Veterinary  Practitioner.  To  help  every 
man  to  be  his  own  cattle-doctor ;  giving  the  necessary  information 
for  preserving  the  health  and  curing  the  diseases  of  oxen,  cows,  sheep, 
and  swine,  with  a  great  variety  of  original  recipes,  and  valuable  infor- 
mation on  farm  and  dairy  management.  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

Silos,  Ensilage,  and  Silage. 

A  practical  treatise  on  the  Ensilage  of  Fodder  Corn.  Containing  the 
most  recent  and  authentic  information  on  this  important  subject,  by 
Manly  Miles,  M.D.,  F.R.M.S.  Illustrated.  Cloth  12mo 50 

Broom  Corn  and  Brooms. 

A  Treatise  on  Raising  Broom-Corn  and  Making  Brooms  on  a  small  or 
Large  Scale.  Illustrated.  12mo.  Cloth  cover .50 

American  Bird  Fancier. 

Or  how  to  breed,  rear,  and  care  for  Song  and  Domestic  Birds.  This 
valuable  and  important  little  work  for  all  who  are  interested  in  the 
keeping  of  Song  Birds,  has  been  revised  and  enlaiged,  and  is  now  a 
complete  manual  upon  the  subject.  All  who  own  valuable  birds,  or 
wish  to  do  so,  will  find  the  new  Fancier  indispensable.  New,  revised 
and  enlarged  edition.  By  D.  J.  Browne,  and  Dr.  Fuller  Walker.  Illus- 
trated, paper  cover 50 


STANDARD    BOOKS.  9 

Armatage's  Every  Man  His  Own  Cattle  Doctor. 

The  Veterinary  Cyclopedia — Embracing  all  the  practical  information 
of  value  heretofore  published  on  the  Diseases  of  Cattle,  Sheep,  and 
Swine,  together  with  the  latest  and  best  information  regarding  all 
known  diseases  up  to  the  present  time.  Compiled  and  edited  by  that 
eminent  authority,  Prof.  George  Armatage,  M.  R.  C.  V.  S.  One 
large  octavo  volume,  894  pages,  with  upwards  of  350  practical  illus- 
trations, showing  forms  of  disease  and  treatment.  Half  morocco.  7.50 

Onions — Kow  to  Raise  them  Profitably. 

Being  the  Practical  Details,  from  Selection  of  Seed  and  Preparation 
of  Ground  to  Harvesting  and  Marketing  the  Crop,  given  very  plainly 
by  Seventeen  Practical  Onion  Growers  of  lonj:  experience  residing  in 
different  parts  of  the  country.  No  more  valuable  work  of  its  size 
was  ever  issued.  Paper  cover,  8vo 26 

Tobacco  Culture— Full  Practical  Details. 

This  useful  and  valuable  work  contains  full  details  of  every  process 
from  the  Selection  and  Preparation  of  the  Seed  and  Soil  to  the  Harvest- 
ing, Curing  and  Marketing  the  Crop,  with  illustrative  engravings  of 
the  operations.  The  work  was  prepared  by  Fourteen  Experienced 
Tobacco  Growers,  residing  in  different  parts  of  the  country.  It  also 
contains  notes  on  the  Tobacco  Worm,  with  illustrations,  8vo,..  .25 

Hop  Culture. 

Plain  directions  given  by  ten  experienced  cultivators.  Revised,  en- 
larged and  edited  by  A.  S.  Fuller.  Forty  engravings 30 

Flax  Culture. 

A  very  valuable  work,  containing  full  directions,  from  selection  of 
ground  and  seed  to  preparation  'and  marketing  of 
a  number  of  experienced  growers,  8vo 

Potato  Pests. 

No  Farmer  can  afford  to  be  without  this  little  book.  It  gives  the 
most  complete  account  of  the  Colorado  Beetle  anywhere  to  be  found, 
and  includes  all  the  latest  discoveries  as  to  the  habits  of  the  insect 
and  the  various  means  for  its  destruction.  It  is  well  illustrated,  and 
exhibits  in  a  map  the  spread  of  the  insect  since  it  left  its  native  home. 
By  Prof.  C.  V.  Riley.  Paper  cover. 50 

Home  Fishing  and  Home  "Waters. 

By  Seth  Green.  The  Utilization  of  Farm  Streams  ;  Management  of 
Fish  in  the  Artificial  Pond ;  Transportation  of  Eggs  and  Fry,  etc. 
Cloth,12mo 50 

Reed's  Housa  Plans  for  Everybody. 

By  S.  B.  Reed.  This  useful  volume  meets  the  wants  of  persons  of 
moderate  means,  and  gives  a  wide  range  of  design,  from  a  dwelling 
costing  $250  up  to  $8,000,  and  adapted  to  farm,  village  and  town  resi- 
dences. Nearly  all  of  these  plans  have  been  tested  by  practical  work- 
ings. One  feature  of  the  work  imparts  a  vulue  over  any  similar  pub- 
lication of  the  kind  that  we  have  seen.  It  gives  an  estimate  of  the 
quantity  of  every  article  used  in  the  construction,  and  the  cost  of  each 
article  at  the  time  the  building  was  erected  or  the  design  made.  Even 
if  prices  vary  from  time  to  time,  one  can,  from  these  data,  ascertain 
within  a  few  dollars  the  probable  cost  -of  constructing  any  one  of  the 
buildings  here  presented.  Profusely  illustrated.  Cloth,  black  and 
gold,  I2mo 1.60 


10  STANDARD    BOOKS. 

Gregory  on  Cabbages— How  to  Grow  Them. 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  Cabbage  Culture,  giving  full  details  on  every 
point,  inclnding  Keeping  and  Marketing  the  Crop.  By  James  J.  H. 
Gregory.  Paper  cover,  12mo 30 

Gregory  on  Carrots,  Mangold- Wurtzels,  etc. 

How  to  raise  them,  how  to  keep  them,  and  how  to  feed  them.  By 
J.  J.  H.  Gregory.  Paper  Cover,  ISuio .iiO 

Gregory  on  Onion  Raising. 

What  kinds  to  raise,  and  the  way  to  raise  them.  By  J.  J.  II.  Gregory. 
Paper  cover,  12mo .30 

Gregory  on  Squashes. 

This  Treatise,  -which  no  Farmer  or  Gardener  ought  to  be  without, 
tells  all  about  selecting  the  soil  for  squashes  ;  how  much  Manure  is 
necessary  ;  how  to  prepare  and  Plant ;  about  Hoeing  and  Cultivating  ; 
Setting  of  the  Fruit ;  Ripening,  Gathering,  Storing,  Care  during  Win- 
ter, etc.  By  J.  J.  H.  Gregory.  Paper  cover,  12mo 30 

Hog-Raising  and  Fork-Making. 

By  Rufus  Bacon  Martin.  The  hog  is  reared  for  the  money  that  is  in 
him,  and  he  represents  either  a  profit  or  loss  to  his  owner  according  to 
the  treatment  he  receives.  This  pamphlet  gives  the  personal  research 
and  experience  of  the  author,  contains  many  valuable  suggestions, 
and  answers  many  of  the  questions  that  arise  in  the  business  of  hog- 
raising.  Paper,  12mo_- .  .40 

Fulton's  Peach  Culture. 

This  is  the  only  practical  guide  to  Peac'u  Culture  on  the  Delaware 
Peninsula,  and  is  the  best  work  upon  the  subject  of  peach  growing  for 
those  who  vould  be  successful  in  that  culture  in  any  part  of  the 
country.  It  has  been  thoroughly  revised  and  a  large  portion  of  it  re- 
written, by'Hon.  J.  Alexander  Fulton,  the  author,  bringing  it  down  to 
date.  Cloth,  12mo 1.50 

Silk  Culture. 

A  Handbook  for  Silk-Growers.  By  Mrs.  C.  E.  Bamford.  CON- 
TENTS.— Chapter  I.  The  Mulberry. — II.  Gathering  the  Leaves. — 
III.  The  Cocoonery. — IV.  Eggs  of  the  Silk  Worm  Moth. — V.  Feed- 
ing tho  Silk  Worms.— VI.  Moulting.— VII.  Spinning.— VIII.  The 
Cocoons.— IX.  The  Moths  of  the  Silk  Worm.— X.  Varieties  of  Silk 
Worms.— XI.  Diseases  of  the  Silk  Worm.— XII.  Reeling.— XIII. 
Chemistry  of  Silk. — XIV.  Miscellaneous.  Paper,  12mo.  Price,  post- 
paid   .30 

Treats'  Injurious  Insects  of  the  Farm  and  Garden.  By 
Mrs.  Mary  Treat. 

An  original  investigator  who  has  added  much  to  our  knowledge  of  both 
Plants  and  insects,  and  those  who  are  familiar  with  Darwin's  works 
are  aware  that  he  gives  her  credit  for  important  observation  and  dis- 
coveries. New  and  Enlarged  Edition.  With  an  Illustrated  Chapter 
on  Beneficial  Insects.  Fully  illustrated.  Cloth,  12mo ..2.00 

Fuller's  Small  Fruit  Culturist. 

By  Andrew  S.  Fuller.  Rewritten,  enlarged,  and  brought  fully  up  to 
the  present  time.  The  book  covers  the  whole  ground  of  propagating 
small  fruits,  their  culture,  varieties,  packing  for  market,  etc.  It  is 
very  finely  and  thoroughly  illustrated,  and  rmikes  an  admirable  com- 
panion to  "  The  Grape  Culturist,"  by  the  same  well  known  author. 

1.50 


THE  LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

Santa  Barbara 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW. 


m. 
' 


^    , 


tf  r# 


it 


..    . 

:  ^  ,A 


V-          ,      ^ 

m     m. 

,          s    «u, 


